Transcript Female haircuts - Graduated bob

Female haircuts – Square layer
© JordanBurr 2008
Introduction
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The graduated bob is one of the most sophisticated styles to emerge from the
1990s. The line of the cut and the balance of the shape, suits most hair types
and face shapes. Over the years the shape has changed from the solid cut of
the 1960s into a technical haircut using a combination of vertical lines and
horizontal graduation.
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Graduation is a term used to define a system of cutting hair which allows the
hair shape to move upwards, backwards and/or forwards, depending on the
style required.
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Today, graduated cuts are a lot more textured and are achieved using thinning
scissors and razors. Bolder colours are used to give a choppier and more
modern look. And layers are often used to give softness to the shape.
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There are two methods of achieving graduation:
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elevation - lifting the hair; and
combing - taking the hair to a shorter point on the haircut.
© JordanBurr 2008
Step 1 of 11 - Before you cut
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The ideal face shape for this cut is square or oval.
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The texture of the hair should be straight or
slightly wavy, and hairlines should be flat and
even.
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Our model has a oval face shape and even
hairlines.
Tip: The graduated bob cut is divided into three
areas: back, side and front.
© JordanBurr 2008
Step 2 of 11 - Back Area
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Take a centre parting section from the top
of the crown to the nape. Then take a curve
section across the occipital bone at the
back of the head. It is important that you
work very cleanly.
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To achieve maximum tension in the hair as
you cut, keep the hair wet and use the fine
teeth of your comb.
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To get the best results with this haircut you
need to be very precise. Make your sections
and cutting lines very clean.
Tip: Remember to position yourself in line with
the sections. This will help you achieve even
weight distribution throughout the cut.
© JordanBurr 2008
Step 3 of 11 - Nape Area
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Head shape in a slightly forward position. Begin at
the nape area, holding the hair out at a 45-degree
angle and cut, remembering to keep the hair wet at
all times with maximum tension. This section will
determine the overall length for your haircut.
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Pull the hair out from the head, with the back of your
hand at the nape and the top of your fingers angled
away from the head.
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This first section is important because the hairlines at
the nape determine the length of the haircut.
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The stylist here is using the inside of their fingers.
This is the only way you can achieve the correct angle
for this cut. Placing the back of your hand against the
client's neck this will help to have more control.
Tip: The way you position
your fingers determines the
length you create. To create
length at the top of the
section, your fingers should
be angled away from the
top of the head.
© JordanBurr 2008
Step 4 of 11 - Occipital Area
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Continue to work up to the occipital area
holding the hair out to a 45-degree angle. It is
important that the head is in a forward position.
Working out from the centre, hold the hair
parallel from the head at a 45-degree angle,
work from one side to the other. Remember to
keep the tension even and to keep the hair wet
at all times.
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Repeat the same procedure on the other side.
To make sure your cut is balanced, follow the
guideline from the middle.
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The angle of your fingers, tension of the hair
and position of your body are all very important
at this stage. You are now creating the guide
you will use in the next area of the cut.
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When you have checked the balance of the back
section, cross check by working your way
through the hair in the opposite direction to the
cut. If you cut the hair using vertical sections,
cross check horizontally and vice versa.
© JordanBurr 2008
Step 5 of 11 - Diagonal sections
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We are now starting to build
up the weight line. Take
diagonal sections from the
top of the occipital to the top
of the ear. Working on one
side at a time, hold the hair
between the fingers. The
hair is combed to its natural
fall and elevated to a
stationary 45-degrees and
the cutting line is continued.
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Use the guide to work
forward through the section,
remembering to create
length at the front.
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To achieve graduation, lift the guide away from the head. Keep the angle to below 90degrees and make sure you use the same angle on both sides. You should take great care
to be precise when making this haircut.
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Repeat on the opposite side.
© JordanBurr 2008
Step 6 of 11 - Working up the head
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Diagonal forward sections
are taken working up the
head and the graduation
method is repeated. As we
progress to the top of the
head, the head shape is
bought up to a natural
position. The hair is still
elevated to a stationery 45degree angle. At this stage
we should check balance
and graduation.
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You should start to see the
length at the front of the
hair.
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Our stylist is using elevation on each section to create a softer edge. See how the hair is
pulled down to follow its natural fall. Directing the hair forward or backward would alter
the graduation.
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Using this technique, work up to the natural parting. Then repeat the same procedure on
the other side.
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At this point in the cut, you can use minimum tension to allow for any irregularities in the
hair growth patterns.
© JordanBurr 2008
Step 7 of 11 - Side sections
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Horseshoe sections are taken
from below the crown to the front
hairline pivoting diagonal
towards the front. As we blend
into the sides, direct the hair
back and away from the face,
this will allow us to build up
length. The hair is elevated to a
stationery 45-degree angle and
held between the fingers, with
one finger width.
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The hair from the top box area
should be allowed to fall into its
natural or designed parting.
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Here, our stylist is connecting the
sections from the back of the
crown.
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At this stage, take your guide from the occipital area.
Use the guide to work forward through the section,
remembering to create length at the front.
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To achieve graduation, lift the guide away from the
head. Keep the angle to below 90 degrees and make
sure you use the same angle on both sides. You should
take great care to be precise when making this haircut.
© JordanBurr 2008
Step 8 of 11 - Side sections
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You should start to see the length at the
front of the hair.
•
Our stylist is using elevation on each
section to create a softer edge. See how
the hair is pulled down to follow its
natural fall. Directing the hair forward or
backward would alter the graduation.
•
Using this technique, work up to the
natural parting. Then repeat the same
procedure on the other side.
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At this point in the cut, you can use
minimum tension to allow for any
irregularities in the hair growth patterns.
Tip: Remember: minimum tension will create
minimum graduation. Angling your fingers
towards the front will create length.
© JordanBurr 2008
Step 9 of 11 - Fringe Section
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You do not always have to cut a fringe.
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To allow for any movement or irregular hairlines,
cut the fringe area freehand.
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Take a section from the outside corner of the eye
to the front centre of the head.
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Cut from the outside towards the centre, keeping
the hair wet at all times.
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Repeat the same steps on the other side,
checking the balance as you go.
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The hair will fall
freely from the
head to achieve its
natural shape.
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Continue to work
up to your section,
remembering to
cut freehand.
© JordanBurr 2008
Step 10 of 11 - Finished result
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You can see from the finished, wet result
that the shape of this cut is very soft.
© JordanBurr 2008
Step 11 of 11 - Finished result
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You can see from the finished, wet result
that the shape of this cut is very soft.
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It was created using a medium round
brush. See blow-drying techniques for
details.
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Our stylist has cut this hairstyle with a
fringe. Whether you use a fringe should
depend on your and your client's personal
choice. For more on this, see the page on
fringes.
© JordanBurr 2008