Transcript Fabric Construction - Nisky Schools Home Page

Fabric Construction
Fashion Design, Textiles & Merchandising
Mrs. Moscinski
Fabric Construction
Fibers are created
into yarns
Yarns are then
woven or knit into
fabrics
Fabrics are then
Used to create
garments, etc.
Blended Yarns, Threads & Fabrics
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Blends were created to utilize the positive
characteristics of each fiber
Different fibers that have been combined into
one fabric, usually one natural and one synthetic
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EXAMPLE: polyester/cotton blend- the original cotton
characteristics are improved and the fabric becomes
more wrinkle resistant, stronger, and mildew resistant
Wovens
A woven fabric consists of warp and weft
yarns
 Weaving occurs when two or more yarns
are woven together at right angles to make
a fabric
 Strong and easy to sew on
 Suggested for beginners to use
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Grain (Line)
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Selvage - parallel to lengthwise grain; the tightly
woven edges of the fabric
Lengthwise - parallel to the selvage; stronger
threads (warp threads)
Crosswise - at right angle to the lengthwise
threads; perpendicular to the selvage (weft
threads)
Bias - diagonal angle; runs at a 45-degree angle
to the selvage edge; provides stretch
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Woven fabric is more elastic as
well as more fluid in the bias
direction, compared to the ongrain direction.
This property facilitates
garments and garment details
that require extra elasticity or
drapability or flexibility, such as
bias-cut skirts and dresses,
neckties, piping trims and
decorations, bound seams,
etc.
Plain Weave
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Characteristics of
Plain Weave
 It
is snag resistant.
 It wrinkles.
 It has lower tear
strength.
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Examples
 Chiffon
 Taffeta
 Organza
Twill Weave
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Characteristics of Twill
Weave
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It is durable and heavier.
It is wrinkle resistant.
It is resistant to showing
soil and soiling.
It is more pliable drape and
hand than plain weave
Examples of Twill Weave
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Gabardine
Herringbone
Denim
Satin Weave
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Characteristics of
Satin Weave
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It is flat and lustrous with a
smooth surface.
The surface slides easily
for linings.
Snags easily
Examples of Satin Weave
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Satin
Knit Fabrics
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Knitting- yarns are fashioned by needles into a
series of interlocking loops to make a fabric
Knits provide stretch
Knits don't need a seam or edge finish; will not
fray
Single knit fabric curls to the right side when
stretched
Interlock knit is thicker
Knit Fabrics
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Firm, stable knits. These stretch very little and are handled
similarly to woven fabrics. These include double knits and Raschel
knits, a novelty knit recognized by lacy, stable construction.
Lightweight single knits. They have lengthwise ribs on the right
side, horizontal rows on the reverse side and moderate stretch.
Examples are jerseys and tricot knits.
Interlock knits. These are lightweight, drapable and have a fair
amount of crosswise stretch. They do not curl at the edges, but can
run on the crosswise edge. Interlock knits are heavier, thicker, and
easier to sew than jersey knits.
Textured knits. These may be single or double knits. Examples
include knitted terry and velour, sweater knits, and sweatshirt fleece.
These knits have moderate to good stretch except sweatshirt fleece
which has little or no stretch.
Two-way stretch knits. They stretch in both length and width and
have a high percentage of resilient spandex fibers. These knits are
usually selected for active sportswear.
Ribbing. This is a stretchy knit used for stretch trims at wrists,
ankles, neck and waist. It is available in tubular ribbing and in rib
trim.
Non-Woven/ Felting
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Made when fibers are pressed together
using heat and moisture
 Examples
interfacing
include: felt and nonwoven
Nap
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Short fibers that create texture on fabric
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Use a nap layout
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Treat the same way as a one-way directional
fabric
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Ex: Velvet