Transcript Fabric construction - Mrs Hutchings Classroom

Fabric
construction
Types of Fabrics
Fabric Construction
The Three Basic Types of Fabric:
•WOVEN
•KNIT
•NON-WOVEN
Woven Fabrics
• Made on a loom
• Harnesses
•Hold the Warp or lengthwise
yarns during weaving
•Go up and down and determine
the weaving pattern
•Shuttle
•Holds the weft or crosswise yarn
during weaving.
•Shuttles are thrown back and
forth in between rows of
lengthwise yarns
Hand Weaving
Power Loom
Woven Fabrics
Made on a loom
• Lengthwise yarns are
vertical (WARP)
•Lengthwise yarns are stronger
•Go up and down on your body
• Crosswise yarns are
horizontal (WEFT)
•Go across your body
Woven Fabrics
Three Basic Types of
Woven Fabrics Are:
• Plain
• Twill
• Satin
Plain Weave
It is called a “PLAIN
WEAVE” because it is the
most simple type of weave.
•The first yarn will go over one and
then under one.
•The second yarn will do exactly the
opposite.
•The third one, will repeat the first and
the forth one will repeat the second.
Plain Weave
Twill Weave
The “TWILL WEAVE” is
designed for STRENGTH &
DURABILITY.
•The first yarn will go over Two and then
under two of the lengthwise yarns.
•The second yarn will rotate one over and
then repeat the same pattern.
•The third one rotate one over again, and
then repeat the same pattern
When it is finished, you will see
the illusion of a diagonal
appearance.
Twill Weave
Satin Weave
The “SATIN WEAVE” is designed to
create a shine on the surface of the
fabric.
To get a shine there must be two things happening.
1. The type of fiber must be made of a
fiber that can shine.
2. The way it is woven will enhance
the shine capability
This style of weave is called a
“Random Weave” because there is no
order to the weave of the crosswise
yarns.
Satin Weave
Knits
Knits are made of interlocking loops
Characteristics of knit fabrics
•
Stretches
•
Resilient (which means returns to original shape
•
Wrinkle Resistant
Knits
The
“Knit
Side”
shows
the face
of the
fabric
“Purl
Side”
shows
the back
of it.
Knits: -Single Knit /JerseyHas a front (KNIT SIDE) and back
(PURL SIDE).
The edge will curl when you
stretch it.
It is the only one that the
front and back look
different.
Knits:
-Double-
Two layers of jersey made back to back.
Looks the same on both sides.
The edge does not curl.
Knits
–Ribbed-
- Looks the same on both sides.
- You will see ridges in between the knit rows.
- It has an ultra-stretch
Non Woven
Fabric is made by gluing fibers
together.
Characteristics:
•It does not have “GRAIN”
• It has No resilience.
•If you stretch it does not return to its
original shape
• Requires special sewing techniques
•Typically Used for Crafts & Décor
items
NonWoven
EXAMPLES
Felt
– Felt is a fabric that is
used mostly for crafts.
- It has very little stability
or resilience.
- It usually comes in
brilliant colors.
Felt
&
Felt Crafts
NonWoven
Interfacing
-Interfacing is used to stabilize
fabrics and change the body.
In some places on a garment may need more
stiffness, strength or heavier drape.
On this Jacket Interfacing is used in the
collar, the lapel and the cuffs to help them be
more functional.
NonWoven
Dryer Sheet
- A dryer sheet is made
from the same material as
the interfacing. The
difference is that the dryer
sheet has fabric softener
applied to it. The fabric
Softener will melt in the
dryer heat and go into the
laundry.
NonWoven
Batting
-Batting is used on the
inside of a quilt or wall
hanging. This is the part
of the blankets that makes
the blanket heavier and
warmer than just two
pieces of fabric together.
NonWoven
Diapers
-Diapers are a great use of
non wovens. And they help
keep children dry. The non
woven fibers are used on
disposable diapers to hold
the diaper together from the
outside
Fabric Characteristics
Fabric Characteristics
Selvage Edge:
The uncut edges that do not fray
Follows the lengthwise direction of the fabric
Cut/Raw Edge:
This is the edge that is cut and will fray
Lengthwise Grain:
Also called the “Warp Yarns/Threads”
These are the longest yarns in the fabric
Crosswise Grain:
Also called the “Weft Yarns/Threads”
These yarns go from Selvage to Selvage
Fabric Characteristics
Fabric Characteristics
Straight of Grain:
Refers to the lengthwise direction of the
fabric…
True-Bias:
Refers to the diagonal Direction on the
fabric…
Fabric Characteristics
Important Information you need
to know about Fabric
How are “woven” fabrics made?
Woven
Fabrics are
made on a
“Loom”
How are “knit” fabrics made?
A yarn that
is looped
together to
create a
solid piece
of fabric
with a
stretch
How are “non-woven” fabrics made?
Random fibers that are
glued together.
There is not a straight of
grain on “non-woven”
fabrics.
“Non-woven” fabrics
are not durable because
of the way they are
made.
What is the “selvage edge” ?
“Selvage Edge”
is the un-cut edge
that doesn’t fray…
… and follows the
“lengthwise grain”
of the fabric.
What does it mean to work with the “true-bias” ?
Cutting the fabric at a 45* degree, diagonal angle
What are some unique characteristics when working with fabric
on the “bias” ?
Fabric that does not normally stretch,
will stretch on the “bias”
What are some unique characteristics when working with fabric
on the “bias” ?
Fabric cut on the
“bias” can change
the direction of a
print
Fabric cut on the
“bias” changes the
way the fabric
drapes the body
What does it mean for fabric to be “On Grain” ?
Why is important to cut out your fabric “on grain” ?
Fabric cut “off grain” will make
the seams hang crooked
How is “lengthwise grain” related to “selvage
edge” ?
The
“lengthwise
grain”
follows the
same direction
as the
“selvage edge”
Fibers & FABRICS QUIZ
Go to the following website. Take the fibers &
fabrics quiz.
Click on the link below. When it directs you to the
website, hit the refresh button.
Or you can open Internet Explorer and type this web
address into your browser.
You need to make sure to enter your first and last
name and click the button that says
“login and start”
www.ucutips.org/~hhutchings
Your results will be sent to Mrs. Hutchings email address.
When you are finished with the quiz, ask Mrs. Hutchings for
your fabric swatches so you can attach them to your
packet.
Last, You need to get the Quiz Fabrics From Mrs. Hutchings!