Transcript antiaging creams.ppt

Giti Sadeghian Dermatologist
Skin diseases and leishmaniasis research centre
Isfahan university of medical sciences
The cosmetic and
beauty industry is
one of the world’s
oldest professions,
dating as far back
as 1000 B.C.
The use of
ointments and oils
was recorded on
papyrus by the
Ancient Egyptians.
Cold cream
is said to
have been
invented by
the ancient
Greek
physician
Galen.
Galen during the 2nd century. It was called
“cold cream” because as the water
evaporated from the skin, it gave a feeling of
coolness. Yield 8 ounces
1/8 tsp borax powder
¼ cup distilled water
½ cup Olive Oil
2 Tbsp grated beeswax
1 tsp rosewater
Aging Skin
How skin ages depends on a
number of factors.
The Intrencic factor that
determines the way a person
ages is underlying genetics.
Other internal influences
include diet, lifestyle, drug,
and alcohol history. Smoking,
a cause of premature aging of
the skin, has been directly
linked with elevations in
matrixmetalloproteinase- 1
(MMP-1), which is a zincdependent protease
responsible for degradation of
dermal collagen.
Environmental
exposures, including
weather changes and
pollutants, have a direct
impact on skin aging,
with the most profound
de gradative changes
caused by chronic UV
exposure with resultant
photoaging.
TREATMENT OF AGING
 Primary prevention refers to the reduction of risk factors
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before a disease or condition has occurred
(sun protection).
Secondary prevention is early detection of disease,
potentially while still asymptomatic, to allow positive
interference to prevent, postpone, or attenuate the
symptomatic clinical condition( Using anti aging creams
like retinoic Acid Antioxidants and etc)
Tertiary prevention is the treatment of an existing
symptomatic disease process to ameliorate its effects or
delay its progress
(Chemical Peel Microdermabrasion Laser and etc)
.
Secondary prevention
Retinoids:
 Increase proliferation and differentiation of
kerstinocytes.
 Exfoliate of abnormal hyperpigmentation.
 Inhibit tyrosinase activity.
 Increase normal collagen formation.
 Decrease abnormal fibrillar formation.
 Elastin formation also increase.
Retinoids fading dark mark, evening skin tone ,reducing
skin wrinkling and eliminating roughness .
Retinoids:
 Several weeks of
treatment with
tretinoin are required
before clinical
improvement is
appreciated.
 The greatest obstacle
to tretinoin use is
irritation in the form of
erythema, peeling, and
stinging which decline
with continued use.
Tretinoin (alltransretinoic acid)
, a nonselective
agent that
activates all
RARs directly
and RXRs
indirectly, has
been shown to
improve the
clinical signs of
photo aging in
controlled
clinical trials.
Tazarotene
is a secondgeneration retinoid
that selectively
binds RAR-gamma
and RAR-B .
Like tretinoin,
tazarorene is
effective in the
treatment of
photodamage.
Reduced atypia and
restoration of
keratinocyte
polarity have also
been noted after
tazarotene therapy.
 In a 24-week randomized, controlled, double-blind
study, treatment with 0.1% tazarotene resulted in
significant improvement in numerous clinical
assessments of photodamage.
 Additional clinical improvement occurred during an
open-label extension and had not reached a plateau by
week 52.
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids Creams(AHAs):
 About 25 years before glycolic acid made its
dramatic entry into the cosmetic skin care
market in the early 1990, lactic acid had
been described as part of the skin’s NMF
and was used with great success in skin
moisturizers.
 There are two main benefits of AHA’s:
Moisturization
 Wrinkle reduction.
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids Creams(AHAs):
They have the ability to
1-Synthesis new
collagen and hyaloronic
acid,
2- Reduce the cohesion
of dead corneocytes to
the skin,
giving the skin a
smoother, less wrinkled,
and less mottled
appearance.
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids Creams(AHAs)
 Although these naturally
occurring organic acids are
often referred to as fruit acids
because they are found in
many common fruits such as
citrus fruits (citric acid),
apples (malic acid), and
grapes (tartaric acid), the two
most widely used AHAs are
not components of fruit.
 Glycolic acid is a sugar cane
derivative, and lactic acid is
derived from milk
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids Creams(AHAs)
 AHA+Retinoids products
 It is ideal to couple these products with topical
retinoids and lightening agents to enhance these
effects.
 The effectiveness of AHAs in reversing the signs of
aging were also coupled with problems of stinging,
burning, and irritation, which were usually associated
with a pH less than 3.5.
Polyhydroxy Acids
Cream(PHAs)
The polyhydroxy
acids (PHAs) are
the next
generation of
AHAs.
Polyhydroxy Acids Cream(PHAs)
 PHAs include
 gluconolactone
 lactobionic acid,
 which are structurally larger molecules than AHAs
allowing for slower skin penetration and thus
fewer side effects.
 without the potentially irritating side effects of
burning and stinging .
The chemical structure of PHA:
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs)
 They provide the anti-aging, skin-smoothing
 In addition to the exfoliative benefits of AHAs,
PHAs provide additional benefits of
 Enhanced stratum corneum barrier function .
 Moisturization with humectant properties.
 This makes for enhanced skin compatibility and
use for most skin types, including sensitive skins.
 PHAs are also protective since most of them
contain antioxidant properties.
Improvement of skin characteristics after 3
months:
Beta-Hydroxy
Acids (BHAs)
The most frequently
used beta-hydroxy
acid is salicylic acid.
It is found in most
over-the-counter
(OTC) products and
has been used
primarily in the
treatment of acne.
Part of its
effectiveness as an
acne treatment may
stem from its lipid
solubility and ability
to penetrate sebum.
Beta-Hydroxy Acids (BHAs);
 More recently, salicylic acid has been used in the
treatment of photoaging with in
 Office peels of 20—30%.
 These can be quite helpful in patients who are
unable to tolerate alpha-hydroxy acids since
irritancy levels tend to be less with salicylic acid.
AHAs+BHAs
In addition, it can
be quite useful to
combine or
alternate both
AHAs and BHAs
since their
mechanisms of
action differ, and
using both may be
quite beneficial.
Vitamin B
Cream
Panthenol
(provitamin B5)
is the stable analog
of pantothenic
acid that has been
used in skin care,
nail products, and
most especially in
hair products
through its
enhanced
moisturization
benefits.
Vitamin B Cream:
 Pantothenic acid
wound healing
 Through cell proliferation and protein synthesis
 Pantothenic acid
anti-aging
 Through enhanced cell proliferation and healing abilities .
 Pantothenic acid
moisturizing and soothing
Quickly penetrates the skin.
Vitamin B
Nicotinamide
(niacinamide)
is another B
vitamin that
has entered the
skin care
pruduct.
Nicotinamide
 Most studies of this vitamin have focused on the
Anti-inflammatory
 Acne treatment.
 The role of nicotinamide as a potential anti-aging
ingredient has yet to be explored;
 however, one possible role is in the
 biosynthesis of ceramides and other stratum
corneum lipids
anti-aging
Reduction of skin erythema after
application of topical 5% Niacinamide
Antioxidants
 The use of antioxidants in any anti-aging skin care
regimen is essential in order to combat and prevent
further damage.
 Vitamins have been used to combat free radical
damage for many years. Unfortunately, they get used
up rather quickly since it takes one vitamin to
neutralize one free radical.
 Enzymes are more efficient free radical scavengers;
however, they depend on the presence of a healthy
cellular environment and certain trace minerals to
synthesize them.
 Spin Traps catch or trap the aberrant electron.
Spin Trap-phenyl butyl nitrone (PBN)
 The very newest antioxidants, which are known as
“spin traps:’ have the ability to catch or trap the
aberrant electron as it starts to spin out of control and
return it to its orbit before it can do any damage.
 Although the use of spin traps in dermatology is in its
infancy, these compounds show a great deal of
promise.
Spin Trap-phenyl butyl nitrone (PBN)
 The most well-known spin trap is phenyl butyl nitrone
(PBN)
 PBN has
 Anti-inflammatory,
 Neuroprotective and
 Age-reversing effects .
Vitamin E Cream
 Topically applied vitamin E plays
an enormous role in
 protecting the skin from free
radical damage.
 Anti aging
 Moisturization properties
 Antioxidant role of vitamin E
against the oxidative stress
caused by ozone has also been
demonstrated .
 significantly higher levels of vitamin E in the skin
following the application of a cream containing 5%
tocopherol acetate over 10 days.
 Vitamin E is the most abundant antioxidant found
in skin, and it is produced in human sebaceous
glands in its alpha-
and gamma-
tocopherol forms.
Vitamin E
 These tocopherols are part of a
 Natural protective mantle that has been described
and is, in fact,
 The first line of protection against environmental
 The important role of sebaceous glands and sebum in
the production and delivery of vitamin E to the skin
may explain the often-made observation that oily skin
tends to age more slowly than drier skin.
 Perhaps those with oily skin have a higher vitamin E
level and therefore more natural protection than those
with dry skin.
Vitamin E
 The depletion of vitamin E levels in skin following
UV radiation has been demonstrated.
alpha-tocopherol + ascorbyl palmitate acts as a
powerful antioxidant system preventing oxidation.
alpha-tocopherol + ascorbyl palmitate can prevent
the formation of carcinogenic nitrosamines.
Vitamin E + sunscreen enhances the photoprotective
effects of sunscreans.
Vitamin C Cream:
 Vitamin C is a major water
soluble antioxidant that
plays a vital role in
 photoprotection
 collagen synthesis.
 The body reservoir of
vitamin C
with age,
 smoking decrease reserves
even more.
 Vitamin C is not produced
in the body and must be
consumed entirely through
diet and oral
supplementation.
Vitamin C
Unfortunately, the longterm stability of topical
vitamin C preparations
remains a concern.
The most stable vitamin
C preparations remain
anhydrous or completely
water free.
Any form of vitamin C
that is applied to the skin
Lascorbic acid
must convert to the
form in order to be
recognized by the body
and deliver a benefit.
Vitamin C:
 Vitamin C is an essential cofactor for the
hydroxylation of proline and lysine, a necessary
step in collagen synthesis.
 Topical vitamin C levels of tissue inhibitors of
collagen-degrading matrix
metalloproteinase1(MMP-1)
 Fibroblasts in cell culture will selectively secrete
collagen when vitamin C is added in a dosedependent fashion.
Vitamin C:
Vitamin C
synthesis
collagen
wrinkle-reducing and
skin-firming
The efficacy of topical L-Ascorbic acid after
1 year use:
Vitamin C:
 The ability of topical vitamin C to reduce
hyperpigmentation has been demonstrated and has
found its way into various skin-lightening products.
 Vitamin C is able to lighten hyperpigmented skin
through the inhibition of the enzyme tyrosinase.
Coenzyme Q10
cream(CoQ10)
CoQ10 is a powerful free
radical inhibitor that
inhibits lipid peroxides
from forming in plasma
membranes.
CoQ10 plays a very
important role in cellular
energy production and
works in the
mitochondrial adenosine
triphosphate (ATP)
energy-producing
pathway of the cell .
Q10
ATP
Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10)
 As we age, CoQ10 levels diminish, as does cellular
energy production, which may improve by adding
CoQ10 cream.

cream(CoQ10)
 Free radical inhibitor
 Enhances ATP
 Antioxidant activity
 Inhibition of collagenase expression in UV-irradiated
skin
 Reduction in wrinkles
Idebenone
 Idebenone is a powerful
synthetic analog of CoQ10,
which shows a great deal of
promise.
 In a study comparing the
photoprotective properties of
topical idebenone to those of
vitamin E, kinetin, CoQ10,
vitamin C, and lipoic acid,
idebenone consistently
demonstrated the highest level
of antioxidation and
photoprotection .

 At the present time ,
idebenone is sold under
the brand name of
Prevage (Allergan,
Irvine, CA, USA).
Lipoic acid
 Lipoic acid is a very powerful
antioxidant that has the unusual
advantage of
 being both water and fat soluble

Cofactor
in
mitochondrial dehydrogenases.
 Cofactor
in several
multi enzyme complexes
involved in energy formation
 Lipoic acid
Antiinflammatory activity.
Lipoic acid
The human body is capable of producing Alpha–Lipoic
acid itself in small amounts. Furthermore the body
desorbs this antioxidant from ingested food, like
potatoes and meat.
In humans,
dihydrolipoic acid (DHLA) is able to penetrate the skin,
after which it converts into its active by product
Lipoic acid:
 Topical application of 3% lipoic acid
UVBinduced erythema, which demonstrates its
photoprotective and anti-inflammatory properties.
 Also, a 12 -week study demonstrated that using a
topical cream containing 5% alpha-lipoic acid was
quite effective in treating signs of photo- aging.
Polyphenols:
 Green tea polyphenols
have been included in
a growing number of
skin care products for
their antioxidant and
anti-inflammatory
effects .
 These polyphenolic
compounds are called
epicatechins, and the
most powerful member
of this group is called
epigallocatechin-3gallate (EGCG).
Green tea polyphenols
 epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG)
 Inhibit erythema,
 Inhibit inflammation
 Inhibit myeloperoxidase activity,
following UVB irradiation .
Polyphenols:
 pretreated skin with green
tea polyphenols shows a
histologic decrease in
sunburn cells following
UV-radiated skin
 .pretreated skin had less
DNA damage as evidenced
by fewer UV-induced DNA
pyrimidine dimers formed
than in untreated skin.
Polyphenols:
 Another polyphenol
that differs from those
found in green tea are
the procyanidins.
 Procyanidins are
powerful free radical
scavengers whose
richest source is from
the seeds of red grapes.

Grapeseed
extract
Higher antioxidant
activity than both
vitamins C and E.
Greater inhibition
of lipid
peroxidation than
green tea
polyphenols
The role of polyphenols,
whether from green tea
or grapeseed extract, has
a great deal of potential
as part of a growing
natural anti-aging skin
care market.
With all natural
ingredients, however, it is
important to standardize
extraction methods as
well as assays for their
activity.
Selenium
Selenium is an essential trace element
with
Antioxidant,
Anti-inflammatory,
Anticarcinogenic activities.
Selenium’s protective ability lies in its
essential role as a
cofactor in the formation of the
important protective enzyme
glutathione peroxidase .
Selenium:
 Selenium’s anti-inflammatory properties have been
demonstrated by its ability
 to inhibit skin damaging UV-induced inflammatory
cytokines .
 Selenium as a topical ingredient does not penetrate
skin well and must be used in its selenomethionine
form in order to be bioavailable
Carotenoids:
 Carotenoids are dietary
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
antioxidants,
which include
lycopene,
lutein, and
beta-carotene.
The sources of these
natural free-radicalscavenging compounds
include
leafy green vegetables,
carrots,
and tomatoes.
 Carotenoids have freeradical-scavenging
properties and inhibit
lipid peroxidation as
well .
 Most studies associated
with carotenoids have
used them in their oral
form. However, there
have been reports of the
photoprotective effects
by topically applied
carotenoids
Carotenoids:
 Although carotenoids work
best synergistically, by
themselves, lycopene was
the strongest
photoprotectant followed
by lutein then betacarotene.
 Newer technologies are
being developed that are
resulting in colorless
carotenoids.
Beta-glucans
 Beta-glucans were first
described in 1941 and
belong to a class of
compounds known as
biological response
modifiers.
 The most biologically
active forms of this
substance are isolated from
cell membranes of baker’s
yeast (Saccharomyces
cerevisiae)
Beta-glucans
 The ability of Beta-glucans to stimulate and activate
macrophages has resulted in multiple applications,
including wound healing, infectious disease, oncology, and
dermatology.
In the epidermis, where macrophage-derived cells include
both keratinocytes and Langerhans cells, beta-glucans act
to stimulate the protective qualities of these cells as our
first line of defense.
Beta-glucans
 Studies have also
demonstrated that betaglucans have
photoprotective properties
similar to those of vitamin
E by their ability to
 sustain levels of reduced
glutathione in the skin
following UV radiation .
Betaglucans are
extremely
soothing and
calming to the
skin through their
reinforcement of
skin macrophages,
which have
implications in
minimizing
irritancy potential
of products
Skin Respiratory Factors
 Skin respiratory factors (SRF), also called tissue
respiratory factors (TRF),
 have been used in cosmetics for their ability to
renew and revitalize the skin.
 These ingredients revitalize cellular metabolism
through the stimulation of cell respiration.
 The ability of an ingredient to stimulate cell
respiration and cellular metabolism can be
determined by Warburg assay, which measures
oxygen uptake in living cell homogenates.
Skin Respiratory Factors
 Although a number of botanical ingredients with the
ability to enhance cell respiration have been isolated,
 The most abundant source is baker’s yeast .
However, unlike beta-glucans, which are isolated from the
cell walls of baker’s yeast, compounds that stimulate
cellular respiration are extracted from the cytoplasm.
 These cytoplasmic elements generally contain
 mitochondrial components of the cell, which can

enhance cellular energy.
Copper:
 Products containing copper have gained increasing
popularity in the anti-aging skin care market over the past
several years.
 In humans, copper binds to the high-affinity tripeptide
glycyl-l-histidyl-l-lysine (GHK) to form a copperGHK
complex .
 This copper-GHK complex plays a vital role in human
tissue repair, and its ability to accelerate
wound healing has been demonstrated both in
vitro and in vivo.

Copper:
 copper is a vital cofactor in the activation of the powerful
antioxidant enzyme superoxide dismutase
 Copper-GHK complex to stimulate
 production of both collagen
glycosaminoglycans
 in a dose-dependent fashion has been demonstrated in
cell-culture studies of human fibroblasts.
 Copper-GHK complex may also play a role in
 angiogenesis during wound healing.
 Copper-GHK as an
 anti-aging
 (stimulate extracellular matrix proteins).
Copper:
 creams containing the
copper-GHK complex.
 Significant clinical
improvements in
photoaged skin
 These improvements
include a decrease in skin
wrinkling, laxity, and
roughness.
 These changes, as well as
the lack of irritancy,
give copper an important
role in the anti-aging skin
care market.
Peptides
 Molecular biology has enabled us to learn the exact amino acid
sequences of molecules such as the matrix proteins type IV collagen
and laminin. Knowing the amino acid sequence of these molecules
enables the production of peptides that are five to ten amino acids in
size.
 Currently, two of the most well known peptides being used in skin care
are palmitoyl pentapeptides, also known as Matrixyl; and acetyl
hexapeptide-3, also known as Argirelene.
Peptides
 Matrixyl (pal-
KTTKS )is a
pentapeptide that
has been used as a
procollagen analog
to stimulate
collagen production
in skin.
In the 4-month
study, Matrixyl was
able to decrease skin
roughness by 27%,
wrinkle volume by
36%, and wrinkle
depth by 27%.
Skin biopsies
demonstrated
increased density
and thickness of
elastin fibers in the
dermis with
improvement in
type IV collagen
Peptides
Argirelene has
been marketed
as having a
relaxing effect
on muscles and
has therefore
been touted as
an alternative
to Botox.
 Argirelene’s mechanism of action has
been studied in vitro and appears to
inhibit vesicle docking by inhibiting
formation of the soluble Nethylmaleimide-sensitive fusion
attachment protein receptor complex
(SNAP) .
 By inhibiting SNAP formation, Argirelene
inhibits the release of catecholamines,
including epinephrine and
norepinephrine, in vitro.
Peptides
 Clinical studies are rather limited at this time, and
penetration in vivo has yet to be determined.
 One study using Argirelene around the eye area
found a 17% improvement in periorbital rhytides
after 15 days
 and a 27% improvement after 30 days.
 According to studies from the company, Argirelene
should be used at a 10% concentration for optimal
results
Growth factors
The use of growth factors in skin care,
though sold in many products, is still quite
early in its development. There is only one
growth factor that is FDA approved for
clinical use in wound healing, and that is
platelet-derived growth factor (PDGF). It took
approximately 35 years for the approval of
PDGF, and yet many other growth factors
are being used in skin care. After proving
skin penetration, safety must be of primary
concern since there are multiple receptors
that are up- and down-regulated.