Transcript Slide 1

TEXTILES -
Theory paper
Main format of the examination paper -
Eight questions – 2 hours – 40%
Use this guide along with your
Revision guidebook:
KEY pages:
8-12 – types of research and specification heading and types.
13- 15 – colour primary, secondary, monochromic,, complementary, harmonious,
warm, cold, pattern and texture.
18- 23 recycling and sustainability.
26 –27 mood boards and trend forecasting
32 – 33 types of specifications
Fibres and yarns 36 – 51 – is a key area that you must learn.
What are fibres and yarn. Different types of fabrics - knitted, woven and bonded
fabrics. Weave types. Properties of fabrics – p41 and how fabrics can be
combined. Special fabrics – p43 elastane, Kevlar, microfibres.
Finishes – there three types – physical, biological and chemicals – know about
three different types for each type. P 44 – 47.
Smart fabrics – 49 -51
Read p 54 – 58 about different ways of decorating fabric
Pattern making – lay planning – construction techniques – 60-63 – key pages to
learn. .
Quality control and quality assurance. - p68
Fabric testing – p67 – often there is a question on this.
Regulation and standards – p68 – 69 – NB BSI and CE symbol
Production planning – p74 -75 key area
Production plans and use of computer in textiles – p 76 – 79
Industrial clothes manufacture – 80 – 81 – important area.
Labelling – p86- 87
Question 1 – Product analysis – 15 marks
Read the question carefully and respond as fully as possible. .
You may be given a product and asked to critically analyse it – take this
opportunity to show off your technical knowledge and language. Questions will be
similar to the design specification – relating points to target group, material
properties, aesthetics, safety
Question 1 – Product analysis – 15 marks
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You need to be able to write a specification
Look at the aesthetics of a product
Study the function of a product
Quality issues relating to the product
Safety issues relating to a product
Consider the scale of manufacture
How it is made
Safety considerations when making a product
Write a specification for a weekend bag you
may want to write about the following
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Size
Cost
Production
Manufacture
Aesthetics
How it is made
Mass vs Batch Production
• If your product were to be sold commercially do you think it
would be produced in high volume (mass production) or low
volume (Batch production).
• Mass produced products would be made in a factory with a
dedicated production line especially set up just to make your
product. Mass produced products would generally be sold in huge
numbers in order to reduce the production set up costs.
• Batch produced items would be made in significantly smaller
numbers. A batch would be made in a more versatile production
set up as this type of manufacturer may make different items
every day.
• Mass-High volume production likely to be less labour intensive
due to CAD/CAM use of automated machinery.
• Batch-Smaller volumes of production, likely to be more labour
intensive.
Question 2 is about the general issues of Design and
Technology. It is worth a total of 10marks.
• Environmental issues
• 6 R’s
• Labelling - • Kitemark. • C E marking
• Children's goods and toys – Lion mark.
• Care labelling codes using symbols.
Sustainability
How can we achieve a sustainable future
as designers and manufacturers?
• Use environmentally friendly materials
• Use materials that can be recycled or reused
• Use materials that do not use a lot of power to
produce.
• Use materials that are easy to recycle
Sustainability
• Why are sustainability issues and environmental
issues important.
• Global warming due to industry and carbon emissions (polar ice
caps melting, sea levels increasing changes to global weather)
• The planet has not got an infinite supply of materials. It is estimated
that we have 30yrs of oil supplies left. Plastic is made from oil.
• Landfill costs us millions of pound a year and we are running out of
places to put our rubbish.
• Designers have a duty to limit the impact of their products and
prevent a negative environmental impact.
• Sustainability is more than using recycled or recyclable
materials to manufacture their products.
• It is the total impact that the process of designing has on
the environment.
The six R’s
Sustainability – You need to know these!!
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Rethink
Reuse
Recycle
Repair
Reduce
Refuse
Read information on page 22 of your revision notes for further details
Sustainability
• Life cycle analysis – look at the impact of these products,
what will happen to them in the future
• Cheap cotton clothing – huge use of chemicals, land and
water. Cheap labour – 50p a day for use to wear nearly
“disposable” clothes. The £2 t-shirt is “costing the earth”
• Clothes are now such poor quality they cannot be
recycled to Africa etc where there is a big demand.
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Traditionally – patchwork
Shoe soles (tyres)
Play mats (tyres)
Plastics (benches)
Glass various
Metal various
Products made from recycled materials
Responsibility in designing and making
• Social – Enjoyment that product may give and effect on quality of
life. Does the product have a positive effect on life.
• Economic – Cost, is it value for money and commercially viable.
Does it use too much non renewable resources in the production
process.
• Environmental- How much co2 does it give off in production. Can it
be re-cycled. Can it be re-used. Does the process by which it is
made give off bad by-product (noise, smell, pollution).
• Designers need to think about the environmental impact of their
products after they have ended their useful period. Well known
designers who are “up cycling” e.g. Junkystyling, Treepeople.
• Will they end up in landfill, can they be recycled reused, look at the 6
R’s.
Question 3 is about the designers you have studied. It is
worth a total of 10 marks.
John Galliano Vivienne Westwood
You will need to know key aspects about these designers –
You need to study these two designers and understand the
following aspects:
(a) the range of work that they have produced over time;
(b) how to identify the work of each of the Designers;
(c) the innovations and/or new ideas that the two
Designers have introduced over time;
(d) the influence that each of the two Designers has had
on the world of Design and Technology
Be prepared to compare the two designers!
Select 20
keywords that describe or personify Vivienne Westwood
flashy
rebellion
eccentric
original
provocative
rebel against tasteless casual wear
there can be no good taste without elegance
elegance
rebels
passion
provocative
Malcolm McLaren
one of the most
influential British
fashion designers
provocative prints
intellectual
observation
zipper, safety pins,
razor blades
anarchist
Sex Pistols
punk
Malcolm McLaren
“plundering” the old
inspiring
studying their cuts
bustles
England’s aristocracy
hooped skirt – Mini Crini 1985
Anglophilia
crinoline
new tartan 1993 MacAndreas
Trends by – fashion designers
Vivienne Westwood
WJEC information – marking scheme info.
Vivienne Westwood:
• Vivienne Westwood has been at the centre of British fashion for 34 years and is
one of its most inventive and influential designers.
• Vivienne Westwood first started selling her outrageous clothes in the shop ‘Let it
Rock’ owned by her partner Malcolm McClaren.
• The ‘punk style’ gained notoriety when clothes designed and made by Westwood
were worn by groups such the Sex Pistols and the New York Dolls.
• ‘Punk Style’ clothing featured skin tight leather clothing with tons of zips trimmed
with items such as safety pins, bicycle chains and spiked dog collars worn as
jewellery.
• She combined traditional elements of British design, such as tartan and Harris
Tweed, alongside the more unusual elements of her style, which made the overall
effect more
shocking.
• A historical influence has always shown in her work, such as the corset and
crinoline – taking original cutting principles and modernising them.
• Other influences in her work include ethnic Peruvian influences, feminine figure,
velvet and knitwear.
• Her Ready-to-Wear collections feature style details such as ripped hems and torn
seams.
• The tube skirt is one of her most successful and commercial designs.
• Westwood re-launched the corset, which Karl Lagerfeld described as one of the
most important fashion ideas of the 20th century.
Key “looks” of Vivienne Westwood – Mini Crini collection 1985
“plundering” the old
England’s aristocracy
elegance
heritage
heritage an endless inspiration source
traditional materials & patterns
dismantled uniforms & costumes
studying their cuts
bustles
experimenting with new combination
rejection & attraction
intellectual observation
Anglophilia
crinoline
hooped skirt – Mini Crini 1985
took women’s bodies hostage in the
name of fashion
WJEC information – marking scheme info.
John Galliano:
• One of the most influential designers of our time.
• He is known for creating some of the most spectacular fashion shows in recent
years.
• John Galliano’s varied life has had a direct influence on the
vivid colours he uses in his collections.
• He launched his own label before becoming chief designer of France's haute
couture flagship, Christian Dior, in Paris.
• John Galliano found his first signature mark through strong and personal
collections.
• His sense of elegance and his proud tender vision of women made him a popular
designer.
• His collections have always been considered as romantic, this is evident in his
Autumn/winter collection 2001 which was a combination of high-tech modernity and
romance.
• Features of some of his earlier collections include jackets worn upside down and
inside out, with romantic organdie shirts.
• He accessorised his collections with everything from magnifying glasses,
smashed and worn as jewellery to rainbow-coloured ribbons sewn onto the insides
of coats.
• Galliano reinvented the 1930s-line bias-cut dress and made it modern, he is also
known for creating narrow, very feminine tailoring.
Question 4 is about the design process and how it is used.
and also the design question - 25 marks.
Design Question
You will have design based questions on :
Key terms from your coursework
What is an evaluation? ongoing and summative
What is a specification? design specification and
product or manufacturing specification
How can we use CAD when designing?
Why do we do product analysis?
Why do you develop your design ideas?
Exemplar question
Study the mood board below and use it as inspiration to
design a co-ordinated two piece summer outfit for either
male or female young adults.
MOOD BOARD
Your design must:
• be suitable summer wear for either males or females;
• reflect the theme and colours of the mood board;
• include specific named style details;
• include details of the imaginative use of a named decorative technique;
• be made of suitable specific named materials.
Circle key words so you can focus on the where the marks are.
Marks will be awarded for:
(i) a co-ordinated two piece design based on the images and colours of the
mood
board which is suitable summer wear for either male or female young
adults; [6]
(ii) the imaginative use of a named decorative technique; [3]
(iii) labelling three specific style details; [3]
(iv) labelling two specific suitable materials; [2]
(v) quality of communication. [4]
Analyse where the BIG marks are
Drawing in PENCIL – add colour with coloured pencils only
Do not spend too much time colouring in – add a splash of colour to
indicated colour and texture
Justify detail or any thoughts
use as much technical
language as possible.
Name style features if you can
Make sure you are specific about components, construction
and style details e.g.
• open zips, closed zips, velcro, straps, buckets, buttons and buttonholes
• single dart, double dart
• tucks, gathers – drawn or elasticated, drawstrings, casing
• seams – open – name the neatening overlocked, zig-zag, double stitched
(jean seam) french seam for delicate fabrics and underwear.
• Finishing edges – hems, facing, frills, piping, binding.
You can make magnified
Justify your fabric choice
views to help explain your thinking
- time to show off your fabric
properties knowledge e.g. Medium weight knitted cotton – cool and
absorbent will also stretch with use to allow movement, also use any
Smart Materials to max your marks. Water proofed nylon , just
naming cotton will not get you high marks.
Name style features if you can
Identify and use
style details which reflect current trends and which are
Sleeves: raglan, set-in, dolman, gathered, short/long.
Name style features if you can
Identify and use
style details which reflect current trends and which are
Necklines: square/round, sweetheart, boat.
Collars: tunnel, sailor, shirt, rever, roll, shawl.
Name style features if you can
Name style features if you can
Identify and use
style details which reflect current trends and which are
Pockets: patch, welt, shaped, in side seam.
Fastenings: zips, buttons, buckles, Velcro, eyelets, ties, poppers.
Pleats: knife, box, inverted, kick.
Name style features if you can
Identify and use
style details which reflect current trends and which are
Necklines: square/round, sweetheart, boat.
Question 5 is about Commercial
Manufacturing
Practices. It is worth a total of 10 marks.
Production methods
Different scales of textiles production call for different production methods. The main
ones are:
One-off production
One-off production is designing and making a single textile product to a client's
specification. The garment design is developed from a basic block pattern, with a
prototype made from inexpensive fabric to test the drape, fit and assembly of the
garment.
Batch production
Batch production is manufacturing set quantities of a textile product to order. The
prototype is made up in a medium size from the intended fabric. The prototype is
checked for quality of design and manufacture, then put into production in a range of
standard sizes. The quantity of products can vary from a set of four cushions made
by a designer-maker, to 20,000 jumpers made for a department store.
Mass production
Mass production is industrial-scale manufacture of large quantities of products,
usually on a production line. Mass production is suitable for products that seldom
need to be redesigned and are needed in very large numbers, eg socks or jeans.
The following table explains how these production methods are used in the textile
industry:
7 - Batch vs Mass production on a greater scale.
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If your product were to be sold commercially do you think it would be
produced in high volume (mass production) or low volume (Batch
production).
Mass produced products would be made in a factory with a dedicated
production line especially set up just to make your product. Mass
produced products would generally be sold in huge numbers in order to
reduce the production set up costs.
Batch produced items would be made in significantly smaller numbers. A
batch would be made in a more versatile production set up as this type
of manufacturer may make different items every day.
• Mass-High volume production likely to be less labour intensive due to
CAD/CAM use of automated machinery.
• Batch-Smaller volumes of production, likely to be more labour
intensive.
Progressive Bundle System
With the progressive bundle system, the sewing operations are laid out in sequence.
Each operator receives a bundle, does his/her work, reties the bundle and passes it
to the next operator. There is usually a storage facility such as rack, bin or table for
storing the inter-process work between each operation. The work is routed by
means of tickets. This system is the most widely used system in the garment
industry today. It is used in shirt factories, jeans factories, jacket factories, etc.
Progressive bundle system:
A system used in clothing
production where the task of
assembling the garment is
broken down into small
operations, and bundles of
work are progressed down
the production line through
each operation in sequence
until the assembly process is
complete
Progressive Bundle System
Advantages:
1. High productivity
2. 2. A uniformly high standard of work can be achieved.
3. 3. Training time and costs can be reduced.
4. 4. Semi-skilled labour can be used. 6. Individual performance can be monitored
and incentives offered.
Disadvantages
1. Machine investment costs are high.
2. 2. The system is not very adaptable for short-run production and frequent style
changes, as these require rearrangement of the workstations.
3. 3. It involves high handling costs for bundle handling and transportation.
4. 4. It requires a high level of management skill to arrange the workflow and decide
on the number of operators for each operation.
JIT – Just in time
• Producing parts and products just before
they are needed.
• This means that valuable parts and
equipment is not left sitting on the shelf as
costing money in storage and unsold
product.
• Producing components without a buyer
costs the business money to hod stock
• Danger of not selling the product
becoming obsolete.
Question 6 is about Materials and Components. It is worth a total of
15 marks
How fabric is constructed –
• Weaving: plain, twill, satin, herringbone, pile.
• Knitting: weft knit and a warp knit.
• Bonding: sticking with adhesives; heating thermoplastic fibres; stitching a
web of fibres.
• Laminating.
• Felting.
Types of fibres and sources
Natural polymers:
• Animal polymers: wool/fleece – mohair, cashmere, angora, alpaca,
camel (hair).
• Insect polymers: silk.
• Plant polymers: cotton, linen hemp, jute.
Manufactured polymers:
• Natural: rayon, viscose, rubber, metal, glass.
• Synthetic: polyester, polypropylene, nylon, elastane, lycra, aramid
fibres.
• Microfibres – Tactel, Tencel (Lyocell).
properties of the main natural and manufactured fibres/fabrics
• The
including:
strength, elasticity, absorbency, durability, insulation,
flammability, water repellency, anti-static and resistance to acid,
bleach, sunlight.
• Blending
and mixing fibres improves the properties and uses of yarns and
• Bonding breathable water
allweather
wear (Gore-Tex, Permatex).
proof membranes to outer fabrics for
• Quilting – polyester wadding between an outer and lining material
Smart fabrics are a must learn
See page 49-51
Smart fabric
• Smart fibres and fabrics that respond to the environment or stimuli:
Micro-encapsulation.
Photochromic properties.
Thermochromic properties.
• Interactive textiles that function as electronic devices and sensors:
Circuits integrated into fabrics such as heart rate monitors.
Wearable electronics such as mobile phones or music player.
Wearable electronics integrated into the fabric itself.
• The impact of biotechnology.
• Micro fibres in clothing manufacture.
• Breathable materials.
• Sun protective clothing.
• Kevlar (used in cables for civil engineering – modular compression
engineering); recycling PET bottles into fleece fabrics.
• carbon fibres.
• Nomex.
• Geotextiles for landscaping.
• Rhovyl as an antibacterial fibre.
Question 7 is about Tools, Equipment and Making related to
textiles technology. It is worth
a total of 20 marks.
Question 7 is about Tools, Equipment and Making related to textiles technology. It is
worth a total of 20 marks.
Question 7 is about Tools, Equipment and Making related to textiles technology. It is
worth a total of 20 marks.
On the pattern layout question
Straight of grain along the selvedge edge
Take time to work out the pattern pieces and
where they could be placed – all pieces to run
along the straight of grain.
Question 8 is about ICT, CAD, CAM, Systems and
Processes. It is worth a total of 15 marks.
Question 8 is about ICT, CAD, CAM, Systems and
Processes. It is worth a total of 15 marks.
Read pages -77-78
All production systems consist of inputs, processes and outputs. Usually there is a
feedback loop as well, to enable the inputs and processes to be modified as a result
of quality control checks or feedback from customers. Production systems can be
modelled with a system diagram like the one below.
Other Information You May Be
Asked ABOUT in The exAm………
Computers are a great way of helping you design and
manufacture a textile product. They ensure accuracy in the
finish product.
There are three main ways in which computers can help in
the researching, designing and manufacture of a textile
product.
CAD- (Computer aided design) using computers to
help design your product
CAM-(Computer aided manufacture) using machinery to
help with the manufacture of textile products.
Three ways in which computer are used in the designing and making of textile
Trend
Retailer
products:
Number 1:Researching and presenting
a design
Internet- Researching retailers and designers to gather
ideas for your own product
Trend websites- These websites have information on
which fabrics, shapes and colours are in vogue
Digital cameras- Taking photographs of similar
products
3D modelling- Using computer software to show your
designs on a 3D model.
Spreadsheets- can help with calculating the cost of
fabric and components.
websites
websites
Digital
cameras
3D Modelling
Number 2: CAD (Computer aided design)
The advantages of using CAD allows you to make changes
and adjustments to your design without having to redraw, it is
also really quick. Here a few ways in which this can be used;3D modelling software- this allows you to design a product in
3D, a visual prototype.
2D paint software- allows you to design logos and repeat
patterns and experiment with different colours (colourways)
Scanners- allow you to scan fabrics which can be applied to a
3D model.
Scanning
2D paint
software
Number 3: CAM (Computer aided
manufacture)
CAM allows you to produce a product with a lot more speed
and accuracy. Here a few ways in which this can be used;-
Computerised
Sewing machine
Computerised sewing machines- a complicated logo or motif
can be embroidered on to a product.
Computerised fabric printers- computers can be used to
produce large amounts of printed fabric. For example
automated screen printing, this ensures quality and accuracy.
Drawing patterns and layplans- computers allow you to
adjust patterns. Computers also plan the most economical way
in which to lay the pattern pieces on the fabric.
Laser cutters- Computers are used to control lasers which cut
out fabric in multiple layers. CNC technology
Digital printing
Drawing patterns
and layplans
Laser Cutter
Advantages of CAD/CAM
Disadvantages of CAD/CAM
It reduces time and labour costs.
Changes can be made quickly and easily to
the design
Visual prototypes can be produced, giving the
client a better idea of how your design will look.
It is very accurate, which helps to ensure a
high quality product.
Large amounts of identical products can be
manufactured quickly and accurately.
The software is very expensive.
Workers require training in how to use CAD/CAM and this can be
expensive.
Computer virus can mean that work can be destroyed.
1) Printing is a popular method of adding
colour to a fabric.
Briefly describe one industrial printing method
which could be used to put the
Pattern on the fabric shown on right.
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(c) Computers are used in the design and manufacture of
printed fabrics.
Explain how Computer Aided Design (CAD) can be used to
produce a print design.
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______________________________________(4 marks)
(ii) Explain how Computer Aided Manufacture (CAM) can
be used to produce a
printed fabric.
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___________________________________4 marks)
PATTERN MARKINGS
Components are all
Lengthen or
shorten lines
Seam allownace
normally1.5 cm
Straight of grain
Place on fold
of fabric

Centre lfront or
centre back line
Cutting line
Seam line or
stitching line
Notches
Dots
Button hole
Button
The notches and dots are for matching
the pattern pieces when sewing together
ic
fa
br
of
as
back bag
cut 1
Lay for cutting
out a bag
base of
bag
cut 1
Bi
selvedge
front bag
cut 1
Straight of grain
length of fabric
= direction
of pins
the items you need to make your
design but not the equipment or
main material. You will need
material for appliqué if you use
that technique.
Dyes, fabric paints. You will need
some pre manufactured
components such as, Velcro,
buttons or poppers, zips.
Thread, Bondaweb, stranded
embroidery thread (made from
cotton), ribbon
Quality control is a way of making
sure that the product you make is fit for
the purpose it was made. The product
should meet the criteria set down in
the specification.
To make sure the product meets that
specification tests and checks are
carried out throughout the making of
the product.
In your production plan you will have
selected critical points to see if the
product is good enough e.g. once the
product is cut out you will check it is the
correct size.
Each stage of production can be
graded: Acceptable quality - the
product matches the specification
Rework - the product does not meet
the specification but can be redone e.g.
a hem can be re-machined
Reject - the product cannot be
corrected e.g. the fabric is torn - this is
where many ‘second’ products come
from.
Computers are used in many ways in the textile and
fashion industry: from client presentation through
design, manufacture, stock control to
sales.Computers are used because they can easily
and effectively display product ranges, give a
reduction in time taken and can decrease cost and
increase efficiency
Research & Presenting:Internet, interactive trend
sites, sending images through Email, mood-boards,
costing (spread sheets), presentation boards
Designing: Developing ideas (drawn and researched
on computer), creating designs, creating garment
outlines, creating patterns for fabric, developing
colour-ways, using virtual designs (3D images of
design)
Controlling machines: Knitting machines, pattern
drafting machines, cutting machines, weaving looms,
testing equipment, digital printing, screen-printing,
embroidery machines
Manufacturing:Manufacturing plans and
specifications, controlling dying, controlling spinning,
laser cutting, lay planning systems, body
measurement software
Selling: Internet selling, advertising, mail-shots,
websites, security tagging and labelling. Items can
be re-ordered through bar coding system