Transcript Puppy Raisers of UD

Puppy Raisers of UD
New Member Meeting
Contact Information
Club Leader: Kim Winnington, [email protected]
President: Kathryn Emes, [email protected]
Vice President: Andrew DeAscanis, [email protected]
Secretary: Allie Wagner, [email protected]
Treasurer: Emily Sobeck, [email protected]
Public Relations: Liz Vacchiano, [email protected]
Webmaster: Chris Melillo, [email protected]
Seeing Eye Area Coordinator: Vicki Hennig
**Website: udpuppyclub.com**
What you all want to know!
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How do I become a puppy sitter?
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Attend two meetings (or new member
meeting)
Complete certification quiz and training circle
How do I become a puppy raiser?
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Sophomore status (can apply as a freshman)
Be in good academic and disciplinary standing
Puppy Hunt** (first 7 items, and earn at least
300 points)
Must apply as a group, Primary Raiser and
Secondary raiser
Must attend at least two meetings prior to
applying
Puppy Hunt
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Can be found on our website under
“Resources”
Take photo (or video) of hunt items and
post in facebook group (create your own
album) with caption (#, and description)
Photos should demonstrate puppies
behaving properly!
Several items require you to speak with
an e-board member
Rules are included on the Puppy Hunt
First seven items are required if you wish
to raise a puppy
ex. From Puppy Hunt #44: All in the Family
The Seeing Eye and Puppy Raising
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The Seeing Eye enhances the independence, dignity, and self-confidence of blind
people through the use of Seeing Eye® dogs.
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The Seeing Eye is located in Morristown, NJ.
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Breeds and trains German Shepherds, Labrador Retrievers, Golden Retrievers, and Lab-Golden
Crosses. The Seeing Eye will also occasionally use Poodles.
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12 times per year a group of up to 24 blind students train with their new Seeing Eye ® dogs
at the Morristown campus. It costs $150 for a person’s first Seeing Eye ® dog and $50 for
each dog thereafter.
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Puppy raisers love, care for, and socialize Seeing Eye puppies until they are ready to return to
The Seeing Eye for formal guide work training.
A Seeing Eye puppy needs to learn how to:
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ignore all types of distractions that are normal for a dog to show interest
in.
behave properly at any time, even in situations that encourage
distraction and play.
be comfortable in as many different environments as possible, ranging from
busy city walks to residential and country walks.
avoid any physical behavior that would be harmful to a blind handler,
such as jumping up.
be friendly and relaxed around other animals without seeking their
company and attention more than that of their human companion.
calmly and confidently negotiate all types of stairs, surfaces and
elevators.
be friendly and relaxed around all types of people.
The desire to please and be with humans, wanting praise and
affection.
Rules to follow with Seeing Eye® puppies
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NEVER let a puppy off leash in public or outside (unless in a fenced yard)
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NEVER feed a puppy people food
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NEVER take a puppy on an escalator or in a revolving door
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When leaving a puppy unattended he must be in his crate (take off ALL of his
collars)
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Tie downs should be attached to the puppy’s flat collar
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Puppies should stay off furniture
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Always wear sneakers or closed toed shoes while handling puppies
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Our puppies go to the bathroom on command “Park Time” we do not let
them eliminate en route
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NEVER hit a puppy!!
Appropriate toys and play
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YES: large balls, Nylabones, Kongs, hard rubber toys
NO: Raw hides, soup bones, rope toys, anything smaller than
the puppy’s mouth
Please no tug-of-war, Fetch is OK (toys only please)
Our puppies are NOT altered – no humping!
We like Balanced Play!
In case of an emergency
Call Puppy Raiser and Kim or Vicki!!!
All medical treatment that will cost more than $150 must be
approved by The Seeing Eye. The attending vet (not the
puppy raiser) must call and speak to a Seeing Eye veterinarian
In case of extreme traumas: have pup stabilized and given
essential treatment, but make sure a Seeing Eye vet is
contacted as soon as possible
Vet forms can be found online by puppy raisers
Before you puppy sit
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Have housing approval
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Have permission from professor to take puppies
to class (do not take puppies on test days or to lab)
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Only offer to sit if you can fully commit! (puppies
should not be passed around without raiser’s knowledge)
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Start with short stays, once you get the hang of
it offer to do an overnight
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Puppies need a lot of attention!! Don’t offer to
sit if you have to study for a test or have a big
project to do
Puppy Sitting
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The puppy raiser should give you puppy kit and instructions,
leash & training collar/martingale, food, tie down/crate
(make sure you have these! – before the raiser leaves)
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Be on time picking up and returning a puppy
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Keep raisers updated! Always ask before doing something with
a pup. Don’t just assume anything.
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You may only sit one puppy at a time!
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Make sure puppies are placed in crates if left alone, NEVER leave
a puppy on a tie down
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Understand that all puppies are different! What may be OK for
one puppy, might not for another. Respect the raisers wishes 
Ask for help if you need it!
Things to always have with you
Puppy Kit:
Copy of TSE health card
Copy of rabies certificate
Emergency contact numbers
Seeing Eye I.D. card
Poop bags!!
Paper towels
Soapy water/ vinegar and water
Bowl
Toy (optional)
On puppy:
Bandana or vest
Tags on flat collar (name & number, TSE tag,
rabies)
Types of Collars
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Flat Collar
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Martingale
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Puppy should always have this on (except when in crate) with required
ID tags (name & number, Seeing Eye, and Rabies)
Tie-downs should be clipped to this collar
Quick Release
Should fit snuggly so it doesn’t slip over head (but not too tight!)
Only used for pups 16wks and up (with approval)
“D” rings should touch when tightened on puppies neck
Comes off inside and during play
Training Collar
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Used for pups 6 months and up (with approval)
The free-end that connects to the leash should go over his head not
under his neck. The collar will pop and release when there is no tension
on the leash
Comes off when inside and during play
Why we’re different
The puppies we are raising have a unique job ahead of them. Some fundamental parts
of that job set it apart from most dog training.
Our dogs need to be eager to pull out in front of their handlers and lead; they
should not be content to follow!
Our dogs must be confident enough to disobey a command that can lead to a
dangerous situation. This is called intelligent disobedience.
The basis of other types of training is “command and obey” with guide dog
training, the basis is “command and obey if it’s OK.” This is the difference
between training a dog and educating a dog.
Commands
Things we teach our puppies:
“Come”
“Sit”
“Down”
“Rest”
“Forward”
“Recall” or “Come and Sit”
“Stay back”
“Go to your place”
“Park time”
“Off”-if the puppy jumps up on
a person or furniture
Things we DO NOT teach
our puppies:
“Heal” (our puppies need to have
initiative, drive, and be out in
front!)
“Leave it”
… instead: “ahh ahh,” “no,”
“hup hup”
**We do not use treats or hand
signals to train our puppies, and we
only reprimand our puppies with our
voice.**
Walking on a leash
Our puppies always walk on the LEFT side. Place the leash in the palm of your right hand
(looping it in your hand, not around it). Use your left hand to control the leash, keeping
your knuckles facing forward. Training collars should be up behind the puppy’s ears.
If a pup is lagging behind or want to say hello to a passerby give him a “hup hup” command.
Always be sure the puppy is out in front of you with a steady pull, not walking along side
of you. *We need to balance his pull with being under control, and without being
dragged.*
Pulling is essential to guide work. Allowing our puppies to get used to leading early on will
make the transition that much easier on them.
Socialization
Our Puppies can go to:
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Retail Stores (with
permission)
Class (with prof. permission)
All university buildings
Approved housing on campus
Sporting events
And much more!
**consult the puppy exposure
guidelines and raiser before
any new experience.
Our Puppies can NOT
go to:
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Dog Parks
Zoos/Aquariums
Dinning Halls
Inside grocery stores
On Amusement park rides
On escalators, moving sidewalks, or
in revolving doors
If denied access…
Say “Thank You” and go
somewhere else.
Remember our puppies DO NOT
have the right to be there. It is the
disabled person, who has the right
to take their service dog (ADA).
General Outing Tips
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Relax!! Stress travels down the leash
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Puppy dragging you? STOP and SIT, change
direction, or do a recall. Get the focus back
on you, and praise him
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Puppy barking? Give a verbal “quiet,” do
simple obedience, get focus on you and
praise. Ex. Whining in class
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Watch for alert ears! Give the verbal “quiet”
before the sound comes out
General Outing Tips
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“Park” puppies before going into buildings and
ALWAYS pick up (don’t throw poop away
inside or near an entrance)
Make sure your puppy is tucked and out of the
way. Don’t stop and chat in front of doors.
Know where his head is.
“Three Second Rule”
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Yes, he can be petted. Make sure he is under
control – all four paws on the floor or in a sit
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The puppy can great other dogs, but ASK the
handler first
Common Inappropriate Behaviors
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Chasing/Lunging (*squirrels, leaves, birds, etc.)
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Barking
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Get puppy moving, say “hup hup!”
If you end up dragging him try sitting and watching and as soon as he
goes for it give a leash correction (a quick pop to the side with a
“No”)
Use the “Quiet” command
If this doesn’t work turn around and do basic obedience
Once he is refocused turn around and praise
Chewing on leash/pants while walking
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Correct with a simple “No” and gently remove leash or clothing
from mouth and continue moving
Prevent the behavior by keeping the leash directly behind his head as
you walk
Common Inappropriate Behaviors
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Chewing on objects
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Jumping
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Keep inappropriate objects out of their reach (Puppy Proof!)
If you catch them take the object away and replace it with an approved
toy (make sure he did not ingest anything)
They want to be close to your face (communication)
Greet puppy at his level
If expecting company – put on leash and have him sit at your side. If he
jumps tell him “Off ” give the leash a tug and put him back in a sit
No leash? Slide your thumb in his collar and put him in a sit.
Balking
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When a dog will stop and refuse to move forward
Getting another confident dog to walk with the puppy is helpful
Many times can stem from fear or the puppy wanting to do something
else
Try to figure out the underlying cause and work on that
Never force a fearful puppy!!
Scenarios
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What do you do if…
Getting Started!
Have FUN!!
Relax and enjoy the experience.
Remember our puppies are learning and so are you, don’t expect
perfection. Celebrate their spirit and…
ASK FOR HELP IF YOU NEED IT!
Questions?