Transcript Quick Guide to Painting 28mm British Napoleonics.

Quick Guide to Painting
28mm British Line
Napoleonics Part 1
Using Perry Plastics.
By R. McNeil
Online Guides by Ross
End Result
Here is the 26th Foot.
Introduction
I have been a painter and Wargammer for over 20 years, and a member
of NAWGC for 10 years. In this year 2011 with the Republic of Empire
Napoleonic rules (released 2009) several of the club members were
keen to start building a Napoleonic Army. Especially with weekends away
playing out the rules with one of the game designers Barry Hilton.
Several of us had 15mm armies but were looking at building 28mm figure
armies with the new introduction of Vitrix and Perry plastic miniatures.
These can allow large quantities of figures to be bought very
inexpensively to supplement metal ones. A vast French army was being
put together and the rest of us had to gather the opposition.
But that leaves the problem with 40 to 60 figures per box how to get
them painted quickly and efficiently. So here is my guide as a painter rather than an expert on Napoleonic battles and history. Check out the
NAWGC Links page for useful websites. The tutorial is aimed at people
with some basic assembly and painting experience. I hope you find this
tutorial useful.
End Result
Here is the 4th Foot.
Getting started
Perry plastics give you several options in multi poses the
main difference is to watch out for the shoulder pads.
The single small tufts for Centre Line, the figures used in
the initial pictures of the painting guide have the wider pads
suitable for Lights or Grenadiers for the Flank companies.
The Lights/Grenadiers arms and poses are mainly found on the
Command sprue, there are only two left arms holding gun in the
main infantry sprue with 2 options for right arms to match.
After clipping the plastic pieces out I use the edge of a sharp craft
knife to clean of any flash/mould lines – not a needle file as this still
leaves a rough edge and can easily damage detail on plastic figures.
Remember to push blade away from fingers. Or try putting a plaster on
the pad of the thumb most likely to get caught to act as a protection
against cuts.
End Result
Here is the 44th Foot.
Getting started
I found it easier with my 24 figure per battalion to take 5
command figures, 2 Light, 2 Grenadiers, 15 Centre Line.
We had decided to base them on a 40mm frontage and use
the 45mm for depth to disperse the figures.
I chose the poses I wanted for the Centre Line 2 - 4 firing, 2 4 reloading (ramrod on right arm on main infantry sprue), 2 - 4
gun held ready to front, rest basic poses. Unfortunately
kneeling poses are not available with Perry plastic box sets.
It was easier to pick the bodies with the same arms, then heads
and back packs in small groups rather than do all at once.
Once each figure cleaned of extra mould lines I would then glue arms
to the torso, then heads, then backpacks. Note the heads here are
for Peninsular campaigns - choose the other heads (no stovepipe) for
Waterloo.
End Result
Here is the 50th Foot.
Getting started
Keep the amount of polystyrene cement to a minimum to ensure it
does not go over any figure detail and hence dissolve it. Make sure
your hands are clean and relatively dry as you work.
Leave the figure for several hours before trying to undercoat and
paint – I usually leave over night.
As the figures are built I would “Blu-Tack” them onto a piece of wood
for the undercoat process. The spare piece of wood I use is
approximately 60cm long by 2cm wide (where the figures attached)
and 3cm high.
End Result
Here is the 81st Foot.
Getting started
Undercoating this way you can make sure you evenly spray
across many figures – typically 30 at a time – and you are
able to tilt, turn and angle them to ensure full coverage.
Usually cover hand holding the spare piece of wood with a
gardening glove. This is a process I find is much easier and
quicker than trying to undercoat figures in a box.
Here are my Highlanders ready for undercoat.
End Result
Here is the 1st Royal Scots Battalion.
Getting started
To begin the painting processes use
something like the lid of an aerosol
can to mount your figure.
Keeps your oily skin from
contaminating the painting surface.
Or accidentally wiping off new paint
as you hold the figure. Makes the
figure easier to hold and manipulate
as you paint.
Here is one of the
drummers ready to
paint.
End Result
Here is the 3rd Light Company.
Preparation – base coats
Here begins my step by step guide to painting the 28mm
plastics quickly in as few steps as possible. Typically a
British line infantry figure was painted from undercoat to
final colour on average in around 35 minutes per figure.
Usually I had 10 similarly posed figures being painted at
one time. For the first time through the process I would
suggest you should just try 5 at a time.
Suggestions for paint and brush sizes are given.
Depending on your skill/experience, should you find you are
making too many mistakes - and its not because the tip of the
brush you are using no longer comes to a point - drop to a
smaller brush size, ie go from the suggested size 1 to a 0.
Preparation – base coats
#1 : Undercoat Grey
primer – Spray paint
(Halfords)
#1
Figures attached to a piece of wood (with Blu-Tack) and
sprayed in a well ventilated area – as described before.
Leave for several hours to completely dry.
Preparation – base coats
#2
#2 : Brown wash (either
Burnt Umber – Inscribe diluted to wash so the paint
has a milk consistency,
or GW Flesh Wash – comes
ready to use).
Brush size 2
Jacket, arms, head, hands and gun initially covered.
Try to avoid trousers on the figure.
Illustration shown using Flesh Wash.
Preparation – base coats
#3
#3 : Black block in
(Licorice from
Plaid paint). Brush
size 1
Hat, shoes, backpack, bayonet sheath.
Using the shade Licorice gives a dark grey effect on the
grey undercoat.
Found once covered does not need any more work when
painting over the Grey undercoat – no need for dry
brushing & washes. Especially if not painted on too thickly.
Preparation – base coats
#4
#4 : Black Wash
(Licorice from
Plaid paint). Brush
size 1.
Satchel under water bottle, over straps, face (to better define eyes
nose and mouth), gun & hands, and shoulder pads.
If the brown you are using is darker than the wash in the pictures you
will be able to miss this step out and do these areas in step #2.
Make sure these areas are thoroughly dry before next process.
Preparation – base coats
#4
#4 : Alternative
Black Wash
(Licorice from
Plaid paint). Brush
size 1.
If you are planning to paint for the Waterloo period the trousers
were dark grey. Again this can be achieved here by doing a Black
Wash in one step at this point. If its too dark you can highlight with
the wet brush technique (described in step 5) with a mid grey
(Charcoal Black – Foundry, or Adeptus Grey – GW). I used this
technique with the 3rd Company Lights shown above.
On the other hand if you want a dirtied look use a dark brown wash on
the trousers – see next image.
Preparation – base coats
#4
#4 : Alternative
Dark Brown Wash
(Burnt Umber Inscribe). Brush
size 1.
An alternative choice for the trousers. This can be achieved
by doing a Dark Brown Wash in one step at this point. If its
too dark you can highlight with the wet brush technique
(described in step 5) with a mid brown (Scorched Brown –
GW). I used this technique with some of the 3rd Company
Lights shown above.
Painting – Wet brush
#5
#5
#5 : Artic Grey Wet brush over straps, trousers, shoulder
pads, top of stovepipe (for centre line), and satchel bag
under waterbottle. Brush size 1.
This step done first saves loads of time painting the straps in as a detail
later on. Notice the grey undercoat still seen on folds in trousers.
The “Wet brush” is like a dry brush technique with slightly more paint in
the brush head. But like Dry brushing you are dragging the brush head
across the top of the areas you want to paint. Still leaving the edges and
creases as the basecoat colour.
Painting – Wet brush
#5 : Artic Grey – more
information on painting
the trousers
The choice of paint will make a huge difference here. You
want light grey or white paint that is of high pigment and
therefore very opaque. It should be a consistency of cream
to ensure an easy transfer of paint to figure.
The brush should still have a good tip definition. Found it
was easier to paint the trousers in around the top to edge
of jacket, bayonet scabbard and around the bottom of
trousers. Then finish the rest of the trousers still leaving
the creases showing through with the grey undercoat.
Painting – Wet brush
#6
#6
#6 : Red (Scab Red GW). Mainly Wet brush. Brush size 0.
Bottom of Stovepipe for centre of Line, jacket sleeves
tails and a bit between straps (where required).
Here the choice of red is yours. The darker red here
worked for me as a better contrast. But even if the paint is
rather less pigment the brown undercoat helps give it the
shading and worn look in one layer.
Painting – Detail
#7
#7
#7 : Flesh (Tallarn Flesh - GW). Brush size 0.
Face, ears, hands and fingers.
Use the wet brush technique for the fingers. Pick up the
top of the fingers leaving the shade between. Does not
matter if some goes on the gun barrel. Take care with face
try a T shape above eyes and nose – leaving the eyes. Then
block in the rest of the face and try and leave the mouth
as shown.
Painting – Detail
#8
#8
#8 : Overcoat (Storm Blue Light - Foundry). Brush size 0.
Rolled up and sits on top of backpack.
Use the wet brush technique for the end of the overcoat.
Try and leave the straps black, and any creases try and
leave the black to bleed through.
Painting – Detail
#9
#9
#9 : Collar and cuffs – choose Regimental Facing colour
(Illustrated here is Bad Moon Yellow GW). Brush size 0.
Notice on the cuff - block in most of the area. Then just
the section around the top of the cuff. Leaving the section
for the white trim untouched.
Painting – Detail
#10
#10 : Water bottle (Tomb Blue Shade - Foundry). Brush size 0.
If you treat as a wet brush and flick across the top edges
of the water bottle leaves the grooves of the wood effect.
Painting – Detail
#11
#11 : Gun Barrel (Drab Foundry). Brush size 0.
Simple block in both sides of gun barrel.
Painting – Detail
#13
#13 : Hair (Any shade of brown, or tan - your
choice, or even just a brown wash to darken it
again). Brush size 0.
If you have brown undercoat and black wash. You might want
to leave this step out as the hair already looks dark brown.
If you have caught the hair in another step now is the
chance to fix it.
Painting – Detail
#14
#14
#14 : White detail (Artic Grey Foundry). Brush size 0.
This the most time consuming part of painting the 28mm Napoleonic
figure. Any bits of the straps requiring fixed do at this stage.
Take care catching the straps on the back pack, overcoat. Pick up
the white trim on the cuffs, and along the edge of the collar (only
try this if you are sure to have a steady hand). Remember to get
the gun strap, and the turn up on the bottom edge of the jacket.
Painting – Detail
#15
#15 : Black detail. Brush size 0.
For the water bottle strap. Goes around water bottle and up
across the chest.
Also fix any bits on back pack, hat, shoes, bayonet scabbard,
ammunition pouch, eyes on face or edges of straps / fingers
to recapture any lost definition.
Painting – Detail
#16
#16
#16 : Silver Metal detail (Boltgun metal GW).
Brush size 0.
For the bayonet, end of scabbard, circular rim of water
bottle, top of straps on overcoat, pan on back pack, gun
barrel, butt of gun, on strap of gun or ram rod on underside
of gun, and firing mechanism. Depending on figure pose.
Painting – Detail
#17
#17 : Gold Metal detail (Metallic Gold - Humbrol).
Brush size 0.
For the hat badge detail, and the clasp on chest straps.
Painting – Detail
#18
#18 : Black or Dark Brown wash. Brush size 0.
For the lower half of the water bottle, pan on back pack,
overcoat on edge nearest the back pack.
Or any metal sections you may wish to dull down a bit. If you
prefer you can replace this step with the Army Builder
varnish that also shades.
For Plastic figures
with acrylic paints
I would not varnish
them. At this point
the figures are
finished. Once the
battalion with the
command (with
flags) were done I
would glue them to
bases.
I would recommend painting the circular bases, around the
shoes, a mid green before mounting them on a base. For my
Peninsular armies I added a badge detail to the backpack …
Only Peninsular armies had the badge detail of the Regiment on the
backpack. In Waterloo the number appeared on the water bottle. Not
wanting to spend the hours required to paint these on. I used
PowerPoint text box Font size 4 with a black background. Printed out
onto an A4 adhesive label. I cut out the thin strips – leaving a side end
I could peal away easily. Then cut each square just making contact with
side of my finger. Then used tweezers to carefully pick up badge
detail and position between the straps of the back pack. I have added
this PowerPoint as “Peninsular Back Pack Badges” for your use.
I super glued ready made
tufts of grass made by a
German company - Mininatur
(available through Mutineer
Miniatures in the UK). Used a
paint brush to glue a diluted
PVA (wash consistency using
cooled boiled water). Then
used a mixture of Javis
scatter colours with sand to
texture the bases. This
scatter mixture was kept in
one of the microwave oven
safe plastic storage
containers that can be cheaply
bought at a supermarket or
pound store. Easy to dip the
bases into and tap the surplus
easily back into the container.
The End
I hope you found this
information useful and helps
you quickly turn that mountain
of plastic to finished figures
in quick time. It still required
just under 3 months to paint
around 300 figures using this
technique. But this is much
less than the half year I first
thought it would take.
As you can see the techniques
described here can be used
for other figures.
Next I plan to show a step by step process on painting the
Command figures, the Rifles, and Victrix Highlanders.