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Chapter 24 – 12’ Emphasize most attractive features/accents Minimize less attractive features/flaws For most people makeup should be subtle Application will vary from person to person Structure of the face Color of eyes, skin and hair How the client wants to look Results that can be achieved realistically Foundation Used as a base or protective film applied before makeup and/or powder Evens out skin tone Conceals minor imperfections Protects skin from the climate, dirt and debris Oil based - normal to dry skin types Liquid, stick, cream-to-powder, tinted moisturizers Water based – oily skin types Water based liquid, cream-to-powder, or powder – matte finish Color primer – applied before foundation to cancel out & disguise skin discoloration Green – redness Lavender – sallow or yellowish Amber – dark purplish Cream – Dry to normal skin Medium to full coverage Oil-based Liquid – Oily to normal skin Sheer to medium coverage Matte finish Water-based Powder – Oily skin Dry to powdery finish Success of the entire makeup application depends on the correct color selection and application of the foundation Skin tone determines foundation color Test at jawline Too light – dull chalky Too dark – muddy or splotchy Line of demarcation – obvious line where foundation starts or stops Classified as warm, cool, neutral Warm Cool Blue, blue-green (olive), blue-red (pink), Neutral Yellow, orange, red-orange Equal amounts of warm and cool tones FYI – page 759 Foundation should always match as closely as possible to the actual skin tone Apply at jawline to get the best match possible Color should “disappear” Remove from container with a sanitized spatula Applied to the face with a sponge Mineral Foundation Applied with a large fluffy brush Kabuki Brush Used to cover blemishes and discolorations, dark eye circles, dark splotches and may be applied before or after foundation Contain more talc or pigment for heavier coverage Available in pots, pencils, wands, and tubes or sticks Wide range of colors Contain Moisture or control oil, treat acne and oiliness, anti-aging and moisturizing benefits Here’s a Tip Page 760 - Pots are the heaviest and provide most coverage Pencil gives a sheer to medium coverage and may contain some moisture Wand is usually sponge or brush tipped, fluid consistency Tube or stick medium to sheer and may be used as a foundation Chemical composition is similar to cream foundation Removed from container with a spatula and applied with a sponge or brush Place sparingly over blemishes and blend with sponge It is IMPORTANT to match color to skin as close as possible! If too light can appear “raccoon –like” and draw attention to problems A fine cosmetic powder, sometimes tinted and scented Used to add a matte finish Improves overall attractiveness by enhancing skin’s natural color, helping to conceal minor blemishes and discolorations and toning down excessive color and shine Used to set the foundation Absorb excess oil Minimizes shine of oily skin Loose and pressed Powder base mixed with a coloring agent and sometimes perfume Bactericides are added to inhibit the growth of bacteria and preserve the product (powder) Talc or cornstarch with color pigments added Translucent – do not contain much color Light and medium weights - dry to normal skin types Heavier weight – normal to oily Powder should match well with the natural skin tone and work well with the foundation Should never appear caked, spotted, or streaked Apply using a fresh cotton puff remove excess with brush Pressed – compact and easy to carry for quick touch-ups Loose is best for use at home Blush, blusher, rouge Cream, liquid, dry (pressed) or loose powder used to color the cheeks beneath the cheek bone (zygomatic) Gives natural glow to the face and helps to create more attractive facial contours Oil based formulas – combinations of pigments in an oil or fat base Blends of waxes and oily liquids create a water-resistant product Cream – contain water, thickeners and surfactants that enable particles to penetrate hair follicles and cracks Cream or gel – dry to normal skin - applied with facial sponge Liquid – all skin types – blends well – applied with facial sponge Dry (pressed) – matte finish – most widely used – applied with a cotton puff or brush Loose powder - variety of shades – applied with brush or cotton puff Apply cheek color where natural color would normally appear (remember the triangle – outside corner of eye to corner of nose to top of ear – draw in book bottom of pp. 760) Do not extend color above the outer corner of eye Do not apply in bright round circle – blend color so it softly fades into foundation Lipstick or lip gloss Cosmetic paste usually in a tube Variety of colors Color the lips Enhance or correct the shape of the lips Some contain sunscreen Moisturizers help to keep the lips becoming dry and cracked Creams, glosses, pencils, gels, sticks All are formulas of oils, waxes, and dyes Castor oil is the primary ingredient Color agents Waxes Artistry and a keen sense of fashion needed to select appropriate colors Consider the client’s preferences, eye color, skin tone, and lip shade Apply directly from the tube ONLY IF IT BELONGS TO THE CLIENT! Otherwise apply with disposable lip brush Begin at outer corner of the upper lip and work towards the middle – repeat on opposite side Connect the center peaks using rounded strokes following natural lip line Repeat on bottom lip working from corners in and connecting in the middle Aim for symmetry and balance Colored pencil used to outline lips Helps to keep lip color from feathering or bleeding Usually applied before lip color to ensure proper shape and definition of the lips Chose color on fashion trends or one that compliments and coordinates with lip color Sharpen pencil and wipe with clean tissue before and after each use Sanitize sharpener after each use Line lips beginning at corner of upper lip and work toward the middle Repeat on opposite side Connect the center peaks with rounded strokes, following the natural lip line Outline the lower lip from the corners in Apply liner to lips for color staying power Applied to the eyelids to accentuate or contour Variety of colors Used wet or dry Finishes – metallic, matte, frost, shimmer, or dewy Stick and cream - water based with oil Water – resistant have a solvent base (mineral spirits) Pressed and dry – compressed with binders so as not to fall apart Makes eye appear brighter and more expressive Matching shadow color and eye color creates a flat field of color and should be avoided Use colors other than eye color - contrasting or complimentary Light and dark colors can bring attention to the eyes Darker shades make iris appear lighter Lighter shades make iris appear deeper Makeup selection should enhance client’s eyes Color choices should be subtle for daytime Colors may match and coordinate with client’s clothing Referred to as highlight, base, and contour colors Highlight lighter than skin tone and may have any finish Lighter color will appear larger Base color is generally a medium tone close to skin tone Used to even skin tone Applied all over the lid and brow bone, from lash to brow Other colors applied after, providing a smooth blending Matte finish is usually preferred Contour color, in any finish, is deeper and darker than skin tone Applied to minimize a specific area To create contour in a crease Define the eyelash line Remove with spatula and apply with fresh applicator or clean brush Remove and apply with unused disposable brush Apply close to lashes, sweeping color slightly upward and outward Blend Focus On 761 762 763 Here’s a Tip – 764 765 Used to outline and emphasize the eyes Variety of colors Pencil, liquid, pressed (cake), felt tip pen Create a line close to lashes to make eyes appear larger and lashes fuller Pencils have wax (paraffin) or hardened oil base (petrolatum) Soft and hard form Used on both upper and lower lids Liquid and cake Caution Box PP 764 Most prefer color same color as lashes or mascara for a more natural look More dramatic colors may be chosen depending on trends and own style Apply with extreme caution Have a steady hand and make sure the client remains still Sharpen with pencil and wipe with tissue before and after each use Sanitize sharpener before and after each use Apply in short strokes and gentle pressure, close to the lash line Powder application – scrape a small amount onto a tissue and apply with a disposable applicator Wet the brush first for a more dramatic look Eyebrow pencils or shadows are used to add color and shape to the eyebrows Darken the eyebrows Correct their shape Fill in sparse areas Similar to eyeliner pencil Ingredients in eyebrow shadow similar to eye shadow Sharpen with sharpener and wipe clean with tissue before and after each use Sanitize sharpener before and after each use Powder shadow application – scrape a small amount onto a tissue and apply with a disposable applicator Avoid harsh contrasts between hair and eyebrow color Used to darken, define and thicken the eyelashes Liquid, cake, and cream form Variety of shades and tints Brushes (wands) can be curved or straight with fine or thick bristles Enhances natural lashes, making them appear longer and fuller Lashes should be darker than eyebrows Polymer products Water, waxes, thickeners, film-formers, and preservatives Pigments Rayon or nylon fibers to lengthen and thicken hair fibers Pigments – must inert Unable to combine with other elements Used on both upper and lower lashes Apply from inner to outer corners Dispose of wand NEVER DOUBLE DIP!!!!!!! Apply carefully Most common in jury is poking the eye with the applicator Curl lashes before applying mascara Eye makeup removers – used to remove makeup Oil based - are generally mineral oil with fragrance added Water based – are a water solution to which other solvents have been added Plain soap and water is sometimes ineffective Grease paint – heavy makeup used for theatrical purposes Cake or pancake makeup – Shaped, solid mass applied to the face with a moistened sponge Gives good coverage and used to cover scars and pigmentation defects Powder brush – large, soft to apply powder and blend edges of color Blush brush – smaller more tapered brush used for applying blush Concealer brush – narrow, firm with a flat edge Lip brush – narrow, firm with a tapered edge Eye shadow brushes – variety of sizes – small to large, soft – firm The softer and larger the brush the more diffused and blended the shadow will be A firm brush is better for depositing dense color than for blending Eyeliner brush – firm, tapered, firm bristles Angle brush – firm, thin bristles Lash and brow brush – comb-like brush used to remove excess mascara on lashes or to comb brow into place Tweezers – metal or plastic - used to remove excess facial hair Eyelash curler – metal or plastic used to give lift and upward curl to upper lashes Commercial sanitizer can be used for quick cleaning Spraying cleaner over a long period of time can dry out brushes A gentle shampoo or brush solvent should be used Will not hurt bristles and may help them last longer Caution: - the brush should always be put into running or still water with the ferrule pointed down If brushes are pointing up- water may remove the glue holding the bristles in place Rinse brushes thoroughly after cleansing Brushes will dry in the shape they are left in Reshape wet bristles and lay flat to dry State Regulatory Alert - 766 Sponges variety of shapes and sizes Apply and blend foundation Powder or cotton puffs – velour or cotton – used to apply and blend powder Mascara wand – plastic – one use only! Spatulas wooden or plastic Wide, flat base Disposable lip brushes – one time use only! Sponge-tipped shadow applicators – apply shadow and lip color or to blend eyeliner Cotton swabs – apply shadow, blend eyeliner, remove unwanted makeup from eyes or lips Cotton pads or puffs – apply astringents or makeup removers, apply powder products Pencil sharpener – used before and after each application of pencil cosmetics Everyone sees colors differently It may take awhile for you to see color naturally and easily Primary colors – cannot be obtained from a mixture Blue Red yellow Secondary colors – mix equal parts of two (2) primary colors Orange Green violet Tertiary colors – mix an equal a mount of a primary and the adjacent secondary colors Red-orange Orange-yellow Yellow-green Green-blue Blue-violet Violet-red Complementary colors – primary and secondary colors opposite each other on the color wheel Red – green (Christmas) Yellow – violet (Easter) Blue – orange (almost Halloween) These colors cancel each other out to make a neutral brown or gray When next to each other they look brighter Warm – Red Yellow orange Cool – Blue Green violet Three main factors Skin color Eye color Hair color 1st Light Medium dark 2nd Warm Cool Neutral - equal amounts of warm/cool Warm colors Yellow and gold Oranges Red-orange Most reds Some yellow-greens Cool colors Blues Greens Violets Blue-reds Reds Orange based – warm Blue based - cool Greens More gold – warm More blue - cool Light skin color Medium skin color Light tones – soft natural look Medium to dark tones – more dramatic look Medium tones – understated look Dark or light tones – striking and vivid Dark skin color Dark tones – most subtle Medium to medium-light tones- striking and vivid Be cautious choosing tones lighter than the skin If too light skin will appear gray or chalky Look for translucent or shimmery colors Neutrals will always be safest choice Have both warm/cool Work well on any skin tone, eye color, or hair color By contrasting eye color with complementary colors – emphasize the color most effectively Blue eyes – orange Contains yellow and red Make eyes look bluer Gold, warm orange/brown peach, and copper Red-browns mauves and plum Neutrals taupe or camel Green eyes – red Red shadows tend to make the eye look tired or bloodshot Pure red tones not recommended Brown-based reds Red-orange, red-violet, Coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauves, purples Brown eyes – neutral Any color Contrasting colors Greens, blues, grays, silvers Coordinate with same color family as the eye makeup Choose neutrals – coordinate with any makeup colors Hair color needs to be taken into account when determining eye makeup colors Table 771 Table 24 – 2 Here’s A Tip page 771 1. Determine skin level: dark, medium, light 2. Determine skin undertone: warm, cool, neutral 3. Determine eye color: blue, green, brown etc. 4. Determine complementary colors 5. Determine hair color: warm, cool 6. Choose eye makeup colors based on complementary or contrasting colors 7. Coordinate cheek and lip colors within the same color family: warm, cool neutral 8. Apply Makeup Listen closely and try not to impose your own opinions Your role is: To hear your client’s wishes Concerns To make recommendations based on your knowledge Clean Tidy Clean brushes after each use Tidy makeup area daily Portfolio - your own pictures Magazine layouts Adequate and flattering Be sure client’s face is evenly lit without dark shadows Natural light best choice Combination of incandescent (warm and most flattering) and fluorescent (cool) Make sure light shine directly and evenly on the face Visually assess client to understand their personal style Engaging the client in conversation will help determine their needs Skin conditions How much or how little is normally worn Daily versus special occasion makeup Amount of time spent applying makeup Colors likes or dislikes Any makeup the client is having trouble with Here’s a tip - Page 774 & 775 Time for you to work your magic Subdued lighting: More definition for eyes, cheeks, and lips Add drama by applying false eyelashes and shimmery colors on eyes, lips, cheeks or complexion Wedding: Matte colors are recommended Shimmer may reflect too much light Striking contour eyes Page 773 Dramatic Smoky Eyes Pages 773 - -774 Use darker blush under cheekbones to add definition Add brighter, lighter color to apples of cheeks and blend Use cheek color with shimmer or glitter over cheekbones for highlight 1. Apply lip liner to, fill in lip line with pencil, and blot 2. Add similar color in lipstick over entire lip area 3. Apply gloss to the center of the lips Activity: color faces All faces are interesting in their own special way, but few are perfect These tiny imperfections can make the face more interesting if treated artfully Facial makeup can create the illusion of better balance and proportion when desired Caution box Basic rule for makeup is that highlighting emphasizes a feature and shadowing minimizes it A highlight is produced when a cosmetic, usually foundation is lighter than the original foundation is used on the a particular part of the face A shadow is formed when the foundation is darker than the original color The use of shadows minimizes prominent features so that they are less noticeable Emphasize attractive features and minimize less attractive Goal of effective makeup is to enhance the client’s individuality, not to “remake” her image according to some ideal standard Face is divided into three (3) equal horizontal sections (pp. 775 figure 24-21) 1st – 1/3 hairline to top of the eyebrows 2nd – 1/3 top of eyebrows to the end of the nose 3rd – 1/3 end of nose to the bottom of the chin Oval face is approximately ¾ as wide as it is long Distance between the eyes is the width of one eye Broader in proportion to its length Rounding chin and hairline Makeup applied to: slenderize lengthen the face Comparatively straight lines Wide forehead Square jawline Corrective makeup applied to: offset the squareness soften the hard lines Jaw is wider than forehead Corrective makeup is applied to: create width at the forehead Slenderize the jaw Add length to the face Wide forehead and narrow pointed chin Corrective makeup applied to: minimize width of forehead Increase width of jawline Narrow forehead Greatest width is at cheekbones (zygomatic bones) Corrective makeup applied to: reduce width across cheekbone Greater length in proportion to its width than the square or round face It is long and narrow Corrective makeup is applied to: Create illusion of width across cheekbone (zygomatic bone) Making the face appear shorter Low forehead Protruding forehead Application of lighter foundation lends a broader appearance between brows and hairline Apply a darker foundation over prominent area to give an illusion of fullness to the rest of the face Suitable hairstyle will also draw attention away from the forehead FYI – page 776 Large or protruding nose Darker foundation on the nose Lighter foundation on the cheeks at the sides of the nose Creates fullness in the cheeks and makes nose appear smaller Avoid cheek color on nose Short or flat nose Lighter foundation down center of nose Makes nose appear longer and larger If nostrils are wide apply darker foundation to both sides of nostrils Broad nose Darker foundation on sides of nose and nostrils Avoid darker foundation on laugh lines - it will accentuate them Carefully blend foundation to avoid visible lines Protruding chin and receding nose Shadow chin with darker foundation Highlight nose with lighter foundation Receding chin Highlight chin with lighter foundation Sagging double chin Use darker foundation on the sagging portion Use natural skin tone foundation on the face Blend foundation onto the neck so the client’s color is consistent from face to neck Set with translucent powder to avoid transfer onto client's clothing Broad jawline Apply darker shade of foundation over heavy area of jaw – starting at the temples This will minimize the lower part of the face and create an illusion of width in the upper part of the face Narrow jawline Highlight by using a lighter foundation shade Round, square, or triangular face Apply a darker shade of foundation over the prominent part of the jawline By creating a shadow over this area the prominent part will appear softer and more oval Small face and short, thick neck Darker foundation on the neck Will make the neck appear thinner Long thin neck Lighter shade of foundation on the neck This will create fullness and counteract the long thin appearance of the neck Round eyes Lengthen by extending eye shadow beyond the outer corner of the eyes Close-set eyes (closer than length of one eye) Lightly apply shadow up from outer edge of the eye Protruding or bulging eyes Minimized by blending shadow carefully over the prominent part of the upper lid Carrying it lightly toward the brows Use a medium to deep shadow color Heavy-lidded eyes Shadow evenly and lightly across the lid from the edge of the eyelash line to the small crease in the eye socket Small eyes Wide-set eyes Extend the shadow slightly above, beyond, and below the eyes Apply shadow on the upper inner side of the eyelid toward the nose and blend carefully Dark circles under eyes Apply concealer over dark area, blending and smoothing into surrounding area Set with translucent powder Deep-set eyes Use bright, light, reflective colors Use the lightest color in the crease Light to medium color sparingly on the lid and brow bone Well-groomed eyebrows are a part of the complete and effective makeup application The eyebrow is the frame for the eye Overgrown eyebrows can cast a shadow on the brow bone or between the eyebrows Over-tweezed eyebrows can make the face look puffy or protruding, or may give the eyes a surprised look Remove all unnecessary hairs and demonstrate how to use an eyebrow pencil Ideal eyebrow shape can be drawn in three (3) lines Page 781 Figure 24-53 1st – vertical from corner of nose to inner corner of the eye (eyebrow begins) 2nd – corner of the nose to the outer corner of the eye ( eyebrow ends) 3rd – vertical from the outer center of the iris (highest part of the arch) Low forehead Wide-set eyes Low arch gives more height to a very low forehead Extend the eyebrow line to the inner corners of the eye Be careful not to give a frowning look Close-set eyes Widen the distance between the eyebrows and slightly extend them outward Round face Long face Arch the brows high to make face appear narrow Start directly above the inside corner of the eye and extend to the end of the cheekbone Make the eyebrows almost straight can create the illusion of a shorter face Do not extend the brows farther than the outside corners of the eye Square face Face will appear oval if the arch is high on the ends of the eyebrow Begin directly above the corners of the eyes and extend them outward Contain fiber to make lashes look longer & fuller Built into mascara or separate product Prescription drug “Latisse®” Lips are usually proportioned so that the curves or peaks of the upper lip fall directly in line with the nostrils Lip Figures Ruddy skin Red, wind-burned or affected by rosacea Apply a yellow or green foundation to affected areas blending carefully Apply a light layer of foundation with a yellow base over entire complexion Set with a translucent or yellow-based powder Avoid red or pink blushes Sallow skin Skin that has a yellowish hue Apply pink based foundation on the affected areas and blend carefully into the jaw and neck Set with translucent powder Avoid yellow-based colors for eyes, cheeks, and lips Age lines and wrinkles due to dry skin can be minimized with a foundation Apply the foundation sparingly and evenly in a light, outward, circular motion Care should be taken to remove any foundation that collects in lines and wrinkles Clients with sparse lashes and clients who want to enhance their eyes for special occasions are most likely going to request this service The objective is to make the client’s own lashes look fuller, longer and more attractive without appearing unnatural (unless the occasion calls for dramatic or enhanced look) Band lashes - Strip lashes Individual lashes Eyelash hairs on a strip that are applied with adhesive to the natural lash line Separate artificial eyelashes that are applied to the eyelids one at a time Eyelash adhesive Product used to make artificial eyelashes adhere or stick to the natural lash line Procedures pp. 787 - 788 Caution box pp. 783 Human hair, mink hair or synthetic fibers Synthetic fibers are made with a curl will not react to the weather Variety of colors Commercial preparations Lash base may be softened by applying a face cloth or cotton pad saturated with warm water and a gentle facial cleanser Starting from the outer corner, remove the lashes carefully to avoid pulling out client’s own lashes Use cotton tips to remove any makeup and adhesive remaining on the eyelid Synthetic Attached directly to client's own lashes Eye tabbing Follow mfg. directions Pp. 783 Page 784 - 786 Caution box – Page 786 Service Tip 784