Transcript La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail

La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail
SDF
Presented to:
Boston Office
4 October 2002
History of the Maya
Mayan history begins in about 250, and lasts until about 1000. The famous disappearance of the Maya
was actually a slow fade over about 100 years. From roughly 700 AD, the center of Mayan civilization
moved from the highlands of Guatemala to the lowlands of the Yucatan peninsula.
The Maya were largely an urban people, building large cities surrounded by fields and residential suburbs.
Each province developed its own architectural style and city design, with smaller cities mirroring the
capital.
The Mayan glyphs were a system of counting and writing that baffled scientists for many years. Only a
few texts survived the conquest, and the stelae in the cities are largely ceremonial or astronomical in
nature. The numerical system was deciphered first, followed by the textual glyphs. This decoding is still in
progress, with some 800 glyphs having been identified across the Mayan world.
The Maya are known for the violence of their art and the vicious ball game played throughout the mesoamerican world. Personal mutilation was used in religious rites, generally by the ruler and his family.
Human sacrifice was also practiced.
After the decline of the Maya, other civilizations took over the lowland areas of Mexico and Guatemala.
The Aztec took some aspects of Mayan civilization, including the ball game and the human sacrifice. In
the highlands, the older Classic Maya tribes survive to this day, speaking Quechua and practicing the
Mayan religion alongside Catholicism.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
1
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
2
Copàn
• Inhabited 400 – 800 AD
• One of the largest Maya cities with a population
of 25,000
• Known for rich sculptural detail
• Cultural center of the Classic period
• Famous sites: Hieroglyphic staircase, ball
court, gathering of stelae
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
3
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
4
These Mayan glyphs name the ruler during the
time the altar above was built. Note the detailed
carving, still visible after 1200 years.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
5
The carvings at Copàn are extremely detailed and
deep, in contrast to the Palenque relief.
An open plaza has been turned into a sculpture
garden of sorts, holding stela and bits of carving
from around the site.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
6
A typical stela will have a
relief of a warrior king on
the front, and glyphs
detailing the date of the
stela and its purpose on
the sides.
They were erected to
commemorate
anniversaries, victories,
and other events in the
reign of the viceroy of the
city.
The subject is frequently
elaborately costumed and
masked, holding ritual
gear.
The calendar glyphs on
the side give a very
precise date, used to
create a history of the
people.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
7
The famous meso-american ball game was played on courts like this one. Note the three round bird heads
on the side walls, probably used for scoring. The stepped temple from which this photo was taken probably
served as a viewing area. This is the fourth ball court on this site, each built on top of the former.
The green tarp in the right foreground covers the hieroglyphic staircase, which cannot be photographed.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
8
The open plaza now holding the sculpture
garden can be seen behind the ball court.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
9
• Inhabited 250 – 900 AD
• Vast urban area with a population exceeding
100,000
• Considered “classic” or “standard” Maya city
• Long causeways link plazas, with temples
overlooking
• Famous sites: Templo del Grand Jaguar (I),
Temple de los Inscripciones
Tikal
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
10
Temple I (Templo del Grand Jaguar)
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
Temple IV (unnamed)
11
Temple II? This one you can climb.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
Coatimundi as seen on the grounds
12
This round altar is
enscribed with glyphs
around the edge,
which seem to
contain both a date
and a ruler’s name.
The central panel
shows a sacrifice.
Very few stelae and
other carvings
survive at Tikal, but
the temples are in
much better condition
and most can be
climbed.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
13
Yaxchilán
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
• Inhabited 400 – 700 AD
• Accessible only by river, small population
• Many carved lintels and stelae in excellent
condition
• Famous sites: labyrinth
14
The honeycomb tops on the temples at Yaxchilán are specific to this region. Honeycombs are seen further
north and west, but not to the east.
Note the stonework on the bottom level, which is not as fine as in other regions.
Since Yaxchilán is so remote, very few visitors or archeologists come here. Unlike the other sites, this one
is more realistic with fewer signs, staircases, and vendors.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
15
This set of caves is home to some tombs and
many, many bats.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
The temples are less restored here, but still
accessible.
16
The quality of carving is good, but much more
shallow than in Copàn.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
17
• Inhabited 600 – 800 AD
• Discovered 1946, until recently accessible only
by 10k hike
• Brilliantly colored murals – the only painted
surfaces remaining in the Maya ruins
• Famous sites: murals
Bonampak
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
18
This is the entirety of the site. The stelae are similar to those at Yaxchilán, with shallow carving now
largely eroded.
The building on the right with the doors holds the famous murals, which cannot be photographed.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
19
• Inhabited 250 – 800 AD
• Tower structure unique in Maya architecture,
constructed to give a view of the winter soltice
• Shows influence of Teotihuacan culture
• Famous sites: Tower, Temple of the
Inscriptions
Palenque
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
20
The construction of Palenque is unlike most other Maya sites, using corbeled vaults like these in the
hallways. While there are stepped temples, they have square buildings on top (as in the last slide). A few
have honeycombs similar to, but smaller, than those in Yaxchilán. Many of the roofs have the small finials
seen in this photo, specific to this site.
The carving in Palenque is very shallow, and some of the human figures are strangely out of proportion.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
21
This reproduction shows how the stelae would
have appeared at the time of the Maya.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
Note the different style of this memorial, with the
glyphs on the left and the figure to the right.
22
The most famous building at Palenque is this “palace”, most likely a temple and watchtower. The tower is
unlike anything in Maya construction, and may be a Teotihuacan influence. The flat roof and square
construction is similar to the temples in the rest of the site. From the base of the tower, you get a lovely
view of the valley below – the top room most likely commands a 360 degree view for defensive purposes.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
23
Important Travel Tips
Most of the Maya sites are heavily visited by
foreigners and locals alike. There are wellmarked paths and staircases to climb. However,
there are some important rules to follow.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
24
History of the Inca
Until 1400, the Inca nation was a small, regional culture based in the central highlands of Peru.
In the 1400s, the Incas began the greatest and most rapid expansion ever recorded. After 50 years, the
Inca dominated a region from Columbia to Chile.
By the time the Spanish arrived in 1532, Cuzco was a large and thriving metropolis with multiple palaces
and shrines covered in sheets of gold.
The Inca did not have a system of writing, but communicated across their vast empire with quipus, a
strand of cord attached to color-coded strings with series of knots. These were carried by relay-runners,
supported by an elaborate system of roads and lodges.
After the conquest, the empire was broken into several provinces by the Spanish. There was an Inca
resistance led by Tupac Amaru, but this was quickly put down. In 1572, 40 years after the Spanish first
entered the Andes, the last Inca leader was killed.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
25
Inti Raymi
Inti Raymi is a modern festival modeled on an Inca festival to welcome the return of the sun (Inti) on the
solstice. The original celebration was banned in 1572, but was revived in the 1940s. Today, it is the
second largest festival in Latin America.
The festival begins at the Qu’oricancha, the Inca temple of the sun which is now topped with the church of
Santo Domingo. In the plain beneath the temple, warriors and the queen’s handmaidens gather while the
Inca, his consort, and the priests pray at the great sun disc.
The Inca and his bride oversee the beginning of the ceremony, then are loaded into litters for a procession
through Cuzco and on to Sacsayhuaman. The role of the Inca and other key participants are highly
sought by the local tribes, and people work for hours to make elaborate costumes similar to traditional Inca
garb.
The procession slowly makes its way uphill and enters the central square of the fort. The Inca and the
priest mount a central dias, while the warriors and handmaidens gather around the square in colorful
geometric patterns.
The stages of the festival include prayers, a (fake) lllama sacrifice, and the lighting of the ritual fires. After
a celebratory dance, the Inca returns to this litter and is carried back to the city, followed by the rest of the
group.
All evening, local dance and music groups parade through the city in celebration.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
26
The Qu’oricancha and the disc of the sun, with
the church above.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
27
The central plaza of Cuzco, the Plaza de las
Armas, filled with a parade and spectators.
Note the rainbow flag of Cuzco on the right.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
28
In the plaza at Sacsayhuaman, the festival of Inti Raymi continues on a stage. There probably was an
altar somewhere at the site, though not in this area.
The Inca queen is seen in brown and white in the middle ground, surrounded by her handmaidens in
blue. People from the different regions of the Inca empire are in different colors in the four quadrants of
the plaza. The Inca is on the stage with priests and generals, conducting the ceremonies.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
29
The llama “sacrifice” has just concluded, and the warriors are removing the carcass to the storage site
below. Unfortunately, the llama refused to play dead and squirmed quite a lot on the way.
The high priest is the gentleman with the sun on his cloak.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
30
The Inca hails the crowd
as he is carried out of the
plaza after the ceremony.
His standard uses the
colors of the Cuzco flag.
Note that his bearers carry
quipu bags.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
31
After the potentates leave, several local dance troupes circle the plaza performing local dances and
piping. The costumes are specific to a valley in the highlands.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
32
Sacsayhuaman
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
Sacsayhuaman sits on the hills above Cuzco. Built of massive
stones, it is a fort and religious complex marking the source of the
river that flows through the city.
The stones used here are large are are carefully carved to fit
together. This is one of three kinds of stonework seen in Inca sites.
33
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
34
Fun Trekking Facts – Day One
Hours Hiking
3
Elevation (lowest to highest)
2500 - 2700 m
Distance
2.5 km
Campsite Elevation
2500 m
# granola bars* eaten
0
* Brought at great trouble and expense from the US
# chocolate bars* eaten
1
* Given away free in Peru
# cups Nescafe and mate de coca drunk
4
Most interesting thing on the trail
Lack of climbing
Most interesting campsite trivia
Has sauna
Overall happy hiker scale
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
35
Pisac, not far from Cuzco, is a fabulous site on a
hill over the Urubamba river. The stones are
smaller than at some other sites, set with
precision and artistry. It may have been as
astronomical observatory.
Pisac
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
36
Note the smaller, more rectangular and regular stonework here. These are also fitted together without
mortar, but are more brick-like than the large boulders generally associated with Inca architecture. This
is the second style of Inca stonework, which seems to have been used for important but non-religious
buildings. Note the slight inward incline of the walls, as seen at the corners, which provides stability.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
37
Salineras
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
The hills above the Urubamba river have
massive salt deposits. These have been mined
since the days of the Inca, and are still active.
38
Ollantaytambo is both a fortress and a temple.
The massive temple of the sun is unfinished,
with large stones left in a cleared section waiting
to be put in place. It is the best preserved Inca
site, and sits near the head of the Inca Trail.
Ollantaytambo
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
39
The entrance to the Temple of the Sun with several
niches to the side. Here we see the boulder-style
construction again, probably denoting a religious
site.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
A bath fed by a stream
40
The stones used in Inca buildings are carefully carved and sanded to fit perfectly without mortar. There
is a stone in Cuzco with 12 sides, the corners rounded and smoothed to fit into place with no gaps.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
41
This stone was left during construction in this interesting position. The meaning of the protrusions is
unknown. They might have been used for construction to hold ropes, or they might have been for some
other reason. Some of these protrusions have been left on the finished stones, some were removed.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
42
Our first campsite was pretty luxurious, though I’m not sure about the little tent-huts.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
43
A view of Salcantay from our first campsite in the early morning.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
44
Fun Trekking Facts – Day Two
Hours Hiking
10
Elevation (lowest to highest)
2500 - 3600 m
Distance
11 km
Campsite Elevation
3600 m
# granola bars* eaten
0
* Brought at great trouble and expense from the US
# chocolate bars* eaten
3
* Given away free in Peru
# cups Nescafe and mate de coca drunk
8
Most interesting thing on the trail
Puma
Most interesting campsite trivia
Far, high, dark
Overall happy hiker scale
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
45
Llactapata, a small farming community on the hill
near the river.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
The Urubamba river
46
Fun Trekking Facts – Day Three
Hours Hiking
4
Elevation (lowest to highest)
3600 - 4200 m
Distance
4 km
Campsite Elevation
3800 m
# granola bars* eaten
0
* Brought at great trouble and expense from the US
Fun Trekking Facts – Day Three
# chocolate bars* eaten
2
* Given away free in Peru
# cups Nescafe and mate de coca drunk
6
Most interesting thing on the trail
Waterfall
Most interesting campsite trivia
Highest campsite
Overall happy hiker scale
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
47
The trail as seen from the Abra Warmiwanusca
(the first and highest pass).
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
One of these would be very helpful on the climb.
48
Runkurukay
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
Runkurukay is a small fortress above the river, with a curious rounded
construction probably used for optimal viewing.
Note the third type of Inca stonework – piles of small stones held
together with mortar.
49
A campsite near a pond is very scenic, but careful where you step if you go out at night.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
50
Fun Trekking Facts – Day Four
Hours Hiking
6
Elevation (lowest to highest)
3600 - 4000 m
Distance
8 km
Campsite Elevation
3600 m
# granola bars* eaten
0
* Brought at great trouble and expense from the US
Fun Trekking Facts – Day Four
# chocolate bars* eaten
3
* Given away free in Peru
# cups Nescafe and mate de coca drunk
8
Most interesting thing on the trail
Tunnels, rain
Most interesting campsite trivia
Wet and at top of hill
Overall happy hiker scale
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
51
Important Travel Tip:
Cameras are not
waterproof
Nor is film
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
52
Fun Trekking Facts – Day Five
Hours Hiking
6
Elevation (lowest to highest)
2500 - 3700 m
Distance
11 km
HOTEL Elevation
2500 m
# granola bars* eaten
0
* Brought at great trouble and expense from the US
# chocolate bars* eaten
3
* Given away free in Peru
# cups Nescafe and mate de coca drunk
6
Most interesting thing on the trail
Machu Picchu
Most interesting HOTEL trivia
Has plumbing
Overall happy hiker scale
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
53
Phuyupatamarka (cloud-level town) is set
roughly 6 hours hike from Machu Picchu. It has
very unusual curved walls and a series of
stream-fed baths. Again, it uses the third type of
Inca stonework.
Phuyupatamarka
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
54
Intipata
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
Intipata is a fairly newly discovered site on a hill
several hours from Machu Picchu. It is not on
the beaten path, and is currently under
excavation.
55
Intipata has a classical
set of stepped fields
for agriculture, some
only a foot or two
wide.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
56
Wiñay Wayna
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
Wiñay Wayna is one of the most beautiful sites
on the trail. Built on a steep hill, the city has
intricate rooms and stairways and commanding
views of the valley below.
57
The residential section of the city is at the bottom
of the hill in a small quadrant with baths and small
rooms.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
58
Intipunku
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
Intipunku, the Gate of the Sun, sits along the trail
at the entrance to the valley where Machu
Picchu sits. From this point, you get your first
view of the city.
59
Machu Picchu is a small city on on a sliver on
land in a bend on the river. It was nominally
discovered in 1911 by Hiram Bingham. Many
theories exist about its use. Was it a sacred
city? A nunnery? A royal hunting lodge?
Machu Picchu
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
60
The residential section of the city uses the more casual stonework and has many windows for artisan’s
workshops.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
61
The Temple of the Moon has the more carefully fitted form of stonework, with trapezoidal windows.
Note the altar in the background.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
62
Along the side of the slope are extensive steppes and small storehouses or residences.
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
63
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
64
Thank you!
For more photos and possibly some information, visit:
http://travel.portnoy.org/
“Serving vacation photos and commentary since 1998”
A division of Fly-by-Night Industries
La Ruta Maya and the Inca Trail_4 Oct 02
65