Transcript FocusEV - Simon Family Home Page

FocusEV
Conversion of a
Gasoline Powered Automobile to a
Battery Powered Electric Vehicle
Chris Simon
7/20/2015
Page 1
All of the energy that we use ultimately comes from the Sun. The electricity that powers
the screen that you are viewing. The energy your body is using at this moment to read and
think and breath. The energy that transported you to wherever you are right now.
Much of that energy was locked away in fossil fuels (petroleum, or coal) long ago.
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Fossil Fuel Timeline
Millions
of Years
Millions
of Years
<200
years
Time
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Oil formation took millions of years
The human race will completely consume it in hundreds of years
The fossil-fuel dependent society is unsustainable
The cost of fuel will increase dramatically as we get nearer to the
end of the supply.
Page 3
Fossil Fuel Timeline
• (Need to find a chart from a known reputable source)
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Considerations for an EV Conversion
What “donor car”?
How many batteries?
What type of motor?
What type of battery charger?
What type of batteries?
How do I keep warm?
What electronic controller should I use?
What high voltage contactor is available?
What special instrumentation do I need?
Before answering these you really need to ask:
What are my goals for an electric vehicle?
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Considerations for an EV Conversion
Here are the goals that I wrote down for an Electric Vehicle:
(in somewhat priority order)
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Range that allows for my daily commute (Greater than 35 miles at 40 MPH, even in winter)
Use of an American donor car
A donor car with a manual transmission
Maximize the life of the batteries, which is the largest ongoing expense with an EV.
Ease of use (A vehicle that anyone can drive, with self-management of battery charging)
All components extendable to higher range and performance when better batteries become
available)
Parts that are "Made in USA" where possible (Easier to deal with the suppliers if there's a
problem.)
A design that prioritizes higher range over faster acceleration.
Quiet operation
Keep the weight down – stay close to the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating)
Top speed of at least 65 MPH
Minimize initial cost of battery pack
Total conversion project cost less than $10,000 (not counting donor car)
Include heater and defroster for comfort through the Minnesota winter.
Flexible battery layout (not size specific) to allow an upgrade at a later date.
Suspension modified to compensate for additional weight of the batteries.
Brakes must operate as before conversion using a vacuum pump.
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My Choices
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Donor car - 2001 Ford Focus SE
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Motor - 9 inch diameter series-wound brushed DC motor (143 lbs.)
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Planning to add a uprocessor battery monitor system with dashboard-mounted display (VFD)
DC/DC Converter
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Quiet (Relatively)
Designed specifically for use in EVs
Electric Power Steering Pump – TBD
Instrumentation – Voltmeter (180 VDC) and Ammeter (500 ADC)
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Low cost ($1400) - High reliability (if properly cooled)
Electric Power Brake Vacuum Pump - MES-DEA 70/6E (with integral vacuum switch)
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Wet cell Golf Cart batteries have long life for deep cycles (compared AGM or Gel batteries)
Higher voltage (8V vs. 6V batteries) means higher top speed
Low cost ($1800) because I was told “Everyone murders their first pack”
The downside is WEIGHT (1,080 lbs of lead!)
Controller - Curtis 144V PWM controller with heatsink and fans
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Low cost ($1550) - Widely used in on-the-road EVs - High reliability
Batteries - 17 series 8V wet cell lead acid batteries (Golf cart)
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American made - Car and Driver’s “10 Best” multiple years
Lightweight for efficiency, but reasonably high GVWR (to carry the weight of the batteries)
IOTA - 55 Ampere power supply – modified with inrush current limiter and power-on relay
Page 7
Removal and Installation
Removed
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Internal Combustion Engine (ICE)
Alternator
Gas tank
Fuel pump
Fuel filler tube
Power steering pump
Power steering hoses and cooler
Exhaust pipe and muffler
Catalytic converter
Radiator
Coolant hoses and reservoir
Air conditioning compressor
Air conditioning condenser
Liquid heater core
Floor of the trunk
Rear springs
Dashboard “idiot lights”
Installed
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Electric motor with adapter
4 battery racks
Insulation in 4 battery racks
Heaters in 4 battery racks
17 batteries
High-power cables
High-power circuit breaker
Motor Controller
PotBox (connected to accelerator)
High-Voltage contactors
Control relays
Vacuum Pump
DC/DC converter
Electric heater element
Heavy duty rear springs
Ammeter and Voltmeter
Lots of wiring
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The Internal Combustion Engine (ICE) Comes Out
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Adapter Design
Mating face of the transaxle
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Flywheel Hub Design
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Page 11
The Electric Motor Goes In
Aligning the motor to the
already installed transaxle
Dial Indicator to check
flywheel hub alignment and
runout
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Battery Layout
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What are the guidelines for adding 1,080 lbs of lead batteries?
1.
2.
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Keep them out of the passenger compartment
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They are filled with acid and vent hydrogen at the end of charging
Keep them low and near the center of the car
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Low center of gravity for better handling
My car is a compromise based on where they’ll fit and the structure that can
support the weight
Front and mid
battery racks
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Rear battery rack
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Before and After
Contactors
and relays
Batteries
Electronic
Controller
Electric
Motor
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Battery Connections
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Batteries are connected in series with 00 gauge stranded copper cable
Use automotive style lead battery posts with copper terminals for low resistance connections
Keep the wiring short for lower resistive losses (and lower cost!)
Minimize the loop area of the current (up to 500A pulse width modulated at 15 KHz)
Circuit breaker in the middle of the pack – emergency shut-off accessible by the driver
Charger 1 (72V)
Batteries 1- 9
USB 8V
6
13
USB 8V
12
USB 8V
16
USB 8V
17
Control
Box
CB
USB 8V
15
USB 8V
11
USB 8V
10
4
1
USB 8V
USB 8V
2
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5
9
USB 8V
USB 8V
USB 8V
USB 8V
USB 8V
USB 8V
USB 8V
14
USB 8V
7
8
3
Charger 2 (64V)
Batteries 10- 17
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Battery Heaters
While charging 110 VAC heating elements are
plugged in. There are thermostats for each set of
batteries. It took me three tries to get it right.
• Attempt 1 – Bad smells and discolored fiberglass
• Attempt 2 – Another EV converter burned up his
heater strips and melted through his batteries
• Attempt 3 – Success! Gently warming the batteries
using an aluminum heat-spreader
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Page 16
Wiring (Simplified)
100
50W
SECONDARY
S
VBB = 136 VDC Nominal
BusBar
Front BBox
14-17
BusBar
T10
1231C Controller
BM-
Mid BBox
12-13
B+
BusBar
CUTOFF CB
MAIN
M
Rear BBox
1-11
BusBar
S1
A1
S2
A2
T10
Motor
B+
M-
From PotBox
Accel
Pedal
PWM
Ctrl
PotBox
NC
NO
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“Pedal Hot” LED
A
Circuit
Board
Pre-Charge
Detect (TBD)
V
T10
To
Heater
Switch
Relay
LATCH
100
50W
F4
T10
SECONDARY
S
B
Front BBox
14-17
BusBar
BusBar
T10
Shunt
F5
F6
F9
F10
T8
1231C Controller
F1
T1
Mid BBox
12-13
22 uF
HEATER
BM-
F3
B+
A2
T4
F7
DC/DC
CUTOFF CB
Heater
F2
M
F8
MAIN
M
Rear BBox
1-11
BusBar
T5
5
Interior
Pre-Heater
GR/OG
12V RUN
INERTIA SW
22 uF
AC POWER
Interlock
Relays
A1
S2
A2
T10
BRAKES
1
2
T10
From AC Relays
Open (Gnd = AC Present)
S1
ACCEL
LATCH
T10
Timer
Shunt
BusBar
T10
T2
NEUTRAL
3
3.3K
CLUTCH
4
MTR OT
T7
REVERSE
6
8
T10
From Brake Switch (C824-1)
12V (Open = Brake Depressed)
From Neutral Switch (Not Available - left open)
Open (Gnd = In Neutral)
Heater
AC
Charger
AC
From Clutch Switch (C825-3)
Gnd (Open = Clutch Pressed)
Timeline for normal operation
Key ON
MAIN on, Pre-charge, DC/DC on
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From Motor OverTemp
Gnd (Open = Overheated)
Caps charged
PH LED on
Accel
Pedal
PotBox
NC
To OverTemp Light
NO
From Reverse Switch (C95-16)
Open (12V = Reverse)
Pedal depressed
Pedal released Brake depressed
KSI on, ACCEL Latch on, SECOND on
ACCEL Latch off, KSI off, SECOND
off
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Wiring as Implemented
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EV Control
MAIN contactor = Key on & Inertia Switch OK & No AC POWER
SECONDARY contactor = MAIN cont & No BRAKES & No CLUTCH & ACCEL Latch
• AC POWER relay path will be closed when neither the chargers or the heaters are
connected to AC power.
• BRAKES relay path will be closed when the brake pedal is not depressed.
• CLUTCH relay path will be closed when the clutch pedal is not depressed.
• Purpose of ACCEL Latch relay: Prevent the SECONDARY contactor from opening and
closing with the ACCEL pedal (when coasting, for example.) Instead it will close when
the ACCEL pedal is first pressed and open when the BRAKES or CLUTCH are applied.
Bat Pack = 17 x 4 cells = 68 cells (136 VDC)
• Depleted Bat Pack Voltage (0% SoC) =
• Minimum Bat Pack Voltage (40% SoC) =
• Maximum Bat Pack Voltage (100% SoC) =
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68 x 1.91 V = 130 VDC
68 x 1.99 V = 135 VDC
68 x 2.12 V = 144 VDC
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FocusEV Parts List (1 of 2)
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FocusEV Parts List (2 of 2)
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Driving an EV
• Lots of torque when starting from a stop (at the expense
of large current draw from the batteries)
– Torque falls off as RPMs increase – the opposite of a modern small engine
• The motor stops spinning when you release the accelerator
pedal – no wasted energy in stop-and-go traffic
• Range is affected very much by driving style, as compared to
an ICE powered car
Avoid prolonged time on freeways (air resistance is proportional to velocity2)
Avoid quick starts
Anticipate stoplights and traffic slowing to avoid braking
Keep the motor RPMs in the most efficient range (~4000 RPM for a serieswound DC electric motor)
– These are all basic “hypermiling” techniques
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How Some People Drive an EV
• Acceleration in an EV is less than with an ICE
– Unless your required range is ¼ mile
http://www.plasmaboyracing.com/videos.php
• Electric 1972 Datsun 1200 vs 2005 Corvette
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FocusEV First Drive
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcNZ5QoW7Yk
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Cost for Energy
Internal Combustion Engine vs. Electric Vehicle
ICE Powered Car
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1 gallon of gas has approximately 36
KW-Hr of energy
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The energy that goes to moving a car
down the road is about 20% (~80% is
lost as heat)
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For a car that gets 25 MPG and
gasoline at $2.00 per gallon, fuel cost
is
$2.00/25 = $0.08 per mile
FocusEV
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The FocusEV battery pack has
approximately 23 KW-Hr of energy,
with about 12.5 KW-Hr usable
(before degrading batteries)
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That’s ~1/3 of a gallon of gas!
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The energy that goes to moving a car
down the road is about 80% (~20% is
lost as heat)
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For a car that uses 400 Wh per mile
and electricity at $0.10 per KW-Hr,
fuel cost is
0.4 x $0.10 = $0.04 per mile
400 Wh/mile is energy equivalent to ~90 MPG
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Greenhouse Gasses
Internal Combustion Engine vs. Electric Vehicle
ICE Powered Car
FocusEV
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19.5 lbs of CO2 for every gallon of gas
consumed in an ICE
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1.4 lbs*of CO2 for every kW-hr of
electricity generated in the US
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Assume 800 miles per month at 25
MPG (32 gallons)
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Assume 800 miles per month at 400
W-hr/mile (320 KW-Hr)
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CO2 released into the atmosphere:
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CO2 released into the atmosphere:
19.5 lbs/gallon x 32 gallons
1.4 lbs/kW-Hr x 320 kW-Hr
= 624 lbs CO2 per month
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Additional CO2 is released in the
extraction and refinement of crude
oil
– CO2 per gallon is increasing as oil
is recovered from undesirable
sources such as oil sands
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= 448 lbs CO2 per month
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This will improve as we generate
more electricity from solar, wind, and
geothermal sources.
* U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
estimate, November, 2004
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Considerations for an EV Conversion
Were the goals met?
1 -> 10
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6->9
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Range that allows for my daily commute (Greater than 35 miles at 40 MPH, even in winter)
Use of an American donor car
A donor car with a manual transmission
Maximize the life of the batteries, which is the largest ongoing expense with an EV.
Ease of use (A vehicle that anyone can drive, with self-management of battery charging)
All components extendable to higher range and performance when better batteries become
available)
Parts that are "Made in USA" where possible (Easier to deal with the suppliers if there's a
problem.)
A design that prioritizes higher range over faster acceleration.
Quiet operation
Keep the weight down – stay close to the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating)
Top speed of at least 65 MPH
Minimize initial cost of battery pack
Total conversion project cost less than $10,000 (not counting donor car)
Include heater and defroster for comfort through the Minnesota winter.
Flexible battery layout (not size specific) to allow an upgrade at a later date.
Suspension modified to compensate for additional weight of the batteries.
Brakes must operate as before conversion using a quiet vacuum pump.
Page 28
FocusEV vs. “the Competition”
Which car would you drive for your daily commute?
Tesla Roadster
Zenn
NEV
FocusEV
Home-built
Drive Motor
185 KW AC Induction
5.7 KW 3-phase AC
50 KW Series Wound DC
Battery Pack
53 KW-Hr Li-Ion
375V
5 KW-Hr Lead-Acid
72V - Gel
12.5 KW-Hr Lead-Acid
136V – Wet Cell
125 MPH
25 MPH
70 MPH
3.9 seconds (0 to 60)
Never (0 to 60)
~22 seconds (0 to 60)
Range
220 miles
35 miles
35 miles
Seats
2
2
5
Top Speed
Acceleration
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Tesla
Zenn
http://www.teslamotors.com/performance/tech_specs.php
http://www.zenncarsabq.com/pdf/zenn_2008specs.pdf
Page 29
FocusEV vs. “the Competition”
Which car would you drive for your daily commute?
Tesla Roadster
Zenn
NEV
FocusEV
Home-built
Drive Motor
185 KW AC Induction
5.7 KW 3-phase AC
50 KW Series Wound DC
Battery Pack
53 KW-Hr Li-Ion
375V
5 KW-Hr Lead-Acid
72V - Gel
12.5 KW-Hr Lead-Acid
136V – Wet Cell
125 MPH
25 MPH
70 MPH
3.9 seconds (0 to 60)
Never (0 to 60)
~22 seconds (0 to 60)
Range
220 miles
35 miles
35 miles
Seats
2
2
5
Cost
$109,000
$15,995
~ $16,000
None
None
You don’t want to know
Top Speed
Acceleration
Hours of labor
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Tesla
Zenn
http://www.teslamotors.com/performance/tech_specs.php
http://www.zenncarsabq.com/pdf/zenn_2008specs.pdf
Page 30
Resources
• The FocusEV Website (includes FAQs)
http://www.simonfamily.us/FocusEV
• The Electric Auto Association (with links to local
chapters) http://www.eaaev.org
• The EV Album – over 2,000 examples of vehicle
conversions (skateboards, bikes, Porches, a Delorean, a
Land Rover, etc.) http://www.evalbum.com/
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