Transcript QSC1850HD - Здоровый образ жизни и

How To Build A
QSC1850HD
Coil Device
1
This presentation is designed to help individuals construct what’s
referred to as a QSC1850HD coil device. The makers of this
presentation are not medical practitioners and do not endorse the
use of this device for medical purposes nor do they make any
claims. The QSC1850HD coil device is an experimental piece of
electronic equipment. The sole responsibility for the end use of a
QSC1850HD coil device rests solely with the individual who builds
it. The information presented in this PowerPoint presentation is
not copyrighted and may be reproduced by anyone free of charge.
Let me begin by saying that there are far more electronic literate
individuals than myself. So why am I the one creating this
program? Simply because I am NOT an electronic literate
individual. I know a few basics, but even now, after building my
own coil device, I still don’t know the whys and wherefores of a lot
of this device. All I know is that it appeared to be an impossible
task for me to complete, and yet with the help of some very
knowledgeable individuals, I was able to be successful.
My intent is to put together a simple plan with all the information
in a single place, so that anyone with the will to build one of these
devices can. May God bless you as you move forward with your
project.
2
Just what exactly is a
QSC1850HD “Coil”
device?
A QSC1850HD “Coil” device is an experimental
machine that uses an amplifier and a capacitor bank in
series to create an AC (alternating current) EM (electromagnetic) field which can be tuned to a given
frequency.
3
Completed QSC1850HD
“Coil” device in a cabinet.
Frequency Generator
Multi-Meter
QSC1850HD Amplifier
Capacitor Array Switches
4
If you are going to build a QSC1850HD coil device, the first thing you need
to decide is how you want to house it. I decided to put mine in a cabinet.
I chose this method because my wife and I don’t have a room we can
dedicate to a large amount of wires, and equipment. I needed a way to
store all of the equipment that would look good, even if the cabinet had to
sit in our living room.
Using a cabinet is not the only way to house a coil device. But let me
show you what I did. If you don’t have the tools to build the cabinet, but
you do have a room to dedicate to your coil device, simply skip this
section.
I started by purchasing a 4’ x 8’ piece of ¼ inch Luan plywood from a
lumber company. I then used a table saw, (a simple skill saw would
suffice) to cut it into the sizes I wanted. My cabinet is 16” deep, 24” wide,
and 36” high. My cabinet does not have a back on it.
I made two pieces 16” wide by 36” long for each side, and one front panel
24” wide by 36” long. I used a 1” x 4” pine board to strengthen the
cabinet. I also used a ¾” piece of plywood (particle board would work
too) for the floor of the cabinet. The piece of plywood in the bottom is
more for strengthening the cabinet in general. Nothing heavy actually
5
rests on the lower part of the cabinet.
Picture of My Cabinet
16” x 36”
24” x 36”
Side panel
Front panel
I cut the
plywood with
45 degree
angles to
make a flush
corner. This
is not
necessary.
Edges may
be butted up
together.
6
Bottom shelf of ¾” plywood or particle
board.
These terminal boards will later be
referred to as the “terminal wire.”
The terminal wire is basically where
all capacitors connect to a single wire
that goes from there to the coil.
Casters
to move
cabinet
easily.
7
Bracing on top of cabinet. I used liquid nails
and finish nails through the ¼” Luan plywood.
Screws would work as well and would be even
stronger. To finish the cabinet, I will put a top
on it made of another piece of ¼” plywood.
8
Where the pieces of
plywood came
together, I used
small strips of ¾” x
¾” pine. I ripped
these on a table saw
from the 1” x 4”s.
You would not need
to rip down the pine.
You could use the
wood as a 1” x 4”. In
fact that would make
the cabinet even
stronger.
9
After I nailed and glued the basic cabinet
together, I turned it on its back and marked
out where I needed to cut a hole for the
QSC1850HD amplifier. You will notice in the
next picture that the amp is spaced out away
from the cabinet with two pieces of wood, one
on each side.
I did this because the QSC1850HD amp is
apparently made to be recessed into an audio
cabinet of some kind. I didn’t want my amp
sunken into my cabinet, so I purchased a
small wooden decoupage plaque for 99 cents
from a craft store and cut it in half. It was ¾”
thick and brought the amp out just enough to
make it fit well.
10
Cut hole for QSC1850HD 3 ½” wide by 17 ½” long.
Decoupage plaque
11
Measure how far the bottom of the hole in the
front of the cabinet is from the floor of the
cabinet and then nail or screw a 1” x 4” pine
board across the back for the amp to rest on.
I screwed a small
block of wood between
the wall of the cabinet
and the amp to keep it
from moving as well. 12
The QSC 1850HD amplifier is a new generation
amplifier with rugged design. The founder of
our QSC 1850HD Yahoo group visited the QSC
factory and talked to the man who designed
this amp. In parallel mode, this amp works
great. I purchased mine on eBay. They are
also available new with factory warranties
from several on-line electronics companies for
around $500.00.
13
The next thing I did was to cut out for my multi-meter. I chose to
purchase a bench model Fluke 8012A. I did so because it was a true
RMS multi-meter and it was cheap on eBay. I understand that true
RMS is not all that important, but it is better to have it than not to
have it in my opinion.
Another option for a multi-meter is to purchase a hand held model.
The one I would have purchased had I not found my Fluke 8012A was
the Wavetek Meterman 37XR. I was told by a Fluke representative
that Meterman test equipment is owned by Fluke and is their “lower
end” testing equipment.
I like this meter because it is true RMS and can measure inductance.
Later on when you build your coil, you will need to measure its
inductance. I purchased an LC meter which measures inductance and
capacitance for around $42.00 from a company on line. The bottom
line is purchase what best suites your needs. With a meter that
measures inductance all you will need to do is touch each end of the
coil lead with your meter’s leads and you will know your coil’s
inductance. It’s VERY simple to use.
If you don’t want to purchase an inductance meter, you can
determine your coil’s inductance by using your capacitors when your
device is finished. The next few pages will tell you how to do that.
14
This picture shows how to measure a coil’s inductance in Millihenries
(mH) with an L/C meter. An L/C meter is a meter that measures
inductance where L stands for inductance measured in millihenries (mH),
and C stands for capacitance measured in microfarads (uf). If you
purchase the Wavetek Meterman Test Tool 37XR, it will measure
inductance like what is shown here by simply putting the dial on mH and
connecting the two leads. To get a more accurate measurement, you can
follow the steps listed on the next slide.
7.84 mH coil
LC Meter
Set to 20 mH
range.
Meter
connected to
one lead of
coil.
Meter
connected to
other lead of
coil.
12 gauge
speaker wire.
15
To find your coil’s inductance in mH (millihenries) using your
capacitor array, begin by flipping on your 16uf capacitor switch.
Now set your frequency generator so it puts out a 435Hz signal. This
frequency should be close to a resonance frequency for a coil
between 7 and 8.5 mH with a capacitance (uf) of 16uf.
The next step is to turn up the amplitude (volume) control so the
amplifier’s yellow lights come on. Your gain knobs should already be
turned all the way to maximum when you do this. The yellow lights
tell you that you are now pushing an audio signal through your coil.
Turn the amplitude (volume) up until you get a reading on your
multi-meter (assuming it is already connected across one set of
resistors as show in the next slide) that is around 0.30.
An exact reading of 0.30 is not important. You just need to get the
power up a little so you can get a more accurate reading with the
next step. It could be 0.26, or 0.35. Just get it up in that range.
Once you have a reading on your multi-meter begin changing the
frequency. Start by increasing the signal to around 440hz. Check to
see if your multi-meter reading went up from 0.30 to let’s say 0.32.
If it does go up, then you need to continue increasing the frequency
until you get the highest reading you can. If the multi-meter reading
goes down, then decrease your signal to about 425Hz. Basically
what you want to do is find out what frequency in Hertz will give you
the greatest value reading on your multi-meter. That reading is then
referred to as your peak value.
16
This diagram shows where you will connect
your voltage meter to read the current.
Resistors
Voltage
Meter
1 ohm 25w
Output
1 ohm 25w
Channel
1 of amp
1 ohm 25w
1 ohm 25w
1 ohm 25w
To
Capacitor
array.
1 ohm 25w
Output
1 ohm 25w
Channel
2 of amp
1 ohm 25w
1 ohm 25w
1 ohm 25w
17
Keep playing with the frequency until you obtain the peak value
on your multi-meter. The peak value is where the reading on
your multi-meter is the biggest number. When it peaks, you
know you have reached the optimum frequency for a 16uf
capacitor. The goal here is to tune your frequency by increasing
or decreasing from your starting point of 435Hz until you get the
biggest number on your multi-meter.
Now what you need to do is take the frequency your signal
generator was putting out when you got your peak value reading
and enter that value into the calculator program found on this CD
under dougproju.exe.
With any two of the three values, you can find the third value.
With Hz and uf you can find mH. With mH and Hz, you can find
uf. And with mH and uf you can find Hz.
Enter 16.000 in the capacitance box in the calculator section,
followed by entering the frequency you were sending out when
you got your greatest value on the multi-meter in the frequency
box. After entering those two values, click on the inductance
button and a value in mH will appear in the third box.
This value is your “real world” inductance of your coil.
18
Below is how the calculator in the dougproju.exe file will look if you
happened to reach a peak when your frequency was at 443Hz.
Should this be the case, you would have entered 443 in the
frequency box, followed by 16.000 in the capacitance box. Then
when you clicked on the millihenries box, the calculator will have
automatically calculated your coil’s inductance as 8.067015 as
shown below.
In this scenario, the capacitance is a constant amount fixed at 16uf.
As you played around with the frequency beginning at 435Hz, you
found the frequency that created a peak on your multi-meter and
entered that value in the frequency box. In the end, these two
values calculated your coil’s inductance value in millihenries in the
inductance box as shown here. Record your coil’s inductance for
later use. From now on, you will enter your inductance in
millihenries, then you will enter the frequency you want to run in the
frequency box, and click on the capacitance box to see what
capacitors to turn on to run that frequency.
8.067015
mH
16.000
uf
443
Hz
19
There is an on line
frequency/inductance/capacitance calculator
you can use at the following web site:
http://www.multibox.com/cfl.htm
The only difference is that you will need to
enter inductance in henries. You will need to
convert your millihenries calculation to
henries. It is very simple to do. Simply move
the decimal three places to the left. An
example would be, 7.79 mH is the same as
0.00779 henries.
It takes 1000 millihenries to make up one
henry.
20
The calculator that is referred to here can be found in the
files section of the Yahoo group listed below, or if you are
viewing this PowerPoint presentation on CD all you need
to do is minimize or close this presentation and open the
dougproju.exe file also on this CD.
http://health.groups.yahoo.com/group/qsc1850hd/
From the web, go to dougproju.CAB and download this file
to your desktop. Then un-zip it and save it on your hard
drive. Use this icon to open the program.
All the other files support this one. When you click on
calculator you will get three white boxes at the top of the
page.
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1. Enter coil inductance as millihenries (mH)
2. Enter capacitance as microfarads (uf)
3. Enter frequency as hertz (Hz)
Try this example to get the hang of using the calculator
program. Enter 7.79 mH in the first box.
Enter 484 Hz in the third box.
Now click on “capacitance” under the second white box.
You should get a reading of,
13.8807226903737
Your final result should look like this:
13.880722690373
7.79
mH
uf
484
Hz
You will only need to use the capacitance value to two or
three place values. (13.880)
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Wavetek Meterman Test Tools 37XR
Features:
•Inductance to 40 H, frequency to 40 MHz, capacitance to
400 µF, logic to 20 MHz
•Input warning tone when test leads are in wrong jack
•10,000 count, 0.1 % accuracy
•1000 V/750 V dc/ac True RMS
•10 Amps ac/dc, fully safety fused
•Resistance to 40 MΩ
•Continuity beeper
•Min/Max, Average, Relative, Peak, and Data Hold
•Auto power off to save battery life
•Separate door for easy battery and fuse access
•Magne-Grip™ Holster with magnetic hanging strap
•CAT III 600 V, CAT II 1000 rated
•UL (CULUS) listed
•Three-year warranty
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Technical Specifications
L/C Ranges:
2nF, 20nF, 200nF, 2µF, 20µF, 200µF, 2mH, 20mH, 200mH,
2H
Basic Accuracy:
L: ±1.5% (<0.5µF)
±2.0% (>0.5µF)
C: ±2.0% (<0.5µH)
±5.0% (>0.5µH)
Dimensions: 86mm x 180mm x 38mm
Battery: Standard 9V
CSI6243 Digital
Capacitance
and Inductance
Tester
The CSI6243 Digital Capacitance and Inductance Tester features
a large 3.5 digit LCD display and 10 total ranges (6 ranges for
capacitors and 4 ranges for inductors). Also supplied with OSHA
yellow rubber holster and safety design test leads. Highly
accurate with Auto-Zero adjust and overload indication. A very
handy piece of test equipment for general trouble shooting and
component testing.
Features
•3-1/2 digit, 21mm LCD with a max reading of 1999
•6 capacitor ranges/up to 200µF
•4 inductive ranges/up to 2H
•Auto zero-adjustment, high accuracy
•Overload indication feature
24
The next hole I cut was for my frequency generator.
You have two choices here. You can either purchase a
bench model frequency/signal generator or use a free
computer program.
If you want to use your PC, there are several programs
available on the Internet. One good frequency
generator program is called the fg_lite. You can
download it free from the following site, or simply
minimize this presentation and open the fg_lite.exe file
found on this CD:
http://www.marchandelec.com/fg.html
I chose to purchase a bench model signal generator so
I could have my entire device in one place, and so I
wouldn’t have to use it near my desk top computer
which is in another bedroom. I do not have a laptop. I
ended up purchasing a cheap off brand frequency
generator on eBay.
25
If you want a bench model frequency
generator and cost is not an issue, the Ramsey
SG 550 is said to be pretty good. It is more
expensive than using your PC, but it is one of
the cheapest bench models I have found. You
can purchase a Ramsey SG550 from the
following web-site.
http://www.ramseyelectronics.com/cgibin/commerce.exe?preadd=action&key=SG550
This unit can be purchased pre-assembled or
as a do-it-yourself kit.
Ramsey SG
550Frequency
Generator
26
Once you have decided on what type of
equipment to purchase, you will need to
purchase your capacitors. For capacitors, I used
Allied Electronics. Their web site is:
http://www.alliedelec.com/
The following page has the list of capacitors and
their corresponding part numbers should you
decide to purchase them from Allied Electronics.
Capacitor array inside
my cabinet. Notice
the shelf where the
top level of capacitors
rest. This keeps them
from touching each
other.
27
You are going to have about 16 switches when you are done.
As you saw my machine has 20. That’s so I can add more
later if I need to. But you only need 16 to start with.
I chose to write the exact capacitance above my switches.
You can designate your switches with letters like, A, B, C, etc.
if you wish. You just need some way to designate which
switches you need to flip for each frequency you use.
For this illustration, I will use A, B, C, etc. Then I will give
you the exact capacitance value each switch will have. The
information in the parenthesis is what it takes to make the
exact capacitance shown after each example.
The reason for this is that you cannot purchase some
capacitors in the range you need, so, you have to build them
yourself. This is done by connecting two or more capacitors
together in either series or parallel, and sometimes both ways
to get the exact capacitance value you want.
More on capacitors in series and parallel later. The (uf) after
the number stands for microfarads. A microfarad is the unit
measurement or value of a capacitor.
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A – No capacitor used on switch one.
B – 30uf
(1 30uf part #225-5010)
C –16uf*
(2-8uf in parallel #591-7045)
D – 8uf*
(1-8uf part #591-7045)
E – 4uf*
(1-4uf part #591-7025)
F – 2uf
(2-4uf in series part #591-4205)
G – 1uf
(3-3uf in series part #591-4200)
H – 0.5uf
(2-1uf in series part #591-6085)
I – 0.25uf (2-0.47uf in series part #591-6075
with 1-0.015uf in parallel part
#591-6150)
Capacitor values with an * next to them are a newer design than
what is illustrated on the dougproju.exe file. The pictures in the
dougproju file will not match the capacitors listed here. These new
29
ones are a can design with clips on top to connect to.
J – 0.122uf
(1-0.1uf in parallel part #
591-6175 with 1-0.022uf part
#591-6155)
K – 0.062uf
(1-0.047uf in parallel part
#591-6165 with 1-0.015uf
part #591-6150)
L – 0.033uf
(1-0.033uf part #591-6160)
M – 0.015uf
(1-0.015uf part #591-6150)
N – 0.01uf (1-0.01uf part #591-6145)
O – 0.0075uf
(2-0.015uf in series part
#591-6150)
P – 0.005uf
(2-0.01uf in series part
#591-6145)
30
Total Allied Electronics Parts List
1 - #225-5010
3 - #591-7045
1 - #591-7025
2 – #591-4205
3 - #591-4200
2 - #591-6085
2 - #591-6075
1 - #591-6175
1 - #591-6165
1 - #591-6160
1 - #591-6155
5 - #591-6150
3 - #591-6145
26 Total capacitors needed to make your capacitor array.
31
Below is a diagram for the new 16uf capacitor
configuration. For the 8uf and 4uf capacitors simply
connect one terminal to the switch and the other
terminal to the terminal wire leading to the coil.
16uf
Capacitor
Configuration
From switch
To
terminal
wire and
on to coil.
AC can capacitors wired in
parallel below. AC capacitors
are non-polarized and don't
have + and - markings.
+ and – terminals shown for
illustration purposes only.
Negative
terminals
8uf
8uf
Top of
cans
Positive terminals
To Coil
From switch
32
How to hook up the
4uf, 8uf, & 30uf can capacitors.
4uf, 8uf, &
30uf can
capacitors
From switch
To
terminal
wire and
on to coil.
Top of can
AC capacitors are nonpolarized and don't have
+ and - markings.
+ and – terminals shown
for illustration purposes
only.
33
Soldering Tips
Soldering is not difficult to learn. Keep these points in mind
Dirty corroded leads and terminals won’t allow the solder to flow and
stick. Since you are ordering new parts, this should not be a problem,
but if any leads, terminals or wires look tarnished, rub them with a
little steel wool or fine sandpaper etc. until clean.
Make good physical connections before soldering. Simply laying one
wire against another and soldering them is inadequate. Wrap wires
and squeeze tight with pliers for heavier ones.
The soldering iron must be hot enough to heat the joint you are
working on- preferably pretty rapidly. A small “pencil” iron may not
be hot enough for heavy wire or thick joints. A soldering “station” or
“gun” type of iron should be plenty adequate. Soldering "gun" type
irons are relatively cheap and handy for the homeowner/hobbyist.
On a new iron, melt a little solder onto the hot new tip and wipe with
a wet piece of sponge until it appears covered in solder and shiny.
Use this sponge to wipe the tip clean frequently during soldering,
preferably between soldering each joint.
34
Heat the joint and melt the solder into the hot joint with the iron still
in place. Don’t melt the solder onto the iron. Melt it onto the joint.
Don’t move the joint as it is solidifying. As soon as it’s solid, you can
wiggle test it. With good modern rosin core solder, it should cool to
be shiny looking. If it is dull gray or grainy looking, it probably was
moved while cooling. Just re-melt it and cool without moving.
Use 60/40 Rosin Core solder. Fine gauge solder is easier to use than
thick solder, but either is ok. Rosin Core solder is non corrosive and
the rosin serves as a flux so no other flux is needed.
Don’t over heat the components that you are soldering. Heat the
joint just long enough to melt the solder easily, completely, and
rapidly- then get out. A sensible precaution is to clip an alligator clip
or other heat sink to the lead of the component to draw the heat
away, but this is not necessary on the capacitor array if only the
necessary heat and time are used and no more. Extra caution should
be used when the capacitor leads are very short, as when soldering
two capacitors together in series.
35
Learn to see when the solder is flowed well. When the joint is hot
enough, the solder will spread rapidly and flatten out. As soon as this
happens and there is enough solder in the joint, pull out and let it
cool for 5 seconds or so. Use just enough solder to cover the area
and fill the gaps in slightly. Any more will just ball up and, if enough
is added, drop off.
Solder in a well ventilated area, preferably with a fan, and wash your
hands when done since the solder contains lead.
Gently wiggle check your joint when done. If the joint moves or is
dull appearing, simply re-solder.
You will not need to solder all of your capacitors since several of
them are can capacitors. For the can capacitors however, you will
need slip on clips to connect to the capacitor leads. You can purchase
crimp on clips. This is what I purchased, but I also soldered the
connections for extra safety. I did not want any leads coming off
from the capacitors.
The next slide will show how to solder one of the special capacitors
where you first solder two capacitors in series and then in parallel
with another capacitor.
36
The 0.25uf capacitor is a little tricky because you
first have to solder two 0.47uf capacitors in series
or end to end and then connect another 0.015uf in
parallel or side by side with the one you just
soldered. Because of the short leads coming out
of the capacitors, it will end up looking like a
triangle.
0.47
0.47
0.015
This will give you a capacitor with a
capacitance value of 0.25uf.
37
Switches
When it comes to the switches needed to turn on or off
your different capacitors, you will need to decide what you
want to do. You basically have two choices. Household
switches like you have in your home or toggle switches
like I used on my device.
I went with the toggle switches mostly because I wanted a
clean looking device. The household switches which are
one third to one fourth the price of a toggle switch simply
need 12 gauge solid wire pushed into their holes to wire
them up.
The next three slides show pictures of capacitor arrays
built in boxes. The first box shows toggle switches. The
two following that use household switches. Notice how
the black wires jump from switch to switch.
38
Here is a front view of the capacitor toggle
switches. The last two on the bottom right
are for future capacitors should the need
arise. Each switch is marked with its
capacitance value such as 0.122uf.
39
Capacitor array using household switches.
Front view
40
Capacitor array using household switches, back view.
Hot wire
from amp
must
connect to
one side of
every
switch. (1)
30uf Can
capacitor
After
connecting
hot wire
from amp
to one lead
of each
switch,
See (1)
Connect
capacitors
to the other
lead of
each
switch.
Terminal
wire
which
goes to
coil.
You need one
switch with no
capacitor.
Empty switches for
future capacitors.
Capacitors complete the
circuit sending the current
on to the coil.
41
Back side of a capacitor array with the new
updated can type capacitors.
The 30uf
capacitor is
the same
as the old
design.
The new
can type
capacitors
These 4uf, 8uf, and 16uf can type capacitors
took the place of the other polypropylene GE
capacitors seen in the previous picture.
42
Each capacitor switch is, in effect, allowing you to
engage each different capacitor to get the desired
capacitance value required for the frequency you
want to run.
For instance, if you want to run the frequency
612 Hz, you will need a total capacitance of 8.68uf
for a coil with an inductance of 7.79 mH. One of
my coils measures 7.79 mH which is why I use it
as an example.
When you put two capacitors side by side which is
known as parallel, you simply add up each
capacitor’s value and the total is what the amp
sees. To get the 8.68uf capacitance you simply flip
on the following switches: 8uf; 0.5uf; 0.122uf; and
0.062uf. The sum of all these capacitor values is
8.684uf.
43
To see exactly how to solder all of these
capacitors together, the best resource is the
dougproju.exe file on this CD or on the web in
the files section at:
http://health.groups.yahoo.com/group/qsc1850hd/
Go to the files section and click on dougproju.CAB
This file is huge, 3510 KB. It will take quite a
while to download. I recommend you save it to
your desktop, then un-zip it and save it on your
hard drive. When you try to open it, click on the
file that looks like this.
44
The rest of the files in the dougproju.CAB file
are all attachments that support the
dougproju.exe file. When you pull it up, click
on the capacitor box. You will get a set of
capacitor values. Click on each value such as
.25uf, and a picture will open up along with a
detailed description of how to solder those
specific capacitors to get the capacitance
value you want.
After you finish that capacitor, simply click
again on the open picture and it will close.
There is a verbal description along with a
picture so you can see how the engineer
soldered the capacitors. It’s an excellent tool.
45
The next thing you will need to solder
are your resistors. For this you will
need ten 1 ohm 25 watt wirewound
resistors. You can purchase these from
Source Research Inc. at:
http://www.sourceresearch.com/store1/quic
kstore.cfm?ProductID=48784&do=detail
Order part #25W1D0
You will solder five resistors in parallel
or side by side for each channel of your
amp.
46
Here is how I soldered my resistors. As you can see, I
have two sets of five resistors soldered in parallel.
Each set of five resistors has a value of 0.2 ohms.
You will connect one set to channel 1 and the other set
to channel 2. They will then come together before
going on to the capacitors.
Connection
point of both
sets of
resistors.
47
The resistors shown here are soldered side by
side. This is correct; however, it is better to
have some air space between each resistor
which I do not have. They are air cooled and
when soldered so close together, they can get
hot.
Ideally,
there
should be
air space
between
each
resistor.
48
Detailed list of how to solder resistors.
Resistors
1 ohm 25w
Output
1 ohm 25w
Channel
1 of amp
1 ohm 25w
1 ohm 25w
1 ohm 25w
Air space between
resistors to keep them
cool.
To
Capacitor
array.
1 ohm 25w
Output
1 ohm 25w
Channel
2 of amp
1 ohm 25w
1 ohm 25w
1 ohm 25w
Order 10 resistors,
Part #25W1DO from:
www.sourceresearch.com
49
This diagram shows where you will connect
your voltage meter to read the current.
Resistors
1 ohm 25w
Output
Channel
1 of amp
Voltage
Meter
1 ohm 25w
1 ohm 25w
1 ohm 25w
1 ohm 25w
To
Capacitor
array.
1 ohm 25w
1 ohm 25w
Output
Channel
2 of amp
1 ohm 25w
1 ohm 25w
1 ohm 25w
Order 10 resistors,
Part #25W1DO from:
www.sourceresearch.com
50
From Resistors
Capacitors
Switches
The hot wire from the resistors must go to every
switch. The circuit will be completed when a switch
is turned on and current flows through that
capacitor and on to the coil via the terminal wire.
Switches
4 uf
etc.
Terminal
wire
51
To Coil
Making a coil
When you make your coil, you will need a 500 foot
spool of 12 gauge solid copper wire. You may
want to make several coils eventually, but you
should start with one in the 7 to 8.5 mH range.
Once you know what your coil’s inductance is
(value in millihenries abbreviated as mH) you can
use the calculator mentioned earlier to find out
what capacitance you will need to run a specific
frequency.
To make one of my coils (which is a 7.79 mH coil)
I purchased a large can of coffee. I chose this
because it measured exactly 6” in diameter. After
ten years of experimentation by the designer of
the coil device, it was determined that a six inch
diameter coil simply worked the best.
52
The dimensions given to me to make my coil
were to wrap the wire around a 6 inch object,
2½ inches wide, and 1½ inches thick. In
doing this I got a coil that measured 7.79 mH.
The inductance of your coil will be a
combination of length of wire you use, how
tight you wind it, the diameter of the object
you wind it around, and how thick you wind it.
Six inch inside diameter coil.
6”
Once the coil is made, you will need to attach a
15 foot 12 gauge speaker wire lead that will
connect one end of the coil to the output of the
capacitor array, and the other end to one of the
negative sides of the amp’s output terminal. This
coil does not have a 15 foot lead connected yet.
53
The two coils in the lower right corner have mH
values of 5.82 and 11.2 mH.
Wire nuts
connecting
speaker wire
to coil.
12 gauge
speaker wire.
5.82
mH
11.2
mH
54
Another option to making a coil is to use a flower
pot to wrap your wire on. Others have used this
method and say it’s easier to get the coil off after
making it. They also wax the flower pot before
starting to make the coil.
You will want to use some electrical tape or plastic
wire ties to keep the wire together. The tighter
you can wind the wire, the more inductance you
will get out of a smaller amount of wire.
55
Another drawing by one of the QSC1850HD group members.
56
If you are interested, here is the contraption I
used to make my 6 inch coil.
I used two by fours to make a
simple box that I mounted my
coffee can between. I used 3
inch screws so I could
assemble it and disassemble it
easily.
Plastic 5 gallon paint
Coffee
can
¼ inch x 20
threaded rod
purchased from
automotive
store.
can lids used to keep
wire in the 2 ½ inch
boundary.
Cardboard
wrapped on
can to make
it easier to
take wire off
can after
winding. 57
To keep the coil from
coming apart when I
disassembled it, I hot
glued the wire every
time I put a new layer
of wire across the
coil. After removing
the coil from the
coffee can, I put tape
and wire ties on it.
6 inch ¼ x 20
carriage bolts
used to hold the
paint can lids in
place.
Winding
the coil
58
To hold the wire as I wound
it on the coffee can, I used a
piece of ¼ inch plywood and
two pieces of two by four and
a ¼ x 20 threaded rod. I
bent one end over and put a
nut with washer on the other
end to hold it together.
Before putting the can
into the two by four
box, I attached a metal
paint can lid from a one
gallon paint can to
make the plastic lid
have more rigidity.
59
Connectors – Banana jacks make the safest
and easiest connectors.
Banana Jacks from
Radio Shack
7.79 mH Brooks coil
15 foot long 12 gauge
speaker wire.
60
When you get ready to run the machine, the
first thing you will need to do is pick a
frequency. Frequencies can be obtained from
the Lyme-and-rife or QSC1850HD Yahoo
groups. You can also use the CAFL list.
You will find the CAFL list on this site:
http://www.electroherbalism.com/Bioelectro
nics/FrequenciesandAnecdotes/CAFL.htm
Once you have decided on the frequency you
want to run, go to the calculator section of the
dougproju.CAB file mentioned earlier and
calculate the required capacitance value in
microfarads (uf) for that frequency.
61
Now flip the capacitor switches that will give
you the closest value as calculated. Make sure
your amplitude (volume) is turned all the way
down. You do not want to flip switches with
the voltage at a high level.
Turn both channel 1 and channel 2 gain knobs
to maximum. Amber light should come on. If
red light comes on, something is wrong.
With the frequency generator putting out a
signal, begin to turn up the amplitude
(volume) until you read 1.5 volts on your
multimeter. 1.5 volts actually means you are
putting out 15 amps. Leave this on for the
desired time and then turn down the
amplitude as far as you can to start a new
frequency.
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Schematic of a QSC 1850HD
Input
Output
Signal Generator
Ground
1 clip limiter OFF
2 30 Hz filter OFF
3 filter OFF
4 parallel input ON
5 parallel input ON
6 bridge mono OFF
7 bridge mono OFF
8 filter OFF
9 30Hz filter OFF
10 clip limiter OFF
Coil
Cooling fan
Back of
amp
Mode Switches
QSC1850HD
CH 1
CH 2
Voltage
Meter
Five 1 ohm
25watt
wirewound
resistors in
parallel
Five 1 ohm
25watt
wirewound
resistors in
parallel
Capacitor Array in Box
For details on how to make the capacitor array,
go to dougproju.CAB file in the file section of the
Yahoo group:
http://health.groups.yahoo.com/group/qsc1850hd/
63
This brings us to the end of this presentation. It is
my hope that you will now be able to proceed with
the building of your own QSC1850HD coil device.
If you have any additional questions while building
a device of your own, please feel free to post your
questions on the following web-site.
http://health.groups.yahoo.com/group/qsc1850hd/
It is the goal of this group to help as many people
as possible with the construction of their own
QSC1850HD coil devices.
To obtain additional CD’s of this PowerPoint
presentation, send your request to
[email protected]
May God Bless
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