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It‘s personnel data
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INCI:
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Spreading value:
1600 mm2 / 10 min
Sensory feeling:
dry, volatile silicon oil like
Skin compatibility:
excellent
Stability:
hydrolysis stable
Origin:
vegetable (fatty alcohol)
Biodegrability:
yes
What can it do for you?
Skin Care
Sun Care
Skin Cleansing
Deodorants / APs
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Skin Care
ADVANTAGES:
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Fast spreading emollient
Smoothes the skin
Dry, silicon oil like skin feel
Superior skin compatibility
Good emulsifiability
Fast spreading emollient
Smoothness
Cetiol® CC
Cetiol® PGL
Skin Care
Cetiol® J 600
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Time
Skin Care
Spreading Values
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Emollient
INCI
Spreading Value
[mm2/10 min]
Cetiol® CC
Cetiol® OE
Cyclomethicone
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Dicaprylyl Ether
Myritol® 331
Cetiol® PGL
Eutanol® G 16
Myritol® 318
Cocoglycerides
Hexyldecanol/Hexyldecyl Laurate
Hexyldecanol
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
750
750
600
550
medium
Cetiol® J 600
Almond Oil
Oleyl Erucate
Prunus Dulcis
350
200
slow
> 2600
1600
1600
high
Superior skin compatibility
Method: Human Patchtest, 20 % AS in cosmetic alcohol
Irritation Score (Erytheme)
7
5
4
3
2
Skin Care
1
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Cetiol® CC
6
0
IPM
N-Hexadecan
Emulsifiability of different emollients
Ingredients
INCI
Eumulgin® VL 75
Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2
Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glycerin
Skin Care
Emollient
Carbopol 2 %
KOH 20 %
Water
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Carbomer
Kaliumhydroxide
Aqua
w/w%
4.5
16.0
15.0
0.6
63.9
Good emulsifiability
Standard formulation with Eumulgin® VL 75
Droplet Size: E
Droplet Size: D
Droplet Size: C
Droplet Size: B
Skin Care
Droplet Size: A
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50 µm
magnification 400 x
Skin Care
Emulsifiability of different emollients with Eumulgin® VL 75
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Ingredient
INCI
Droplet Size
Myritol® 331
Cocoglycerides
A
Cetiol® CC
Eutanol® G
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Octyldodecanol
B
B
Cetiol® OE
Myritol® 318
Dicaprylyl Ether
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Paraffinum Liquidum
C
C
C
Cyclomethicone
D
Skin Care
O/W Emulsion with Cetiol® CC Rec. DE 99/239/6
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Ingredients
INCI
Emulgade® PL 68/50
Dehymuls® PGPH
Amphisol K
Cutina® GMS-V
Novata® AB
Myritol® 331
Copherol® F 1300
Siliconoil Wacker AK 350
Carbopol 980
Cetiol® CC
Cetearyl Glucoside, Cetearyl Alcohol
Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
Glyceryl Stearate
Cocoglycerides
Cocoglycerides
Tocopherol
Dimethicone
Carbomer
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Glycerin 86 %
KOH 20 %
Perfume, Preservative
Water
Glycerin
Potassium Hydroxide
Aqua
w/w %
2.5
2.5
0.5
1.0
1.0
5.0
1.0
0.5
0.3
6.0
5.0
0.6
q.s.
74.1
Skin Care
W/O Emulsion with Cetiol® CC Rec. DE 99/244/3
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Ingredients
INCI
Dehymuls® PGPH
Lameform® TGI
Zincum N29
Cetiol® A
Cetiol® SN
Eutanol® G 16
Cetiol® CC
Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
Zinc Stearate
Hexyl Laurate
Cetearyl Isononanoate
Hexyldecanol
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Glycerin 86 %
MgSO4.7H2O
Perfume, Preservative
Water
Glycerin
Magnesium Sulfate
Aqua
w/w %
3.0
1.0
1.0
6.0
5.0
1.0
8.0
5.0
1.0
q.s.
69.0
Sun Care
ADVANTAGES:
Solubility for crystalline UV filter
Dispersing performance for pigments
Increase of UV absorption
SPF enhancing capacity
Balanced sensory due to spreading ability
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Solubility for crystalline UV filter & Spreading performance
Cyclomethicone
Cetiol® OE
Sun Care
Spreading
fast
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Cetiol® CC
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
Myritol® 331
slow
little
Solubility
high
Solubility for crystalline UV filter
Assessment criterion: clear aspect after 1 week at 15°C
Solubility [%]
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
25
15
10
Sun Care
5
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Cetiol® CC
20
0
Myritol® 331
C12-15
CycloAlkyl Benzoate methicone
Solubility for crystalline UV filter
Assessment criterion: clear aspect after 1 week at 15°C
Solubility [%]
4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor
30
20
15
10
Sun Care
5
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Cetiol® CC
25
0
Myritol® 331
C12 - 15
CycloAlkyl Benzoate methicone
Dispersing performance for pigments
METHOD:
Titanium dioxide was dispersed into the emollient under
stirring without homogenisation
(80 parts Emollient + 20 parts Titanium Dioxide
(Titanium Dioxide T 805, Degussa))
The pigment dispersion was assessed by microscope
examination and viscosity behaviour
Sun Care
A
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C
Viscosity & Homogeneity of Pigment Dispersions
Emollient
Viscosity
Homogeneity
(mPas)
Sun Care
Myritol 331 / Cocoglycerides
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14 000
A
Cetiol® CC / Dicaprylyl Carbonate
9 000
B
Cetiol PGL / Hexyldecanol, Hexyldecyl Laurate
9 000
B
Paraffinum Liquidum
8 000
C
Cetiol OE / Dicaprylyl Ether
3 000
C
Cyclomethicone
3 000
C
Formula for SPF determination Rec. DE 97/062/1
Ingredients
Emollient
Neo Heliopan E 1000
Neo Heliopan BB
Copherol® F 1300
Carbopol® ETD 2001
Eumulgin® VL 75
Sun Care
Glycerin 86 %
Water
KOH 20 %
Perfume, preservative
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INCI
Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate
Benzophenone-3
Tocopherol
Carbomer
Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate,
Lauryl Glucoside, Glycerin
Glycerin
Aqua
Potassium Hydroxide
w/w %
16.0
6.4
1.6
1.0
0.3
3.5
3.0
67.5
0.7
q.s.
SPF enhancing capacity
SPF in vitro (Labsphere)
16
12
10
8
6
4
Cetiol® CC
14
2
Sun Care
0
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Paraffinum Liquidum
Result: In a given formulation the substitution of Mineral oil
by Cetiol® CC increases the SPF in vitro by > 100 %
O/W Sun Lotion with Cetiol® CC SPF > 20 (est.)Rec. DE 99/095/10
Ingredients
INCI
Eumulgin® VL 75
Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-2
Dipolyhydroxystearate, Glycerin
Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Cocoglycerides
Octyl Methoxycinnamate
Octocrylene
Titanium Dioxide, Alumina, Simethicone
Magnesium Aluminium Silicate
Xanthan Gum
Sun Care
Lanette® E
Cetiol® CC
Myritol® 331
Neo Heliopan AV
Neo Heliopan 303
Eusolex T 2000
Veegum Ultra
Keltrol T
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Glycerin 86 %
Hydagen® B
Water
Perfume, Preservative
Glycerin
Bisabolol
Aqua
w/w %
4.0
1.0
12.0
10.0
7.5
9.0
5.0
1.5
0.5
3.0
0.5
46.0
q.s.
W/O Sun Blocker with Cetiol® CC SPF 30 (est.) Rec. DE 99/095/14
Ingredients
INCI
Dehymuls® PGPH
Lameform® TGI
Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
Beeswax
Zinc Stearate
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Cocoglycerides
Titanium Dioxide, Alumina, Simethicone
Isostearic Acid
Tocopherol
4.0
2.0
3.0
1.0
11.0
10.0
15.0
1.0
2.0
Glycerin
Aqua
Magnesium Sulfate
Bisabolol
5.0
44.5
1.0
0.5
q.s.
Cetiol® CC
Myritol® 331
Eusolex T 2000
Sun Care
Copherol® F 1300
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Glycerin 86 %
Water
MgSO4·7 H2O
Hydagen® B
Perfume, Preservative
w/w %
ADVANTAGES:
Can be used for
Deodorants / APs
Sprayable Antiperspirant PIT formulae
Transparent Antiperspirant Gels
Antiperspirant Cremes & Roll on
Suspensions Antiperspirant Sticks
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Performance in stick formulations:
Gives a special dry, powdery & silky skin feeling
Reduces white residues
Evaluation of AP/Deo Sticks with Cetiol® CC Rec. DE 99/250/30
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Hydroxystearic Acid
65
10
Rezal 36 GP
25
Market formula
Deodorants / APs
Evaluation:
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Hardness
Gloss (Stick surface)
Sensorial feeling
White residue (in vitro)
White residue (in vivo)
++
yes
excellent
no
less
++
no
good
little
yes
Deodorants / APs
Suspension stick with Cetiol® CC - white residues on sheets
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ADVANTAGES:
Improvement of cleansing abilities of make-up remover
METHOD:
Skin Cleansing
Development of benchmark formula which is similar in
terms of ingredients & percentage to standard market
formulations
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Substitution of emollient in this formula to evaluate
their cleansing properties
Product quantity: 1.0 g Milk
Defined application
Evaluation in comparison to benchmark
Benchmark formula for Skin Cleansing Test
Ingredients
INCI
Emulgade® SE-PF
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20
(and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl
Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Paraffinum Liquidum
Isopropyl Palmitate
Skin Cleansing
Lanette® O
Mineraloil
IPP
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Water
Perfume, Preservative
Aqua
w/w %
6.0
0.5
7.5
7.5
78.5
q.s.
Reference Formula for Skin Cleansing Test
Ingredients
INCI
Emulgade® SE-PF
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20
(and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl
Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Paraffinum Liquidum
Isopropyl Palmitate
6.0
Aqua
78.5
q.s.
Skin Cleansing
Lanette® O
Mineral Oil
IPP
Emollient
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Water
Perfume, Preservative
w/w %
0.5
6.0
6.0
3.0
METHOD:
Lipstick
Foundation
Skin Cleansing
Mascara
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Rest time:
10 minutes
Make-up remover efficacy
reduced
Skin Cleansing
Cegesoft® C24
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improved
Benchmark
Cetiol® CC
Cetiol® LC
Cyclomethicone
Cetiol® OE
Myritol® PC
Cetiol® A
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BACK-UP CHARTS
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Dry, volatile silicon oil like skin feel
O/W - Rec. 99/239/6 (with Cetiol® CC) vs. Rec. 99/239/4 (with Cyclomethicone = 0-Line);
n = 10 human volunteers, pair comparison test
Skin Care
Pick-up
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less good
good
Consistency
low
high
Peaking
little
high
Cushion
little
much
Distribution
difficult
Absorption I
slow
fast
Absorption II
slow
fast
Smoothness
little
high
Tackiness
much
little
Oiliness
much
little
Waxiness
much
little
Powdery
easy
little
much
2
1
0
1
2
Sprayable Antiperspirant with Cetiol® CC Rec. DE 99/237/1
Ingredients
INCI
Emulgade® SE-PF
Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20
(and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl
Alcohol (and) Cetyl Palmitate
Ceteareth-20
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Coco-Caprylate / Caprate
Aqua
Deodorants / APs
Eumulgin® B 2
Cetiol® CC
Cetiol® LC
Water
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Locron L 50 %
Water
Perfume, Preservative
Aluminum Chlorohydrate
Aqua
w/w %
4.1
0.9
5.0
5.0
30.0
40.0
15.0
q.s.