Plant Extracts and Fine Chemicals in Cosmetics

Ed Galley

History

• Long history of use • Egyptian, Greek, • Actives and fragrance

NATURAL FOCUS

Current Uses

Radox shower gel – claims a blend of natural herbs and minerals ingredients list:- Aqua, Sodium Laureth Sulphate , Cocamidopropyl Betaine , Sodium Chloride,

Eucalyptus Globulus Oil

,

Citrus Medica Liminum Oil

, Citric Acid, Perfam, Limonene, Polyquaternium 2, Sodium Lactate, Fragrance ingredients and colours Supersoft Yoghurt and Peach Smoothie Shampoo – claims with Yoghurt Protein and Peach Kernel Oil Ingredients list: Sodium Laureth Sulphate, PEG7 Glycereth, Cocoate, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate , Sodium Chloride, Glycerol Distearate, Laureth-2 , Sodium Benzoate, Glycerine , Propylene Glycol, Citric Acid, PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate , Parfam, Laureth 4 , Salycylic Acid, Cocamidopropyl Betaine , Panthanol , Hydrogenated Caster Oil , Niacinamide, Polyquternium 10,

Prunus persica , Yoghurt

, Limonene, linalool,

Current Uses

Performance Focus Cyclopentasiloxane Aqua Butylene glycol Dimethicone cross polymer Cyclohexasiloxane Glycerin Dimethicone copolyol Sodium ascorbyl phosphate Polysorbate 20 Magnesium sulphate Phenoxyethanol Sodium PCA Retinyl palmitate Methylparaben Propylene glycol Lupinus albus Carbomer Butylparaben Ethylparaben Propylparaben Isobutylparaben Panax ginseng Morus Alba Tocopherol Palmitoyl pentapeptide-3

Needs

• Sunless tanning actives • Colours • Emulsifiers and surfactants • UV absorbers, • Antimicrobials • Polymers

Delivering consumer needs through natural products

• • • • • • • Requirements of new natural materials to interest a major cosmetics company Differentiation Sustainability Regulatory Safety and efficacy Supply Cost IP

Differentiation

• Unique ingredient • Same plant but proven better performance • Safer/less impurities etc • More reliable source • Cheaper

Spider profile to show attribute comparison between 2 facial moisturisers * = Significant difference

Fragrance remaining Shiny appearance 10 *SMOOTH/SOFT AFTERFEEL* 8 6 Greasy/coated afterfeel 4 2 0 Thick/creamy *GLIDES* Easy absorbency Tacky afterfeel Greasy/coated appearance Greasy initial feel 131 - Day cream with Cationic Guar Strong initial fragrance 662 - Day cream placeabo

15 10 5 0 45 40 35 30 25 20 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Placebo Active 1 Active 2

Sustainability/Ethical Trading

• Source • Fully characterised plant variety • Fully tracked “Identity Preserved” base raw material from field to factory • Preferably cultivated • Environmental impact • If wild harvest full environmental impact assessment prepared • If field grown ensure not displacing endangered species • Production methods • Low carbon as possible • low impact solvents – water, ethanol. SC CO 2 • Yield • Actives preferably in plants at above 1% • Fair trade • Fair returns throughout the supply chain

Regulatory

• • • • REGULATION (EC) No 1223/2009 OF THE EUROPEAN PARLIAMENT AND OF THE COUNCIL on cosmetic products – came into force Jan 2010 - 3.5 year implementation period – – – Animal testing Positive lists – colours, preservatives, sun filter Efficacy/documentation EU regulation on the Registration, Authorisation, Evaluation and Restriction of Chemicals (REACh) Biocides Directive 98/8/EC – insect repellents Advertising Standards/Trading Standards

Safety and Efficacy

Safety

• Meet the requirements of Cosmetics and REACh regulations as appropriate • As much In-vitro or human ex-vivo data as possible • Issues around animal testing • Supported by as much published literature data as possible • Challenging compounds – enzymes, small proteins, estrogenics

Efficacy

• Data from “test tube”, in-vitro skin models and preferably human studies • Placebo controlled and comparative data against the best competitor on the market • Some formulation compatibility/stability data

Supply

• Variable Volumes – Stage Gate Stop/Go strategy at each milestone – Customer demand hard to predict – can go up or down!

• Quick response – Need to be able to respond to demands what ever the season – Delivery to factories around the world – Logistics to deliver on time in full – short lead times

Costs

• Realistic cost analysis at start of the development – Development, raw material, processing,

capital

etc • Understanding market cost sensitivities – Small change in cost of goods has large change in selling price • Economies of scale – Essential to have many end users in a number of industries, reduces cost and risk

Intellectual Property

• Understand the patent landscape • Protect the compound/ plant/ process/ end use/ combinations where possible • Think about research disclosures • Remember a patent stops other people using your invention – it does NOT allow you to use your invention

Example

•

Althaea officinalis

(Marshmallow) • Long history of use • Source of polysaccharides/polyphenols • Current sources too variable in performance and quality • Known activities: – Immunomodulating, anti-eczema and psoriasis, general skin soothing protecting and moisturising, dental gum health, digestive aid

Novel growing system Hydroponics - Chosen due to its greater yield potential (tops vs. root growth) - Roots (source of actives) more easily harvested and likely to be of consistant quality - Allows pesticide free and unwanted heavy metals free growing conditions - Higher yield of active compounds and consistent quality

Choice of extraction technology

• Driven by interest in both polysaccharides and polyphenols need to maximise yield • Alcohol extraction not appropriate due to poor solubility of polysaccharides.

• Focus on superheated water due to specialist knowledge of a key collaborator

Outcomes – efficacy testing

• COMET assays carried out to determine DNA protective effect against UVA damage • Statistically significant reduction in DNA damage for hydroponically sourced material compared to conventional Blank control C MM only control H MM only control UVA only control C MM + UVA H MM + UVA* 0 10 20 30 40 Median DNA Damage (%) 50 60 70

Outcomes – efficacy testing

Prevention of lipid peroxidation in human skin lipid model irradiated hydroponic irradiated soil grown irradiated control unirradiated control 0 100 200

peroxide content (nmol/L)

300 Ряд2

The final outcome

Summary

• The cosmetics industry needs new extracts and fine chemicals from plants • By careful consideration of the factors involved in the development of new actives it is possible to deliver exiting new materials that delight the customers