Cost of “Wrong-First-Time”

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Transcript Cost of “Wrong-First-Time”

Micro Fibres Processing
Process Overview 1
There are a number of processing options for Microfibres,
depending on the desired end result and material.
1
2
3
4
Normal.
Textured
Short
Process
Yarn
Relax
Heat Set
Scour/WR
Dye/Print
Wash
Finish
Relax
Scour
Modify
Dye/Print
Wash
Finish
Heat Set
Scour
Dye/Print
Wash
Finish
Wind
Scour
Dye
Wash
Oil / Finish
RELAXATION 1
Relaxation is the process of shrinkage development,
at low fabric tension.
Relaxation = Hot + Wet
Benefits of Relaxation

Reduces potential distortion or deformation of the
fabric from residual uneven tension.

(eg : slits, islands, uneven puckering )

Pre-shrinks the goods ready for correct setting.

Required for Desizing woven goods before Heat Set.
Shrinkage occurs at lower temperatures than standard fibres.
RELAXATION 2
Relaxation Methods for Microfibres




Hot wash or scour. Say ~ 90 0C .
This can be coupled with a scouring step.
Hot solvent scour (continuous washer).
Steaming
Steam Table
Gives good relaxation.
Steam Frame
Front of Stenter
( Steaming and drying in a stenter should be a
separate step before Heat Setting. )
Combined (Single Pass) Steam Relaxing and Heat Set gives a
less uniform result compared with two separate steps.
MACHINES 1
The best wet processing machines for Microfibres are :


Low or controlled tension,

- short distance to lift roll/winch (a small rise ).

- lots of water pumping action to support.
Good liquor exchange but low turbulence.
Thies Soft-Stream
Hisaka Cut-F
Brazolli Overflow
SOFT - STREAM SV
Longclose Ventura Rapide
ADD TANK
Cool to 50° C before drop !
MACHINES 2
Low liquor ratio machines will work on viscose blends,
or on heavier fabrics : say above 100 gm/m.
Then Airflow
Thies Airstream
or Rotostream
These machines may not work so well on high twist and
high density but lightweight fabrics.
Problems => Creasing, Shrinkage, Abrasion, Air entrapment.
NEARFIL FAC
To eliminate air entrapment.
DEAERATION 1
NEARFIL FAC
•
•
•
•
Developed for Deaerating yarn packages after loading.
Excellent wetting efficiency.
Rapid bubble breakage.
Alkali stable.
Suitable for :
•
Yarn preparation
•
Batch dyeing of light
synthetics.
MACHINES 3
Useful machines for microfibre relaxation are :
Continuous Drum Scour machines.
They give :




Good widthwise relaxation.
Controlled lengthwise relaxation.
Good scouring of fibre.
Splitting of conjugates.
Some fabrics may be prepared by bad dwell methods, but it is
normal to dye polyester microfibre in Jets.
x
MACHINES 4
The best dry processing machines for Microfibres are :



Electric heated, to minimise fumes. (Critical for Nylon)
Steaming capacity to facilitate relaxation.
Overfeed capacity to facilitate optimum body and
fullness properties.
Process Overview 2
Normal Long Process
Relax
Heat Set
or
Solvent scour or
jet scour to relax .
Rapid relax with
Steam Frame or
Table , then Set.
x
Scour/WR
Dye/Print
Scour after Setting.
Weight Reduce for
light silk styles.
Dye the fabric in
jet machine.
Wash
Wash off well in jet.
Finish
Pad finish, dry and
Cure with mild Set.
or
Process Overview 3.1
Textured 1
Textured fabrics
: are produced by blending
filaments with different
shrinkage. “MICROPILE”
“MICROLOOPS”
“Micromattique MX”
from Invista
Yarn => 135 d / 200 f
175 filaments @ 0.5 dpf
34 filaments @ 2 dpf
“Maximum body and softness.”
Process Conditions
: elimination of the Pre Heat Setting step allows full
development of the micro loops of filament.
Process Overview 3.2
Textured 2
Micropile effects may also be achieved by varying the
structure of the fibre . Differential texturising and control
of crystallinity can lead to differential shrinkage properties.
Invista’s nylon 6.6 ‘Tactel’ Ispira.
Differential shrinkage filament, that
gives texture and shading effects.
Caution :
Different fibre denier and types create
shade variations. This may create
desirable effects, or…..
Warp lines from unequally textured polyester filament can show
after dyeing, and can be a difficult problem to solve.
NEARGAL HP-MF New and high temperature dyeing helps with polyester.
Process Overview 3.3
Textured 3
Different fibre denier and types can create various effects.
- differential depth of shade.
- differential sheen or lustre.
- textured effects.
Invista ‘Strata’ polyamide.
This type of yarn is mixed in
denier and shape leading to
potential texture and colouration
effects.
The yarn can be used in fashion goods to create unusual
colouration effects, with reasonable control.
Process Overview 3.4
Textured 4
x
Relax
WR
Dye/Print
Continuous, Jet or
Solvent scour to relax .
Weight Reduce for
light silk styles.
Dye the fabric in
jet machine.
Wash
Wash off well in jet.
Finish
& Set
Pad finish, dry and
Cure with Full Set.
or
x
or
Process Overview 3.5
Textured 5
Relax
Modify
Dye/Print
Wash
Finish
& Set
x
Continuous, Jet or
Solvent scour to
relax .
Pad, dry and emerise
to loft the fabric.
Dye the fabric in
jet machine.
Wash off well in jet.
Pad finish, dry and
Cure with Full Set.
or
or
Process Overview 4
Short Process
Heat Set
Scour
Rapid relax with
Steam Frame or
Table , then Set.
x
Scour for dyeing;
or
Dye/Print
Dye the fabric in
jet machine.
Wash
Wash off well in jet.
Finish
Pad finish, dry and
Cure with mild Set.
Process Overview 4.2
Notes on Short Process
Heat setting before scouring causes scorching, and the setting of oils
into the fabric. As microfibres have a high loading of process aids, this
can be a real problem.
These aids may be difficult to remove Silicone oils, sizes, waxes, and
mineral oil from knitters and looms.
This problem is worst with :
- very fine fibres
due to the high oil content.
- cotton blends
the cotton yellows and absorbs oils from
other fibres.
Padding LUBRIFIL LAF can help.
Preparation 1
Objectives of Preparation
1.
Remove the high level of processing aids.
(Spin finish, size, wax, processing oils etc..)
Before or after heat setting !
2.
Control shrinkage in a gentle manner, as required.
(Some fabrics require a relaxed shrinkage to develop full
texture and body. ) Relaxation !
3.
Minimise fabric damage and creasing.
(The shrinkage step can be prone to crease generation if
not performed in a relaxed state.)
SCOURING 1
NEARPON KR
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Developed for removing Silicone oils from Tactel
Microfibre.
Biodegradable Solvent Scouring Detergent
Non flammable, safe, low odour, high activity.
Softens and dissolves waxes, silicone, mineral oils,
PVA, acrylic size, paint, etc...
Ideal for elastomeric and microfibre.
Recommended by Invista.
Wets rapidly for padding and continuous operations.
Low foam profile.
Rinses clear for excellent absorbency.
SCOURING 2
Invista recommendations
for Tactel.
NEARPON KR
2.0 - 4.0 g/l
NEARCHEL TMC 0.5 - 1.0 g/l
Soda Ash
1.0 - 4.0 g/l.
Heat to 90-95 0C x 10 - 30’
SCOURING 3
NEARCHEL TMC
Scouring and Dyeing Sequesterant.


For Scouring.
 Builds up the effectiveness of the detergent.

Strong sequestering power to remove metals.

Extraction of magnesium from Elastane.

Gives high whiteness on bleaching.

Stabilises bleach liquor when padding.
For Dyeing.

Stable to high temperatures.

Minimises dye aggregation for best dispersion.
HEAT SETTING 1
Objectives of MICRO-FIBRE HEAT SETTING
1.
2.
Y
Control shrinkage during wet processing.
Reduce creasing, abrasion and crows feet marks
Contamination may be burnt into the fabric.
The strength of setting may be measured by the Heat Set
Efficiency (HSE).
HSE =
Final Width After Dyeing
Heat Set Width
=
FW
HSW
Many microfibre fabrics are dyed without pre heat setting, to
allow the full development of shrinkage during wet processing.
HEAT SETTING 2
HEAT SETTING CONDITIONS
Silk styles
185 oC x 30”
Active sportswear
180 oC x 30”
or maybe
No pre setting.
Textured styles
No pre setting.
Cationic Dye types
165 oC x 30”
Follow your fibre supplier’s recommendation !!
Using a Steam Frame or Steam Table before setting,
can give some relaxation effect without a wet process.
This may be beneficial in shortening the process path.
HEAT SETTING 3
HEAT SETTING CONDITIONS
Use of Auxiliary.
 The Pad application of Auxiliaries can help reduce
scorching and setting of oils during pre-heat setting.
 The use of a padding application before pre-set also
allows some movement and relaxation of the fibres.
 Maximum Heat Set Efficiency is achieved.
HEAT SETTING 4
LUBRIFIL LAF
A problem solver.
An anionic multipurpose product.
Detergent
Emulsifies and restrains oil from burning into fabric.
Cleans during subsequent wet processing.
Disperses particles including dyes, dust and fibres.
Anticrease
Lubricating effect helps to maximise the HSE. (Less return.)
Carries over into the dye bath and continues as an anticrease.
Ideal for Heat Setting elastane and all types of
micro-fibre fabrics.
HEAT SETTING 5
NAISTAT 1350
The POLYESTER friend.
A fine dispersion of polymer.
(Please refer to Finishing later.)
Detergent
Scavenges and restrains oil from polyester and elastane.
Cleans during scouring, after heat set. Anti-redeposition.
Anticrease
Lubricating effect helps to maximise the HSE. (Less return.)
Carries over into the dye bath and continues as an anticrease.
Helps reduce scorching of elastane by a protective film.
Ideal for Heat Setting polyester elastane and microfibre.
HEAT SETTING 6
NEARCAND LT 75
The Anti-scorch.
A nylon substantive antioxidant.
NEARCAND LT 75 adsorbs rapidly onto nylon or amide- like
substances to form an antioxidant film. This reduces the
scorching of nylon and elastane polymers, and limits
yellowing of softeners as high temperatures.
Used for Heat Setting, Finishing or Wet Bleaching of nylon
and nylon blends.
Low dose required : 1 to 3 % owf.
Needs to be dispersed or dissolved hot before application.
Ideal for Heat Setting elastane and nylon fabric.
HEAT SETTING 7
Some RECIPES.
NEARCAND LT 75
NAISTAT 1350
LUBRIFIL LAF
65% Pick up.
Nylon
Polyester
TC
25-30 g/l
---
-15 g/l
--
-10 - 20 g/l
Maximum settling of fibres for optimum Heat Set, scorch
protection, easier cleaning and trouble free dyeing.
=> Less distortion and better dyeing and finishing.
BLEACHING
NEARPON KR


See Scouring 2
Developed for removing Silicone oils, ideal for elastomerics.
Recommended by Dupont.
Powerful Green Scouring Detergent for all oils.
NEARCHEL TMC


Powerful High Temperature sequesterant.
Bleach Stabiliser, Cotton Protector and Whiteness Booster.
Suggested Cotton-Microfibre bleach after Heat Set .
@ 110 0C x 20’
NEARPON KR
NEARCHEL TMC
Caustic Soda 50%
H. Peroxide 50%
0.3 g/l
0.5 g/l
4.0 g/l
5-10 g/l
Weight Reduction 1
Imitation Silk
Traditional Imitation Silk
Made with ‘fine’ polyester filament that is reduced in size and weight
by the process of Weight Reduction, (WR).
Typically, filaments of 1.2 to 2.0 dpf are used, with the final fibre
size depending on the structure and required features.
Imitation silks can now be achieved through use of
Microfibre technology, without the need for WR.
Weight reduction is still applied to Microfibre fabrics, to achieve additional
handle benefits.
The finer dpf leads to
- more open weave with reduced stiffness and improved drape.
- enhancement of differential dpf properties like lofted yarns.
- splitting or shocking of “conjugate” fibres to Microfibres.
Weight Reduction 2
Techniques for WR
1. Pad Roll batching.
(Difficult to control)
2. WR by Pad Steam
IR heat and Steam must be controlled well.
x
3. WR in Jet machine.
Dip batch in
(A method used in some places.)
(Easy to control.)
NaOH x%
1 g/l accelerator
@ 130 oC x 60’
The key to success is consistency. => Complete control.
Temperature,
Accelerants,
Time,
Steam,
Purity,
Liquor Ratio,
and Excellent Washing .
Weight Reduction 3
Control for WR
% Reduction in Weight can be theoretically calculated.
2 equivalents of NaOH break up one ester monomer unit.
Molecular weight of 2 x NaOH
= 80
Molecular weight of ester monomer
= 192
Machine factors must be used in practice.
= ‘f’
So,
%WR = 192 x %NaOH (owf) x f
80
For Pad applications, the pick-up must be accounted for.
Typical Fabric % WR
Crepe Georgette
25-30%
Pongee De Chine
15%
Textured Wovens
15%
Accelerants must WR in an even or “level” manner.
Weight Reduction 4
The WR process creates a rough semi-porous fibre surface, and leaves
large amounts of polyester fragments and oligomer on this rough
surface.
These residues MUST be removed before dyeing.
NEARGAL DN


High performance dispersing agent for Oligomer.
Proven performance as a machine cleaner.
NEARCLEAR VL



Powerful wetter, dispersant, emulsifier and detergent.
Proven performance in Reduction Clear.
Lifts surface and disperses residues.
Wash @ 900C x 20’
NEARGAL DN
0.5 g/l
NEARCLEAR VL 0.5 g/l
Dyeing 1
Key Issues
The 2 most important factors in dyeing polyester microfibres.
• Build-up properties.
• Washfastness.
Problems
BUILD-UP
Causes
1
2
WASH
FASTNESS
1
2
Depth of shade X 1/ fibre dpf.
Finer fibres need more dye.
Dye buildup properties can
vary with finer fibres.
High dye applications needed.
Washfastness relates to surface
dye. Microfibres have very
high surface area.
Remedies
DYE & AUXILIARY
SELECTION
DYE & AUXILIARY
SELECTION
Reduction Clear
The WR process creates a rough semi-porous fibre surface, which can
trap large amounts of surface dye. The high surface area alone
creates wash fastness problems for microfibres.
NEARGAL DN


High performance dispersing agent for Oligomer and Dye.
Proven performance as a machine cleaner and dispersant.
NEARCLEAR VL



Powerful wetter, dispersant, emulsifier and detergent.
Proven performance in Reduction Clear
Lifts surface dye and disperses residues.
@ 920C x 20’
NEARGAL DN
NEARCLEAR VL
(& when ready to give up, add ..) NEARPON KR
0.5 g/l
0.5 g/l
0.3 g/l
Texture Modification 1.1
Emerising 1
TEXTURE from SHRINKAGE
The differential shrinkage of microfibres provides the
potential for novel texture effects.
Additional Loft.
“Micromattique XF”
Peach Skin effect.
Medium shrink.
Suede effects.
High shrink.
Emerising and Brushing of these fabrics.
EMERISING
Raising the “microloops” created by differential shrinkage,
creates a fullness and warmth in the fabric.
Emerising is usually done before dyeing, to reduce shade
variation, but may be carried out after dyeing on light shades.
Texture Modification 1.2
Emerising 2
EMERISING PROCESS
Factors to consider ….
• Emery grit grade
• Roller speed and direction.
• Pressure applied.
• Cloth tension and run speed.
Single roller
Versatile - wide range of effects.
Runs best on filaments.
Can damage fabric, spun yarns.
Runs about 8 m/min.
(Spirotto Rimar / Curtain Herbert)
Multi roller
Scour & Relax FIRST
Pad Lubricant
Lubricate with a
non permanent
softener.
Dry
Dry gently
to about
7% .
Emerise
Post Set
Control of
parameters
to desired
effect.
A heat set
step may be
included
for
dimensional
stability.
Moisture
will moderate
the effect.
High run rates - tuned to effect.
Good for spun yarns.
Easy to run continuously.
Runs about 15 m/min.
(Spirotto Rimar / Sucker Mueller)
Wash
Wash/Scour
to remove
lubricant,
fluff, and lint.
Dye
Texture Modification 2
Air Permeable Water Proofs
BREATHABLE SHOWER PROOF Fabrics
Microfibres can form high density woven fabrics that :
block wind effectively, but allow vapour to diffuse through.
allow easy barrier coverage. (Polyurethane or Fluorocarbon.)
maintain appealing drape and handle characteristics.
BARRIER
Fluorocarbon Repellant.
and / or
Polyurethane solution.
Applied as a standard finish and cured.
The application is made from a volatile
solvent (DMF, MEK) which is boiled off
to leave a porous film.
(The film is gas permeable but repels water.)
Imitation Effects
Microfibre enhancement
VISCOSE BLENDS
Light with excellent drape.
High Twist Polyester and Nylon Microfibres blended with Viscose :
much reduced shrinkage.
anticreasing and dimensional stability properties.
tensile strength and durability.
COTTON BLENDS
Enhanced TC properties.
Polyester Microfibre staple blended with cotton for shirting :
enhanced softness and drape.
enhanced moisture absorbency.
added warmth.
WORSTED BLENDS
Durability
Multi false twisting and air texturising on warp/weft blends produces
interlaced (structured) fabrics. These are similar to the felting on
worsted and woollen fabrics. Microfibre Suits are available !
Technical Effects 1
Microfibres wick moisture better.
This technical effect is due to capillary transport created in
the small gaps between many more filaments. This effect,
combined with polyester stability and microfibre handle,
imparts several unique benefits.
1.
Comfort in normal apparel like polyester-cotton.
Soft & Dry feeling apparel. Not clammy or sticky.
2.
Specialty Sportswear.
Rapid drying, and body cooling effects.
3.
Towels and Wipes.
For cleaning lenses, glasses etc… lint free !
4.
High oil pickup with polyester.
Technical Effects 2
Microfibres act as barriers to bacteria.
This technical effect is due to the small size of the gaps
between many filaments, which acts like a filter. This effect,
combined with polyester stability and microfibre handle,
imparts several unique benefits.
1.
2.
3.
Filter Membranes without contamination.
Hospital specialty medical wear.
Clean room garments, camera bags, instrument
covers..
All lint free !
FINISHING 1
Microfibres naturally have appealing ‘handle’ features.
• High softness, greater than cotton or conventional polyester.
• High degree of drape and fluidity, (this varies with structure).
• High surface smoothness, (mainly unbrushed filament fabric).
• Moisture transport that aids coolness and comfort.
Microfibres should be finished according to the requirements for the
outlet.
Silky soft with stenter finish
Imitiation Silk.
Soften to suit and light post brush.
Emerised.
Air perm / water proof. Fluorocarbon / Coating and hot callender.
Cotton/Viscose blends. Fashion softener and stenter finish.
Wool feel soften and shrink press.
Worsted blends.
Hydrophilic / no softener, light stenter finish.
Technical
Spandex safe finish, to suit the target market.
Spandex blends.
FINISHING 2
Process
1.
Exhaust Softener Application
(Suitable where a stenter does not have a pad mangle.)
Cool to 40°C, adjust pH if required.
Add softener
eg : NEARFINISH MR JET
Hold 40°C x 20 min.
Drop and hydro-extract.
Stenter Finish as below.
2.
2%
Pad Softener.
(A general process.)
Set Stenter frame for width control.
Pad softener @ ~ 60% PU .
eg : NEARFINISH M88 30 g/l
Dry @ ~ 120oC x 30”
Heat Set Finish at correct tension @ 160 - 190 oC x 30”
FINISHING 2
Purpose Finishes
NEARFINISH M88
Soft silky handle.
NEARFINISH CF 511
Soft, smooth and dry.
Elastic
High twist
Imitiation Silk.
Cotton blends.
Viscose blends.
NEARFINISH MR JET
Resilient, soft, warm.
Elastic
Worsted blends.
Cot / Vis blends.
NAISTAT 1350
Hydrophilic, durable.Technical & Sportswear
Antistat, Soil release.
Spandex safe.
NEARFINISH CF 511
Hydrophilic, dry.
Elastic
NEARSOPHT BC9
Soft & full cationic.
Technical & Sportswear
Spandex safe.
Cotton blends.
Spandex safe.
FINISHING 3
SPANDEX requires special consideration.
No standard NONIONIC EMULSIFIERS should be used in
the finish recipe, including softener emulsions.
NEARSOPHT BC9
NAISTAT 1350
Low yellowing, full body cationic.
Good for cotton application.
Hydrophylic polyester finish.
Antistatic, soil release, durable.
(Not for dark shades.)
NEARFINISH CF 511
Hydrophylic elastic silicone.
Good for synthetics or cotton towel.
Use NEARCAND LT 75 on Nylon, @ 2 % owf
FINISHING 4
Some General Recipes : Pad @ 60% PU
Polyester Recipe
NAISTAT 1350 60 g/l
or
NEARFINISH CF 511
for dark shades.
For full soil release.
30 g/l
Nylon Recipe
NEARSOPHT BC9
NEARCAND LT 75
Dry hydrophilic softness.
TC Recipe
30 g/l
20 g/l
NEARSOPHT BC9
NAISTAT 1350 20 g/l
or
NEARFINISH CF 511
for dark shades.
15 g/l
30 g/l
Process Options 1
Light Weight Silk and Rayon Wovens.
Normal Process
Desize / Scour
& Relax
Pre Heat Set
Simple Process
Pre Heat Set
Desize / Scour
& Relax
Very Simple
Process
Desize / Scour
& Relax
Weight Reduce
Weight Reduce
Weight Reduce
Dye
Dye
Finish with
Dry Mild Set
Dye
Finish with
Dry Mild Set
Finish with
Full Heat Set
Example 1
Light Weight Silk
Simple Process
Pre-steam if possible.
Pad NAISTAT 1350 @
Pre Heat Set
2%
Dry @
then Set at 160oC x 30”.
Wash and scour with
Silicone & Set oil
NEARFIL FAC
0.3 g/l
Scour system
NEARPON KR
1 g/l
NEARCHEL TMC
0.5 g/l
Rinse, and refill.
Weight Reduce to calculated %WR.
Use accelerant.
~ 1 g/l
Rinse @ 90 C, then wash @ 95C with
Dispersing and
NEARGAL DN
0.5 g/l
Washing system.
NEARCLEAR VL
0.5 g/l
Hot rinse again until neutral.
Dispersing, Levelling
Dye with NEARGAL DN
1 g/l
and Sequestering.
NEARCHEL TMC
0.5 g/l
NEARGAL SD-PE
levelling problems.
RC as for WR Washing.
120oC
Desize / Scour
& Relax
Weight Reduce
Wash off
Dye
RC
Finish with
Dry Mild Set
Heat Set improver
Oil Scorch Protector
Finish by padding @ 60% PU
NEARFINISH M88 20 g/l
o
Dry @ 120 C then Set at 160oC x 40”.
Bodied Finish Softener
Example 2
Sports Wear - Spandex
Normal Process
Desize / Scour
& Relax
Pre Heat Set
Dye
RC
Finish with
Dry Mild Set
Wash, scour and relax with
NEARFIL FAC
0.2 g/l
Heat Set improver
NEARPON KR
1 g/l
NEARCHEL TMC
0.5 g/l
Oil Scorch Protector
LUBRIFIL LAF
1.5 g/l
Rinse, and refill.
Silicone & Set oil
Pad NAISTAT 1350 @ 2%
Scour system
Dry @ 120oC then Set at 195oC x 1’.
Dye with NEARGAL DN
1 g/l
Dispersing and
NEARCHEL TMC
0.5 g/l
Washing system.
NEARGAL SD-PE
levelling problems.
Rinse @ 90 C, then RC @ 90 C with
NEARCLEAR VL
Hot rinse again
Finish by exhaust @ 80oC
NAISTAT 1350
0.5 g/l
Dispersing, Levelling
and Sequestering.
4% owf
Dry @ 120oC then Set at 160oC x 40’.
Soft hydrophilic, soil release
antistatic finish.
The Products
NEARFIL FAC
LUBRIFIL LAF
NEARPON KR
NEARCHEL TMC
NEARCAND LT 75
The Process The Advantage
Dearation
Heat Setting
Scour & Dye
Scour
Scour
Dyeing
Setting & Finish
Bleach
NEARGAL DN Dyeing
NEARGAL SD-PE
Dyeing
NAISTAT 1350 Heat Setting
Finishing
NEARFINISH CF 511 Finishing
NEARSOPHT BC9
Finishing
NEARFINISH MR JET Finishing
No foam wetting.
Efficient & Antiscorch
Scour-Dye & Anticrease
Efficient Cleaning
Removal of soaps
Disaggregator
Reduce scorching
White nylon
Dispersant and cleaner.
Dispersant & Leveler
Efficient & Antiscorch
Hydrophilic, soil release
Hydrophilic, elastic
Full body cationic.
Bodied effect.