Transcript Cost of “Wrong-First-Time”

Micro Fibre Dyeing
By Roy Gordon
Dyeing 1
Key Issues
The 2 most important factors in dyeing polyester microfibres.
• Build-up properties.
• Washfastness.
Problems
BUILD-UP
Causes
1
2
WASH
FASTNESS
1
2
Depth of shade X 1/ fibre dpf.
Finer fibres need more dye.
Dye buildup properties can
vary with finer fibres.
High dye applications needed.
Washfastness relates to surface
dye. Microfibres have very
high surface area.
Remedies
DYE & AUXILIARY
SELECTION
DYE & AUXILIARY
SELECTION
Dyeing 2
Various factors
POTENTIAL
PROBLEMS
LEVEL DYEING
CREASING &
CROWS FEET
LIGHTFASTNESS
DYE COVERAGE
ABRASION
MARKS
CAUSES
REMEDIES
Dye uptake at lower temperatures.
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Faster dye uptake rate.
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Residues from preparation steps.
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Poor penetration of high twist yarns on
high density fabric.
Poor relaxed shrinkage in preparation.
Rapid temperature rise at critical heating
and cooling phases.
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High surface area exposed to light.
Microfibre mixed with conventional
fibres.
Flat and textured yarns combined.
Filaments of varying cross section.
Inadequate preparation leaving spin
finish, oils, oligomer and WR residues.
Incorrect machine type.
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Commence dyeing at lower start
temperatures.
Use slower rate of temperature rise up to
top temperature.
Use of auxiliaries to level and protect
from residues.
Compatible dye combinations.
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Control over the preparation process.
Use slower rate of temperature rise up to
top temperature.
Use of anticrease auxiliaries.
Careful selection of Dyes.
Use of UV absorbers to reduce fading.
Dye selection
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Dyeing process to improve leveling.
Use of auxiliaries to improve dyeing.
Good quality preparation.
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Correct machine type usage.
Dyeing lubricant to reduce abrasion.
Dyeing 3.
Process
Microfibre Dyeing Process: Takes account of…
Rapid strike and exhaustion on Microfibres.
Greater rate and extent of shrinkage.
Lower temperature exhaustion and shrinkage,
relative to conventional fibres.
Temp
130oC
130
2o/min
110
x 45’
2o/min
1o/min
1o/min
90
70
50
90oC
3o/min
70oC
Conventional
Microfibre
70oC
2o/min
50oC
Tip : Plait down fabric evenly
Fill @ 50 oC
Load Auxiliaries and pump.
Load buffer and dyes.
Raise temperature - Rate 1.
Raise temperature - Rate 2.
Hold at Top Temperature.
Cool at Rate 1.
Hot rinse @ 90oC
Use Rate’s 1 & 2.
RC or Wash @ 90-95oC.
Rinse
Drop cold, < 55oC.
Dyeing 4.1
Auxiliaries 1
Microfibre Dyeing Auxiliaries: Must take account of....
Fibre variations in dpf, cross section, texturising and polymer type.
Variations in dye types, helping to balance strike and migration.
The inevitable carry-over of residues and contamination into the dye bath.
NEARGAL HP-MF Dispersant and levelling agent.
New
LUBRIFIL LAF
Levels without retarding, so perfect for micofibres.
Oligomer dispersant, so minimal WR problems.
Proven in yarn package dyeing.
( See later presentation.)
Emulsifier, anticrease and compatibiliser.
Emulsifies de dusting agents and residual oils.
Enhances Heat Setting efficiency.
Reduces creasing and abrasion.
A problem solver.
Dyeing 4.2
Auxiliaries 2
NAISTAT 1350
Oil scavenger, anticrease, lubricant, finishing agent.
High affinity for polyester allows displacement of
residual oils from polyester.
Powerful lubricity to reduce abrasion and creases.
Durable finish; antistat, soil release, soft and
hydrophilic.
NEARCHEL TMC High Temperature stable sequesterant.
Suitable for preparation and bleaching.
Disaggregates dyes for penetration.
Powerful metal binding, even at high temperatures.
MATEXIL LN-RD High activity levelling agent.
For light or problem shades.
Success over Lyogen DMF, Levenol, Sunsalt LM7.
Dyeing 4.3
Auxiliary Solutions
Problems
Auxiliary Solutions
Rapid dye uptake rate.
(Actually ~ x 4)
Levelling Auxiliary
NEARGAL HP-MF New
NEARGAL SD-PE
Residues from spinning
and preparation.
Emulsifier and Scavenger
LUBRIFIL LAF
NAISTAT 1350
NEARGAL HP-MF New
LUBRIFIL LAF
NAISTAT 1350
NEARGAL DN
Poor penetration.
Oligomer Dispersant
Penetration aid
Dye Dispersant
Crease problems.
Varying filament dye uptake.
Anticrease agent
LUBRIFIL LAF
NAISTAT 1350
Levelling Auxiliary
NEARGAL SD-PE
NEARGAL HP-MF New
Dyeing 4.4
Auxiliaries 3
Some Recipes
Tip : Use high fabric rope speeds (@ 260 m/m)
Basic
(For blends or 100% polyester.)
Problem shades
(For 100% polyester.)
NEARGAL DN
0.5 – 1 g/l
LUBRIFIL LAF 2 g/l
NEARCHEL TMC
0.5 g/l
NEARGAL SD-PE
1 g/l
NEARGAL DN
0.5 – 1 g/l
NEARGAL HP-MF New 1.5 g/l
LUBRIFIL LAF
2 g/l
NEARCHEL TMC
0.5 g/l
Problem fabrics
(For 100% polyester.)
Problem fabrics and shades
(For 100% polyester.)
NEARGAL DN
NAISTAT 1350
NEARCHEL TMC
NEARGAL SD-PE
0.5 – 1 g/l
2 g/l
0.5 g/l
1.5 g/l
NEARGAL DN
0.5 - 1 g/l
NEARGAL HP-MF New 1.5 g/l
NAISTAT 1350
2 g/l
NEARCHEL TMC
0.5 g/l
Dyeing 5.1
Dyes : General
Microfibre Dye Selection: Must take account of....
Compatibility and suitability for the application.
The wash fastness requirements on medium to heavy shades.
The rapid buildup and levelling problems on fine fibres.
The mixture of fibre type in many microfibres.
Pales shades
B class dyes give :…
- the best levelness and coverage.
- compatibility in trichromatic shades.
Medium / Heavy
C class dyes give :…
- good levelness and coverage.
- good general compatibility.
- all round fastness properties.
All dye variations or incompatibilities are
exaggerated when dyeing Microfibres.
Dyeing 5.2
Buildup
Colour Build-up “rule of thumb”
: fine filaments dye light, course filaments dye dark.
Disperse Blue 56 Build-up
Fothergills equation.
120
C1
=
C2
W2
W1
C1 & C2 = % dye applied.
W1 & W2 = DPF of fibrils.
Reletive Strength
(in 1944)
100
80
60
5.6 dpf
1.4 dpf
0.57 dpf
40
20
0
0%
1%
2%
3%
4%
5%
% dye applied
6%
This equation does not take account of delustering agents, fibre cross section,
orientation or crystallinity, texturing, or finishing agents.
7%
Dyeing 5.3
Fastness
Light Fastness “rule of thumb”
: reductions of 0.5 to 1.5 point for Micro vs regular fibre.
The high surface area exposes more dye to UV light, thus reducing light fastness.
Testing : Xenotest vs wool standards.
ISO 105 B02
International
BS 1006 B02
British
DIN 54004
German
This may restrict dye selection, especially for sportswear.
Trevira Finesse
Specified @ 5
Trevira Micronesse
Specified @ 4-5
Coolmax
Specified @ ??
UV absorbers can be added to the disperse dyebath
for the highest standards.
Dyeing 5.4
Fastness
Wash Fastness : a constant problem.
THE CAUSES ?
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•
•
•
•
High surface area, means a greater amount of surface dye present.
Weight Reduced fibres have oligomer residues that can reduce fastness.
Weight Reduced fibres have a rough surface that can act as a store for
oligomer and surface dye.
WR on delusted fibres leave pores, that act as reservoirs of surface dye.
Spandex Microfibre may have silicone residues that reduce fastness.
THE REMEDIES ?
•
•
•
•
A very effective wash after Weight Reduction is essential.
A very effective high temperature Reduction Clear and wash is essential.
A double Reduction Clear may be required.
Use of wetting, penetrating and dispersing auxiliaries in both WR wash
and RC.
Reduction Clear
The WR process creates a rough semi-porous fibre surface, which can
trap large amounts of surface dye. The high surface area alone
creates wash fastness problems for microfibres.
NEARGAL DN
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High performance dispersing agent for Oligomer and Dye.
Proven performance as a machine cleaner and dispersant.
NEARCLEAR VL
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Powerful wetter, dispersant, emulsifier and detergent.
Proven performance in Reduction Clear
Lifts surface dye and disperses residues.
@ 920C x 20’
NEARGAL DN
0.5 g/l
NEARCLEAR VL 0.5 g/l
(& when ready to give up, add ..) NEARPON KR
0.3 g/l
Dyeing 5.5
Dyes :
The best dyes to use on polyester are :
Those with Identical Exhaustion Rates
Easy clearing dyes : eg
Diester dyes
Azo-Thiophene dyes
Dyeing 6
Conjugates :
With certain types of
conjugate filament….
The compliment or core polymer fibrils may “grin” through
the shade, creating a streaky, speckled and uneven look.
This mainly occurs where :
the compliment fibril is only shocked (by swelling or physical
cracking) rather than dissolving.
the complimentary fibril is a major part.
the conjugate microfibre is a major component of the fabric.
the nylon component is not structurally covered by polyester.
Regain solidity of shade by overdyeing with acid dyes.
NEARGAL LS-PA with acid dyes.
Example 1
Light Weight Silk
Simple Process
Pre-steam if possible.
Pad NAISTAT 1350 @
Pre Heat Set
2%
Dry @
then Set at 160oC x 30”.
Wash and scour with
NEARFIL FAC
0.3 g/l
NEARPON KR
1 g/l
NEARCHEL TMC
0.5 g/l
Rinse, and refill.
Weight Reduce to calculated %WR.
Use accelerant.
~ 1 g/l
Rinse @ 90 C, then wash @ 95C with
120oC
Desize / Scour
& Relax
Weight Reduce
Wash off
Dye
RC
Finish with
Dry Mild Set
NEARCLEAR VL
Hot rinse again until neutral.
Dye with NEARGAL DN
NEARCHEL TMC
NEARGAL SD-PE
RC as for WR Washing.
Heat Set improver
Oil Scorch Protector
Silicone & Set oil
Scour system
Dispersing and
Washing system.
0.5 g/l
Dispersing, Levelling
1 g/l
and Sequestering.
0.5 g/l
levelling problems.
Finish by padding @ 60% PU
NEARFINISH M88
20 g/l
o
o
Dry @ 120 C then Set at 160 C x 40”.
Bodied Finish Softener
Example 2
Sports Wear - Spandex
Normal Process
Desize / Scour
& Relax
Pre Heat Set
Wash, scour and relax with
NEARFIL FAC
0.2 g/l
NEARPON KR
1 g/l
NEARCHEL TMC
0.5 g/l
LUBRIFIL LAF
1.5 g/l
Rinse, and refill.
Pad NAISTAT 1350 @ 2%
Dry @ 120oC then Set at 195oC x 1’.
Heat Set improver
Oil Scorch Protector
Silicone & Set oil
Scour system
Dye with
Dye
RC
Finish with
Dry Mild Set
NEARGAL DN
1 g/l
Dispersing and
NEARCHEL TMC
0.5 g/l
Washing system.
NEARGAL SD-PE
leveling problems.
Rinse @ 90 C, then RC @ 90 C with
NEARCLEAR VL
Hot rinse again
Finish by exhaust @ 80oC
NAISTAT 1350
Dry @
120oC
then Set at
160oC
0.5 g/l
Dispersing, Levelling
and Sequestering.
4% owf
x 40’.
Soft hydrophIlic, soil release
antistatic finish.
The Products
NEARFIL FAC
LUBRIFIL LAF
NEARPON KR
NEARCHEL TMC
NEARCAND LT 75
The Process The Advantage
Deaeration
Heat Setting
Scour & Dye
Scour
Scour
Dyeing
Setting & Finish
Bleach
NEARGAL DN Dyeing
NEARGAL SD-PE
Dyeing
NAISTAT 1350 Heat Setting
Finishing
NEARFINISH CF 511 Finishing
NEARSOPHT BF100 Finishing
NEARFINISH M88
Finishing
No foam wetting.
Efficient & Antiscorch
Scour-Dye & Anticrease
Efficient Cleaning
Removal of soaps
Disaggregator
Reduce scorching
White nylon
Dispersant and cleaner.
Dispersant & Leveller
Efficient & Antiscorch
Hydrophilic, soil release
Hydrophilic, elastic
Full body cationic.
Bodied effect.