Transcript Li & Fung Management Trainee Programme

Legend Swimwear
Factory Limited
Product Evaluation
Dr. M.Y. Leung
Content (2 hours)
1.
2.
3.
4.
Introduction of Product Evaluation
Scope of Product evaluation
Specifications of Swimwear Fabrics
Fabric testing
 Fabric Construction
 Physical Properties
 Colorfastness Properties
Labeling
checking
Performan
ce Testing
Scope of
Evaluation
Product
Inspection
Blindstitched
hem
Matching
Pattern
Workmanship
checking
Performance Quality of Textile Products
C onstruction
D urability
A esthetic
C are
Functional
& S a fe ty
C om fort
Fibre
C om position
Tensile
S tre ng th
A ppearance
R etention
D im ension
S ta b ility
W ater
re p e lle nce
T herm al
P ro p e rty
Fabric
w eight
Tear
S tre ng th
C olorfastness
C olorfastness
Flam m ability
W ettability
Fabric
Thickness
B ursting
S tre ng th
P illing
R esistance
A ppearance
a fte r finishing
Form aldehyre
R e le a se
M oisture
R e g a in/ c o nte nt
Fabric
S ett
S eam
S tre ng th
S nagging
R esistance
W eather/
O rg a nism
re sista nc e
O thers toxic or
e nviro nm e nta l te st
A ir/ w ater
va p o r p e rm e a b ility
Y a rn C o unt
S eam
S lip p a g e
D ra p ing
O the r Y a rn
C ha ra c te ristic s
A b ra sio n
R e sista nce
D im e nsio n
S ta b ility
H a nd le
Performance Tests for Swimwear??
What suggestion for Care Label??
Swimwear fabrics

Knits specializing on stretchable & functional knits
Swimwear Fabrics

Exit
Pigment print, pigment discharge print, rubber print, burn-out
print, puff print
Back to Overall
Products
Stretch woven fabrics with Embroidery
Exit
Back to Overall
Care-label for Swimwear





Wash in warm water (40°C)
Do not bleach
Do not iron
Do not dry-clean/ No dry-clean
Do not tumble dry/ Flat dry/ Hang dry
Specification and Standard

Throughout the world there are
numerous organizations to
develop standard test methods
and regulations to control the
performance quality of textile.

Uniformity of standards are with a
growing need.

International standards to
alleviate some of the problems
faced by manufacturers that
export or import from foreign
manufacturers are necessary.
Sources of Standards
Product
Spec
Company
Standard
National Standards
International Standards
International Standards

International Used Standards:

The International Organization for
Standardization (ISO)

British Standards (BS)

American Association of Textile Chemists and
Colorists (AATCC)

Japanese Industrial Standards (JIS)

European Committee for Standardization (CEN)
What are the specifications for
Swimwear?
Are there any difference between
swimwear and other knitted and woven
fabrics?
What make the difference?
Specification for Knitted and Woven Beachwear
(ASTM D 4154)
Characteristics
Requirement
Knitted
Breaking strength ASTM D5034
Bursting strength ASTM D 3787 (bursting
attachment)
Yarn slippage, 6mm (separation) ASTM D 434
Tearing Strength ASTM D 1424
Dimensional Change AATCC 135
 Pressing and finishing
 After 5 launderings (shrinkage > 3%)testing stretch
 Growth ASTM D 2594
Colourfastness
 Burnt Gas Fumes – 2 cycles AATCC 23
Shade change from original fabric
Shade change after 1 laundering
222N
Woven
111N (25 lbf)
-
-
89N (20lbf)
6.7 N (1.5lbf)
2% max
3% max
1% max (pre-finished)
2% max (post-finished)
3% max
3% max
Class 4
Class 4
Class 4
Class 4
Specification for Knitted and Woven
Beachwear (ASTM D 4154)
Characteristics
Colourfastness
Laundering: colour change AATCC 61
staining
Crocking: Dry AATCC 116
Wet
Perspiration: Shade Change AATCC 15
Staining
Light (40 AATCC FU) (Xenon-arc) AATCC 16
Water: Chlorinated
Fabric Appearance AATCC 124, AATCC 96
Flammability FFA Part 1610
Requirement
Knitted
Woven
Class 4
Class 3
Class 4
Class 3
Class 4
Class 3
Class 4
Class 4
DP 3.5
Pass
Class 4
Class 3
Class 4
Class 3
Class 4
Class 3
Class 4
Class 4
DP 3.5
Pass
Specification for Knitted Swimwear (ASTM D 3996)
Characteristics
Requirement
Test
Bursting strength (Ball bursting)
Dimensional Change
Laundering
Non-stretch
Stretch
Wet relaxation or growth
Dry relaxation or growth
Colourfastness
 Burnt Gas Fumes – 1 cycles
- Shade change from original fabric and after 1
laundering cycle
-Sodium Hypochlorite bleach
-Non-chlorine bleach
 Laundering
Shade change
Staining
ASTM D 3787
Requirement
30 lbf (133N)
AATCC 135
5% max
7.5% max
10% max
5% max
AATCC 23
Class 4
AATCC 188
AATCC 172
AATCC 61
Class 4
Class 4
Class 4
Class 3
Specification for Knitted and Woven
Beachwear (ASTM D 4154)
Characteristics
Requirement
Test
Colourfastness
Crocking: Dry
Wet
Perspiration: Shade Change
Staining
Sea water: Shade Change
Ozone: Shade change
Light (40 AATCC FU) (Xenon-arc)
Flammability FFA Part 1610
AATCC 8 (solid)/
AATCC 116 (print)
AATCC 15
AATCC 106
AATCC 129
AATCC 16
Requirement
Class 4
Class 3
Class 4
Class 3
Class 4
Class 3
Class 4
Pass
Buyer’s Specification for Knitted Swimwear
Characteristics
Test
Mass per square meter
Force & Elongation
Dimensional Change (Drying tumble)
Colourfastness
 Nitrogen Oxide
Artificial Light
Washing at 40°C
Water
Sea water
Chlorinated water
Perspiration
Dry Rubbing
Wet Rubbing
Fibre Composition
Requirement
ISO 3801
ISO 5077
BS 4294
±3%
±10%
±3%
ISO 105G/01
ISO 105B/02
ISO 105C06
4/5
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
¾
±3%
ISO 105E01
ISO 105E02
ISO 105E03
ISO 105E04
ISO 105X12
ISO 105X12
ISO 1833
What are the different
between testing
swimwear/fabrics and
commercial apparel
fabrics?
Fabric with Stretch




Most fabrics used for
swimwear are elastic
By insertion of Spandex/
Lycra etc.
All elastic yarns are covered
with a layers of fibres/
filaments
Two ways of covering: airjet and wrapping
Fabric Analysis

Standard Conditions:

Pre-conditioned:
Stored the specimen in chamber with
Temperature < 50°C

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


Relative humidity: 10 to 25 %
Conditioned:
BS: 20±2°C and RH% 65±2%
ASTM: 21±1°C and RH% 65±2%
What types of tests are required to carry out in controlled
condition?
Fabric Analysis


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

Standard Conditions:
Pre-conditioned:
Conditioned:
BS: 20±2°C and RH% 65±2%
ASTM: 21±1°C and RH% 65±2%
What types of tests are required to carry out in
controlled condition?
Tensile Strength




For fabric with stretch < 11%
To obtain the breaking load and elongation at break of
a textile fabric
Grab test: 1-inch grab (ASTM D 5034, JIS L 1096, ISO
13934-2:99)
Strip test: 2-inch strip test (ASTM D5035, JIS L 1096,
ISO 13934-1)
clamp
3 inches
Grab Test
Strip Test
200
mm
clamp
Tensile Strength
Load and Elongation Curve
Tearing Strength


Tearing strength refers to the force required to break a
group of yarns (max. up to 3 pieces) together by tearing
off the fabric.
There are various types of tearing depends on
application.
Tearing Strength



Elmendorf
Only for warp-direction of
warp knit and woven
 ASTM D1424-96
 JIS L 1096
Tongue Tear
 Single rip
 ASTM D 2261-96
 JIS L 1096
Elmendorf Tearing Strength



Criteria:
The tearing strength
must be within 80% of
the centre capacity.
What happen if the
tearing load is at the
95% of the max
loading?
Release the weight to
tear off the fabric
Bursting Strength (most common for
knitted fabrics)




Bursting is radial or multi-directional breaking
strength.
There are two types of bursting strength: ball
bursting and hydraulic bursting.
Multi-directional force from a steel ball is push
up the fabric held in flat until rupture.
Multi-directional force from pressure of an
inflated diaphragm is applied on fabric until
rupture.
Bursting Strength
Bursting Strength



Diaphragm bursting
For knitted swimwear or woven swimwear with stretch >
20%
ISO 13938-1:99/BS 4768, ASTM D 3786-87



Ballistic ball bursting
For high strength fabric or high stretch fabric
ASTM D 3787-80
Bursting Strength



Radial extension
Hydraulic diaphragm
bursting
Bursting pressure
= P(f+d) - P(d)
Fabric Stretch



Stretched the fabric
in defined load/
length
Keep the stretched
fabric for defined
time
Measure the change
of L
L
Fabric Stretch and Growth
Stretch = (L2 – L1) x 100%
L1
L2: extended length
under load
L1: original length
L2
L1
Fabric Stretch and Growth
Growth = (L3 – L1) x 100%
L1
L3: extended length
after released
L1: original length
L3
L1
Dimensional Changes of Fabric after
Home Laundering
Dimensional Stability

Maintenance of the shape and dimensions of a textile
product can be a significant factor in its acceptance by
consumers.

Terminology:

“Refurbishing” is used to describe any of a number of
process that textiles may undergo to remove soil and
stains and to restore the appearance of the items.

Two most common refurbishing methods are
“laundering” and “dry-cleaning”.
Dimensional Stability

Refurbishing

A) Laundering


It is based on the use of water as a solvent

Water is effective in dissolving water-based spots and stains

Detergents are laundering aids used to enhance cleaning
B) Dry-cleaning

It requires the use of organic solvents to dissolve oily soils and stains,
such as body oils, waxes, fats and makeup

Because only a minimal amount of water is used, fibres do not swell
significantly and therefore, do not shrink as much.
Dimensional Stability

Dimensional stability refers to a fabric’s ability to resist a
change in its dimensions.

A fabric or garment may exhibit shrinkage or growth under
conditions of refurbishing.

Items are especially affected by the moisture and heat used
in washing, tumble drying, and in steaming and pressing.

There are various ways that need to shrinkage occur when
textiles are subjected to heat and/or moisture.
What are the causes of Dimensional
Instability?

Relaxation Shrinkage:

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Progressive Shrinkage
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Dimensional change that continues through successive washing
Growth


Results of relaxation of stress of fabric
Shrinks in length results grow in width
Yarn Reduction/ Thermal shrinkage

It occurs in thermoplastic fibres.

Upon imposition of heat, fabrics/polymer molecules move more
randomly, nonlinear form and thus decrease the length
Relaxation Shrinkage

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
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Dry state: Yarns are stretched and
temporarily set.
Release of strains
Energy released
Irreversible
Need several washings to min & stable
energy level.
Causes of stretching (Woven)



Warping
Weaving
Wet-finishing, dyeing printing etc.
Causes of Extension (Knitted)


Take-down tension of the knitting m/c
Sewing or spreading of the knitted goods
Fibre Level: Progressive
Progressive Shrinkage
 Fibre Swelling
 Fibre movement within the
textile structure
What causes progressive
shrinkage more serious?
 Alkaline medium
 Higher temperature
 Greater freedom of
movement.
How does fibre swelling would lead to
fabric shrinkage?



Fibre swelling
Yarn
swelling
Balance of force
If so, how to solve the
problem of shrinkage due to
fibre swelling?
Contraction of Yarn




Decrease in length of yarn
Normally by heat/ high temperature
Synthetic filament is most sensitive
How to reduce the shrinkage situation?
Dimensional Stability
Shrinkage Measurement
 BS 5807/ BS 4923
 AATCC 135 (fabric)
 AATCC 61 (garment)
 Report on 1st and last washes
 Benchmarks the length of 50cm or 25cm
apart for both warp and weft directions
 Measure the dimension of products after
treatment
Shrinkage % = Original - after wash x 100%
Original length
Growth is positive
Shrinkage is negative
Dimensional Instability
Results Interpretation




For apparel products, the required maximum
shrinkage or growth usually are dependent on
types of products.
For woven fabrics: usually maximum shrinkage
after laundering is 2.0 to 3.0%
For knitted fabrics: allowance for shrinkage is
higher, usually 5.0%
For stretch fabric: allowance for shrinkage will
be higher.
Colorfastness
AATCC Definition of Colorfastness
 Resistance of a material to any change in any of
its color characteristics,
 Transfer of its colorants to adjacent, or both
 after exposure to any environment
Color Loss during daily uses

Frosting


Bleeding


Fading
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Yellowing

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Crocking

Color leaves the surface of fabric due
to abrasion. (Detaches)
Migration of color from wet fabric
into water and then to others.
Lightening of color due to loss or
breakdown of dye.
The change of color base to a very
yellow version of a color.
Transfer of a color to another surface
through rubbing
Bleeding piping
50
Color loss in
drycleaning
51
Frosting
52
Light fading
53
Evaluation of Color change/
Staining (Visual Assessment)

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Gray Scale for Color Change
Gray Scale for Staining
Chromatic Scale
Blue Wool Standard (Light Fastness)
Gray Scale for Color Change

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Nine steps of color difference by stationary pairs of gray
chips
Half step rating
5 indicates no difference (two gray chips with same color)
1 indicates extreme difference
Neutral gray = 12 ±1%
Evaluation & Report
1) Grey Scale for Assessing Variation of Colour
AATCC Test Method 15 – 2002:
Gray Scale for Colour Change
Fabric Sample Size: 6 x 6 cm
Solution: Acid Perspiration
GRADE *
Original
fabric
colour
Fabric colour
after
colourfastness
perspiration test
GRAY SCALE
5
No change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 5
4.5
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 4-5
4
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 4
3.5
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 3-4
3
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 3
2.5
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 2.3
2
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 2
1.5
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 1-2
1
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 1
*5
= no colour difference
1 = highest degree of colour difference
Gray Scale for Staining

Nine pairs of white and gray color chips.

Half step rating

5 indicates no difference (2 white chips)

1 indicates extreme difference

Rating is based on the color difference of the gradually
increase darkness gray chip and the white chip
Evaluation & Report
2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining
Original colour
of multifiber test
fabric
Multifiber test
fabric colour after
colourfastness
perspiration test
Multi-fibre Fabric
Warp: Filament Dacron 55
Weft: multi-fibre fabric
 Acetate
 Cotton
 Nylon
 Polyester
 Acrylic
 Wool
Evaluation & Report
2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining
AATCC Test Method 15 – 2002: Colourfastness to Perspiration
AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale
Multifiber Test Fabric
Solution: Acid Perspiration
GRADE
GRAY SCALE
5
Negligible or no color transfer
4.5
Color transfer equivalent to Step 4-5 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
4
Color transfer equivalent to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
3.5
Color transfer equivalent to Step 3-4 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
3
Color transfer equivalent to Step 3 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
2.5
Color transfer equivalent to Step 2-3 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
2
Color transfer equivalent to Step 2 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
1.5
Color transfer equivalent to Step 1-2 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
1
Color transfer equivalent to Step 1 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
Visual Assessment Method

Light Sources:



Daylight D-65
(North Sky light)
White fluorescent/
UV
Viewing angle:


Specimen is 45°
from horizontal
Viewing
perpendicular to the
specimen
Color fastness to Laundering



Sewn the specimen to a
white cotton fabric/ multifibre fabric
Wash using the
LaunderOmeter
Assessment:
 Color change (Grey scale
for color change)
 Staining (Grey scale for
staining)
Colorfastness to Laundering
LaunderOmeter
Wash Test ISO 105-C06
Test no.
Temp pH
. °C
Liquor 4g/l Cl %
detergent
Sodium
perborate
No. of
steel balls
single 30
mins
No. of steel
balls multiple
45 mins
A1
40
150
0
0
0
10
A2
40
150
0
1
0
10
B1
50
150
0
0
0
50
B2
50
150
0
1
0
50
C1
60
10.5
50
0
0
25
50
C2
60
10.5
50
0
1
25
50
D1
70
10.5
50
0
0
25
100
D2
70
10.5
50
0
1
25
100
D3
70
10.5
50
0.015
0
25
100
E1
95
10.5
50
0
0
25
100
E2
95
10.5
50
0
1
25
100
Color Fastness to Crocking

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
Rub the fabric with a
white cotton fabric
10 cycles in 10 seconds
Dry rubbing
Wet rubbing
Assessment on mainly
on staining
Colorfastness to Perspiration/
Water/ Sea Water
Perspirometer

It is designed to
determine the colour
fastness of textiles to
perspiration, water, sea
water.

BS 1006, BS EN 20105,
ISO 105, AATCC 15
Procedures
1) Soak test 6 X 6 cm specimen in
the perspiration solution for 30
±2min.
2) Pass specimen through
wringer
3) Weight specimen. Should
be 2.25 ±.05 times the
original dry weight.
Procedures
4) Place assembled multi-fiber fabric
& specimen on a glass plate.
5) Place the plates in the perspiration
tester to provide uniform contact
between the multi-fiber & fabric
sample under a standard load.
Then, secure the pressure plate
6) Heat loaded specimen
into oven at 38ºC for
6hr
7) Place in conditioned
atmosphere overnight
(21ºC, 65% RH).
Evaluation & Report
1) Grey Scale for Assessing Variation of Colour
AATCC Test Method 15 – 2002:
Gray Scale for Colour Change
Fabric Sample Size: 6 x 6 cm
Solution: Acid Perspiration
GRADE *
Original
fabric
colour
Fabric colour
after
colourfastness
perspiration test
GRAY SCALE
5
No change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 5
4.5
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 4-5
4
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 4
3.5
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 3-4
3
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 3
2.5
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 2.3
2
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 2
1.5
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 1-2
1
A change as shown in Gray Scale, Step 1
*5
= no colour difference
1 = highest degree of colour difference
Evaluation & Report
2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining
Original colour
of multifiber test
fabric
Multifiber test
fabric colour after
colourfastness
perspiration test
Evaluation & Report
2) Grey Scale for Assessing Colour Staining
AATCC Test Method 15 – 2002: Colourfastness to Perspiration
AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale
Multifiber Test Fabric
Solution: Acid Perspiration
GRADE
GRAY SCALE
5
Negligible or no color transfer
4.5
Color transfer equivalent to Step 4-5 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
4
Color transfer equivalent to Step 4 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
3.5
Color transfer equivalent to Step 3-4 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
3
Color transfer equivalent to Step 3 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
2.5
Color transfer equivalent to Step 2-3 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
2
Color transfer equivalent to Step 2 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
1.5
Color transfer equivalent to Step 1-2 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
1
Color transfer equivalent to Step 1 on the Gray Scale for Staining.
Color fastness to Light



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

Using the Blue Wool
standard for assessment
By grade
ISO 105 B02
BS 1006 D01
By fading unit
AATCC 16E
Assessment for Light Fastness


Measurement of Colorfastness to light for AATCC
standard is measured the fading units.
Specimen = grayscale G4, ? Step of bluewool it is?
L2
L3
L4
L5
4
?
L6
L7
L8
L9
Assessment for Light Fastness


Before exposure to the Xenon light source, the light
source is required to be checked by the Blue Wool
Standard
Standard hours, specimen = Grayscale ? Step
?
10 to 40 hours
Flammability standards for normal
wearing apparel
Standards


Class 1: Normal flammability (suitable for clothing).

Flame spread is 3.5 seconds or more for non-raised fibre
fabrics

Flame spread is 7.0 seconds or more for raised fibre
fabrics.
Class 2: Intermediate flammability.


Flame spread is from 4 to 7 seconds and the base fabric
ignites or fuses.
Class 3: Rapid and intense burning (unsuitable for clothing).

Flame spread is 3.5 seconds or less for non-raised fibre
fabrics

Flame spread is less than 4.0 seconds for raised fibre
fabrics.
Flammability Test (45°)


Time required for the flame to proceed up to a distance
of 5 in (127 mm) is recorded.
The automatic timer can be stopped by breaking the
stop cord at 5 inches length from the starting position.
45°
Fire source
Timer
Cotton
string
END
Product Evaluation