Transcript Understanding Guide Sheets

Understanding The Guide
Sheet
Grain Line
 Indicates the placement of pattern piece on
the fabric grain. Grain line must be placed
exactly parallel to the selvage.
 Selvage is the fabric edge that will not ravel or
fray.
 Use tape measure to make sure grain line is
parallel to selvage when pinning pattern in
place.
Place on fold/Fold line
 Double arrowed bracket symbol that indicates
the solid line be placed on the fold of the fabric.
 Usually seen at center front or back.
Dots, Squares, or Triangles
 Used to match fabric pieces together – show us
what to sew together and where.
 They are especially helpful in areas requiring
easing like sleeves.
 May be within garment piece to indicate
placement of details like pockets or zippers.
Notches
 Used for matching seams and joining garment
pieces.
 Should extend beyond the cutting line.
Cut
Garment
Double & Triple Notches
 Cut them as one long block
Cut
Garment
 On multi-sized patterns the notches often
appear as triangles.
 These notches should be cut out and away or
with tiny snips to indicate where the notches are
located.
Stitching line
 Broken line usually 5/8” from cutting line.
 Indicates where to stitch fabric pieces together
 Seam allowance – distance between stitching
line and cutting line.
 “Stitch” on the guide sheet means the standard
seam allowance of 5/8”. If it is another seam
allowance it will tell you.
 Will not be indicated on multi-sized patterns.
Seam allowance
Darts
 Triangular folds of fabric used to control fullness.
 Fold on the solid line, stitch on the broken lines.
Stitching Line
Fold Line
Adjustment lines
 Indicates where pattern can be lengthened or
shortened.
Shorten or lengthen here
Additional Information
 On each pattern piece you will find:
 Number of pieces to cut
 Pattern piece name/number or letter
 Size
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Guide Sheet
 Gives you step-by-step information for cutting,
marking, and sewing the fabric pieces together.
 Main sections of the guide sheet are view
selection, cutting layouts and sewing
instructions.
 In the cutting layout section, you will find the
“Use pieces” information to determine which
pattern pieces go with which view to be
constructed.
 Also included are sketches and special
information.
Special
instructions
Sketch of
garment
Pieces to use for
Each design
Cutting Layout
Sketch of
Pattern pieces
Select your layout
diagram based on
the view you are
making, your fabric
width, fabric type,
and size.
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Circle the layout for
easy reference.
Fabric Grains
Selvage – two finished edges, do not ravel or fray
Lengthwise grain – runs in the same direction as
the selvage, strongest threads.
Crosswise grain – runs across fabric
from one selvage to the other,
usually has slight stretch.
Bias – runs diagonally across the
fabric. Has the most stretch.
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Fabric Folds
Lengthwise fold
 Fold fabric in half lengthwise
with right sides together.
 As fabric comes off bolt at
store
 Fold should form cut/raw
edge to cut/raw edge.
 “Hot Dog Fold”
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Crosswise Fold
Fold fabric in half
crosswise with right sides
together.
Fold should be from
selvage to selvage.
“Hamburger Fold”
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Center/Double Fold
Fold fabric twice along
the lengthwise grain,
right sides together.
Selvages should meet in
the middle
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Partial Fold
Fold fabric on the
lengthwise grain,
right sides together,
only wide enough
to fit the widest
pattern piece that is
to be placed on
fold.
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Placement of Pattern Pieces
Place the pieces on the fold or the largest pattern
pieces on first.
Place all pattern pieces on fabric before pinning any to
fabric.
Refer to pattern piece for number of fabric pieces to
cut.
Follow layout diagram exactly to maximize fabric use.
When a pattern piece is shaded, that indicates it should
be placed printed side down.
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Placement of Pattern Pieces
Pattern pieces should be pinned perpendicular to the
cutting edge every 6” – 8”. More pins may be required
in curved areas.
Cut out pieces using long, smooth strokes to avoid
jagged edges.
Leave pattern pieces attached to fabric until ready to
sew.
Transfer dots/squares and dart markings using the
marking method of your choice.
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Sewing instructions
Follow the sequence exactly
Read the written directions.
Review the pictorial directions.
Refer to the special sewing information.
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