Acrylic (Methacrylate) Nails
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Transcript Acrylic (Methacrylate) Nails
ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE)
NAILS
Module 28
EDITOR’S NOTE
All
artificial nail enhancements products
are based on ingredients from the acrylic
family
Sub-branch called “methacrylate”
Two-part liquid and powder enhancement
systems
“Acrylic”
– general term for large group of
ingredients
Liquid
and powder artificial nail
enhancements products based on the
methacrylate subcategory
Two-part liquid and powder enhancement
system referred to as acrylic
(methacrylate) nails
INTRODUCTION
Acrylic
(methacrylate) nail enhancements
created by combining:
monomer liquid
polymer powder
Liquid
and powder system
MONOMER
“Mono”
means “one”
“Mer” stands for “units”
Monomer is one unit called a “molecule”
POLYMER
“Poly”
means “many
“Mer” stands for “units”
Polymer means “many units” or “many
molecules”
“LIQUID AND POWDER NAIL
ENHANCEMENTS”
Applied
Natural nail as protective overlay
Over nail tip
Sculpted to extend natural nail using a flexible
form
Natural
three basic ways
hair brush best to apply products
Sable is best
Brush
immersed in monomer liquid
Natural hair bristles absorb and hold
monomer like a reservoir
Tip of brush touched to surface of dry
polymer powder
Monomer
absorbs polymer – small bead is
formed
Bead is carefully placed on the nail
surface and molded into shape with brush
Liquid
is usually made from ethyl
methacrylate monomer
Can contain other monomers used as
customizing additives
Polymer
powder is also made ethyl
methacrylate monomer
Polymer powder is made using a special
chemical reaction called polymerization
Process
Trillions of monomers linked together to create
long chains
Long chains create tiny beads of polymer used
to create certain types of artificial nails
Special
additives blended into both liquid
and powder
Ensure complete set or cure
Maximum durability
Color stability
Shelf life
Liquid
is picked up by brush and mixed
with the powder
Bead forms on the end of brush and quickly
hardens
To happen special additives called catalysts
Catalyst
Additive designed to speed up chemical
reactions
Added to monomer liquid
Used to control the set or curing time
Monomer
liquid and polymer powder
combined the catalyst helps control the
set-up or hardening time
Energizes and activates the initiators
Initiators start a chain reaction that
leads to the creation of fantastically long
polymer chains
Polymerization
process begins the second
the liquid in the brush picks up powder
from the container and forms a bead
Dominos
INITIATOR
Added
to polymer is called benzoyl
peroxide (BPO)
Over the counter acne medicine
Different purpose in nail enhancements
BPO
used to start chain reaction that
leads to curing (hardening)
Some
monomers require more BPO than
others
Use polymer powder designed for use with
monomer liquid
Using wrong powder can create enhancements
that are not properly cured
Could increase risk of client developing skin
sensitivity or irritation
ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL
ENHANCEMENTS USING FORMS
Polymer
powders
Many colors
Basic pink
White
Clear
Natural
Used
alone
Customized colors – blended
Shades of pink
Match or enhance nail beds
Bold primaries
Pastels
Wide range of designs and patterns
SUPPLIES FOR ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE)
NAIL ENHANCEMENTS
Acrylic
(methacrylate) nail enhancements
created by combining acrylic
(methacrylate) monomer liquid with
polymer powder
Acrylic (methacrylate) monomer liquid
Here’s a tip pp 753 / 901
MIX RATIO
Amount
of monomer liquid and polymer
powder used to create a bead
“Dry Bead”
Equal
“Wet
amounts of liquid and powder
Bead”
Twice as much liquid as powder
“Medium
Bead”
50% more liquid than powder
Ideal mix ratio
Typically
ensures proper set and
maximum durability of enhancements
Too much powder
Brittleness
discoloration
Too
little powder
Weak
Risk developing skin irritation and
sensitivity
ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) POLYMER
POWDER
Choose
color depends on methods used
NAIL DEHYDRATOR
Apply
liberally to natural nail plate only
Avoid skin contact
Remove surface moisture and tiny
amounts of oil
Both can block adhesion
Here’s a tip pp 753
NAIL PRIMER
Acid-based
primers (methacrylic acid)
Corrosive to skin
Potentially dangerous to eyes
Not used much nowadays
“Acid
free” and “nonacid” primer
developed in wide use today
Caution box pp 754
Read
mfg directions
Refer to MSDS for safe handling
recommendations and instructions
ACID-BASED PRIMERS
Relatively
dry brush
Using a light dotting action
Carefully dab the brush tip to center of
properly prepared nail
Primer will spread out and cover nail
plate
Avoid product running into skin
Causing burns/injuries
Read
mfg. suggested use and precautions
NON-ACID AND ACID-FREE NAIL PRIMERS
Slightly
damp brush
Ensure nail plate is completely covered
Avoid too much product
Running onto skin
Causing skin irritation/sensitivity
Treat
2 -3 nails before dipping back into
container
Read mfg suggested application
procedures and precautions
ABRASIVES
Medium
grit
180 – 240
Natural nail prep and shaping
Smoothing
Fine
grit
350 or higher
buffing
3
way buffer
Create shine for no polish
Coarser
grit
Lower grit
Avoid using
Can damaged fresh nail enhancement
Acrylics
strength
can take 24 – 48 hours till peak
NAIL FORMS
Placed
under free edge
Used to extend nail enhancements beyond
fingertip
Creates additional strength
Extra boxes on PP 902 - 903
NAIL TIPS
Pre-formed
extensions
Wide variety
Shapes
Styles
colors
NAIL ADHESIVE
Cyanoacrylate
monomers
Each types uses different customized
additives to enhance
Set times
Strength
Other properties
Small
size bottle
Short shelf life
6 months after date of purchase
Depends on storage and usage
Obtain
maximum shelf life
Close cap securely
Set upright
Store out of direct sunlight
Room temperature - 60º - 85º
Nail
adhesive may harden in tube and
need to be thrown away
DAPPEN DISH
Poured
into special holder
Monomer
Polymer
Small narrow openings – minimize
evaporation
Do
not use open-mouthed jars or
containers with large openings
Must be covered with a tightly fitting lid
when not in use
NEVER
pour unused portion back into
original container
contaminated
Avoid
skin contact with monomer to avoid
skin sensitivity or irritation
Wipe clean with acetone
Store in a dust free location
NAIL BRUSH
Sable
hair
Synthetic/less expensive brushes do not
pick up monomer or do not release liquid
properly
Avoid overly large brushes –
Hold excessive amount of liquid
Risk touching client’s skin with monomer
May increase risk of developing skin irritation
or sensitivities
SAFETY EYEWEAR
Protect
eyes from flying objects
Accidental splashes
DUST MASKS AND PROTECTIVE GLOVES
Dust
masks
Worn over nose/mouth to prevent inhalation
off excessive amounts of dust
Provide NO protection from vapors
Gloves
ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL
ENHANCEMENTS PRE-SERVICE
Complete
pre-service sanitation and
disinfection procedure (ch. 25, pp 672/817)
Wash implements
Rinse implements
Immerse implements
Wash hands with liquid soap
Rinse and dry implements
Set
up standard manicuring table
Greet
client and direct to wash hands
with liquid soap and warm water
Perform client consultation
APPLICATION OF ACRYLIC
(METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS
USING FORMS
Pages
757 – 761
FYI pp 762
Pages
912 - 915
ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL
ENHANCEMENTS POST-SERVICE
Make
another appointment
Take-home product recommendation
Clean up around table
Clean brush
Store acrylic products
Discard used materials
Clean table - clean and disinfect
implements and multiuse tools
ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE) NAIL
ENHANCEMENTS OVER NAIL TIPS OR
NATURAL NAILS
Pages
763 – 766
Caution box pp 766
Pages
– 908 - 911
MAINTENANCE AND REMOVAL OF ACRYLIC
(METHACRYLATE) NAIL ENHANCEMENTS
Regular
maintenance prevents nail
enhancements from lifting or cracking
If lifting/breaking greater risk of infection
and other problems
Full and proper rebalance must be
performed every 2 – 3 weeks
REBALANCING
Method
for maintaining the beauty,
durability, and longevity of artificial nail
enhancements
Do not let clients go too long without
proper rebalance - more repairs
Nail is thinned down –apex of nail
removed – entire nail enhancement
reduced in thickness
Procedure pages 768 – 769 / 916 - 918
Caution box page 769 / 917
CRACK REPAIR
Addition
of enhancement product to repair
cracks
Similar procedure to rebalance
Procedures – page 770 / 919 - 920
REMOVAL
Perform
as soon as possible after request
is made
Procedure pp 771 921 - 922
Condition surrounding skin with nail
oil/lotion
ODORLESS ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE)
PRODUCTS
Same
chemistry as all other monomer
liquid and polymer powder
Instead of using ethyl acrylic
(methacrylate) – rely on monomers with
little odor
Must be used with a dry ix ratio
If
Equal parts liquid to powder in bead
too wet – skin irritation /sensitivity
“snowy – appearing” bead on brush
Lift brush and tap gently to remove excess
powder
Never
rewet the brush with monomer
Will dilute the enhancement product
already placed on nail
Create wrong mix ratio
Odorless harder more slowly
Creates tacky layer - “inhibition” layer
After hardening – remove using alcohol,
acetone or mfg. product
Can be filed away
Avoid skin contact
COLORED ACRYLIC (METHACRYLATE)
POWDERS
Limited
only by your imagination
Maintain recipe cards so they can be
reproduced
Create customized nail enhancements
Pay a few dollars more for the special
service