Transcript Document 7181289

CHAPTER 11
STOCKS AND SAUCES
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Pretest
• What is mirepoix and why is it added to stock?
• Compare & contrast a stock and a broth.
• List 3 differences in the production of a white
stock and a brown stock.
• Name three of the classic “mother” or leading
sauces.
• Lowfat sauce made from vegetables or fruit is
called ______.
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Stocks
• Stock
Flavored liquid
Key to a great soup, sauce, or braised dish
Foundation for many classic and modern dishes:
“Dirty rice, Chix breast sauté w/ roasted red pepper sauce, Chicken
stuffed w/ spinach & ricotta cheese in safffron sauce”
White stock
Brown stock
Fish stock and fumet (foo-MAY)
Court bouillon
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
White Stock
Ingredients – page 200
Yield: 2 gal.(8 lt)
Bones: veal, chix, beef 15 lb
Cold water:
3 gal
Mirepoix:
2 lb
Sachet:
bay leaves
2
dried thyme
½ tsp
peppercorns
½ tsp
parsley stems
8
Fat free & very low sodium
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Mirepoix Ingredients
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
White Stock
Method
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1. Cut washed bones in pieces 3-4 inches
2. Cover bones with cold water, bring water to
boil, reduce & simmer, skim scum frequently &
discard.
3. Add mirepoix & sachet to simmering stock
4. Continue simmering & skimming for 6-8 hrs
5. Strain, cool and refrigerate
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Simmering
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Brown Stock
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Variation – making brown stock
1. First roast bones to caramelize then remove bones to
stockpot; reserve fat.
2. Deglaze the roasting pan with part of water
3. Add deglazing liquid & rest of cold water to bones. Bring
to a boil & reduce to simmer & frequently skim the scum
4. Add portion of reserved fat to roasting pan & sauté the
mirepoix until evenly browned (carmelized). Then add
to the simmering stock.
5. Add tomato paste & sachet to stock & simmer 6-8 hrs.
6. Strain, cool, refrigerate – review the principles for cooling
a liquid.
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Principles of Stock Making
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Start the stock in cold water
Simmer the stock gently
Skim the stock frequently
Strain the stock carefully using a chinois or
china cap (p 80)
• Cool the stock quickly
• Store the stock properly – frozen in cubes or
quart containers, label & date
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Fish stock or fish fumet
differs from white stock
• Uses fish bones or crustacean shells
• Mushroom trimmings
Other ingredients same a white stock
Fish Fumet: “sweat” the vegetables first over
low heat in small amt fat; do not brown.
Food releases moisture & flavor which is
then added to other foods.
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Commercial Bases
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A commercially produced product
Available in powdered, paste, or cube form
Generally considered inferior to a well-made stock
Check the label for salt content, which is generally
high – but specialty bases exist- Edam bases
• Possibility of saving labor costs
• Shifts risk for contamination to manufacturer
• You may taste an excellent example
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Other Foundation Items
• Court bouillon – simmer vegetables & seasonings in
water & acidic liquid such as vinegar or wine. Used to
poach fish or vegetables
• Nage – add herbs & aromatic seasonings to reduced &
strained court bouillon – use as a sauce or broth with
seafood
• Glaze – dramatic reduction & concentration of a stock –
1 gallon stock makes 1-2 cups
• Broth – flavorful liquid made from simmering meat
and/or vegetables
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Techniques to know, see, do
Purpose: increase flavor
healthfully
• Carmelize - sugars
• Deglaze – dissolve food particles from sauté or
roasting pan pan
• Reduction – concentrate & strengthen flavors
through evaporation – by ½ or >
• Gelatinization: starch granules absorb moisture
when placed in liquid & heated (↑ mouth feel)
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Sauces
• Thickened liquid plus seasoning; used to flavor
and enhance other foods; fine sauces distinguish a
restaurant
• Fine sauces are made by
Using well-made stocks (vs a base)
Using thickening techniques properly (tempering eggs,
adding cool roux to hot sauce or hot roux to cold stock)
Use seasonings properly (dried herbs & spices added at
beginning of cooking, add fresh herbs last, proper
substitution of dried for fresh)
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
White, Blond, & Brown Roux
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Thickening Agents
• Roux - = parts by wt of flour & fat cooked together to form a paste; cooking starch in
the fat before adding liquid breaks down starch molecules & prevents some of the
gelatinization. What type of flour has more starch & is best for roux?
White (cook few minutes)– used for béchamel sauce
Blond – (cook longer) used for velouté sauce
Brown – (cook longest) nutty flavor, used for brown sauce
Roux should be stiff
• Incorporating Roux into a liquid
Cold stock into a hot roux or room temperature roux into a hot stock
Then continue cooking to remove raw taste
• Beurre Manié – like roux but with butter & flour
• Liaison – use eggs & heavy cream
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Thickening Agents
• Cornstarch- Gelatinization (G) – Asian, glossy
sheen, less stable than roux
• Arrowroot- G – clearer finish, more stable than
cornstarch – good for strawberry pie
• Coulis - puree vegetables to provide a smooth,
thick mouthfeel • Finishing Techniques used to thicken/concentrate
Reduction
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Mother or “Leading” Sauces
Liquid & thickener:
1. Béchamel – milk & roux (clarified butter)
(basis of cheese sauce, nantua sauce)
2. Velouté- white stock & roux
(basis of allemande or mushroom sauce)
3. Espagnole (brown)- brown stock & roux
(basis of Demi-glace, bordelaise sauce)
4. Tomato – tomato
(basis of creole or spanish sauce)
5. Hollandaise – butter and egg yolk
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Compound Butter
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Compound Butters
• Made by incorporating various seasonings
into softened whole butter
• Ingredients can be combined in a blender,
food processor, or mixer
• Used as a sauce or for seasoning other
dishes – chef in video put on lamb chop
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Other Sauces and Contemporary
Sauces
• Pan gravy (a brown sauce w/ pan drippings)
• Coulis- purée of fruit or veg / serve hot or cold
chop, sauté, deglaze w/ wine or stock, puree, strain
raspberry sauce – example of uncooked coulis
• Salsa – mango is a popular with fish
• Vegetable juice sauces
• Broths
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458
Post-test
• What is mirepoix and why is it added to stock?
• Compare & contrast a stock and a broth.
• List 3 differences in the production of a white
stock and a brown stock.
• Name three of the classic “mother” or leading
sauces.
• Lowfat sauce made from vegetables or fruit is
called _________.
On Cooking, 3rd Edition
Sarah R. Labensky, and Alan M. Hause
©2003 Pearson Education, Inc.
Upper Saddle River, New Jersey 07458