Jewellery of Future

Future of Jewellery

Dr. Parag K. Vyas

Creation - Manifestation

• • • Making an article of jewellery is an

Act of Creation

Often, jewellery has

Several Successive Owners

, spread over Generations Therefore, it is a manifestation of

The Eternal Quest for Immortality

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Karmic Cycle

• • Metaphorically, From Gold, it comes, to Gold it goes. To be

Born Again

, into a

New Form

.

Jewellery has Life, upon

Completion of Cycle

components go

Back to Element

.

•

Sama-darsinah

, A Jeweller

Sees no Difference

between a Bangle, a Ring or a Necklace. Its all same, an

Expression

, a

Form

yet

Gold

.

Spirituality, Jewellery is a way of Dissolving self ‘

Ego

’ (Copper) into ‘

Higher Self

’ (Gold).

Saturday, 25 April 2020

Shrimadbhagwadgita

chapter 5: Verse 18 Design Inspirations 2015, Hyatt Regency, Mumbai 3

World View

Objective Reality

Model Dependent Realism • • • We Create Mental Models in order to

Interpret

&

Understand

everyday world.

There is no Picture or

Theory Independent

Concept of

Reality

.

It is pointless to ask if a Model is

Real

, only whether it

Agrees

with

Observation

.

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Jewellery Mandala

• • • Understanding Domain (Convergence & Divergence) Taxonomy Relationships Saturday, 25 April 2020 Design Inspirations 2015, Hyatt Regency, Mumbai 5

Polarized Convocation

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Value - Typify

Value Addition

Intrinsic Extrinsic Metal Gemstones Form Precious Base Precious Semi-Precious Form Factor Shape, Motifs Saturday, 25 April 2020 Design Inspirations 2015, Hyatt Regency, Mumbai 7

Taxonomy

Jewellery Metallic

(Gold, Silver, Platinum, Aluminium, Niobium)

Fine

(Studded or otherwise with semi precious)

Costume

(Base, Experimental, Plastic, Wood & a variety of other materials) Saturday, 25 April 2020 Design Inspirations 2015, Hyatt Regency, Mumbai 8

Parameters – Methodical Approach

Altering Parameters & Variables leads to nuances • • • Selectively in isolation or in combination.

Material & Process

– Manipulation

Taapan, Gharshan & Chhedan Taadan,

Form

- Composition, Variety, Shape & Size, Colour & Texture

Technology & Tools

- Coatings, Selective Metalizing, Anodizing, Tool Signature Saturday, 25 April 2020 Design Inspirations 2015, Hyatt Regency, Mumbai 9

New Materials/Tools/Technologies

• • • Metals • • • Niobium Aluminium Titanium Polymers/ Plastics • • • Neoprene Perspex Silicon Natural Material Alternatives • • Cellulosic- Cane, Bamboo, Cocobolo, Exotic Wood Shells- Coconut, Mother of Pearl • Form Giving Techniques • • • Six axis machining Metallizing Micro forms etc.

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Exemplar 1- Bamboo

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Exemplar 2- Bidri

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Exemplar 3- Filigree

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New Tools

• • • • Analysis Factor Analysis Multiple Regressions Biaxial/Tri-axial Matrices Corneal Reflex Trace Saturday, 25 April 2020 Design Inspirations 2015, Hyatt Regency, Mumbai 14

Trend Vectors 1

• Reduction - Material Value, Enhancement - Details Craftsmanship (Low intrinsic, High Extrinsic) Extrinsic Intrinsic Saturday, 25 April 2020 Design Inspirations 2015, Hyatt Regency, Mumbai 15

Trend Vectors 2

• Very High Value addition by Sensitivity, Form, Performance, Minimalism Saturday, 25 April 2020 Design Inspirations 2015, Hyatt Regency, Mumbai 16

Trend Vectors 3

• • • • New Materials, Combination Detailing, Finesse, Precision Roughness Parameters RMS & CLA Saturday, 25 April 2020 Design Inspirations 2015, Hyatt Regency, Mumbai 17

Hand Crafted – Batch Produced

Hand work as compared to machine All other relevant factors remaining same,

What would you take home? Treasure? like as Heirloom?

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Preferential Likeness

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References

• Adorno, T. W., " Aesthetic Theory" (6th edition). University of Minnesota press, USA, 2008 • • • • • Vyas, P., "Understanding Features of Form in Fine Jewellery, by Overt Eye Moment Studies-Catch People Watching Jewels" Design Thoughts, IDC, IIT Bombay, August, 2007.

Vyas, P. & Bapat, V.P., "Identification and Classification of Semantic Units Used in Formation of Patterns in Jewellery, A Methodical Approach" Design Thoughts, IDC, IIT Bombay, August, 2010.

Untracht, O., "Jewelry Concepts and Technology", Doubleday & Company, Inc., Garden City New York, 1985.

Hawking, S., “The Grand Design", Transworld Publishers, London, 2010.

Hawking, S., “A Briefer History of Time", Bantam Dell, New York, 2005.

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Thank you! for your Time & Patience!

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