Transcript 'North Sky' blueberry, photo by: David Hansen

Growing Berries in Minnesota
Created by: University of Minnesota Extension Master
Gardener-Anoka County
Eva Knudsen
The Six Most Important Things to
Remember
Proper Site Selection
 For the plant –
Full sun
Protection from wind
On a slope?
Good soil drainage
What was growing there before?
What is growing around area?

For you, the gardener –
Close to a water source
easy access
The Six Most Important Things to
Remember
Proper Site Preparation
 Do a soil test
 Obtain proper pH
 Add soil nutrients according
to test results
 Make sure area is weed free
 Plant certified disease-free
plants
The Six Most Important Things to
Remember
Proper Watering
 Avoid overhead
watering
 Put soaker hose in
place before planting
under mulch
The Six Most Important Things to Remember
Good Air Circulation
 Good air flow decreases the chance of diseases
and insects
 Proper pruning and thinning of plants increases
air flow
 Keeping areas weed free increase air flow
The Six Most Important Things to Remember
Good Sanitation
 Many diseases and insects
harbor in plant material
and debris
 Prune out diseased or
injured plants
 Remove over ripe fruit as
often and quickly as
possible
The Six Most Important Things to Remember
Mulch

Covers diseases that
can overwinter in the
soil or debris on the
ground

Holds soil moisture

Helps keep soil at a
constant
temperature
Why
Blueberries?
'North Sky' blueberry, photo by: David Hansen
Soil for Blueberries
 Soil pH is the most limiting factor
 Optimum pH is 4.0-5.0 (have a soil
test)
 Sandy-Sandy loam soils can be
modified by mixing 4-6 inches of acid
peat into the upper 6-8 inches of soil
 Elemental sulfur can be added to
acidify the soil but requires at least 1
yr. for the pH to adjust.
Planting a Blueberry Bush
 Planting too deep or not
deep enough may cause
root damage
 Set plants at the same
depth they were in the
container for the best
results.
 Mulch
Fertilization and Cultivation of
Blueberries
 Do not cultivate deeper than 2 inches
 Mulch 2-4 inches deep and 1-2 feet around
each bush
 For new plants; apply nitrogen as a
sidedressing when the second flush of
growth starts
 For older plants; apply nitrogen in the
spring
 Plants on very sandy soils benefit from a
split nitrogen application; half in the
spring and the other half at petal fall
 Do not fertilize after July
Pruning Blueberries
 Prune off flower buds and
weak, spindly growth on new
plants for the first 2 yrs after
planting
 Prune mature plants in late
winter (before buds swell)
cutting out diseased and dead
wood, branches 5 yrs. or older
each year
 Pruning cuts should be made at
ground level or to a low growing
lateral branch, allowing 1-3 new
braches to develop each year
Characteristics of Blueberry
Cultivars for Minnesota
Cultivar
Yield
potential
Hardiness
Berry size
Flavor
Firmness
Plant
size
Season
Chippewa
High
Excellent
Medlarge
Sweet
Good
4.5 x 4
Mid
Northblue
High
Excellent
Large
Tart
Fair
3x4
Mid
Polaris**
Med-High Very good Med
Sweet,
aromatic
Exc
4x4
Early
Northland
High
Very good Med
Mild
Good
4x4
Mid
St. Cloud**
Med High
Very good Med
Sweet
Good
5x4
Early
Northcountry
Med
Very good Small
Lowbush
- mild
Poor
2.5 x 4
Early
Northsky
Low
Very good Small
Lowbush
- sweet
Poor
2x3
Harvesting Blueberries
 Harvest season is 2-5 weeks
 The underside of the berry
will turn from pink to blue
when fully ripe
 Pick only fully ripe blue
berries
 Pick only when dry and
keep handling to a
minimum
 Cool berries promptly and
store at temps between 3240 degrees F.
Winter Protection
 Winter injury can occur at -25
degrees F. if the plant is not
protected
 Blueberries are susceptible to
sunscald injury in late winter
 If snow cover is less than 12
inches, other protection is
needed
Pest Management for Blueberries
 Blueberries can successfully be grown
without pesticides
 Good sanitation and air circulation thru
proper pruning is most important
 The most important thing to avoid pest
problems starts with proper site selection
and preparation
Strawberries
Strawberries Varieties
 Junebearing
strawberries produce
fruit from early June
through late July and are
generally overwintered
 Junebearing plants set
flower buds in the fall of
the year prior to fruiting
when the day is relatively
short, about 12 hours
Strawberries Varieties
 Everbearing strawberries
produce two to three harvests of
fruit intermittently during the
spring, summer and fall and do
not send out many runners.
 Day Neutral strawberries
produce fruit throughout the
growing season. These
strawberries also produce few
runners.
Planting Strawberries
 A well-drained loam or sandy
loam soil is best to maintain
plant vigor and reduce disease
problems.
 Strawberries require full
sunlight
 Strawberries prefer slightly
acidic soil with pH 5.3-6.5
Growing Junebearing Strawberries
 The main planting system used for Junebearing
cultivars is the matted row
 Set the plants 1½ to 2½ feet apart in rows spaced 3
to 4 feet apart
 Let the runners develop until the row is 1 to 1½ feet
wide. This system allows for easier weed control,
easier harvest, less fruit rot, and fewer foliage
diseases than other systems.
Growing Day-Neutral Strawberries
 Plant day-neutral cultivars in the same way, or on a
6-to 8-inch raised bed. The raised bed provides
higher spring soil temperatures and better
drainage, allowing faster establishment and earlier
cropping.
Photo credit:
Dave Hansen
Fertilizing Strawberries
 Before planting have a soil test done
 Fertilize early each spring before the plants produce
flowers.
 For June-bearing types, you may choose to spread
another fertilizer application after they have finished
producing fruit for the season. (During restoration is
the best)
 DO NOT fertilize the plants during flowering or fruit
production as your berries will be softer, of poorer
quality, and will not keep well.
Renovating June-Bearing Strawberries
 After harvest is completed mow off the
foliage using a standard lawnmower,
taking care not to damage the crowns
of the plants
 After 1-2 weeks, rototill or hoe the rows
so they are only half their original
width
 Thru renovating, June-bearing
strawberries should be completely
replaced every 3-5 years for maximum
productivity.
Everbearing Strawberries
 Runners are normally
removed as they appear,
especially if the "hill" system is
used.
 For maximum productivity,
replace the planting every
three years.
 Day-neutral strawberries
should also be replaced every 3
years.
Strawberries: Covered and Uncovered
 Winter mulch protects strawberry buds from freezing and
should be left on as late as possible in spring to keep plants
from coming out of dormancy and growing too early,
 One sign that the cover should be removed immediately is if
the strawberry leaves begin to turn yellow. Even then you
can leave a light mulch on the plants if that yellowing occurs
quite early in the season. This provides some protection
from cold temperatures.
 When you remove straw mulch, keep it between the rows of
plants. That way it will be relatively easy to cover them again
if another hard frost is predicted.
STRAWBERRY GRAY MOLD
,
Occurs frequently
Photo by Plant Disease Clinic
STRAWBERRY
LEAF SPOT / SCORCH
.
Photo by Chad Behrendt
Most Common Insect Pests of
Strawberries
Tarnished Plant Bugs
Picnic Beetles
Slugs
Strawberry Root
Weevil
Tarnished Plant Bug Damage
Raspberries
Raspberries
 The main types which can be grown in the home
garden are red, yellow, black, and purple.
 Raspberries can be grown successfully in most areas of
Minnesota.
 Raspberries have perennial roots and crowns but canes
live for only two summers.
 Most raspberries are summer-bearing varieties. During
the first year, the new canes grow vegetatively. The
canes overwinter and during the second growing
season the second year canes produces fruit and then
die.
Where Should You Plant Raspberries
 Grow raspberries in an area
that has good air circulation,
water drainage and full
sunlight.
 Protect plants from windy
sites as wind can induce
excessive drying and cane
injury.
 Any well-drained soil is
satisfactory for growing
raspberries. Additional water
will be needed on a sandy
soil.
Training Raspberries
 All raspberries benefit
from some type of support
system
 The simplest trellis system
uses single or double
wires or twine. Place posts
about every 10 to 12 feet.
Place the canes between
the wires and tie them
loosely to the wire. The
wires can be tied every 2
feet to prevent spreading.
Pruning Summer-bearing Red and Yellow
Raspberries

Cut and dispose of all canes
immediately after they bear fruit.
(during dry weather)

At this time you should thin out
new shoots so only three or four of
the sturdiest canes remain per
foot of row.

In the spring the fruiting canes
should be cut back slightly. Never
cut back more than one-fourth
(25%) the total height of the cane.
Pruning Fall-bearing Raspberries
 For a fall crop, cut all canes off at the base before
growth begins in spring.
 Fall-bearing raspberries (also called Ever-bearing)
are able to initiate flowers during the first year.
During the second year, they can produce a
summer crop on the same canes
 For a fall and summer crop, thin the canes as
described for summer-bearing raspberries. The
canes that produced the fall crop should not be
removed as they will produce fruit the following
summer. Prune them back in spring to the last
visible node that had fruit.
Pruning Black and Purple Raspberries
 Black and most purple raspberries produce new canes only
from the buds at the base of the year old canes. These clumps
or "hills" remain in the original planting location.
 When new canes are between 24 to 30 inches in height, pinch
out the tip of each shoot to induce branching
 After harvest, cut down all canes that bore fruit to ground
level
 Before growth begins the following spring, cut back all side
branches to 12 - 18 inches. Select 4 to 5 canes per hill and
prune out the rest. Tie these canes to the support system.
Blackberries in Minnesota?
 Black raspberries are hard to fruit reliably year
after year in zone 4.
 The UofM is working in cooperation with the large
blackberry breeding program at the University of
Arkansas. U of A has developed a first year canefruiting blackberry, which means it fruits on the
first year growth.
 They anticipate at least 5 years of field trials until
they're confident in their results and certain the
crowns won't die out.
Stop the Spread of Raspberry Diseases
 Cultural practices can limit
the spread of diseases
 Destroy wild or abandoned
brambles near the garden
 After harvest, remove and
destroy canes that have
fruited, are diseased, or are
weak
 Improve air circulation by
proper thinning and pruning
and by controlling weeds
Viruses on Raspberry
 Raspberries are
susceptible to a number
of viruses but are hard to
diagnose and can be
easily confused with
herbicide damage
 Consult an expert if you
think your plants are
infected
Photo: F. D. McElroy
Gooseberries
•Elderberries
'Redlake' currant
Photo credit: Dave Hansen
METHODS OF
PREPARATION
Jams and Jellies
 Jams and jellies have a very high sugar
content.
 The sugar binds with the liquid present
making it difficult for microorganisms to
grow.
 To prevent surface contamination after the
product is made and thus possible yeast or
mold growth, jams and jellies are either
canned, frozen or refrigerated.
Canning Jams, Marmalades and Preserves
Without Added Pectin
 Jams, conserves, and marmalades;
made without added pectin require
longer cooking and have a slightly
different flavor from those with
added pectin. They also yield a less
finished product.
 The product is done when the
temperature reaches 220° - 222° F.
Canning Jams, Marmalades and Preserves
With Added Pectin
 Be sure to carefully follow the directions accompanying
the pectin product. The order of combining ingredients
depends on the type of pectin used.
 Successful preparation of pectin-added jams,
marmalades, and conserves depends on accurate timing.
Begin counting time when the mixture reaches a full
rolling boil-one that cannot be stirred down.
 There is a third method for preparing jams; it does not
require cooking the fruit-this product must be stored in
the refrigerator or freezer.
 Note. Jelly jars with
paraffin are no longer
recommended. An
incomplete seal with
paraffin and the absence
of a heat treatment may
result in mold growth and
toxin production in the
jelly. Persons continuing
to use the paraffin, and
no water bath method,
should be aware of the
potential health risk.
 A research study conducted at the University of
Minnesota demonstrated that heat processing jelly for
5 to 15 minutes had no harmful effect on the products.
Those tested included ones made with liquid and
powdered pectin, as well as traditional no-pectinadded ones. In addition, the heat processing gives a
better seal, and destroys mold that may be present on
the top surface of the product.
Sugar
 Sugar helps in gel formation,
contributes flavor to the jelly, and at the
concentration of 55 percent by weight,
serves as a preservative.
 Corn syrup or honey can replace part of
the sugar in jelly recipes. If too much
honey or corn syrup is substituted, the
flavor of the fruit may be lost or
lessened.
 Aspartame (Equal/NutraSweet*)
cannot be substituted for sugar in
recipes that require heating
Freezing Fruit
 Freezing, when properly done, is the method of food
preservation which may potentially preserve the
greatest quantity of nutrients
 Fruits—Most frozen fruits maintain high quality for 8
to 12 months. Unsweetened fruits lose quality faster
than those packed in sugar or sugar syrups.
Drying or Dehydrating Fruit
 Drying removes most of the moisture from foods.
 Microorganisms cannot grow and enzyme action is
slowed down.
 Dried foods should be stored in airtight containers
to prevent moisture from rehydrating the products
and allowing microbial growth.
Questions?