Evaluation of Sourcing Strategies for Apparel Russell E

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Transcript Evaluation of Sourcing Strategies for Apparel Russell E

Analyzing Sourcing and Manufacturing Strategies for Better Financial Performance

Jim Lovejoy Textile/Clothing Technology Corp.

Research Agenda

 Compare Sourcing Strategies  Evaluate impact of Manufacturing Lead-time  Investigate the Impact of Forecast Error  Investigate the Impact of Collaboration  Identify top ten financial levers (other than price)

Retail Performance Measures

 In stock  Inventory turns  Gross Margin

Retail Performance Measures

 In stock  In stock %, service level, lost sales  Inventory  inventory turns, who owns inventory?  Gross margin  Gross Margin $, Gross Margin %, Adjusted Gross Margin, Gross Margin Return on Investment (GMROI)

Key Retail Planning Strategies

 Plan assortment strategy  Plan merchandise pricing strategy  Plan delivery strategy  Evaluate vendor offerings

Manufacturer Performance Measures  Service  % shipped on time, % perfect orders  % back orders, % back orders filled  Inventory  Turns  Units ordered, produced, shipped, residual  Financial  Cost, revenue, gross margin, GMROI

Strategies Evaluated

 Traditional Build to Plan  Vendor Managed Inventory (VMI)  Quick Response (QR)  Newsboy  Model Stock  Target Weeks Supply

Traditional Build to Plan

 Program Received in Advance of Season  Mix and Volume of Garments Based upon Buyer’s Plan  No reordering, no re-estimation of demand

Vendor Managed Inventory

 Vendor Produces Buyer’s Plan  40-50% of Program Shipped in Advance of Season  Retailer Makes Weekly POS-Based Reorders  Vendor Ships as Stock Allows  Can accommodate some increase in volume

Quick Response

 Similar to VMI  Stronger Partnership  Agile Manufacturing at Vendor  Re-estimate Demand by SKU Periodically  Shipments Match Demand Driven Reorders  Adjusts for error in previous forecast

Newsboy

 Similar to Quick Response  Reorder quantity based on target service level considering time until next reorder delivered or end of season

Model Stock  No demand re-estimation  Replenish to model stock quantities in buyers plan  Equivalent to ordering to maintain a presentation stock

Target Weeks Supply  Re-estimate demand periodically based on POS  Order enough to satisfy demand for a fixed number of weeks after order is received

Forecast Error

 Volume Error - Difference between Total Demand and Forecast for the entire line  Mix Error - Difference in the Fraction of Demand for each SKU

“1% improvement in forecast accuracy can equal a 2% inventory savings” Ernst & Young

Forecast vs. Actual Demand SKU Mix Error

Size S M L XL Total Forecast Demand 10% 25% 35% Actual Demand 10% 35% 30% Absolute Difference 0% 10% 5% 30% 25% 5% 100% 100% 20% Example of a “20%” Size Error

8.0% % of Total Sales

Seasonality Curves

% of Total Sales 8.0 % 6.0% 6.0 % 4.0% 4.0 % 2.0% 2.0 % 0.0% 1 3 5 7 9 11 Period 13 15 17 19 0.0 % 1 3 5 7 9 11 period 13 15 17 19 8.0% 8.0% 6.0% 6.0% 4.0% 4.0% 2.0% 2.0% 0.0% 1 3 5 7 0.0% 1 3 5 7 9 11 Period 13 15 17 19 9 11 Period 13 15 17 19

Importance of Speed & Flexibility

 Cannot predict future  Forecasting is based on history  POS data is not 100% accurate  Consumer is fickle  Buyers have performance measures  Offshore sources are cheaper

Simulation Analysis

 INPUTS  Buyer’s Plan  Selling Price  Cost  Replenishment Strategy  Consumer Demand and Behavior  OUTPUTS  Sales  Lost Sales  Markdown Loss  Gross Margin  Service Level  Inventory Turns  GMROI

Example Scenario

Children’s Twill Coverall Retail Price $30.00

Avg. Selling Price* $25.50

VMI/QR Cost $14.50

Traditional Cost $10.50

24 SKUs: 2 Styles 3 Colors 4 Sizes *Before End Of Season Markdown

Performance Comparison for a 16 Week Season

Trad 100% Inventory Turns 1.8

GMROI 1.8

% Markdowns 27% % Lost Sales 23% VMI QR 4.7

5.7

2.6

3.7

18% 11% 24% 7%

Performance Comparison for a 16 Week Season (cont.) Service Level Sales $ Gross Margin $ Traditional 71% VMI QR 70% 91% $75,273 $74,635 $90,070 $38,749 $27,356 $35,941

Service Level %

Overall Service Level for Different Season Lengths

100 95 90 85 80 75 70 65 8 10 12 14

Traditional

16 QR 18 20

Season Length

Gross Margin for QR Perfect Volume Forecast

50000

GM$

40000 30000

QR Traditional

$13.65

20000 10.5

11 11.5

12 12.5

13 13.5

14

Wholesale Price

14.5

15 15.5

16

Gross Margin for QR Forecast 25% Low

GM$

50000 40000 30000

QR Traditional

$14.20

20000 10.5

11 11.5

12 12.5

13 13.5

14 14.5

Wholesale Cost $

15 15.5

16

Gross Margin for QR Forecast 25% High

50000

QR

40000 $16.00

30000

Traditional

20000 10.5

11 11.5

12 12.5

13 13.5

14 14.5

15 15.5

16

Are we using a complete scorecard in our sourcing decisions?

Onshore/Offshore Example

T shirt sold at mass merchant: Retail Price Honduras 807 Cost QR (USA) Cost 35 SKUs: $ 3.00

$ .96

$ 1.50

1 Style, 7 Colors, 5 Sizes Plan 8000 dozen, 20 week season one 25% markdown in week 18

Compare QR vs 807 Sourcing for Seasonal Garment

Quick Response

Initial Stocking 40%

POS weekly order

3 week turnaround

12 reorders, start wk 2

Shipments 2% short

Wholesale price $1.50

Honduras 807

Initial Stocking 100%

No reorders

Transp cost $5000./cont.

Duty = 18% of VA + Assist

Wholesale price $ .96

Compare QR vs 807 Sourcing for Seasonal Garment (20 weeks)

Quick Response

Results

Gross Margin 47%

GM $ 146,891.

Honduras 807

Results

Gross Margin 63%

GM $ 155,265.

Compare QR vs 807 Sourcing for Seasonal Garment (20 weeks)

Quick Response

Results

Gross Margin 47%

GM $ 146,891.

Inventory Turns 4.48

Service Level 97%

Sales $311,503.

Lost Sales 2%

GMROI 4.0

Honduras 807

Results

Gross Margin 63%

GM $ 155,265.

Inventory Turns 1.96

Service Level 68%

Sales $247,425.

Lost Sales 29%

GMROI 3.3

Compare QR vs QR/807 Blend Sourcing for Seasonal Garment (20 weeks)

Quick Response

Results

Gross Margin 47%

GM $ 146,891.

Inventory Turns 4.48

Service Level 97%

Sales $311,503.

Lost Sales 2%

GMROI 4.0

QR/ 807 Blended

Results

Gross Margin 55%

GM $ 171,629.

Inventory Turns 3.72

Service Level 97%

Sales $313,922.

Lost Sales 2%

GMROI 4.49

QR vs. 807 Conclusions

807 Sourcing produces more GM$, GM%

Quick Response does better than Honduras 807 Sourcing in several commonly accepted measures.

Quick Response dominates in terms of:

Service Level, Inventory Turns, Lost Sales

A blend of QR/807 sourcing performs well in all categories and has the best GM$ and GMROI

Value of Collaboration Case Study  What is the value of reducing the lead times for raw materials and manufacturing process time in a textile supply chain?

Collaborative Supply Chain Results   Best Lead Time  Fabric 2 weeks + 1  Apparel 1 week + 1  Min Order  Fabric 1,000/500  Apparel 1/1 Typical Lead Time  Fabric 6 weeks + 1  Apparel 2 weeks + 1  Min Order  Fabric 10,000/5,000  Apparel 960/12

Collaborative Supply Chain Results

Collaborative Supply Chain Results

Manufacturer’s Collaborative Results Best Case vs. Typical  Total Revenue  Gross Margin +20% +66%  Inventory Turns(raw material) 7 vs. 4.8

 Ship on Time 93% vs. 63%

Research Results - General  Replenishment increases Gross Margin $  Speed of replenishment & flexibility increases GM$  Assortment diversity decreases Gross Margin $  Price sensitivity vs. markdown strategy  Not getting revenue return from markdowns  Better strategy to collaborate and replenish

Top Ten Levers for Financial Performance (other than price) 1. Replenishment strategy 2. Service level 3. Assortment strategy 4. Forecasting 5. Make to order/make to stock 6. Lead time 7. Initial inventory 8. Minimum order quantities 9. Collaboration 10. Supply chain inventory placement

References          King, Nuttle, Hunter, 1991, A Stochastic Model of the Apparel-retailing Process for Seasonal Apparel, Textile Institute Whalen, Gilreath, Reeve, 1995, Time is Money, Bobbin March 1995 Hunter, King, 1997, Retail Performance Measures and the Sourcing Decision, National Textile Center Pinnow, King, 1997, Break Even Costs for Traditional versus Quick Response Apparel Suppliers, North Carolina State University IE Technical Report #97-4 King, Hunter, 1997, Quick Response Beats Importing in Retail Sourcing Analysis, Bobbin March 1997 Koloszyc, 1998, Apparel Retailers Use Simulator to Improve Sourcing Decisions, Stores August 1998 Kunz, 1998, Merchandising Theory Principles and Practice, Fairchild Books Maddalena, King, 1998, Replenishment Rules, Bobbin May 1998 Moon, Gokce, Maddalena, King, 1998, Proplenishment Makes a Payoff, Bobbin May 1999

Thank you!

Questions?

 Jim Lovejoy [TC] 2 919-380-2184  Russ King, NC State University 919-515-5186