Transcript The “Typical” Rhode Island Growing Season

Northern RI Conservation District
Red Planet
Vegetables
Growing Season: The part of the year where temperature and
rainfall allow plants to grow. For the purposes of this workshop,
growing season refers to frost-free days.
Hardiness Zone: Geographically defined area where certain
plants are capable of growing
Climate: The weather conditions of a certain area over a long
period
Microclimate: The climate within a small, specific space as
contrasted with the climate of the surrounding area (i.e.. the
area in close proximity around a plant or row of plants).
Days to Maturity: The number of days between planting a
seed and the harvest of that crop.
•May 8th- October 3rd
•Plant Hardiness Zone 6
•147 frost-free days in
2011
•120 days with a
minimum temperature
of 32 degrees and below
(on average)
•Grow summer crops that
can be harvested through
the late fall
•Grow hardy crops that can
be harvested all winter in
altered microclimates
•Plant crops later that will
be ready to harvest in the
spring
It’s all about PLANNING, CREATING
MICROCLIMATES, CHOOSING THE RIGHT
PLANTS
•What do you want to get out of
your garden?
•Do you want to keep it going
through the fall and save what’s
already growing?
•Do you want to harvest all
winter?
•Where will the garden be
located?
•What crops do you want to plant?
•Do you need to create a protected
microclimate?
•Make a map!
•Soil quality
•Well-drained soils
•Avoid areas of excessive
runoff
•South-facing areas to
maximize sunlight
•North-South or East-West?
•Location that won’t be
shaded when the sun is lower
in the sky in winter
•Wind protection
•Access
•Frost Pockets?
•Protected microclimate?
•REALLY cold
•REALLY windy
•Can be extreme- stay
warm
•It’s Rough out there!!!
To extend your summer garden well into the fall,
plant later in the season
•Plant early-maturing plants (30 days to maturity) in mid-
September
Chives
Bunching Onions
Radishes
Early Carrots
Asian Greens
Cilantro
Pea Greens
Broccoli Raab
Leaf Lettuces
Mustard
Spinach
*Great time to plant Lawn
Seed!
•Plant mid-season maturing plants (60 days to maturity)
in mid- August
Early Carrot
Leeks
Turnip
Kohl Rabi
Early Cabbage
Winter
Cauliflower
Collard Greens
Perennial Flowers Broccoli
Perennial Herbs Mustard Greens
Swiss Chard
Arugula!
•Plant late-season maturing plants (90 days to maturity)
in mid- July
Beets
Carrots
Parsnip
Globe Onions
Brussels Sprouts
Cabbages
Cauliflower
Fava Beans
*Give yourself 5-10 extra days to maturity when planting later in the season
Select plants that are winter hardy and thrive in the cold
and adjusted microclimates for your winter garden:
Salad Greens
Spinach
Carrots
Leeks
Turnip
Parsnip
Kale
Brussels Sprouts
Broccoli
Collard Greens
Swiss Chard
Lettuce
Mustard Greens
* Days to maturity is greatly increased due to winter
climates, even in protected microclimates
When directly seeded in fall, these plants can over-winter
outside. If they germinate and grow quickly, they may be
killed by the cold.
Plan when you want to harvest the crops that you want to
grow and plant accordingly
Succession Plantings
Plan your season now using readily available tools on the internet
Planting Date Calculator
Harvesting Date Calculator
Succession Planting
(see NRICD.org for links)
Keep records!
Save seed packets with notes!
Learn from trial and error!
Every year is different!
Don’t get discouraged!
A microclimate is small, but distinctly different climate
within the greater area that surrounds it
Not just increasing the temperature!
•Using south-facing slopes
•Protection from the wind using
hedgerows and shrubs & snow fence
•Planting in raised beds
•Using mulch to protect roots and shoots
•Planting along stone walls to trap ambient
heat
•Using other methods to increase plant
temperature, increase sun exposure, protect
from wind, and maintain moisture
•Mulching using leaves or wood chips to protect plants
•Using raised beds to increase soil temperature
•Amending the soil with compost: thermal decay of highly
organic soil
•Use hay to cover leeks and carrots
•Using Row covers for added protection from the elements
•Also protect crops from insects and other pests
•Use spun-bonded, lightweight fabrics for best results
•Grow at summer
speed through
November, then
plants semihibernate
•Equivalent of
moving plants 1 ½
USDA zones south
•Must ventilate
when inner
temperature is
around 70 degrees,
or after March 1st.
Make with recycled materials that
you already have, such as old
windows, plastic sheets and wood!
•Generally under 6 feet tall
•Can use plastic or metal to make hoops
•Cover with spun-bound fabric or UV resistant plastic dependant on
need
•Fully secure in areas with lots of snow using sandbags and tie-downs
•Mainly unheated, non-mechanically ventilated, generally
greater than 6 feet tall
•Sold as kits, plant directly in the ground
•Unheated, 6-7 degrees warmer than outside
•Funding may be available for extending your growing season
using High Tunnels through NRCS
•Permanent
structures
•Usually heated
•Many times has a
concrete floor
•Maintain summer
growing conditions
year-round
•Expensive to
maintain!
•Use any combination of row covers, low tunnels and high
tunnels.
•Can be equivalent of moving plants 3 USDA zones warmer
•Soil health and fertility
•Don’t Guess! Soil Test!
•Availability of water
•Availability of electricity
•Availability of materials
•Ventilation
•Enough light
•Budget
•Time
•For more information, please refer to
the Northern RI Conservation District
website at:
www.NRICD.org
You will find a list of reference materials
including:
Books
Links to Websites
This PowerPoint
For More Information:
Kate Sayles, Northern RI Conservation District
(401) 934-0840
[email protected]
Justin Tuthill, USDA-NRCS
(401)822-8839
[email protected]
Matt Tracy, Red Planet Vegetables
[email protected]