Transcript Crocking - Perspiraion

Colourfastness Testing
Colourfastness to rubbing /
crocking
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Colorfastness to Crocking
 Crocking - A transfer of colorant from the
surface of a colored yarn or fabric to
another surface or to an adjacent area of
the same fabric principally by rubbing.
 Although a physical process, the primary
evaluation is for appearance (color)
 Wet and dry evaluation typically
performed
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Crocking Instruments
 Applicable to many textile materials
including dye and printed fabrics,
carpeting, and automotive interior
materials
 Manual (for shorter tests) and automatic
models available
 Linear and rotating motion models
 Can be adapted to provide simple
abrasion tests for other materials
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Crocking : Standard Test Methods
AATCC Test Method 8 - Basic Crockmeter
Method
AATCC Test Method 116 - Rotary Vertical
AATCC Test Method 165 - Carpets
ISO 105-D02 - Organic Solvents
ISO 105-X12 - Colorfastness to rubbing
SAE J861 - Organic trim materials
ASTM D5053 - Leather
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Colorfastness to Crocking
Verification checks using the Crockmeter Calibration Cloth are
extremely important to avoid incorrect results.
Potential problems include:
 Crocking finger may need resurfacing
 Loose clips
 Incorrect mounting
 Loops to wire clips positioned downward
 Metal base warped
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AATCC Test Method 8 (Basic)
 Recommended specimen size 5cm by
13cm
 Wet and dry tests are specified
 Mount white test cloth with the weave
parallel to the direction of rubbing
 Run test for 10 complete turns
 Evaluate the white test cloth using the
Gray Scale for staining
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AATCC Test Method 8 (Basic)
 For the wet test:
 Establish technique for preparing wet
crock cloth squares by weighing a
conditioned square, then thoroughly
wet out a white testing square in
distilled water
 The wet pick-up should be 65 ± 5%
 Use of a hand wringer is
recommended
 White cloth dried and conditioned
prior to evaluation
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AATCC Test Method 116
(Rotary Vertical Method)
 Method is especially useful for prints
where the singling out of areas smaller
than possible to test with Method 8 is
required
 Wet and dry tests specified
 20 complete turns specified
 Evaluation performed with the Gray Scale
for staining
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AATCC Test Method 165 (Carpets)
 Testing before/after treatments such as
shampooing, steam or hot water
extraction, or antistatic/antisoil
application has been found useful
 Wet and Dry testing specified
 Ten complete turns (one per second)
specified
 Evaluate with Gray Scale for Staining
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ISO /DIS105-X12 - 1999
Colour fastness to rubbing
 Method suitable for all kinds of textiles
 Two alternative sizes of rubbing fingers specified
 Cylinder of a 16 mm diameter finger exerting a
download force of 9 N
 Finger with a rectangular rubbing surface of 19
mm x 25,4 mm (crock block) exerting a
download force of 9 N for pile fabrics including
textile floor coverings
 Suitable apparaturs referring to AATCC TM 8
 Wet and Dry Test specified
 Specimen size at least 50 mm x 140 mm
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Crockmeter - CM1
 Manual unit
recommended for
shorter tests
 Has cycle counter
 Comes standard
with 16mm finger
and 9 N arm
•
 For wet and dry
tests
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Cloth, abrasive paper,
and spring clip supplied
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CM5 Crockmeter
 Automatic unit
recommended for
long/frequent tests
 Electrically powered
 Count-up timer with
automatic shut down
•
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Accessories available
CM6 Crockmeter
 Manual unit
 Reciprocating rotary motion to meet AATCC Test
Method 116
 Can be used for wet and dry testing
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Colourfastness Testing
Colourfastness to aqueous agencies:
-
Water,Sea Water, Chlorinated Water
- Perspiration
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Colorfastness to Aqueous Agencies
ISO Standards
 ISO 105 E01: Colorfastness to water
 ISO 105 E02: Colorfastness to sea water
 ISO 105 E04: Colorfastness to perspiration
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Colourfastness to Water to ISO 105-E01
 Definition
 Resistance of the colour to immersion in water
 Procedure
 A with “grade 3“ water wetted specimen between two
adjacent fabrics and placed between two plates is
submitted to a pressure of 12,5 kPa for 4 hours at
37 + 2 °C
 Asessment
 Change in Colour of the specimen and staining of the
adjacend fabrics with the Grey Scales
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Colourfastness to Sea Water to
ISO 105-E02
 Definition
 Resistance of the colour to immersion in sea water
 Procedure
 A with sodium chloride solution (30 g/l) wetted specimen
between two adjacent fabrics and placed between two
plates is submitted to a pressure of 12,5 kPa for 4 hours
at 37 + 2 °C
 Assessment
 Change in Colour of the specimen and staining of the
adjacend fabrics with the Grey Scales
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Colourfastness to Perspiration to
ISO 105-E04
 Definition
 Resistance of the colour to the action of human
perspiration
 Procedure
 A with acid or alkaline histidine solutions wetted
specimen between two adjacent fabrics and placed
between two plates is submitted to a pressure of 12,5
kPa for 4 hours at 37 + 2 °C
 Assessment
 Change in Colour of the specimen and staining of the
adjacend fabrics with the Grey Scales
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Colorfastness to Perspiration to
AATCC
 Specimens of colored textiles are wet out
in simulated perspiration solution,
subjected to a fixed mechanical pressure
and allowed to dry slowly at a slightly
elevated temperature.
 AATCC Test Method 15 -- Perspiration
 AATCC Test Method 107 -- Water
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Colorfastness to Perspiration
 Applicable to dyed, printed or otherwise
colored textile fibers, yarns and fabrics
 Also applicable to dyestuffs
 Acid and alkaline test eliminated after
studies done in 1974
 Some international and special enduse still require alkaline test
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Colorfastness to Perspiration
 Acid Solution (One liter)
 10g sodium chloride
 1g lactic acid, USP 85%
 1g disodium hydrogen phosphate anhydrous
(Na2HPO4)
 0.25g histidine monohydrochloride
 pH of solution should be 4.3 ± 0.2
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Colorfastness to Perspiration
 Test specimens placed between plates of
the unit with an 8 lb. (3.628kg) weight on
top
 Total weight under the pressure plate is
10 lbs. (4.54kg)
 Evaluate for color change using Gray
Scale
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AATCC Perspiration Tester
(shown with Gray Scale)
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Colourfastness to chlorinated water to
ISO 105-E03
 Definition
 Resistance of the colour to the action of chlorine solutions
as used in swimming bath water
 Procedure
 A specimen is tested in a separate container of 550 + 50 ml
volume filled with sodium hypcochorite solution ( 20, 50 or
100 ml active chlorine) rotating in a mechanical device
during one hour at 27 + 2 °C
 Instrument
 The specified mechanical water bath corresponds to
devices as used for wash fastness tests
 Assessment
 Change in colour of the specimen with the Grey Scale
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ATLAS Testing Devices
Linitest +
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Launder-Ometer
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Colourfastness Testing
Contact Heat
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ISO Standards
 ISO 105 P01 Colour fastness to dry heat
 3 Temperature ranges depending on
requirements and the stability of the fibres
 ISO 105 X11 Colour fastness to hot
pressing
 Dry , damp and wet pressing
at 3 temperatures described
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ISO 105 P01
 Specimen size: 10 cm x 4 cm
 Temperatures: 150 , 180 , 210 °C + 2 °C
 Testing time: 30 seconds
 Presuure specified. 4 + 1 kPa
 Evaluate specimens for Coulor Change
and Staining
 Grey Scale for Assesssing Change in Colour
 Grey Scale for assessing Staining
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ISO 105 X11
 Dry Pressing – a dry specimen is pressed with a
heating device at a specified temperature and time
 Damp pressing – a dry specimen is covered with a
wet cotton adjacent fabric and pressed with a
heating device at a specified temperature and time
 Wet pressing – the upper surface of a wet
specimen is covered with a wet cotton adjacent
fabric and pressed with a heating device at a
specified temperature and time
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ISO 105 X11
 Specimen size: 10 cm x 4 cm
 Temperatures: 110 – 150 – 200 °C + 2°C
 Testing time: 30 seconds
 Heating device as described in ISO 105 P01,
however, heat should be transferred to the
specimen on the upper side only
 A suitable insulating material is used to to
minimize heat transfer to or from the bottom plate
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FIXOTEST
 Standard Instrument for
ISO Test Methods
 Compact unit with three
independent test stations
 Pairs of heating plates
independently controllable
up to 230 °C
 Lower Plates can be
switched off to allow heat
transfer only from the top
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AATCC Test Methods
 AATCC Test Method 117 -- (Dry heat)
 Various temperature ranges depending on
requirements and the stability of the fibers
 AATCC Test Method 133 -- (Hot pressing)
 Dry, damp, and wet pressing methods described
depending on the end use of the textile
 Various temperature levels used depending on class
of textile tested
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AATCC Test Method 117
 Specimen size not specified
 Testing time is 30 seconds
 Pressure specified is 40 ± 10 g/cm2
 Evaluate specimens for color change
using:
 Gray Scale for Color Change (Dyed fabrics)
 Gray Scale for Staining (Undyed fabrics)
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AATCC Test Method 133
 Dry Pressing -- Dry specimen pressed
with heating device
 Damp Pressing -- Dry specimen covered
with wet, undyed cotton cloth, then
pressed with heating device
 Wet Pressing -- Wet specimen covered
with wet, undyed cotton cloth, then
pressed with heating device
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AATCC Test Method 133
 Specimen size of 12cm by 4cm is
recommended
 Yarn or thread, knitted to a fabric of
above dimensions, is acceptable
 Dry, damp, and wet pressing all require 15
seconds of testing
 Evaluate using Gray Scale for Color
Change
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AATCC Test Method 133
 Temperatures specified:
 110 ± 2C
 150 ± 2C
 200 ± 2C
 Table I of this test method identifies safe
ironing temperatures for most fabrics
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Scorch Tester
 Used for both Test
Methods 117 and 133
 Upper plate hinged for
sample removal
 Adjustable pressure
 Thermostatic control
 Pyrometer temperature
indicator
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Scorch Tester
 Scorch Tester used
for:
 Colorfastness to Dry
Heat
 Colorfastness to
Pressing
 Tensile Loss from
Chlorination
Retention
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Tensile Loss Due to Chlorine Retention
 AATCC Test Method 92
(Single sample method)
 AATCC Test Method 114
(Multiple sample method)
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