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Муниципальное общеобразовательное учереждение “Гимназия №5” г.Дзержинский Московской области The project “Great couturiers” Luba Solopova 8 Grade student High Comprehensive school №5 Adviser: English teacher L.I.Bzhania 2009-2010 History of fashion is as old as suit history. Since the moment a person opened the value of clothes as protection frames from adverse influences of the nature, it remains a little period until it started to reflect on his aesthetic and stimulating function. The clothes were the object he could express the art of outlook. Since the most ancient times the person aspired to cover the naked body that was possible to explain chastity and sense of shame. However, such interpretation is represented too narrow and limited. The clothes were not only a cover, but also a symbol. Even the amulet was in due time “clothes” as it was the bridge between a naked, vulnerable human body and the world around. Vivid examples of symbolical value of certain forms of clothes represent rigid rules of medieval estates of the Spanish monks. The rule of stylization of appearance of the person though in an other form, reached us from former times are found out up to the present. The French revolution cut not only heads of aristocrats, but also wigs in literally and figuratively. From now on absence of a wig was obligatory in the society. The clothes speak much, they expose undercover thoughts. The clothes show the most individual creation of human culture, and at the same time near fashion which as the shade follows clothes, strides a powerful instinct of imitation. Imitation simultaneously is the necessary precondition of a fashion, its contradiction. The person imitates the world around, fоllows fashion, but, at the same time, with the help of this fashion, it aspires to differ from people surrounding him. Internal qualities, temperament and character are underlined by external means, on thus naturally enough and imitation. In many countries today, people wear modern fashions most of the time. They sometimes wear their traditional clothing on special days such as holidays. If you look at fashion magazines, you see many tall, slim models. These models show that height and weight are an important part of fashion. As long as people have the desire to be beautiful, there will be fashion. There will always be people who follow the latest styles because they want to look their best and be more attractive. These people think that their appearance is very important. They will spend a lot of their time and money trying to look like the ideal man or woman. Today I’ll tell you about great couturiers that change fashion of all the world. But what is fashion? Fashion is the area of activity that involves styles of clothing and appearance. And what is a couturier? A couturier is a person who designs, makes, and sells expensive, fashionable clothes for women. Today I’ll tell you about ten couturiers: • • • • • • • • • • Chanel Armani D&G Prada Gucci Versachi Dior Yves Saint Laurent Valentin Udashkin Vyacheslav Zaytsev Great couturiers 30%-France 20%-Russia 50%-Italy Russia: Valentin Udashkin, Vyacheslav Zaytsev Italy: Armani, D&G, Prada, Gucci, Versachi France: Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel Coco Chanel (19 August of 1883 — 10 January 1971). The real name is Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel. She brought little black dresses and a narrow jackets to fashion. Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel (19 August 1883 – 10 January 1971) was a pioneering French fashion designer whose modernist philosophy, menswear-inspired fashions, and pursuit of expensive simplicity made her an important figure in 20th-century fashion. She was the founder of the famous fashion brand Chanel. Her extraordinary influence on fashion was such that she was the only person in the field to be named on TIME Magazine's 100 most influential people of the 20th century. Early life Chanel was born on 19 August 1883 in the small city of Saumur, Maine-et-Loire, France. She was the second daughter of traveling salesman Albert Chanel and Jeanne Devolle. Coco was born in a peasant village. When she was 12 years old, Chanel's mother died of tuberculosis and her father left the family because he needed to work to raise his children. Because of his work, the young Chanel spent seven years in the orphanage of the Roman Catholic monastery of Aubazine, where she learned the trade of a seamstress. When Coco turned eighteen, she left the orphanage, and the ambitious young girl took off for the town of Moulins to become a cabaret singer. While she failed to get steady work as a singer, it was here that she met rich, young French textile heir Étienne Balsan, to whom she soon became an acknowledged mistress, keeping her day job in a tailoring shop. In 1913, she opened up her very first shop which sold a range of fashionable raincoats and jackets. Situated in the heart of Paris it wasn't long before the shop went out of business. This did not discourage her; it only made her more determined. Later years In 1939, at the beginning of World War II, Chanel closed her shops. In 1945, she moved to Switzerland, eventually returning to Paris in 1954, the year she also returned to the fashion world. Her new collection did not have much success with the Parisians because of her relationship with the Nazis; however, it was much applauded by the British and Americans, who became her faithful customers. The little black dress The narrow jacket Giorgio Armani(11 July 1934). He brought wide trousers, trouser suits, skirts-pencils to fashion. Giorgio Armani is an Italian fashion designer, particularly noted for his menswear. He is known today for his clean, tailored lines. He formed his company, Armani, in 1975, and by 2001 was acclaimed as the most successful designer to come out of Italy, with an annual turnover of $1.6 billion, and a personal fortune of $5 billion. Early life and fashion career Armani was born in Piacenza. From 1961 to 1970, he worked as an assistant designer at a fashion house Nino Cerruti, where he designed for the menswear label "Hitman". In 1970, he left the company to pursue freelance work. He partnered with Sergio Galeotti to establish a menswear label Armani in 1974, and introduced a women's wear line in 1975. His sister Rosanna Armani subsequently joined him. Armani achieved his international breakthrough by tailoring for numerous Hollywood names and especially for Richard Gere in the title role of American Gigolo in 1980. In 2001, Forbes named him the most successful Italian designer and estimated his net worth at $1.7 billion. He was given the same award five years later, as the magazine estimated his fortune at $4.1 billion. Innovations Armani designed made-to-measure suits for Christian Bale's character Bruce Wayne in The Dark Knight. The wide trousers The trouser suit The skirt-pencil Dolce&Gabbana is a duet of two Italian couturiers. They brought uncommon suits and extravagant evening and wedding dresses to fashion. The uncommon suit The evening dress The wedding dress This duet is Domenico Dolce (right) and Stefano Gabbana (left). The company “Dolce&Gabbana” was founded in Milan in 1985 . Miucha Prada (10 May 1949) brought men’s shirts like women’s dresses and uncommon colorful suits to fashion. Prada is an Italian fashion label designed by Mario Prada, specializing in luxury goods for men and women (ready-to-wear, leather accessories, shoes, and luggage and hats). Foundations The company was started by Fratelli Prada (English: Prada Brothers) and by Mario Prada as a leathergoods shop in Milan, Italy. His shop sold leather goods and imported English steamer trunks and handbags. Runway shows Prada, along with Calvin Klein and Gucci, is known for the practice of casting new models to walk exclusively in their runway shows. The men’s shirt like women’s dress The uncommon colorful suit Guccio Gucci (1881—1953 ). He brought evening dresses and expensive daily clothes for women to fashion. The House of Gucci, better known simply as Gucci, is a Florentine fashion and leather goods label, part of the Gucci Group, which is owned by French company PinaultPrintemps-Redoute(PPR). Gucci was founded by Guccio Gucci (1869 – 1953) in Florence in 1921. Gucci generated circa €2.2 billion worldwide of revenue in 2008 according to BusinessWeek magazine and climbed to 41st position in the magazine's annual 2009 "Top Global 100 Brands“ chart created by Interbrand. Gucci operates about 278 directly operated stores worldwide and it wholesales its products through franchisees and upscale department stores. History In 1947, Gucci introduced the bamboo handle handbag, which is still a company mainstay. He had four sons—Vasco, Aldo, Ugo, and Rodolfo. After Guccio's death in 1953, Aldo helped lead the company to a position of International prominence, opening the company’s first boutique in New York. Rodolfo tried to help direct the company. Record Guinness World Records cites the Gucci "Genius Jeans" as the most expensive jeans in the world. A pair of Gucci jeans that had been distressed, ripped and covered with African beads, when they debuted in October 1998 in Milan, were priced at US$3,134.CD The evening dresses The daily clothes Versachi & Gianni Versace (2 december 1946 -15 July 1997) Donatella Versace (2 May 1956) Gianni Versace usually referred to as Versace, is an Italian fashion label founded by Gianni Versace in 1978. The first Versace boutique was opened in Milan's Via della Spiga in 1978, and its popularity was immediate. Today, Versace is one of the world's leading international fashion houses. Versace designs, markets and distributes luxury clothing, accessories, fragrances, makeup and home furnishings under the various brands of the Versace Group. Gianni Versace was killed by Andrew Cunanan on July 15, 1997. His sister Donatella Versace, formerly vice-president, then stepped in as creative director of Versace and his older brother Santo Versace became CEO(Chief Executive Officer). Donatellas daughter Allegra Versace also owns 50 percent of the company since 2004. Versace's Style Department employs a group of designers and stylists who work in teams. Each team is specifically dedicated to each fashion line or label. These teams operate under the close supervision and guidance of Donatella Versace. The wedding dress The trouser suit Christian Dior (1905-1957) is a couturier and founder of house “Dior”. There are a lot of kinds of different accessories. Especially shoes. Headquartered in Paris, Christian Dior S.A. (more commonly known as Dior) is a French company which owns the high-fashion clothing producer and retailer Christian Dior Couture, as well as holding 42% of LVMH Moët Hennessy • Louis Vuitton, the world's largest luxury goods firm. Both Dior and LVMH are controlled and chaired by businessman Bernard Arnault. The Dior label is the namesake of designer Christian Dior who launched the haute couture empire in 1946. Christian Dior Couture, a division of the whole House of Dior, designs and produces some of the world's most coveted haute couture, as well as luxury ready-to-wear fashion, menswear and accessories. Today, Dior operates about 160 boutiques worldwide with plans to open more in the coming years. Competitors to the House of Dior include, among many, the fashion houses of Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Gucci, Versace, and Prada. History The House of Dior was established on December 16, 1946, in "a private house"at 30 Avenue Montaigne Paris B. However, the current Dior corporation celebrates "1947" as the opening year. Dior was financially backed by wealthy businessman Marcel Boussac. The new couture house became a part of "a vertically integrated textile business" already operated by Boussac. The shoe The shoe The shoe The shoe There are a lot of couturier of Dior’s business after Christian Dior. Christian Dior => Yves Saint Laurent => Mark Boan => Bernard Arno => Gianfranco Ferre Yves Saint Laurent (1 August 1936-1 June 2008) bring elements of men’s wardrobe to women’s wardrobe. They are leather jackets, jackboots and tuxedoes. He is the first couturier, who invited black model for presentation of his clothes. Yves Saint Laurent or YSL is a luxury fashion house founded by Yves Saint Laurent and his partner, Pierre Bergé. Today, its chief designer is Stefano Pilati. Yves Saint Laurent, founder of the brand, died in 2008. History Yves Saint Laurent was founded by designer Yves Saint Laurent and his partner, Pierre Bergé, in 1962. During the 1960s and 1970s, the firm popularized fashion trends such as the beatnik look, safari jackets for men and women, tight pants and tall, thigh-high boots, including the creation of arguably the most famous classic tuxedo suit for women in 1966, Le Smoking suit. He also started mainstreaming the idea of wearing silhouettes from the 1920s, '30s and '40s. He was the first, in 1966, to popularize ready-to-wear in an attempt to democratize fashion, with Rive Gauche and the boutique of the same name. He was also the first designer to use black models in his catwalk shows. Style Yves St. Laurent clothing has for decades been known for its refined and modern elegance. Decades before Giorgio Armani, Yves Saint Laurent clothing glamourized for women some items taken from the male wardrobe, such as the blazer, the tuxedo, the pant suit, the leather jacket. The leather jackets and the jackboots The tuxedo Black model introducing Yves Saint Laurent’s clothes Vyacheslav Zaytsev (2 March 1938). He brought a lot of uncommon and extravagant suits to fashion. Vyacheslav Mikhailovich Zaitsev more commonly known as Slava Zaitsev born 2 March 1938 in Ivanovo, Russian Soviet Federative Socialist Republic, is a Russian fashion designer, painter, graphic artist and theatrical costume designer. Career in the Soviet Union During the Soviet era, haute couture was dominated by Zaitsev and and he was compared to other world-renowned fashion designers such as Christian Lacroix, Christian Dior, Pierre Cardin, and Yves Saint Laurent, Zaitsev was seen as being to compete with Western designers, however, under the communist regime, the only country outside of the USSR where Zaitsev was able to work was Czechoslovakia. He said that if he had had a chance to show his collections abroad he would have been most possibly a world-famed brand. Career in Russia In 1991 he designed a new uniform for the Russian police, and was bestowed the title of Honored Worker in the Field of the Arts. By 1992, Jane Fonda, Ted Turner and Herb Ritts were amongst celebrities who became customers of Zaitsev, and in the same year Zaitsev launched a women's perfume named Maroussia, in conjunction with French-based L'Oréal. Style Zaitsev stated that his mother, Maria Ivanovna, was a cleaning lady and never owned a fancy dress. In 2004, the New York Times stated, "it is her stolid image that he has been dressing all these years in flounces and feathers, poufs and peplums, gold and glitter. During the Soviet era, he regularly complained that he designed collections for the "larger" woman in the 1970s, but only models up to size 48 were accepted for production. Whilst Zaitsev regards fashion designers Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, Gianfranco Ferré and Hubert de Givenchy as idols, his own creations are strongly influenced by traditional Russian and Slavic styles, and his collections include a variety of theme-based shows reflecting his take on the industry at the time. Past collections include the Millenium of the Christianisation of Russia in 1988; Russian Seasons in Paris in 1988; Agony of Perestroika in 1991; and Recollections of the Future in 1996 – 1997. The uncommon suit The extravagant suit Valentin Yudashkin (14 October 1963). He brought a lot of splendid evening dresses to fashion. Valentin Abramovich Yudashkin is Russia’s most famous fashion designer and a decorated member of the Academy of Arts of the Russian Federation. He is also honored with a rank of National Artist of Russia. His clothes are displayed in the Louvre Museum of Clothes in Paris, the California Museum of Fashion in Los Angeles, the Metropolitan Museum in New York, the State Historical Museum in Moscow and in other museums around the World. His first collection was created in 1987, and he has since created more than fourty collections. “Valentin Yudashkin’s House of Fashion” has existed since 1988. Today his clothing collections comprise both haute couture and prêt-a-porter, and accessories, jewelry, porcelain and sun glasses complete the collection. Valentin Yudashkin’s collections have been shown during the weeks of haute couture and prêt-a-porter in Paris, Milan, New York, and other cities. The evening dress The evening dress The evening dress As you see, each of the named couturiers has his or her own style and people can choose what they like. As for me, I suppose, I’m rather fashionable. I don’t wear great couturiers’ clothes. I like clothes that are comfortable, unusual, bright and fashionable. I usually wear jeans or skirts and T-shirts that I buy in “MEGA”. I like stores “Stockman”, “Zara”, “Stradivarius”, “Oysho”, “Sepala”, “United Colors of Benetton”, “Bershka”, “Vero Moda”, “Ecco”, “Peacocks”, “Sketchers”, “Next”. They aren’t very expensive, but they sell trendy clothes to my mind. I love formal occasions like weddings when you have to put on a dress or a suit. Some people I know buy their clothes at the local supermarket where the prices are low but these clothes aren’t beautiful and fashionable in my opinion. I know there are people whose style is easier, more classic and simple, but I’m happy just being me. Bibliography: • • • • • • • • • • • • Бринк Я. Российская мода сегодня. Джем, 2007, 168 стр. Кто есть кто в мире моды. Новая Линия, 2006, 178 стр. Charles-Roux, Edmonde (2005). The world of Coco Chanel: friends, fashion, fame. London: Thames & Hudson. pp. 383 pages. Alicia Drake. The Beautiful Fall: Lagerfeld, Saint Laurent, and Glorious Excess in 1970s Paris. Little, Brown and Company, 2006. 490 pages. Oliver,Jasmine Armani Angels (Project Fashion). Fashion, 2008. 210 pages. Mower, Sarah. Gucci by Gucci.Fashion, 2006. 180 pages. Oliver,Jasmine.Prada Princesses (Project Fashion). Fashion, 2005.195 pages Shugaar A. Dolce & Gabbana. Fashion Album. Skira,2006. 390 pages Ball,Deborah.House of Versace: The Untold Story of Genius Murder and Survival. Amazon, 2009.220 pages Chenoune,Farid.Dior.Assouline,2007. 200 pages Юдашкин В.А.Valentin Yudashkin. Слово,2009.150 стр. Зайцев В.М.Слава Зайцев.Тайны Соблазна. Искусство-XXI век, 320 стр. It is Thank you for your attention!