Traditional costumes of Greece, Italy and Portugal

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Transcript Traditional costumes of Greece, Italy and Portugal

Kyriaki Gaitanidou
The costumes of Greece are a beautiful part of a very rich
cultural history. This is just a brief overview of the subject and will
include only a few representative examples of some of the
costumes that were worn traditionally by the Greek people.
• Greek folk costumes can be traced back to elements in ancient
Hellenic and Byzantine costumes.
• the costumes of the mainland and of the islands are different.
Furthermore, the costumes of each area tend to have several
elements in common.
• All Greek costumes share similar materials, construction, parts,
and designs, but the costumes in the local regions share other
individual characteristics which are often very different from
those of the costumes of other regions.
• we can identify costumes as being from Epiros, or Mesogeia, or
Makedonia; however, we can further narrow the identification
of costumes to smaller areas within these broader geographical
and cultural areas.
• We can even identify a costume's village based on individual
features such as the shape of a costume part, or the colors or
the embroidery designs used.
• One generalization about the Women's costumes concerns the main
parts of their traditional dress. Most of the mainland costumes in
particular feature a cotten chemise (poukamiso) as the basic garment.
On the body, over the chemise, there is a sleeveless vest which is
usually made of wool. These may be short or long. Sometimes they
are of homespun wool, but in some areas they are made from finer
factory woven wools. They are sometimes black, sometimes white.
Sometimes in urban areas, they are made from velvet. Other
important elements of the women's costumes are various types of
aprons, sashes, and head coverings. The head coverings are usually
large scarves of various materials and colors. They are often
decorated with block printing or embroidery. Materials and colors
often vary, as do the local names of all of these costume elements.
These parts may include:
• 1) a long chemise, the Poukamiso;
2) a sleeveless vest, the Segouni;
3) an apron, the Bodia;
4) a sash, the Zonari;
5) a scarf, the Mandili;
6) shoes or other foot coverings, the Tsarouhia;
7) various decorative jewelry decorates the chest, head
covering, neck, and/or other areas
• Some generalizations about the Men's costumes also hold true. There are two
main types of costumes found on the mainland. The most popular (especially
since the War for Independence of 1821) has been the Foustanella and its
variations. Variations of this costume for men with the distinctive skirt or kilt
exist in all regions of the mainland. Sometimes the kilt is connected to an
upper part to help hold it up, while in other areas the skirts are worn as a
separate part around the waist. There are also variations in color, style, and
decoration. Another type of Men's costumes features some sort of baggy or
full cut trousers in place of the skirt or kilt. Sometimes these are present as a
variant type of costume in place of the foustanella in a given region or
village. An example of this is the men's trouser variation that coexists with the
skirt type costume in Metsovon. On the islands, however, the very full cut
Vraha which reaches to just below the knees takes the place of the skirts or
kilts of the mainland Greek.
Once again, we can make some generalizations about the main parts of the
traditional dress of the men. Materials, cut, and colors, often vary.
We most often find these elements in the men's costumes:
• 1) a shirt, the Poukamiso;
2) a vest, the Yeleko or Meindani;
3) a skirt or kilt, the Foustanella;
4) leg coverings, the Kaltses;
5) leg garters, the Gonatares;
6) a sash, the Zonari;
7) a hat, the Fesi, or Koukos;
8) shoes or other foot coverings, the Tsarouhia;
9) various decorative belts or jewelry often decorate the chest
or other areas
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tLFVcgkw9xo&feature=pla
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• One notable traditional Italian fabric is a waterproof type of
wool called orbace.
• The women wear colorful embroidered skirts and bodices over
light-weight chemises or blouses, with elaborate hats decorated
with flowers or fruit. Men's traditional clothing tends to be
simpler, but doesn't lack from attention to detail, with
embroidery and metal buttons and pins. These costumes evolved
from simpler peasant dress in the Middle Ages.
• Peasant women wore hats that covered the head with a square,
flat section that curved or angled down to cover the back of the
head and the neck. The flat top helped the women carry
baskets to market. This style eventually evolved into hats with
artificial flowers or fruits worn by upper class women, mimicking
a peasant carrying a basket on her head.
• The clothes worn by wealthy Italian women looked like peasant
garb, but they used richer fabrics like silk and velvet. The rich
also had access to colorful dyes, so the color palette varied
more widely. Upper-class Italian women also tended to wear
more jewelry than peasants
• For special festivals even peasant women had beautiful dresses
and bodices. These were dyed in bright colors, hand-crafted
with detailed embroidery and sometimes used better fabrics.
The dresses were passed from mothers to daughters for
generations. Because many of the special events the dresses
were worn for were harvest festivals, food and nature themes
are prevalent in the design. Later, the Catholic Church co-opted
these celebrations and turned them into saints' days, so Christian
themes appear often as well.
• Traditional men´s costumes were less elaborate. Usually
consisting of tight pants tucked inside long boots. Obviously,
white trousers dirtied easily and were, in the past, difficult to
clean, so white pants were worn only on special days when
farmers did not work, or worn by more affluent men who did
not work on the land. They also wore a shirt with a tight
waistcoat, often a vest or a jacket and a hat. The shape of the
hat depended on the region. In the North people wore harder,
more rigid hats, whereas, in the South, people wore a softer
one such as a berretta.
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qRersmDsH1Y&feature
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•
• Bright and vivid colors are a peculiar feature of Portuguese
national clothes. Women prefer bouffantlong skirts made of
striped or checkered fabrics (known as saia), while men shortened leggings (calsas), waistcoats and sombreros.
Kerchief is an obligatory part of the national costume of the
Portuguese women. Moreover, the national
clothing style might vary regionally:
from the rich and colorful costumes in
Minho to the shy dresses
and black kerchiefs in Coimbra.
• The cultural heritage of Portugal is a blend of complex
civilizations as the country possesses a very long history.
The Portuguese people are very well-known for the festive
and cultural celebrations and participations in carnivals, art
performances, music and dances.
• Traditional dress of Portugal is truly a gift of centuries old
civilization and in every region; you’ll find slight variations in
the traditional costumes. For men, the traditional dress may
commonly include berets, stocking caps, baggy shirts and
trousers while for women, long dresses, skirts, scarves and
shawls may be the traditional stuff.
• The typical traditional Portuguese woman with puffy skirt
and kerchief along with loose and white blouse. She’ll love
to wear such skirt with lace-trimmed neckline and cuffs with
several petticoats. This skirt is normally
made of heavy wool or linen.
If of wool, it has a background color of
either red or blue/green, with narrow
stripes of other colors widely spaced.
Headscarf is also a particular choice of a Portuguese woman.
In winter, the women also use dark-colored shawls. Colorful
embroidery and magnificent patterns on the bodice are
significant factors in the traditional outfits of Portuguese
women.
• The traditional red outfits are generally considered to be
worn by younger women. The blue or green versions are
worn in times of semi-mourning or other sadness, such as
the absence of a loved one, and by older women. Some
women still wear the black-mourning dresses in memory of
their loved-ones for a period of two years.
It is also normal to wear gloves
that are made of fine cloth or leather.
• The lavradeira folk costume of Portugal is typically
associated with the Portuguese culture and people. Viana do
Castelo in Portugal is known for the traditional
NossaSenhora da Agonia festivals where the women
normally dress up in the colorful lavradeira dresses.
Elaborate embroidery and gold necklaces are particular
features of these dresses.
• The traditional Filigree or filigree ornaments are so popular
among the Portuguese women. These ornaments usually
consist of gold and silver jewelry prepared with spectacular
and delicate art-work. This art may include in sophisticated
curling, twisting and plaiting fine pliable threads of metal,
and uniting them at their points of contact with each other,
and with the ground, by means of flux such as borax, by the
help of the blowpipe.
• The Portuguese men traditionally wear dresses including
white and collarless shirts along with jackets and adorned
waistcoats. The closing at the top of the shirt is decorative
with double collar links. The front of the shirt is often
decorated with pleats or lace.
The Portuguese jacket is like a tailcoat that has
been cropped at the waist, with vertical pockets
and a row of buttons on the sleeves.
The waistcoat is normally having a V-neck that allows the shirt
to be seen. The trousers are normally black and normally are
cut straight, without cuffs, and end just above the ankle. The
Portuguese men also prefer to wear the wide-brimmed and
flat-topped black hats.
• One should not forget that the traditional Portuguese riding
outfit is also important part of the country’s heritage which is
also known as TrajePortuguês de Equitação. It is thought that
the Portuguese started to wear the dress in the late 19th and
early 20th centuries as formal attire. old civilization.
• The dress is even worn by the Portuguese men and women
during horse races, fairs and other major festivities.
Nowadays on the spots of tourist attraction many locals
fascinate the foreigners by wearing traditional dress of
Portugal which is a gift of centuries
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FoksxMZveWo&feature=pl
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