Transcript Document
fashion – home décor – fragrance – beauty – candles – innovations – trends
2012 EUROPEAN TREND GUIDE
Copyright 2012 Sozio, Inc.
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EUROPE
A B O U T /////////////////// FACTS & FIGURES
2010 France UK Germany Europe 27 consumption In tons and % 35219 (6%) 40086 ( 7%) 203769 (32%) Market value million euro 267 (9,75%) 245 (9%) 846 (31%) 650 538 (100%) 2740 (100%) population in % 13% 12,5% 16% 100% The French, UK and German markets weigh 45 % of the global European markets while their population represent 41,5 % of the total 27 countries.
But discrepancy is high among the 3 countries: The German market is by far the largest and undergoes a steady growth between 2008 and 2010 : + 7 %.
The German are the heaviest consumers ; the market represent 31% of the total value for 16% of the population.
The UK market has tremendously increased in 10 years : + 50 %.
France is # 3 in volume but # 2 in value.
Both French and UK markets suffered some decline in 2009 but 2010 has shown a rebound in France : + 7 % and UK + 25 %.
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A B O U T /////////////////// HISTORY
Historically, southern European countries lit their homes with oil lamps till the 20 th century while northern European countries (Scandinavia , Germany, Netherlands) used candles. In the Mediterranean countries candle usage was reserved to church. This explains why the French market still lags behind ; usage have changed recently and France is now also following the global trend of decorative and therapeutic usage of candles at home. In Germany lighting candles has always been part of every day life and culture. Christmas trees are still lit with real burning candles. Each year, on the 11 th of November the Saint Martin fest takes place ; red and violet candles are lit in the streets. This fest has always been the signal of the entry in the long winter, the dark nights and the human hopes for warmth and sun return.
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FRANCE
A B O U T /////////////////// MARKET
Penetration rate is 60% among French households in 2010.
40% of the volume of the total market is done by perfumed candles. 20% of the sales are performed in FDM.
The rest flows through specialized channels : decoration shops, department stores and retail branded shops. In FDM channel the major brands are : SC Johnson, the strong leader followed by Benckiser ; Procter and Gamble the third player has recently introduced perfumed candles on the market ; its marketing manager explained that the development of this segment stronger than their traditional businesses made it appealing for the company. Copyright 2011 Sozio, Inc. What ever the channel and the type of customers vanilla remains the top selling fragrance.
Top sellers of Body shop in France are : Vanilla, jasmine & frangipane, mandarin & tangelo. One of the characteristics of the French market lies in its number of independent labels, luxury companies that are famous and big sellers ; this is probably to be linked to the tradition of luxury fine fragrances in France. www.jesozio.com
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FRANCE
A B O U T ///////////////////
The major luxury brands : “Dyptique”, # 1 in France and # 3 in UK.Its fragrances “Figuier”( fig tree),“Feu de bois”(wood fire)and“Baies”(blackcurrant/ross) are big hits in France, Germany and the UK. “Cire Trudon” historical French house has just opened in store in London in December 2011.
MARKET
Point à la Ligne The candles market follows the trend of the fine fragrance market. Next to the big names and big sellers emerge numerous niche brands ; each of them is based on a specific concept, a charismatic “nose” and the will to propose creative fragrances away from the crowd.
Examples : Aster de Villatte / Honoré des prés / Francis Kurkdjian / Juliette has a gun… / The Scandinavian Brand BYREDO is also highly praised.
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France
WHAT’S ON THE MARKET
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1. Air Wick, multi coloured candle 2. Brise, the range of perfumed candles 3. Febreze, “vanilla cream” 4. Yves Rocher “mulberry, peach, vanilla” 4.
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A L L GERMANY A B O U T /////////////////// MARKET
The German market is characterized by a consumption which is the double of the other 2 markets.
When asked what is their preferred buy for the home candles is quoted by the respondents at 40% just behind flowers (42%) and before table decoration 24% Lots of the sales are done through the FDM channels ; that is why the medium price is much lower than the medium price of the 2 other markets. In the market coexist the massive seller Ikea with tea lights (2,50 Euros the 24) and some famous producers. German do not praise brands ; the consumers who look for quality do not rely on brands ; they focus on the producer, the origin (made in Germany still means something there compare to the massive imports from Poland or China).
As expert their criteria of choice will be based on the components (oil/wax …) the length of burning time, the dyeing technic, the fragrances origin (natural or not).
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A L L GERMANY A B O U T /////////////////// MARKET
The content, the presentation also count ; that is what you see in your home but outside box, or brands do not matter. That is why German people favor very decorative candles presented in special shapes : tower figurine, golf balls, horse heads, flower shapes...
Traditionally best selling fragrances in spring are vanilla and citrus, in summer rose, lavender, and flowers , in autumn woody fragrances and in winter time cinnamon, pine cone, and fire place ambiance.
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Germany
WHAT’S ON THE MARKET
1. 1. IKEA, Tindra candles “brown” Blockkerze, duftend, beige 2. IKEA, Tindra in a glass “eis” (ice) 3. Eisbecher candle (ice-cream candle)
4. Latte Macchiato Kerze – Latte Candle
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ENG LAN D
A B O U T /////////////////// MARKET
90% of the candles are bought by women. The use has moved from social decorative use to personal use (relaxation, time out) ; the living room and dining room are still the main placements of perfumed candles.
The hits in fragrances are :
• • • Flowery in spring : lavender, jacinth, jasmine, rose , gardenia , herbal fragrances. Fruity in summer : watermelon, mango, fig, tangerine. Gourmand in autumn pumpkin, oatmeal , vanilla, hazelnut. Fruity and seasonal in winter : sugar cookie, bayberry, and apple, peach, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, ginger, Christmas tree and fire place.
Copyright 2011 Sozio, Inc. Body shop top sellers are : mandarine & tangelo, vanilla, aloe soft linen. A special segment is devoted to “male ambiance” : fragrances inspired by leather, tobacco, cognac. www.jesozio.com
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A L L ENGLAND A B O U T ///////////////////
MARKET Lots of brands animate the UK market.
Colony is #1, Yankee candle #2 and Dyptique # 3 (Fig and Feu de bois are the big hits). 30 % of the market is done by imported products.
Important local brands are :
Prices, Floris (royal supplier), the Body shop, Molton Brown, Jo Malone, Laura Ashley, Miller Harris. Like the French market the UK market has welcomed lots of niche brands that meet the desire of singularity and heighten diversity and freedom through anti conformist concepts and fragrances. The UK market is the most concerned by the danger of fire ; the government communicated after the strong increase of fires, injuries and the deaths of 100 citizens ; the UK fire service resources has issued recommendations and warnings ; lots of sites on internet are active on denouncing the dangers of candles at home. www.jesozio.com Copyright 2011 Sozio, Inc.
England
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WHAT’S ON THE MARKET
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Male Harrods,“leather tobacco cognac” Sanderson, “Spiced Pear and Ginger” Saint Eval “Tranquility” Penhaligon’s “Maduro leaf” (spicy, leather and cigarette)
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A B O U T ///////////////////
Different trends coexist and can be mixed :
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Functionality and technology
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Atmosphere, organic and green
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Clean fresh and pure ; the new morality
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Authenticity and nature - Lost paradise - Small indulgence - Singularity and sensations
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Seasonal
Outside world is not so friendly ; economical crisis, forced social changes, global warming and pollution generate fear and anguish. Future is no more inviting.
Home is the refuge where to resource and stop ; take time, relax and seek a truce from our busy and hectic life, from intrusive elements (work, phones, technology...) Interior fragrances have a particular role to play : They help to close the door to the outside world ; they prevent the invasion of pollution, bad air.
TRENDS
They favor relaxation and well being ; they help to escape from every day life and provide some exoticism. They offer rituals with different steps and familiar gestures that bring serenity and change of mood.
The choice of fragrances of candle is also a way to express one ‘s intention : unwind, look for sleep, create an ambiance for a party… They are the signs of exceptionality or proximity.
They make the home more personal, more welcoming and refined.
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A B O U T /////////////////// THE GREEN MARKET
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Esteban, “100% Natural” Hervé Gambs, “Herbe intense” Honoré des Prés, bio fragrance “Green” 3.
We share the home with family guests and pets. There is a growing concern among people of the dangers of paraffin candles, of their chemical components and fragrances. Strong demand for “bio candles”, “natural wax”, ”soybean”, “natural fragrances” is expressed in Germany ; the green is already a mature trend there ; in France and in the Uk it is slowly growing. General speeches are conveyed that emissions of burning candles are toxic ; they are dangerous and carcinogens. Expected perfumes are from natural extracts, naturals oils.
At the same time scented products are supposed to generate allergy, harm sensitive people ; they are a danger for health and especially people who suffer from respiratory difficulties. It usually leads people to imagine a type of “one flower” scent ; and from a recognizable flower or plant. Powerful green, energetic citrus, cologne and fresh fragrances are in the mood of that trend.
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1. True Grace, “grapefruit” (natural wax) 2. Lima and Eve, bio-fragrance “White Garden” 3. Emmanuel Levain, bio-fragrance “Moss ambre” 4. Country Living bio-fragrance “Citrus and green tea”
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A B O U T /////////////////// CLEAN, FRESH & PURE
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1. Votivo ,“Crisp white” 2. Esteban,“Inspiration Cologne” 3. Byredo, “Cotton poplin” 4. Jo Malone, “Pear and freesia” 3.
As opposed to the gloomy outside world, home has to be a preserved safe clean and pure place.
Hygien is the sign of a clean home but also reflects a clean and clear mind ; there is a demand for transparency, a new clarity as if a new morality was expected to express the change of world people aspire to.
At our level a bright light illuminating clean sheets, fresh linen, transparent fabrics act as if a new virginity would envelopp us ; and make us new and candid. It brings evocations of airy atmosphere, fresh wind, early morning dew.
Light florals, green notes cologne, fresh fruits (watermelon…)
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c l e a n , f r e s h & p u r e WHAT’S ON THE MARKET
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Voluspa, “Maison blanc” Kenneth Turner, “Nature nurture” Bougie la Française, “Savon desLavandières” Wax Lyrical, “Spring clean” Laura Ashley, “Fresh linen” Parks, “Purity white”
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AUTHENTICITY A L L
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Parks, “Aromatherapy” True Grace, “Cedar” Byredo, “Ambre Japonais” Hype Noses, “Tea and kimono” 3.
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Active trend for those who love nature and its elements : water, stone, metal, wood, herbs.
There is no nostalgia of an untouched perfect nature nor the aspiration to escape from modernity but those adopters aim at the perfect mix of craftsmanship and men’ intelligence ; when human know- how transcend natural elements.
A smart communion between human ability to take the best out of nature and transform it into something artistic.
Some Asian influence, something of Japanese art of living is involved. Main drivers are aesthetics, purity, minimalism, balance with some roughness and strength.
Woody scents : Pine , oak, birch, lime tree and cedar with exotic newcomers : teak, oud, eucalyptus. Earthy notes : moss, fern, amber Noble material : leather. And exotic evocations like green tea, wasabi, bamboo, peppe Copyright 2011 Sozio, Inc. www.jesozio.com
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1. L’artisan parfumeur, “Tilleuls au vent” 2. Esteban, “Esprit de Thé” 3. Balmoral Trudon, “authentic earth and herb” 4. Collines de Provence, “bamboo, lotus” 5. Esteban, “Teck and Tonka”
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A B O U T /////////////////// LOST PARADISE
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Comptoir de famille, “Fruits d’Epices” Jo Malone, “Pomegranate” Marianne Guedin, “Amande” Stoneglow, “Fig and berries”
Our best kept secret may lay in our past. Our nostalgia of a cherished childhood is strong ; when we had less responsibilities, less concerns.
Flavors of “French goûters/snacks” back from school or cakes baked on Sunday transport us back to times when homework was the only pressure.
What is more anchored in our memories than cooking scents ?
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These fragrances evoking family gatherings, homemade cooking bring back joyful memories. And leave us with comfort and feelings of well being.
Evocations will be strongly depending on cultures : Cooking book bring all the palette of possibilities.
Among the 3 countries global classics remain vanilla n ° 1 everywhere, apple , chocolate, cinnamon, red fruits.
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WHAT’S ON THE MARKET
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1. Bougie Parfumée "Pot De Confiture", Bonbon Praline 2. Archipelago Caramel 3. Trish Mc Evoy Blueberry Vanilla 4. Bluebell - Happy Birthday
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SMALL INDULGENCE A L L
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A B O U T ///////////////////
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1. Dyptique, “34” 2. Pecksniff’s, “Naughty” 3. Linari - Velvet Series, «senso» 4. Baobab - Electrum - Khephren 4.
When the working day is over and we come home, we incline to unwind, benefit from our private time.
That is the moment to reward one- self with some affordable luxury.
Sophisticated fragrances would underline the luxury feeling.
Sensual notes, reassuring powdery scents :
Musk, amber, patchouli, floriental mix : tubereuse, gardenia, violet … These mini-luxuries and minor indulgences reduce our stress and lower our anxiety levels. They don’t solve anything, but they make us feel pampered and a little bit rich for a brief, but refreshing moment.
Lets offer a little gift to ourselves that makes us important and special.
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1. Kilian, “Love and tears” 2. Parks, “Sensuous red” 3. Miller Harris, “Oriental flower” 4. Baobab, “Masaai Spirit Candle” 5. Neom, Ylang Ylang, Frankincense & Patchouli
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A B O U T /////////////////// THE HOLIDAYS
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1. Dyptique “Epinette” (pine) 2. Cire Trudon Nazareth candle 3. Dyptique “Perdigone”
4. Ralph Lauren Holiday Grand Scented Candle - Red Currrant and Juniper
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Long evenings at home are the best moment to enjoy a warm welcoming home. Velvet fabrics, deep and rich colors, wonderful scents are part of decorating and feeling of well-being. Many brands benefit of the season to release special items to enjoy one-self or offer as gift. This trend is growing in France but widely spread in Germany and the UK .
Despite the trend of modern defined stylish xmas (in 2011 fashion was” white Christmas”) brands have launched new fragrances on traditional directions, as if our sense of odor was more conservative than us ; as if we had to remember the good old scents of former cherished moments .
Good memories of indulgent food, cookies and fruits : fig, cherry, orange, cinnamon and spices. Warmth of wood fire, or the scent of the xmas tree (pine...) or hike in a pine forest.
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1. Yves Rocher “Xmas spices” (red).
2. Gingered Woods Candle by Life NK at Space NK 3. Santal Cardamome Candle by Frederic Malle 4. Niki Jones “Woodland Scented Candle – Clove” 5. Jonathon Adler, Home for the Holidays www.jesozio.com
Boysenberry Preserves
Pompeian Red Pantone 18-1658 Baked Apple Pantone 18-1648 Red Ochre Pantone 18-1442 T: raspberry, blueberry, cassis, apple, pear M: jasmine, muguet, rose, cyclamen B: creamy vanilla, sweet musks
Fallen Leaves
Red Ochre Pantone 18-1442 Apricot Brandy Pantone 17-1540 Burnt Henna Pantone 19-1540 T: Red Apple, Pear, Peach, Sweet Orange, Citrus M: Cinnamon, Clove, Mixed Berries, Currant, Coconut, Mulled Spices B: Pine, Cedarwood, Tonka, Vanilla, Musks
Sugar Plum
T: Sparkling Citrus, Orange, Apple, Strawberry, Grape, Cassis, Peach M: Sweet Plum, Tart Cranberry, Raspberry, Sugared Rose, Green Leaves, Rhubarb B: Cinnamon, Clove, Jam-like, Caramel, Candied Violet, Rosewood Grape Shake Pantone 18-2109 Violet Ice Pantone 15-2706 Peppercorn Pantone 18-1409
Blue Spruce
Green Bay Pantone 16-5810 Laurel Wreath Pantone 17-6009 Frosty Green Pantone 15-5706 T: Green, Citrus, Bergamot, Orange, Pear, Peach, Pineapple, Mixed Berries M: Fir Needles, Lavender, Clove, Herbal, Aromatic, Green Foliage, Lily, Lilac B: Balsam, Cedarwood, Patchouli
Holiday Splendor
Ash Pantone 16-3802 Frost Gray Pantone 17-0000 Cloudburst Pantone 17-1502 T: Juniper Berries, Orange, Citrus, Raspberry, Green Foliage M: Jasmine, Rose, Clove, Cinnamon, Wintergreen, Fir Balsam B: Warm Amber, Cedarwood, Pine Needles, Musks
Wild Berry Tart
Beetroot Purple Pantone 18-2143 Red Plum Pantone 19-2025 Pink Flambe Pantone 18-2133 T: Mixed Berries, Red Currant, Orange M: Condensed Milk, Coconut, Vanilla, Buttery Notes B: Caramel, honey, Tonka, Toasted Crust
Country Spice
T: Sweet Orange, Citrus Zest, Lemon Peel, Peach, Apple, Berry M: Cinnamon, Clove, Ginger, Crushed Pepercorn, Neroli B: Tonka Bean, Creamy Vanilla, Musks, Woody Nuances Golden Glow Pantone 15-1050 Apricot Orange Pantone 17-1353 Auburn Pantone 18-1343
Glistening Snow
Aquamarine Pantone 14-4313 Milky Blue Pantone 15-4415 Aquarius Pantone 16-4530 T: Ozonic, Sheer Citrus, Invigorating Mint M: Frosted Rose Petals, Winter Jasmine, Snowflake Orchid, Iced Berries B: Sweet Balsam, Tonka, Sandalwood, Cedarwood, Musk, Vanilla
Frankincense & Myrrh
T:Fresh, Aldehydic, Rose M: Resinous, Incense, Nag Champa, Jasmine, Spices B: Patchouli, Amber, Sandalwood, Moss, Musks, Rosewood Whisper Pink Pantone 13-1107 Pink Tint Pantone 12-1404 Brush Pantone 16-1317
Velvet Poinsettia
Acorn Pantone 18-1314 Cornstalk Pantone 16-1315 Burnt Henna Pantone 19-1540 T: Apple, Rose, Velvet Gardenia M: Tuberose, Jasmine, Lily, Spices B: Vanilla, Amber, Patchouli, Musks
Sandalwood Suede
T: Dark Chocolate, Caramel, Condensed Milk M: Jasmine, Nutty, Herbal, Rosemary, Coconut B: Sandalwood, Patchouli, Creamy Vanilla, Musks, Toasted Tonka Bean French Roast Pantone 19-1012 Raw Umber Pantone 17-1422 Rawhide Pantone 18-1137
Enchanted Woods
Iron Pantone 18-1306 Wren Pantone 19-0614 Canteen Pantone 19-0820 T: Fresh Green, Muguet, Rose M: Jasmine, Cedarwood, Leather B: Teak Wood Accord, Sandalwood, Balsamic, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Musk, Amber
Apple Peel & Acorns
Sierra Pantone 18-1239 Caramel Pantone 16-1439 Mocha Bisque Pantone 18-1140 T: Fruity, Apple, Caramel , Creamy Coconut M: Almond, Coffee, Cocoa Powder, Cinnamon, Clove, Nutmeg B: Condensed Milk, Sweet, Vanilla
Raisin Scones
Sierra Pantone 18-1239 Caramel Pantone 16-1439 Mocha Bisque Pantone 18-1140 T: Cinnamon, Clove, Brown Sugar M: Milky Notes, Ripe Raisins, Poached Plum B: Vanilla Extract, Caramel, Baked Batter
Bayberry & Cinnamon
Acorn Pantone 18-1314 Cornstalk Pantone 16-1315 Burnt Henna Pantone 19-1540 T: Citrus, Herbal, Pine Needles M: Bay Leaf, Eucalyptus, Clove, Cinnamon, Peppercorn, Wintergreen B: Balsam, Camphor, Tonka, Cedarwood
Mulled Berries
T: Mixed Berries, Apple, Grape, Cherry, Pear, Pineapple, Cassis M: Strawberry, Raspberry, Violet, Jasmine, Green Leaves, Clove, Rhubarb B: Balsam, Camphor, Tonka, Cedarwood, Pine Needles Beetroot Purple Pantone 18-2143 Red Plum Pantone 19-2025 Pink Flambe Pantone 18-2133
Iced Currant
Canyon Rose Pantone 17-1520 Rose Dawn Pantone 16-1522 Marsala Pantone 18-1438 T: Sparkling Bergamot, Red Currant, Tart Berries, Apple, Peach, Apricot, Sweet Orange, Grapefruit M: Jasmine, Rose, Geranium, Green Leaves, Rhubarb B: Pine Needles, Sweet Musks
fashion – home décor – fragrance – beauty – candles – innovations – trends
2012 EUROPEAN TREND GUIDE FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:
Please Contact Tracey Lundquist at [email protected] or 732-572-5600
51 Ethel Road West – Piscataway, NJ – 732-572-5600 www.jesozio.com
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