Transcript Folie 1 - Body Cosmetic

MAXnolia H-instant
Protects skin against inflammatory aging
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2009
Inflammation
First response to infection or irritation
• Increase in local blood flow
• Migration and activation of the immune cells in the affected area
• Release of large amounts of free radicals
• Destruction of normal tissue
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2009
Chronic Inflammation & Aging
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Ideally, inflammation should clear out the infection and then subside to
allow normal tissue to be rebuilt. But inflammation may become chronic (in
case of a remaining infection, or an inflammation response that has become
too sensitive or because of autoimmune reactions)
Besides, as we age, we tend to develop chronic inflammation
Chronic inflammation contributes to the aging process notably because of
free radicals.
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2009
Chronic Inflammation in the Skin
leads to premature Aging
Chronic inflammation 
• fine lines and wrinkles
• enlarged pores
• puffiness, sagging
• reddening of the skin
Age-related increased level of chronic inflammation enhances adds to
inflammation-triggering factors such as
- the sun‘s ultraviolet radiation
- radicals coming from environmental pollution
- chemical irritants for people with sensitive skin
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2009
• Inflammation is now recognized as one of the key risk factors for
heart disease and stroke, an even bigger risk factor than high
cholesterol or homocysteine, according to some estimates.
Inflammation is also viewed as a contributor to common age-related
neurodegenerative diseases, such as Alzheimer's and Parkinson's.
• While keeping inflammation under control should
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2009
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Inflammation is now recognized as one of the key risk factors for age
related deseases such as heart disease and stroke.
Inflammation is also viewed as a contributor to common age-related
neurodegenerative diseases, such as Alzheimer's and Parkinson's.
In people in a weakened condition, usually an excess level of one or more
of the inflammatory cytokines, e.g., TNF-a, IL-6, IL-1(b), or IL-8 is found
An other process that contributes to this chronic inflammation is the
formation of AGEs (advanced glycation endproducts). As these degraded
proteins accumulate, they cause cells to emit signals that induce the
production of inflammatory cytokines.
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2009
Inflammation in Skin Cells: Biochemical
Pathways
NuclearFactor-kappaB: Transkriptionsfaktor involved in the control of a large number of processes, such as immune and inflammatory
responses, developmental processes, cellular growth, and apoptosis
IkB family of inhibitor proteins
NFκB is a transcription factor that is a major regulator of immune responses stimulated by pro-inflammatory agents such as tumor necrosis
factor, viruses, interleukin-1, and bacteria. NFκB normally resides in the cytoplasm bound by an inhibitory protein known as IκB.
Phosphorylation of IκB by IκB kinase-β (IKK-β) releases NFκB, which then moves into the nucleus where it acts in the induction of
numerous regulatory genes of the immune system. The products of these genes are pro-inflammatory factors.
Triggers
UV
Bacterial Infection
Chemical Irritant
Pollution
Radical
Autoimmune Reaction
ROS
Inflammation
Prostaglandins
COX
IkB kinase
enzyme
IL-1, IL-8
TNF-
iNOS
Matrix
Metallo
proteinases
Collagen
Destruction
nucleus
NF-kB
fibroblast
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2009
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2009
Nf kappa B von Cytosol in kern
Triggers
UV
Bacterial
Infection
Autoimmune
Reaction
Prostaglandins
Chemical
Irritant
Pollution
Radical
Inflammation
ROS
IkB
kinase
NF-kBenzyme
COX
Genes
IL-1, IL-8
TNF-
iNOS
Matrix
Metalloproteinases
Collagen
Destruction
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2009
MAXnolia H-instant as Natural NF-kB
Inhibitor
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Magnolia bark is a traditional
Chinese medicine to treat cough,
anxiety and allergic diseases.
The pharmacologically active
substance magnolol is a low
molecular weight lignan.
Magnolol has a broad spectrum
anti-inflammatory effect. It
suppresses the expression of the
inducible nitric oxide synthase
(iNOS) and the production of the
inflammatory cytokines IL-8 and
TNF-.
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2009
Inhibition of NF-kB by Magnolol: Mechanism
HO
H 2C
Magnolol
CH2
•
OH
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In non-stimulated cells, NF-kB is
sequestered in the cytoplasm by binding
to the inhibitory protein IkB.
When cells are activated, the enzyme
IkB kinase (IKK) phosphorylates the IkB
protein. Once phosphorylated, IkB is
quickly degraded by the proteasomal
pathway. Free NF-kB translocates into
the nucleus where it induces the
expression of inflammatory mediators
and matrix degrading enzymes.
Magnolol was shown to suppress NF-kB
activation through inhibition of the IKK
enzyme (Anfernee Kai-Wing Tse et al.,
Molecular Immunology 44, 2647-2658,
2007).
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2009
Inhibition of NF-kB by Magnolol: Mechanism
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In non-stimulated cells, NF-kB is
sequestered in the cytoplasm by binding
to the inhibitory protein IkB.
When cells are activated, the enzyme
IkB kinase (IKK) phosphorylates the IkB
protein. Once phosphorylated, IkB is
quickly degraded by the proteasomal
pathway. Free NF-kB translocates into
the nucleus where it induces the
expression of inflammatory mediators
and matrix degrading enzymes.
Magnolol was shown to suppress NF-kB
activation through inhibition of the IKK
enzyme (Anfernee Kai-Wing Tse et al.,
Molecular Immunology 44, 2647-2658,
2007).
HO
H 2C
CH2
OH
Magnolol
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2009
MAXnolia H-instant
INCI
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Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
Lecithin
Vitis Vinifera Grape Seed
Extract
Maltodextrin
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2009
Highly Optimized Powder Form
MAXnolia H-instant
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Spray dried extract of magnolia bark on a
carrier
Carrier is a mixture of lecithin and
maltodextrin
Powder can be dispersed directly in the
water phase
Liposomes are formed immediately
Active components are integrated in the
liposomes and are thus solubilized
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2009
Inhibition of Cyclooxigenase II (COX II)
Enzymatic Assay
100
Inhibition of COX II (%)
80
60
40
COX II = enzyme which
produces mediators of
inflammation
20
S-208
0
0.05%
0.1%
0.5%
2%
Concentration of magnolia bark extract
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2009
Anti-Irritation Effect
Placebo
MAXnolia-H-instant
90
Decrease in redness rel. to untreated (%)
80
70
60
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50
40
30
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20
10
S-227
0
Day 2
Day 3
Day 4
Use of occlusive patch with
2% SDS for 48 hours to
produce a local erythemal
irritation on forearm of 15
subjects.
Application twice daily of a
cream with 0.5% MAXnolia
H-instant during 7 days.
Analysis of skin redness
with Chromameter CR 300
(Konica Minolta)
Day 7
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2009
Anti-Aging Effect
Placebo
MAXnolia H-instant
12
Change in elasticity rel. to start (%)
10
8
6
4
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2
0
-2
-4
Study with 22 subjects over 56
days. Application twice daily of a
cream with 0.5% MAXnolia Hinstant in the crow’s feet area
and on the forearm. Analysis of
skin elasticity with cutometer
-6
Crow's feet
Underarm
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2009
Claims and Market Positioning
Antifungal, antibacterial
→ to treat impure skin
Anti-inflammatory
→ Anti-Aging
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2009
Advanced anti-aging skin care regime
• Products with anti-inflammatory activity
• Combination with antioxidant compounds
• Optimize the stratum corneum permeability barrier
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2009
Advantages of the new
• Preliposomes (instantly formed) -> optimal solubilisation and
delivery of actives into deeper skin layers
• High concentration of Lecithin -> stregthen the skin barrier
• High content of lipophilic plant metabolites thanks to EtOH
extraction
• No preservatives -> no restrictions for formulators
• And: no alcohol in the formulation
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2009