Transcript Lace Crochet - Bedford Public Library System

Lace Crochet
What it is…..
…and how to do it
What can you use lace crochet
for?
Traditionally, crocheted
lace has been used for:
• edgings
• insertions
• tablecloths
• bed linens
• doilies
• baby things
but….
those things have gone out of
fashion, for the most part
What else can you use lace
crochet for?
Modern applications can
be really stunning!
• Sweaters and tops
• Bikinis and sunwear
• Dresses and handbags
• Beaded capelets and
shawls for formal
occasions
Clockwise, from top left: Yves St. Laurent sleeved cape, Fall 2007; Chanel python
handbag, 2008; black bikini with boyshorts and white bikini top, both by Hawaiian
Delights Crochet; Chanel crocheted black dress, 2006; Dior purple crocheted top,
Summer 2007; ivory monokini, Mybikinibrazil; ivory one-shoulder dress, BMWear,
2008.
Variations on a Theme
There are different types of crochet lace:
french, filet and Irish crochet are the
most common.
Many modern patterns don’t specify what
kind of crochet they are.
Following is an exploration of some of the
different types of crochet and their
identifying characteristics...
Filet Crochet
Filet crochet is built in blocks.
Patterns can tend to look a
lot like they’re for crossstitch embroidery and the
two can be virtually
interchangeable, right
down to using multiple
colors.
“Main Line”tablecloth by Royal Society Hand Crochet, Book No. 1, copyright 1943
In a filet pattern, a filled-in
space is known as a “block”
and those that are empty
are simply referred to as
“spaces.” Designs are
generally 2-dimensional.
Crochet, n.o.s.
Regular crochet (sometimes
called “french” crochet in
older books) is the least
structural of the curvilinear
patterns. Common designs
include shells, pineapples,
fans and loops, with or
without picots, bobbles or
popcorn stitches. It is
usually only 2-dimensional.
Most crochet designs we see
today are of this type.
Lily Mills Company, Book #700-E, c.1940
Hairpin Lace
Picture courtesy of freepatterns.com; design by staff of Old Time
Crochet magazine
Hairpin lace is normally used for
edgings, but can be connected
to make entire pieces of
fabric.
It is most readily
identifiable by its wide, airy
construction that includes a
firm chain in the middle of
the piece for structural
integrity.
This type of lace requires the use
of a lace staple, known also as
a loom, frame or fork. It can
be made of any weight cord.
It reached its heyday during the Victorian era but is currently
undergoing a resurgence as designers rediscover its ultra-feminine
appearance.
Irish Crochet
Irish crochet is more structural
than other crochet styles,
incorporating figures in 3
dimensions instead of
merely 2. Most figures are
heavily outlined and worked
over a padding cord, making
them stand out against the
background.
It is readily identifiable
because of its distinct
curvilinear figures and the
picoted netting connecting
them.
Picture from Magic Crochet, August 2001, Number 133, page 14
Venetian Crochet
The most structural,
architectural style of crochet - and the one least found in
modern patterns -- is Venetian
crochet. Its 3-dimensional,
realistic figures can stand
alone without a backing or
netting and closely resemble
reticella embroidery, from
which the technique is
descended.
Picture courtesy of Iva Rose Vintage Reproductions (ivarose.com)
It was quite popular around the turn of the 20th century but
unfortunately has fallen into disuse. Anna Wuerfel Brown, whose
work was published between 1900 - 1920, was a master of this
technique. A cover featuring Venetian edging from one of her
books can be seen above.
Size matters…hooks
This picture shows the
difference between steel lace
needles and “regular” crochet
hooks
Lace Hooks -from right,
smallest to largest
“Regular” hooks-from right,
smallest to largest
Lace is made with steel needles
(also called hooks), and they’re
quite small. The higher the
number, the smaller the hook.
The most common sizes are 2, 4
and 7.
“Regular” hooks, the ones you find
most often, are aluminum or
plastic and usually sized
alphabetically. The largest
needle is a “Q” while a “B” is
the smallest. Afghans, for
example, are usually made with
size “H” or “J” needles.
How Do I Know Which Size
Hook To Use?
One of lace crochet’s idiosyncracies is that while most patterns
will tell you which size thread to use, it doesn’t always tell
you which size needle!
The key is,use:
• the finest, smallest size hook available
• that won’t split the thread.
So, for example, using a size 14 hook with bedspread cotton is a
bad idea, while using some of the larger sizes (2, 4 or 7) will
give you better results with a lot less frustration.
This can involve some trial and error.
Make a gauge swatch if you’re unsure.
Size matters…cords
Lace is usually made with
cotton, silk or linen thread.
The higher the number, the
smaller the cord. The most
common sizes are 5 (perle),
10 (bedspread) and 30
(edging). The picture at
right shows some examples
of typical lace cottons.
Most other crochet patterns, like afghans and sweaters, are
made with much bulkier yarns -- often the same size one
would use for knitting.
Points to Ponder…Crochet Cord
Here are some things to look for when you’re buying your first
cord. Though this is written with bedspread cotton in mind,
the rules apply equally to other fibers.
• Look for a thread that is very smooth and evenly twisted.
Snags, “bobbles” or other rough spots will end in frustration as
your hook catches the irregularities and distorts the pattern.
• “Excellent” doesn’t always mean “expensive.” You can find
terrific, smooth-as-silk cotton readily and the small price
variance between the cheap stuff and something more even
will make a world of difference in your finished product.
• Contrary to popular wisdom, no amount of starch will fix lace
made from poorly-made thread. If anything, it will make the
appearance worse.
Lace is a labor of love -- buy your materials accordingly
A Note About Patterns
Try an edging pattern first, in bedspread cotton (#10).
• You’ll need to learn basic stitches
• The larger thread allows you to see what you’re doing and it’s
readily available in a wide range of colors
• Edgings contain the most commonly-used “fabric” patterns for
garments
• The basics of increases and decreases are easier to study
• Gauge is critical to garment construction; edgings can help you
learn how you crochet. Tight? Loose? Somewhere in between?
• It’s a small project. If you find this is not for you, you haven’t
committed yourself to a project that is Not Your Friend.
Garments are truly lovely, but you may find yourself frustrated by
having to master sizing, gauge, construction and other fairly
advanced techniques all at once.
Filet Patterns
Filet crochet is probably easiest to learn, because:
• it’s built in blocks
• it involves very few stitches to learn (usually only chains,
single crochet and double crochet)
• it’s easy to count and see
• If you’ve got monochromatic cross-stitch patterns lying
around the house, they can be converted to filet without
much fuss
Filet is usually worked from edge-to-edge along the width of
the piece. The wider the piece, the more blocks you’ll
make.
It can, however, look clunky when finished, especially if your
work is in perle or bedspread cotton. Filet usually looks its
best when done in smaller cord (#30 or smaller).
Regular (“French”) Patterns
“French,” or regular, crochet can be worked either way -- from
side-to-side or along the length of the piece.
• It may involve more stitches to learn, but gives you a better
idea how traditional lace is “built”
• Lets you explore different kinds of lace applications,
including beadings (where ribbon is threaded through the lace
when you’re done) and medallions
• Lends itself to construction in bedspread cotton while not
looking clunky when you’re finished
• It involves a wider range of techniques for finishing -- and
beginning! Some patterns begin by “salding,” which means
that your foundation -- chain -- row is hooked directly onto
the piece. Salding eliminates the need to sew your lace onto
your project.
Materials You’ll Need
• Steel crochet hook, size 7
• Crochet cotton, size 10 (a.k.a. “bedspread
cotton”), 1 ball
• Pattern of your choice (really -- try an edging
pattern first)
All of these can be obtained at any craft store or
piece goods department for less than $10 -- and
free patterns can be found all over the web!
How do I start?
• Make a pretzel-shaped
loop in your fingers
• Use your needle to pick
up the “leg” that’s
underneath the pretzel
• Pull taut, but not tight!
Building a chain
• From the first knot
you just made, reach
out and hook the
thread coming off
the ball
• Pull it through your
first knot
• Repeat for desired
length
1
2
3
4
Common Stitches
This is a scan of a page from an old pattern book of mine published in 1937…..nothing has changed!
This is still the way it’s done.
Does crochet have a “right” side
and a “wrong” side?
Yes, but it’s more apparent in some patterns than in others.
Often a matter of personal preference, where in your loops
you start the next row can make a difference.
• Hooking into the back (a.k.a, back ridge) of a loop will produce
a braided effect on the right side of the work and produces a
very smooth edge
• Hooking into the top of a loop (as is most often found in filet
crochet) will make a very smooth surface, but not necessarily
a terrific edge
Some patterns specify which part of the loop you should hook
into. Feel free to use either method for patterns that don’t.
Crochet-to-English
Translation Guide
c or ch
h dc or hdc
sc
dc
t, tr, or tc
dt, dtr or dtc
tt, ttr, or tr tr
sl st
pc or pc st
bbl or mb
p
mp
bl
sp
rnd
cl or mc
ks
Chain (“c” can also mean “cord”)
Half double crochet
Single crochet
Double crochet
Treble (triple) crochet
Double treble crochet
Triple treble crochet
Slip stitch
Popcorn stitch
Bobble or “make bobble”
Picot
Make picot
Block
Space
Round
Cluster or “make cluster”
Knot stitch
Going ‘Round the Bend
At some point, everyone has to turn a corner.
Every crochet stitch has its equivalent number of chain stitches,
and your pattern should direct you as to how many chain
stitches you’ll need to “back up.”
For example: a pattern might read something like, “Crochet ch
slightly longer than desired length, turn. 1st row: SC in 2nd
ch from hook, sc in each ch across, turn. 2nd row: Ch 5 (to
count as dc and ch-2)….”
I find it easier to learn from older patterns printed in text rather
than symbols because they are so explicit. Just follow the
instructions! It’s easier than you think.
Turning Chains
“Turning Chains” are the back-up stitches needed at the
beginning of every row to make the height of your next
stitch.
• Slip stitches add no height, and therefore don’t need a
turning chain
• A single crochet is the same height as one chain. When
you’re asked to turn a corner in sc, remember that the first
stitch in sc is for height only -- it does not count as the first
sc in the row.
• For all other taller stitches, the turning chain does count as
the first stitch in the row or round.
See the chart on the next page….
Turning Chain Chart
# Turning
Chains
Required
0
Stitch
Slip stitch
Single crochet (sc)
1
Half double crochet (hdc)
2
Double crochet (dc)
3
Treble crochet
4
…..and so on……
The End
All good things must come to an end, and so it is with patterns.
Here’s how to fasten off without having your work unravel or
leave loose ends:
Method 1:
• After completing, make an extra chain stitch. Clip thread,
leaving an extra inch or so, and draw it in and out of the back
of the work where it won’t show. Keep drawing it in and out
of the work until it’s used up.
Method 2:
• Again, make an extra chain stitch as above but leave a longer
end. Thread a sewing needle with the tail and sew it securely
to the back of your work.
Suggested Links
• Antiquepatternlibrary.org
Wonderful site with scans of all kinds of antique pattern books now in the public domain.
Sharing is welcome, but these patterns are not for sale.
• Stitchdiva.com
The Stitch Diva is a shop with excellent tutorials. Of particular note is her tutorial on
hairpin lace.
• Vintagetextile.com
This is actually a shop for vintage clothing and accessories. Excellent photo gallery of
vintage laces in context.
• Ivarose.com
Reproductions of all kinds of antique pattern books for sale. Asmus Bradley, Corticelli,
Mary Card, Adeline Cordet, Emma Farnes, Anna W. Brown and Dorothy Bradford books can
all be found here.