Transcript Car Buying Seminar - China Outreach Ministries

Tom Lindstrom
[email protected]
China Outreach Ministries
www.comumn.org
Car Buying Seminar
Outline
• Understanding our assumptions
• Understanding Cars
• Dealing with People
• Dealing with Details
• Inspecting the Car
• Recommendations
Understanding Our
Assumptions
T/F Test
What REALLY Matters?
TRUE / FALSE TEST
• 1. Japanese Cars are the cheapest to drive
• 2. The more I spend purchasing a car, the
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more dependable it will be
3. Finding a reputable dealer is the most
important step
4. Getting a car is going to relieve a lot of
anxiety about living in the US
5. Cars with “Prior Salvage” stamped on the
title should always be avoided
6. New tires on a car shows it has been cared
for
Rank the following in order of
importance:
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Appearance
Reliability
Cost of
Maintenance
Gas Mileage
Ability to impress
my friends
Cheapest price
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Safety
Make of car (ie
Toyota)
Everything MUST work
all the time
Easy to park, learn to
drive, etc.
Lower anxiety about
vandalism, theft, etc.
What REALLY matters?
• Dependable transportation that
doesn’t interfere with your studies
• Lower anxiety regarding safety &
damage to your car while you learn
to drive
Understanding Cars
• When cheaper means more
expensive and saving money
means spending money!
• Sweeping Generalizations
• Understanding Wear Cycles
• Choosing a car based on thorough
research
• Tools for determining the value of
a specific car
Different Cars for Different People
• For most people, cars are pragmatic…just
transportation
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• But today, cars are increasingly about
image, fulfillment, even personal identity!
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• This discussion will focus on practical cars
• My recommendations will be for cars that
are more simple in design
• If you prefer a fancier car, the research
methods shown in this presentation will
also help you find such a car!
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Sweeping Generalizations
• Japanese cars have their faults, but they are
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typically more dependable. Repairs sometimes
expensive, but fewer.
European cars are well designed, ride very nice
and quiet, and have high satisfaction. But they
have lots of maintenance and repair issues.
American cars have numerous annoying faults,
but have improved greatly. These cars are
usually more practical in design, and there are
several that stand out as very reliable.
Which car represents the greater
value?
• 2007 car with 100k or a 2004
car with 50k? (Normal annual mileage is
12 - 15k per year)
• Import car in OK/poor shape or
a Domestic car in EXCELLENT
condition?
The Truth about “Economy Cars”
Rank the following Cars:
Which one costs $141 to replace the water pump?
Which one costs $624 to replace the water pump?
$33,000 MSRP
$18,000 MSRP
$545
$624!
$10,000 MSRP
$46,000 MSRP
$322
$141!
Who would think that this
car would have the most
expensive repair?
And who would think that you
could replace a water pump
on a $46,000 Cadillac for
under $150?
Of the cars on the previous page, the Acura would have the highest
rating for dependability…but @ $545 to replace the water pump…you
might want to think again about purchasing one!
So what is real economy about?
• Economy is about the bottom line…how
much does it cost to drive a car
• Satisfaction comes in many forms!
• What does economical transportation look
like?
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This is the cheapest car I have owned
1983 Ford Econoline 150
10 mpg, but…it was a second vehicle and we averaged
50 miles per week on it
Very cheap and easy to repairIf you are buying a car simply to go grocery shopping once
a week, MPG is a minimal consideration
Issues that contribute to costs
associated with buying a car
What are some costs associated with car
ownership that I can try to avoid?
How can I avoid these costs?
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Understanding Wear Cycles
Repairs 60 - 90k:
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Repairs beyond 100k:
Tires
• Alternator
Battery
• Water Pump
Exhaust
• Air Conditioning
Struts/Shocks
• Automatic
Transmission
ATF/Antifreeze
change
Sometimes a car with 100k on it is
Timing Belt
cheaper to drive than a
comparable vehicle with 60k on it
Various factor$ in car ownership
•Gas Mileage is only part of the cost of operating a car
•A car considered reliable isn’t necessarily the cheapest to drive
• Lower miles on a car do not necessarily mean less repairs
•Knowing your assumptions can lessen your disappointments
You probably don’t NEED a car after all!
There are other forms of transportation!
My Suggestions
• Consider a cheaper car for the purposes of
learning to drive
• Determine what causes you the most
anxiety about car ownership and try to
reduce your exposure to those risks
• Buy a car from a “Maintenance NUT”
Why consider this car?
• $1400 for a ’91 Accord with 215,000k !
The owner of this car kept meticulous records of
repairs and it drove absolutely like new!
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Or this car?
This car has an excellent engine, its safe, and it
won’t matter if you smash it up a little learning to drive!
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Why start with a cheaper car?
• Most new drivers are very nervous
• Nervous drivers make mistakes
• Mistakes cost $$$, raised insurance
premiums for years to come
~Thus, a cheaper car may help you have less
anxiety about driving and save you $$$
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If you want a cheaper car…
• Most of the rest of this presentation is still
applicable
• What is covered today will help you in
future purchases
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So where do we start?
• How do I decide what make and model of
car to buy?
• How do I know how much I need to
spend?
• What is the most “bang for the buck” in
terms of the usability of any given car?
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If you had time, you might start
your research at the
auto salvage yard!
What can you learn from a salvage yard?
Some cars give their owners the “Blues”
Some cars end up junked sooner than you would expect
Certain models have consistently defective major components
About 7-8 years ago, Mazda 626s started showing up
in salvage yards, even though they were less than 7
years old.
For Example…
Why?
There are other examples of failed car engineering…But how do we avoid such cars?
Finding the Right CarDoing your Research!
Researching the history and
reliability of specific models
In the case of the Mazda 626, I found a
website for complaining owners whose
transmissions failed
Obviously, our research has to
include sources that will help us
locate good cars and weed out the
bad ones!
• Periodical Literature
• Web sites; Governmental, Complaint sites,
Consumer Websites, etc
• The advice of mechanics, friends, relatives
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Periodicals
• Consumer
Reports is a
good place to
start
Examples of things in
Consumer’s Reports
• Which cars are the most
dependable?
• What new laws or
recalls will affect me?
• Complaints and
Recommendations
Helpful charts are Included in the annual Auto Issue
Millions of readers
contribute to the
data collected by
Consumer
Reports, making
their resources
some of the best
available for
comparing cars.
Every spring the auto
issue of Consumers
Reports will have
specific recommendations for used cars
in given price ranges
and budgets
But Keep it ALL in Perspective
A Consumers Reports rating is NOT the final word. Even
though these ratings are compiled statistically, they are still
based on people’s opinions which change year to year!
For example: PT Cruiser
PT Cruiser / Neon
• Same basic platform under the skin
• PT Cruiser enjoyed favorable ratings for a
few years while Neon’s ratings plummeted
• Psychological “buzz” wore off?
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Consumers Reports…
• Helpful resource
• But not the final word
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And, Consumer Reports doesn’t
include…
• Complete coverage of the costs of
maintaining a vehicle
• Costs of typical repairs
• How long a car actually lasts
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Hence…The CAR Book
• Compilation of Govern-
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ment data previously
unavailable to the
public
Focuses on Safety
Predicts maintenance
costs and charts total
costs of ownership
including depreciation,
etc.
Examples of helps The CAR
book can give:
• Summaries of replacement costs for major
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and minor components on popular vehicles
Estimates the costs for preventative
maintenance as prescribed by the
manufacturers of the new cars
Complaint charts
Crash test results
Depreciation (Use this in your favor…you can
get a 3 year old car for 60% of its new price!)
How much does a given car cost to repair
For a simple 5 mph collision?
Theft rates are listed
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Repair costs are listed too
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Depreciation varies a LOT!
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Where do you find the CAR
Book?
• Public libraries
• Ebay
• Direct from publisher
through contribution to
the Center for Auto
Safety, but only available
in Spring
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Other Resources: WEB searches
• To locate Automobile related websites, try
words such as “reliable used cars” or
“automobile complaints” or “defective
transmission” or “defective engine” or
“automobile complaints” or “automobile
recalls”, etc
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What you will find on the Web
• Lots of complaint web-sites, some profane
and not legitimate
• Some helpful things
• Some commercial sites, designed to make
money off all information they provide
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Some Helpful Web-sites
• www.samarins.com
• www.carsurvey.org/
• www.recalls.gov
• www.dmv.org
• www.nhtsa.gov
• www.consumerreports.org
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www.carsurvey.org
• Testimonials of individuals who own the
car you are interested in
• Look for length of ownership
• Look for substantive comments not “THIS
CAR IS TERRIBLE”
• Some people use this web site to VENT
their anger…probably not objective
criticism
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Listener call in Radio shows can
help you understand car problems
• Car Talk national radio show
http://www.cartalk.com/
Live mechanic chat for problems with your
car on the web. Humorous radio show!
Non technical evaluations of test drives
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Where to go for advice
• Your Host family
• Trusted people like your advisor, neighbors,
•
COM/HCC staff, etc
Ask around for referrals to a good mechanic – if
you pick your mechanic FIRST, and have him
recommend a car, you will always have
someone to repair it! (I will include referrals at
the end of this presentation)
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Are there exceptions – is it ever
wise to buy a car your research
says to avoid?
• Yes from a trusted friend
• Yes when maintainance records outweigh
faults
• Yes when you can accept the faults of a
vehicle
• Yes when the bad reputation doesn’t apply
to your vehicle (Ford Taurus 3.0 liter)
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Dealing With People
• Finding a Reputable Dealer
• Finding a “private party”
• Understanding Classified Ads
• Understanding “Minnesota Nice”
• Negotiating a Sale
Finding a Reputable Dealer…
(is that an oxymoron?)
• New Car Dealerships
• “Car Lot” used car dealerships
Buying a used car from a
New Car Dealership
Have a higher concern for “nice cars” on their lot
Get business based on name plate of
dealership, not on quality of service or repairs!
Lots of overhead, lots of salespeople means they
have to keep standards up (and prices!)
Get first pick of the used cars at the best prices
Used Car Lots
Typically have less concern for repeat business
Finding a reputable Used Car Lot is one
thing…Finding a good car on such a lot is
another!
Nearly ALL the cars here were rejected by
New Car Dealerships for some reason!
Locating a car from a
“Private Party”
• You may want to buy a car directly from
the person who knows the most about
it…the owner!
• PP can tell you about repairs done, how
the car was driven, etc.
• Buying from a PP often is a rewarding
experience
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How do I locate a Private Party
who is selling their car?
• Classified Ads in MN Daily, Tribune,
Pioneer Press, Auto Trader, etc.
• Web sites
• Bulletin Boards at local establishments
• Friends/referrals
7/7/2015
Pros & Cons of the Classified Ads
• Ads are expensive, so sellers
are motivated to sell quickly!
• Lots of competition getting to
the right car before someone
else
Terminology of the Classifieds
• Babied
Owner claims vehicle has had all the “TLC” of a
newborn baby
• Sharp Vehicle is attractive overall
• Good runner Usually means the car is ugly, but
dependable
• Highway miles
Owner is claiming the high miles show
less wear than you would expect normally since it was “Highway
miles”
• Mint Car is in virtually new condition…no flaws at all
• Clean Usually meant to convey the body has no rust
Pros and Cons of Web Searches
• Sites like www.carsoup.com have lots
of listings with photos
• Slow turnover - Seller has lots of time
to wait for his price…may be overpriced
or need repairs (look at photo, try to
date when the vehicle was listed)
Web Sites with Used Car Listings
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www.minneapolis.craigslist.org Fast response
www.autotrader.com Free Carfax report
www.cars.com Best/Worst ratings, crash tests
www.edmunds.com
www.carsoup.com
www.automart.com Certified Cars listed
www.autoextra.com Free VIN # check
www.autoweb.com
www.automotive.com
www.usedcars.com
And believe it or not, EBAY (but be wary)
Used Car Scams! (Craig’s List)
~Too good to be true
~Out of state seller
~Moving story that goes with the sale
~Kind, caring emails
~No money down until trust is
built, then immediate need
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More Used Car Scams
• Title swap; Out of state car mixed with in
state car for advantages of hiding high
miles or other defects
• Salvage vehicle titled across state lines
avoiding “Prior Salvage” designation
• Out of state title not matching car at all
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EAST MEETS WEST
China vs. “Minnesota Nice”
Just what is “Minnesota Nice?”
• Polite passiveness
• Indirect answers to your questions
smothered in sickly smiles
• Better to be a doormat than to upset
anyone!
• Saying little or nothing when upset, yet
bearing a grudge for a long time
I have found a car…how do I
determine what it is worth?
• Carry a NADA guide, available at bookstores
• Check the web: www.edmunds.com,
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www.kbb.com, www.carsoup.com, newspaper
classifieds, Auto Trader
Be careful to deduct for everything you can in
determining value, and enter the EXACT model
After looking at a few cars you will know their
value, and you may refine your search
It is NOT a criminal act to ask MORE than
“book” value- some cars are worth more
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Advantages / Limitations of
doing a Title Search
• Doing a title search can help you with
information about the car’s history, but…
• Not all damage / repairs are recorded
• Interstate title transfers sometimes strip
titles of associated records
• MN record keeping and titling is NOT
perfect. The DMV makes mistakes in
titling cars
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How can I do a title search?
• Find the VIN# of the vehicle
• www.carfax.com $25 for unlimited checks
for 30 days or $20 for a single VIN check
• www.autocheck.com (one free check)
• See note on salvage titles
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Inspecting the Car
• First Impressions
• Things you can inspect yourself
• Professional Inspection
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Things you can check yourself
• Before taking the car for a professional
inspection, check what you can yourself;
you may find flaws that will remove the
car from consideration and further time
and expense
• If after you check the car over you are still
interested in it, a professional inspection is
the next step before negotiating a price
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If you are buying a “beater” to
learn to drive, ignore this, but
• Pay attention to how the car looks to you
• Look for evenness and consistency in the
paint, door gaps, etc.
• Check to see that doors, windows, locks
all work (non-functional things can be SO
annoying!)
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Things you can check yourself
• Check all VIN numbers to see that they
match. These are located in door jambs,
inside hidden areas, etc. Often vehicles
that have sustained body damage have
missing or non matching #’s
• Check www.carfax.com (or similar site) to
see if the car has ever had a Salvage title
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Helpful Website
• http://www.samarins.com/buying/
• This website has very complete advice on
inspecting things for yourself
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Before Starting the Car
• Lift the hood; check fluids
• Inspect Radiator, hoses, belts
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Starting the Car
• Listen to the car start cold…there should
be no unusual sounds from the motor
• Look out the rear of the car. There should
be no blue smoke. Some steam is normal
for a few minutes, but not smoke.
• After the car warms a little, put the
transmission in R. It should not lag before
engaging.
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Inspect the Tires
Abnormal wear can
tell you things about
the car the owner
may not know!
Front end and suspension work is expensive
Automatic Transmission Fluid
• The fluid should be pink, have little odor
• If the fluid is brown, smell it. Its normal
to have some odor, but it should not smell
burnt.
• Level of fluid is checked only with car hot,
on level ground
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Note on oils
• Mineral Characteristics $2 / quart
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Basic protection for a variety of engines
Not much protection for cold weather start ups
Fully Synthetic Characteristics $6 / quart
Fuel economy savings
Enhances engine performance and power
Ensures engine is protected from wear and deposits
Ensures good cold starting and warm up
Gets to moving parts of the engine quickly
Semi-synthetic Characteristics $4 / quart
Cold start lubrication protection similar to full synthetic
Roughly three times better at reducing engine wear over
conventional oils
Increased oil change intervals
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Cut away view of an engine
• Engine oil is pumped
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during operation onto
various engine parts
Question: How long
does it take to pump the
oil from the oil pan up
into the engine?
Question: How long until
the engine reaches its
optimum efficiency?
What are the advantages of having
the car inspected professionally?
• Pro inspections cost $50 - $80 but give
you something to negotiate with
• Pro inspections are VERY thorough
• Most are limited to mechanical inspections
and do not evaluate the body for damage
and repair
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A word about Salvage Titles
• Salvage / Prior Salvage stamp vehicles
should be cheaper than comparable model
by maybe 20%; depends on damage
• Don’t rule out a vehicle with prior salvage
stamped on title, they can save you $$
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More on Salvage Titles
• Some vehicles that have sustained heavy
damage have “clean” titles
• Some titles are stamped “Prior Salvage”
for some rather minor previous damage
• For this reason, shop carefully!
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What about safety?
• http://www.safercar.gov/
But keep in mind when the Government
issues a star rating, it is assuming vehicle
crashes with the same size car it is rating.
Google on www.youtube.com to find crash
video of vehicles you are curious about
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One More Thing
• If you suspect the owner of the vehicle
drove it hard, ask him to take you for a
ride / see how he treats the car or…
• Ask him about the use of the vehicle.
Most Americans can handle direct
questions like “Do you drive aggressively?”
if you ask with a smile on your face 
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Negotiating a Sale
• You MAY try to get a lower price on the phone,
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but the Seller may hang up on you! Asking price
is not usually more than 10-15% higher than
seller’s anticipated selling price unless it has
been advertised for longer than expected.
Be careful not to point out things wrong with the
car as though the seller was trying to cheat you!
Don’t be manipulated or pressured to buy. But
at the same time, don’t ignore the advice of
someone trying to help!
Dealing With Details
• What is the procedure for payment?
• Where do we go to transfer the Title?
• What legal issues do I face?
• How much insurance do I need?
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What is the procedure for
payment?
• Most sellers accept a personal check as down
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payment. If you do not follow through with
the sale, the money is theirs to keep.
Buyer will return at a later time with Bank
Check for the full amount and Seller returns
the Buyer’s down payment.
Writing out an agreement may be a good
idea.
Payment Procedure continued…
• Alternatively, Buyer and Seller can go
together to the bank to exchange
funds
• Buyer can carry a check from a bank
that he could sign over to whomever
he wishes
Where do we go to transfer the
Title of Ownership?
• Its primarily in the Seller’s interests to go
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with the Buyer to insure the Title is properly
transferred.
The Dept. of Motor Vehicle in Minnesota has
several locations for transferring the Title of
Ownership – they can be found in the
Government Blue Pages in the front of the
phone book
Going together and doing all the signatures
in front of the DMV personnel can save you
a lot of stress should you make a mistake
Title includes:
• Odometer readings
when issued
• If the car has a “Lien”
• VIN number
• Owner(s) name/address, etc.
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Be careful filling out the title as any
alterations/changes VOID the title!
• Put your name down in USA order (family
name LAST)
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• If you can, fill out the title in the presence of a
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DMV official
If your are not able to go together to register,
register online www.mndriveinfo.org (this does
NOT transfer the title but starts the process)
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Recommendations
• Getting Insurance
• Recommended Cars
• Finding a Reputable Mechanic
• Auto Body Repair
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Insurance
• It is illegal to drive a car on a MN highway
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without insurance. You need insurance to
pick up the car you buy…and you need the
VIN# to insure it.
The liability insurance MN requires is
probably not enough! Consider raising it, at
least until you are a seasoned driver.
You, as driver of your car, are alone
responsible for whatever you hit, regardless
of “fault” and unless you carry collision
coverage, the loss is yours.
Choosing Insurance
Because International Students are the riskiest group to
insure and because they have the highest accident rate
due to their unfamiliarity with cars…
• Few companies insure unlicensed drivers
• Those that do offer insurance to this group
charge big bucks!
• When you do find insurance, consider collision
coverage in addition to liability
Understanding the types of
Insurance
• Liability only covers damage you do to
other people’s cars and property
• Collision adds coverage for damage you
do to your own car
• Comprehensive covers damage such as
storms, parking lot scrapes, etc.
Recommendations
• The following cars are good choices but
not your only choices!
• If you are choosing to buy a cheaper car,
($1000 - $2500) your choices are
narrower and will depend more on the
condition of the car than the make and
model…but keep the following in mind~
7/7/2015
Brand Specific Recommendations
• Practically any Toyota- These cars accept abuse and
neglect much better than most cars
• Honda Accord, Civic, etc.- Not Passport
• Mazdas OK- They probably don’t last as long as
Toyotas but usually good cars
• Nissan- Good, simple cars but not in league with
Honda and Toyota
Recommendations continued…
• Mitsubishi, Suzuki- Only if you get a good price
and low miles
• Hyundai In recent years these cars have made
big strides ahead in quality
• Subaru- Expensive repairs beyond the 100,000
mile mark
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High mileage late model “off
lease” cars
• Often 30% of original
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MSRP even though
only 3 or 4 years old
Rigorous maintenance
has been performed
Body and interior look
almost new!
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• Many components
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that wear out at a
given mileage are like
new- but you still get
the depreciation of an
older car
Conclusion: these
cars are some of the
best values around
regardless of brand
name
Cars / things to avoid
• Late 90’s Mazda 626 AT
• Late 90’s Mitsubishi Galant AT
• GM 2.4 liter 4 cylinder
• Saturn ION
7/7/2015
Cars to Avoid
• Subaru 2.5 liter Phase II motor 1996-2003
~Head gaskets blow, dealer repair $2500 $3500
~No permanent repair of this engine is
possible, reoccurs
7/7/2015
Cars to be careful of
• Honda Odyssey 2000 -2003
~Faulty transmissions; some were replaced
under warranty but owners often have to
pay for repairs up to $5000 to replace
~Some owners report repairing transmission
twice
~If you find one with a new transmission it
SHOULD be OK
7/7/2015
Issues to be aware of / Honda
• Transmissions- Hondas don’t accept
abuse; its wise to see how the owner
treated his car before you buy it
• Timing Belt Replacement
~On Hondas, replacement intervals are 90 –
105k Dealer cost about $1000 on 4 cyl.
~If the belt breaks, it can ruin the engine
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Issues to be aware of / Ford
• Ford Focus has had a record number of
recalls on the Ford Focus 2000-2002
~Make sure ALL recalls on the vehicle have
been taken care of
~These cars tend to wear out
quickly…maintenance intensive; inspect
carefully
7/7/2015
Issues to be aware of / Ford
• Taurus / Windstar/Freestar history
~Engineering mistakes 20 years ago still
affects resale value; good cars for the $$
~3.0 V6 is very good
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Specific Cars to look for…
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Toyota Camry
• These cars can last 250,000+ miles
• Galvanized sheet metal on older ones
• Great resale value
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Chevrolet Prizm/Toyota Corolla
• Prizm is the Corolla with Chevy name
• Economical…should last 200,000 miles
• Not much to worry about here
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Honda Accord
• Quick, responsive handling
• Very reliable, satisfying ownership
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Honda Civic
• Very economical transportation
• Very, very reliable!
• Highest resale value
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Mazda 3, Protege
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Saturn
• SL pretty good
• ION “not so much”
• SW average
• L Series “not so much”
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Hyundai
• Most are average
• Later models are improved greatly
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Scion
• Xb gets rave reviews on
www.carsurvey.org
• Xa good
• Xc more mixed reviews
7/7/2015
Less Obvious Recommendations…
Cars you might have overlooked 
7/7/2015
Pontiac Vibe
• Same car as a Toyota Matrix
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Ford Escort / Mercury Tracer
• Cheap, dependable transportation
• EASY to find competent mechanic to work
on these cars
• Available 2 door, 4 door, wagon
• Lower purchase and resale value than
import
7/7/2015
Buick Regal
• Dependability on a par with import cars
• 3.8 liter motor is one of the best in
automotive history
• Depreciates rapidly
making it affordable
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Chevrolet Prizm
• Same as a Toyota Corolla
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Ford Taurus
• LOW resale value means you can get a
newer car for less money than you
thought
• 3.0 liter engine is quite good
• Have a mechanic look over the car
before you buy
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Chevrolet Impala
• Big, Safe,
Utilitarian
• Dealership
ONLY for
necessary
items
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Other things to think about
• Remember that finding a car “One Owner’
or from a person whose judgment you
trust is your best asset in looking for a car
• Almost any car in excellent condition is
going to be a better choice than a more
reputable car that has been abused
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Finding a Mechanic
• New car dealerships may have the latest
diagnostic equipment and lots of “welltrained” mechanics, BUT that doesn’t
guarantee they are good at fixing cars!
• Mechanics without a franchise
endorsement can only remain in operation
if they do good work!
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Mechanics
• Auto Repair Service 965 Pierce Butler Route, St
•
•
•
Paul 651-487-1431 Not far from CTC
Campus Auto Repair 630 Washington Ave Se
(612) 378-0794
Phalen Park Auto Repair (Kuan’s) 1383 Arcade
St. St. Paul, MN 55106 651-771-1590
Midwest Vee 259 Como Avenue Saint Paul,
Minnesota 55103 651 489-8853 (specialists for
European cars)
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Auto Body Repair
• Raymond Auto Body, Inc. 1075 Pierce
Butler Route St. Paul, MN 55104 651
488-0588
~This recommendation is based on
responses sent in to Twin City Checkbook
Magazine
7/7/2015
Sales, Auto Body, and Mechanic
Repair
• Ascend Auto
99 Hyacinth Ave St Paul 55117
651-340-8635
Hmong family business (Christians and very
nice people). Cars are bought salvage
and repaired and sold.
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Other Issues to Consider
• The Law is the LAW – do not bring a
casual attitude to the rules of the road;
you must always have a licensed driver
sitting next to you when on a learner’s
permit. And all the rules apply to you
even when nobody else is watching. 
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Other issues…the Impound Lot
• If you don’t know the parking rules of the
city, beware!
• Fees: $172+ (Mpls) $208+ (St Paul) for
tickets and towing PLUS any storage fees
• http://www.minneapolismn.gov/snow/sno
w_parking-info for rules in MPLS.
• http://www.stpaul.gov/index.aspx?NID=4
258 for St Paul rules
Snow Emergency Rules
• MPLS has 3 days of changing rules…thus 3
chances for you to get towed!
• St Paul’s snow emergencies are 4 days
• Rules are complicated so study them- until
the streets are plowed to the curb, you
will not be assured of finding your car
when you come back
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Other Issues…your owner’s manual
• Read it!
• You might also want to find a general
book on cars to get you started
• (I knew a student who put too much air in
his tires…they blew up on the highway
going to Duluth. This wouldn’t have
happened if he would have read the
owner’s manual!)
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I hope this presentation
was helpful
• Your greatest resource in finding a good
car is the recommendations of friends and
classmates who have some experience
with cars
• If you have an American host family, you
can ask them as well
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Good Luck Shopping!
(I think this Lamborghini costs more than your education!)
7/7/2015