7.2 Stitching double fabrics

Introduction:

 Two layers of the double cloth are always stitched together to produce a principal features, and the stitching of the back and face fabrics can be effected in the following five ways: 1) back cloth stitched to face cloth 2) face cloth stitched to back cloth 3) double stitching 4) center warp stitching 5) center weft stitching

1. Method

Ⅰ stitching from back to face( warp stitching) Means raising the back ends over the face picks

Example 1:

construct a stitching double weave.

Face weave: 2/2 Z twill Back weave: 2/2 Z twill Arrangement m : n = 1 : 1 Solution : 1) Draw the face and back weaves, see Fig (A): Face Back Fig. (A)

2) Draw the stitching double weave  Considering the appearance of the fabric , these stitches should be covered by face end floats. the stitching is arranged as the following fig. (B). Fig (B)

3) The weaving plan of the stitched double weave, see Fig (C).

Usually, divided draft is employed.

cross-section Fig (C)

Back end and face pick intersection

2. Method

Ⅱ stitching from face to back (weft stitching) Means face ends are lowered below back picks.

Example 2:

construct a stitching double weave.

 Face weave: 2/2 Z twill; Back weave: 2/2 Z twill; Arrangement m: n=1: 1.

1) Draw the face and back weaves, see Fig (A):

2) Draw the stitching double weave, see Fig (B).

Where: ○ : Stitching points Fig (B)

3) The weaving plan of the stitched double weave.

See Fig (C): Cross-section Fig (C)

Face end and back pick intersection

3. Method

Ⅲ Double stitching (warp & weft stitching) Face cloth stitched to back cloth and back cloth stitched to face cloth.

Example 3:

Construct a double stitching weave: Face weave: 2/2 Z twill; Back weave: 2/2 Z twill; Arrangement m : n=1 : 1.

1) Draw the face and back weaves, see Fig (A): 2) Draw the double stitching weave, see Fig (B): Fig (A) Fig (B)

3) The weaving plan of the stitched double weave, see Fig (C): Cross-section Fig (C)

Back end and face pick intersection Face end and back pick intersection

Method

Ⅳ

Center warp stitching

Face and back cloths are stitched with a centre warp. If the colours or counts of the yarns for the face and back differ greatly fine center threads can be used for stitching.

Example 5:

Face weave:2/2 Z twill Back weave:2/2 Z twill Arrangement: m : n= 1 : 1

1) Draw the face and back weaves. See Fig. (A) 2) Draw the center warp stitching threads 4,9. See Fig. (B) Fig. (B) Fig. (A)

Cross-section 3) The weaving plan of center warp stitching. See Fig. (C): Fig. (C)

Center warp

Method

Ⅴ

center weft stitching

Face and back cloths are stitched with a center weft

Example 6:

Face weave 5 ends sateen Back weave 5 ends satin Arrangement: Warp m : n = 1 : 1 ; Face pick : back pick: center pick : back pick :Face pick = 1:1:1:1:1;

Center weft

Home works:

Construct the following stitching weaves:

 1. A coating cloth, face weave 2/2 ↗ , back weave1/1 plain, arrangement m : n=2 : 1, stitching in plain order. (use method I)   2. A coating cloth, face weave 2/2 ↗ , back weave 2/2 ↗ , arrangement m : n in warp way 1 : 1, in weft way 2 : 2, stitching in 1/3 twill order (use method I) 3. face weave 2/2 hopsack ,back weave 2/2 ↗ , arrangement m : n=1 : 1 ,stitching in 1/3 twill order (use method Ⅱ) and draw the draft and lifting plan.