Neo-classicism to Industrial Revolution

1793 “Terror” Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette Executed, Directoire established

1790-1820 NeoClassicism/Directoire

    Departures from typical fashion evolution…  Women-waistlines rise, slender silhouette  Men-waistline rises, wide lapels (Incroyable, frock) Changing male ideals-plain, dark, unadorned, suits Tailoring important  1818, tape measure/Brooks Bros .

Beau Brummel, male fashion icon, minimalist style  sideburns-first fashionable facial hair in over century

1840-1860 Industrial Revolution

 Men  Cutaway becomes tailcoat, only evening  Sack coat (closest to modern)  Decorative waistcoat disappearing  Stripes, checks, patterns; some dandies accessorize   Power weaving, cylinder printing-cheaper fabrics By 1860, fashion journalism global…

1815-1848 Romantic (1790-1840 women)

   Neoclassical-beginning of consistent historic revival (Pompeii, classical Greek)  “Stays” reduced temporarily, patterned cottons day, dark/heavy evening 1820s, back to natural waist, volume increases, X silhouette, horizontal emphasis  Corsets, cutting, shaping, applied decoration 1830s wide off-shoulder, printed fabrics, bum rolls, petticoats

1840-1860 Industrial Revol women

 Sleeve volume reduced, Vertical emphasis V waist, bell/pagoda sleeve  More exotics imitated, Kashmir shawls  Voluminous skirt “crinoline,” horsehair  Technology-cage crinoline, fabric over steel  REFORM dress; health, rights (Bloomer)

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Ready-Made Clothing (still 1840-1860)

Slops/soldiers (since 1660s)-1st RTW Industrialization/banking  office clerks, not bespoke, consistent business dress (telegraph, typewriter) 1839 Daguerre, photography, truthful visual 1840s London-Savile Row tailoring (Poole, military tailor) 1846 Howe, sewing machine (5+yrs Singer) 1850s, wood pulp paper, printing 1856, first synthetic dye (1860s common) 1857 Charles Frederick WORTH, Empress Eugenie, birth of haute couture

Victorian/Edwardian 1860-1910

   1837-1901 Queen Victoria/1901-1911 Edward Visual info, mass production, dept stores, mail order… MEN, standard sizing (Civil War data), menswear suited to mass production     Detachable collar/cuffs, necktie, straight silhouette 3 pc. sack suit, “tuxedo park” tuxedo/evening Hats-bowler/derby, fedora, boater; fewer beards Sports important-Norfolk jacket; bathing costume

Late Victorian 1860-1900

    Women-rapid change, difficult to mass produce    Sewing girls Home sewing machine masses of décor Imports-plaids/tartans, paisley, Zouave jkts Corset-hourglass; drawers to ankles/chemise Day-modest, evening-low neck/short slv, extended/wide shoulder-line, wide elliptical hoops/cages Fair complexion-parasols, gloves, fans

contd.

 Worth-merchandising/showroom/dictated  1868 Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne-regulated/business  1870 BUSTLE, longer corset/bodice (not round hoop, back emphasis)  Princess line (Princess Metternich, Worth client)-vert seams, no waistline

1880s-developments

 Emmigration garment manufacturing…  Sweating-long hrs, poor conditions  1900 ILGWU (triangle shirtwaist factory-labor laws/unions)  Dept. stores (Bon marche)-leisure activity  Patterns printed in Harper’s

Movements

     Aesthetic dress  vege dyes, Oscar Wilde, Liberty London Rational dress, health movement (loose) Gay Nineties-la Belle Epoque  Lessening morality from Victorian 1899 Veblen “Theory of Leisure Class” Women in wkforce   Telephone, typewriter, nursing 2pc. Suit, shirtwaist blouse

1880s-1890s women’s fashion

 1885 shelf-like projection of skirts  Dolman cape, Ulster coat (half-belt)  BLACK hide dirt, adapt for mourning  Victoria 1861-1901  Actresses-fashion leaders (photography)  1895 leg-o-mutton sleeve, trumpet skirt

Art Nouveau/Edwardian 1900-1910

      Cycling-trousers for women Art Nouveau-curvilinear  S-curve silhouette 1900-1908  Paris exhibition (couturiers) Monobosom, hip thrust, bishop/leg-o-mutton, softer/light Gibson Girl  Pompadours, wide hats, plumage (Audubon society) Paul Poiret-freed women  1 st modern couturier, 1909 empire waist Automobiles-duster/motorcoat (and shorter styles)

1910 Corsets

http://laracorsets.com/History_of_the_corset_11_1910-1920.htm