Transcript Ice Axe Parts - Cascade Adventures

Introduction
prepared by Steve Dougherty
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Scope of Ice School
An Introduction to Ice Axe and Crampon Techniques
Prusik out of a crevasse.
Use two ice tools to do a climb out of a crevasse with
a top-roped belay.
prepared by Steve Dougherty
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Recommended Reading
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Lower Eliot Glacier
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Middle Eliot Glacier
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Upper Eliot Glacier
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Ice Axe
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Evolution of the Ice Axe
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Evolution of the Ice Axe
prepared by Steve Dougherty
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Evolution of the Ice Axe
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Ice Axe Parts
Pick
Adze
Shaft
Spike
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Ice Axe Length
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How to Carry an Ice Axe
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Ice Axe Grasps
a. Self-Arrest
b. Self-Belay
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Self-Belay
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Crampons
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Evolution of Crampons
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Purchasing Crampons
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Crampon Maintenance
File Points … grinding can cause excessive heat.
No need for excessive sharpness
Correct any splay in points.
prepared by Steve Dougherty
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When to Use Crampons
Do use crampons on frozen snow and ice.
Don’t use crampons in soft snow.
Crampon effectiveness is diminished
when snow accumulates between points.
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Crampon Technique
French Technique – Flat-Footing
German Technique – Front-Pointing.
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Pied Marche
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Pied En Canard
Pied Marche
Pied En Canard
Pied A Plat
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Pied A Plat
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Pied Assis
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Pied Troisieme
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Very Low Angle
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Low Angle
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Moderate to High Angle
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High Angle
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Very High Angle
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Ice Axe Technique
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Piolet Canne
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Piolet Manche
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Piolet Ramasse
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Piolet Ancre
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Piolet Panne
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Piolet Poignard
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Piolet Traction
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Piolet Rampe
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Piolet Rampe
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Low Angle
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Moderate Angle
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High Angle
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Low Angle
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Moderate Angle
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Moderate Angle
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High Angle
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Very High Angle
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Combining
Techniques
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Combining Techniques
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Crevasse Self-Rescue
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Field Session Content
Morning – Practice Ice Axe and
Crampon Techniques.
Lunch
Afternoon – Prusik out of crevasse;
Climb out of crevasse with two ice
tools.
prepared by Steve Dougherty
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Climbing Equipment
sturdy crampon compatible boots
crampons
ice axe
climbing harness
locking carabiner
extra carabiner
prusik slings (5' and 9' of 6mm Perlon)
helmet
belay/rappel device
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Sat. Logistics/Schedule
4:45 AM - Meet at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride 1100 Airport Rd.
5:00 AM - Depart the State Motor Pool Park & Ride
8:00 AM - Arrive at Cloud Cap Saddle Campground
8:30 AM - Hike to practice area on Eliot Glacier (2 miles and 1100’)
10:30 AM - Arrive at practice area on the Eliot Glacier.
11:00 AM - Glacier Walk - Practice Crampon & Ice Axe Techniques
12:00 PM - Lunch
12:30 PM - Crevasse Self Rescue
2:00 PM - Use two ice axes to climb out of a crevasse on a top rope.
3:30 PM - Hike to Cloud Cap Saddle Campground
5:00 PM - Arrive at Cloud Cap Saddle Campground
6:00 PM – Group Dinner
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Sun. Logistics/Schedule
6:45 AM – Group breakfast
7:30 AM - Hike to practice area on Eliot Glacier
9:30 AM - Arrive at practice area on the Eliot Glacier.
10:00 AM - Glacier Walk - Practice Crampon & Ice Axe Techniques
11:00 AM - Lunch
11:30 AM - Crevasse Self Rescue
1:00 PM - Use two ice axes to climb out of a crevasse on a top rope.
2:30 PM - Hike to Cloud Cap Saddle Campground
4:00 PM - Arrive at Cloud Cap Saddle Campground
4:30 PM - Drive to Salem.
7:30 PM - Arrive at State Motor Pool Park & Ride on Airport Rd.
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The End
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