Transcript TT 232 N TEXTILE PRINTING 3-0-3

TT 232 N TEXTILE PRINTING
3-0-3
R.B.CHAVAN
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY
INDIAN INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY
HAUZ-KHAS, NEW DELHI
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INTRODUCTION
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN DYEING AND PRINTING
DYEING
• UNIFORM COLOURATION ALONG LENGTH AND
WIDTH OF FABRIC
• USUALLY SINGLE COLOUR IS POSSIBLE.
• NO DIFFERENCE IN COLOUR BETWEEN FRONT
AND BACK SIDE OF FABRIC
• AQUEOUS DYEING MEDIUM OF LOW VISCOSITY
• DYEING IN BATCHWISE, CONTINUOUS OR SEMICONTINUOUS METHOD.
• FABRIC DYEING IN OPEN WIDTH OR ROPE FORM.
• DYEING IN FIBRE, YARN, FABRIC, GARMENT FORM
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PRINTING
• LOCALLIZED DYEING
• COLOUR IS APPLIED LOCALLY IN THE FORM
OF DESIGN/PATTERN
• LOW VISCOSITY MEDIUM WOULD SPREAD THE
COLOUR BY CAPILLARY ACTION, DOES NOT
MAINTAIN THE SHARPNESS OF THE DESIGN.
• AQUEOUS MEDIUM OF HIGH VISCOSITY,
PREVENT THE COLOUR SPREADING.
• FABRIC PRINTING IN OPEN WIDTH FORM ONLY
• FABRIC PRINTING IS MOST COMMON
COMPARED TO YARN AND GARMENT
PRINTING, EXCEPTION T-SHIRT PRINTING
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PRINT LIKE EFFECTS
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PRINTING
WEAVING USING COLOURED YARN
KNITTING USING COLOURED YARN
APPLIQUE OR PATCH WORK
EMBROIDERY
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PRINTING STUDY
STYLES OF PRINTING
DIRECT STYLE
• PRINTING OF SINGLE OR MULTICOLOURS ON
WHITE OR PALE SHADE DYED FABRIC
RESIST STYLE
• PREVENTION OF COLOUR FIXATION AT THE
PRINTED PORTION
• WHITE RESIST: WHITE PRINT AGAINST COLOURED
BACKGROUND
• COLOUR RESIST: COLOUR PRINT AGAINST
COLOURE BACKGROUND
DISCHARGE STYLE
• DESTRUCTION OF COLOUR AT THE PRINTED
PORTION
• WHITE DISCHARGE
• COLOUR DISCHARGE
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METHODS OF PRINTING
• BLOCK PRINTING
• STENCIL PRINTING
• ROLLER PRINTING
• SCREEN PRINTING
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MANUAL SCREEN PRINTING
AUTOMATIC FLAT BED SCREEN PRINTING
ROTORY SCREEN PRINTING
TRANSFER PRINTING
XEROX PRINTING
INKJET/DIGITAL PRINTING
PRINT LIKE EFFECT
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BLOCK PRINTING
• OLDEST METHOD
• INDIAN ORIGIN
• STILL PRACTICED IN INDIA
REQUIREMENTS
• WOODEN PRINTING BLOCKS
• COLOUR FURNISHING TRAY
• PRINTING TABLE
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PRINTING BLOCK
• MADE OF GOOD QUALITY WOOD
• THICKNESS 3-4 INCHES (7-10 CM)
• MAXIMUM SIZE 12x12 INCHES (30x30 CM)
• DESIGN ON BLOCK IN RELIEF
• BLOCK MAKING : MANUAL, SKILLED
BLOCK MAKERS
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BLOCK MAKING
• DESIGN TRACING ON PLAIN BLOCK
SURFACE
• MANUAL CARVING OF NON DESIGN
PORTIONS
• DEPTH DEPENDS ON NATURE OF DESIGN
• METAL WIRE INLAY FOR VERY FINE
OUTLINES
• SEPARATE BLOCK FOR EACH COLOUR IN
THE DESIGN
• OLD TRADITIONAL METHOD STILL
FOLLOWED
• NO NEW TECHNOLOGICAL INPUTS
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PRINTING TABLE
• WOODEN TABLE
• HEIGHT: 75-100 CM
• WIDTH: LARGER THAN THE WIDTH OF THE FABRIC
TO BE PRINTED
• LENGTH: DEPENDS ON THE SPACE AVAILABLE. 10
METRES QUITE COMMON
CUSHIONING
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RIGID WOODEN SURFACE NOT SUITABLE
RESILIENT SURFACE OBTAINED BY LAYERS OF
FABRIC TO BE PRINTED
COTTON GREY FABRIC
4-6 LAYERS OF JUTE FABRIC
WOODEN TABLE TOP
ALL FABRIC LAYERS ARE FIXED IN STRETCHED
CONDITION
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COLOUR FURNISHING TRAY
• WOODEN TRAY
• 2-3 LAYERS OF JUTE FABRIC
OR
• SINGLE LAYER OF THICK ABSORBENT
POLY URETHANE FOAM
• FINE COTTON FABRIC
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BLOCK PRINTING METHOD
• FIXATION OF FABRIC TO BE PRINTED ON
CUSHIONED TABLE
• SATURATION OF DESIGN BLOCK WITH
PRINTING PASTE
• TRANSFER OF DESIGN ON TO FABRIC BY
SKILLED BLOCK PRINTER
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ADVANTAGES AND LIMITATIONS
ADVANTAGES
• SIMPLE METHOD
• LOW INVESTMENT
LIMITATIONS
• LOW PRODUCTION
• INTRICATE DESIGNS NOT POSSIBLE
• BLOCK MAKING AND BLOCK PRINTING
SKILLED JOB
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REFERENCE
PRINCIPLE OF COTTON PRINTING
D.G.KALE
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SPRAY PRINTING
• OLD TECHNIQUE ORIGINATED IN JAPAN
• USED FOR PRINTING OF SILK SCARFS
PRINCIPLE
• SPRAY OF COLOUR ONTO FABRIC THROUGH
STENCIL
• STENCIL: THIN METAL PLATE, PLASTIC
SHEET, PAPER
• DESIGN CUT IN THE FORM OF STENCIL
• METHOD AS IN FIG.
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MERITS & DEMERITS
MERITS
• MULTICOLOUR EFFECT POSSIBLE
THROUGH SINGLE STENCIL
• TONAL EFFECTS ACCORDING TO SPRAY
DENSITY
• SPECKLED (DOT) EFFECT
• UNIQUE DESIGNS
DEMERITS
• INTRICATE DESIGNS NOT POSSIBLE
• DESIGN LIMITATIONS DUE TO PROBLEMS
OF STENCIL CUTTING
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