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by The Textile Institute UK, Society of Dyers and Colourists Pakistan
and University of Management and Technology Pakistan
Improved reactive dye fixation
in pad-steam dyeing of cotton
using a biodegradable organic salt
Awais Khatri CText ATI LSDC
BE Textile Engineering (MUET Pakistan)
Diploma in Coloration (SDC UK)
PhD Textiles (RMIT Australia)
Department of Textile Engineering
Mehran University of Engineering and Technology
Jamshoro – 76062 Sindh Pakistan
by The Textile Institute UK, Society of Dyers and Colourists Pakistan
and University of Management and Technology Pakistan
‘Reactive dyes – cotton’
a predominant dye-fibre combination
• Natural comfort and performance of cotton fibre
• Covalent bond that is formed between the fibre polymer and
the dye molecules
- leads to excellent colourfastness to washing
• An exceptionally wide gamut of brilliant colours possible in all hues
• Versatility of the dyes for different application methods
by The Textile Institute UK, Society of Dyers and Colourists Pakistan
and University of Management and Technology Pakistan
Environmental Issues
High levels of dissolved solids and oxygen demand in the
effluent because of
• unfixed dye
- Hydrolysed dye
- Unreacted dye
Washing-off to remove unfixed dye
Typical dye fixation efficiency is 50 – 80%
• use of nonbiodegradable inorganic chemicals
- Electrolyte
- Alkali
- Urea (printing and pad dyeings)
by The Textile Institute UK, Society of Dyers and Colourists Pakistan
and University of Management and Technology Pakistan
‘Polluted effluent’
Developments to reduce effluent pollution
• Developments in reactive dye structures
• Development in dyeing processes and machinery
• Chemical modification of cotton fibre prior to dyeing
• Use of organic compounds in place of inorganic chemicals
by The Textile Institute UK, Society of Dyers and Colourists Pakistan
and University of Management and Technology Pakistan
Biodegradable alkaline organic salts
Use of tetrasodium ethylene diamine tetraacetate in exhaust dyeing
(Ahmed, 2005)
Use of trisodium nitrilo triacetate in continuous pad-steam dyeing
(Khatri et al, 2010)
This work…
Use of tetrasodium N,N-bis(carboxylatomethyl)-L-glutamate
(tetrasodium GLDA) in pad-steam dyeing
by The Textile Institute UK, Society of Dyers and Colourists Pakistan
and University of Management and Technology Pakistan
Pad-steam dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes
• Padding (dye, salt and alkali)
- salt favours increased dye levelness in the fibre
- alkali activates dye-fibre reaction
• Steaming (saturated)
for 60 – 120 sec
• Washing-off
Lower fixation levels because of excessive dye hydrolysis!
by The Textile Institute UK, Society of Dyers and Colourists Pakistan
and University of Management and Technology Pakistan
Focus of the paper
Improvements in fixation efficiency of a bis(sulphatoethylsulphone)
dye by using the tetrasodium GLDA
by The Textile Institute UK, Society of Dyers and Colourists Pakistan
and University of Management and Technology Pakistan
Material and methods
Material
Mill scoured and bleached cotton woven fabric (282 g/m2)
CI Reactive Blue 250, a bis(sulphatoethylsulphone) dye
The Felosan RGN-S, a non-ionic detergent, for washing-off
Analytical grade sodium chloride, sodium carbonate and tetrasodium GLDA
Dyeing
Padding: 70% liquor pick-up, 20 g/l dye and the relevant sodium chloride and sodium carbonate or
tetrasodium GLDA
Steaming: wet-temperature of 101 – 102oC, 100% moisture, for 60, 90 and 120 sec
Washing-off: Rinsing with cold then hot water; soaping with 2 g/l Felosan RGN-S at the boil for 15
min; Rinsing with hot water until bleeding stopped; Rinsing with cold water and oven drying
Measurements
Final colour yield (K/S) = Colour strength after washing-off
The percentage of reactive dye fixed on the fabric, %F = [(K/S) / (K/Sbefore washing)] x 100
Colourfastness to rubbing (ISO 105 - X12), washing (ISO 105 - C02) and light (BS 1006: 1990 UKTN)
by The Textile Institute UK, Society of Dyers and Colourists Pakistan
and University of Management and Technology Pakistan
Optimum inorganic salt and alkali
20 g/l CI Reactive Blue 250 at 60 sec steaming
12
80
10
70
60
8
50
K/S 6
%F 40
4
30
20
2
10
0
0
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
5
Sodium chloride, g/l
Effect of sodium chloride concentration on
colour yield at constant sodium carbonate (15 g/l)
10
15
20
Sodium carbonate
25
Effect of sodium carbonate concentration on dye
fixation at constant sodium chloride (50 g/l)
by The Textile Institute UK, Society of Dyers and Colourists Pakistan
and University of Management and Technology Pakistan
Effect of tetrasodium GLDA concentration
18
16
14
12
10
K/S
8
6
4
2
0
96
92
88
%F 84
80
76
72
50
75
100
Tetrasodium GLDA, g/l
125
50
75
100
125
Tetrasodium GLDA, g/l
Effect of tetrasodium GLDA concentration on colour fixation and yield of 20 g/l CI Reactive Blue 250
at 60 sec steaming
by The Textile Institute UK, Society of Dyers and Colourists Pakistan
and University of Management and Technology Pakistan
Tetrasodium GLDA dyeing versus traditional dyeing
Comparative effect of steaming time, colour yield and dye fixation
Inorganic chemicals (50 g/l sodium chloride and
15 g/l sodium carbonate)
Tetrasodium GLDA (100 g/l)
16
14
12
10
K/S 8
6
4
2
0
60
90
Steaming time, sec
120
100
90
80
70
60
%F 50
40
30
20
10
0
60
90
120
Steaming time, sec
Effect of steaming time on colour yield and dye fixation of
20 g/l CI Reactive Blue 250 (20 g/l) at constant tetrasodium GLDA and inorganic chemicals concentrations
by The Textile Institute UK, Society of Dyers and Colourists Pakistan
and University of Management and Technology Pakistan
Tetrasodium GLDA dyeing versus traditional dyeing
Comparative colourfastness
Rubbing
fastness
Washing fastness
Dry Wet
Change
in
colour
Blue
Staining
wool
on white*
reference
10.42
4-5
4
4-5
4-5
3-4
Tetrasodium GLDA (40 g/l) 10.82
4-5
4
4-5
4-5
3-4
Pad-steam dyeings
Traditional
50 g/l sodium chloride
15 g/l sodium carbonate
*
Colour
yield (K/S)
Secondary cellulose acetate, cotton, polyacrylonitrile, polyester, polyamide and wool
by The Textile Institute UK, Society of Dyers and Colourists Pakistan
and University of Management and Technology Pakistan
Light
fastness
Conclusions
• The tetrasodium GLDA, a biodegradable organic salt, can effectively be
used for pad-steam dyeing of cotton with reactive dyes to replace
inorganic salt and alkali, thus to reduce effluent load.
• A significant increase in dye fixation and colour yield of a
bis(sulphatoethylsulphone) dye was obtained using tetrasodium GLDA.
• The improved dye fixation and ultimate colour yield results are worthy
of further investigations.
by The Textile Institute UK, Society of Dyers and Colourists Pakistan
and University of Management and Technology Pakistan
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by The Textile Institute UK, Society of Dyers and Colourists Pakistan
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by The Textile Institute UK, Society of Dyers and Colourists Pakistan
and University of Management and Technology Pakistan
Thank you …
by The Textile Institute UK, Society of Dyers and Colourists Pakistan
and University of Management and Technology Pakistan