Transcript milan fashion week - Milano Moda Donna
C a m e r a N a z i o n a l e d e l l a M o d a I t a l i a n a p r e s e n t s
MILAN FASHION WEEK
I N S I D E R ’ S G U I D E
F a l l / W i n t e r 2 0 1 7 / 2 0 1 8
L E T T E R F R O M T H E C H A I R M A N
Hello everyone and welcome back to Milan!
In the year just begun, we have already undertaken major initiatives to consolidate our work around our key focus areas: sustainability; young designers and new brands; digitalisation, and relationships with other institutions, both in Italy and abroad. Areas in which we have identified the key elements necessary to lead Italian fashion into the future.
The calendar for this season of Milano Moda Donna once again demonstrates our commitment to the promotion of young designers: the shows staged by Calcaterra, Daizy Shely, Lucio Vanotti and Ricostru are all supported by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana; a new edition of the Fashion Hub Market will bring together the collections of 15 designers from all around the world; our collaboration continues with Giorgio Armani, this time with his support to Xu Zhi, the young designer hosted at the Armani/Teatro ; while Angel Chen will be part of the Mercedes-Benz International Designer Exchange Program and Situationist will show its collections thanks to the collaboration between White Milano and CNMI.
Here are the other novelties of this edition: the use of the beautiful Cavallerizze venue in the National Museum of Science and Technology, with a room for fashion shows and two for presentations; the first shows uniting the men’s and women’s collections by Bottega Veneta and Gucci; the 40th anniversary of Anna Molinari; the first show by Francesco Risso at Marni, and many other appointments in a Milan brimming with fashion, culture and creativity, with many interesting moments both to see and to experience, as you may discover as you browse through these pages.
Lastly, let me point out the exhibition
Portraits
by Maurizio Galimberti, which will be open to the public throughout the Week at our Fashion Hub in Piazza Gae Aulenti. Have a good Fashion Week! Carlo Capasa
Franca
Editing and design
Boiler Corporation
Cover Illustration
Emiliano Ponzi
Transaltions
Bennett Bazalgette-Staples
Printing
Grafiche Antiga, Crocetta del Montello (TV)
Images and texts:
© respective authors and owners. No part of this volume may be reproduced without the prior written permission of CNMI. CNMI and Boiler Corporation would like to thank the press and communication offices of the institutions and companies featured in this publication for their kind collaboration. Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana Piazza Duomo 31, 20122 Milano - Italy
www.cameramoda.it
Instagram and Twitter
@cameramoda
Printed on paper produced exclusively using wood/cellulose from FSC-certified forests. Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certification ensures that the wood used comes from well managed forests ensuring environmental, social and economic benefits.
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I N D E X
HIGHLIGHTS
At Milano Moda Donna for the first time Blumarine celebrates 40 years Marni: Risso’s debut on the Womenswear New location for CNMI shows and presentations Gucci: the Men’s and Women’s collections to be presented together 8 The Next Talents Xu Zhi is the new Armani talent Bottega Veneta, single show Angel Chen and Vivetta Ponti: Mercedes-Benz International Designer Exchange Program
PORTRAITS FASHION HUB MARKET
8 9 9 9 10 12 6 6 7 7
EVENTI FASHION WEEK
i-D & The Blonde Salad: New Wave Milano Marie Claire, Timeless 30 years with Elle Jewels of the 20 th century
EVENTI CULTURALI
Give Me Yesterday The Art Of Shoes Boom 60!
Science and Art at Fondazione Prada Rubens and the birth of the Baroque 200 Photographs by Paolo Monti In the days of Sequins Keith Haring about Art
EATING AND DRINKING IN MILAN WELLNESS
19 20 20 21 22 22 23 23 25 36 17 17 18 18
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H I G H L I G H T S
AT M I L A N O M O D A D O N N A F O R T H E F I R S T T I M E
Among the 70 shows planned, at Milano Moda Donna a number of new brands will also be present for the first time. As well as the young designer hosted by Giorgio Armani in collaboration with CNMI, we shall also see the debut of Annakiki (22 February, 8.30 pm), Angel Chen (23 February, 5 pm) and Calcaterra (26 February, 8 pm) and Situationist (24 February, 8.30 pm), supported by White Milano and CNMI. The international scope of the MFW continues with the inclusion of Vionnet, on the event’s official calendar for the first time (24 February, 8 pm). There are also a great number of new names among the presentations. Further info may be found on the website
www.milanomodadonna.it
B L U M A R I N E C E L E B R AT E S 4 0 Y E A R S
Anna Molinari grew up in Carpi, and her parents were textile industrialists: she could not but have been influenced by such a context. And so in 1977 she debuted with her label Blumarine. A high-charged femininity, with a
femme
at times
fatale
, at other times
enfant
. She has created such cult objects such as the T-shirt with a logo in Swarovski crystals or the famous Blu V, the little cashmere cardigan with a mink neck. The anniversary will be celebrated with a book published by Rizzoli, to be presented on 24 February from 6.30 to 8 pm at the Rizzoli bookshop in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, and on Saturday 25 February at 12.30 pm with a show at number 12 via Passione.
www.blumarine.com
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M A R N I : R I S S O ’ S D E B U T O N T H E W O M E N S W E A R
After Consuelo Castiglioni left the creative directorship of the brand she founded 20 years ago for personal reasons, owned by OTB since 2013, the role was passed to Francesco Risso. After studying at the Polimoda in Florence, at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and at the Saint Martins in London, Mr Risso worked with Anna Molinari, Alessandro Dell’Acqua and Malo, before arriving in Prada in 2008. After opening with the men’s collection last January here in Milan, he will present his first women’s collection on Sunday 26 February at 10.30 am at number 42 Viale Umbria.
www.marni.com/it
N E W LO C AT I O N F O R C N M I S H OW S A N D P R E S E N TAT I O N S
A new location in Milano Moda Donna is the spazio Cavallerizze, part of the National Museum of Science and Technology. The space, recently refurbished by architect Luca Cipelletti, will host a fashion show room and two presentation halls. Comeforbreakfast, Marios, Piccione.Piccione, Ricostru, Lucio Vanotti and Vivetta are just some of the brands that will present their collections in this rediscovered jewel of Milan.
www.museoscienza.org/cavallerizze/
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G U C C I : T H E M E N ’ S A N D W O M E N ’ S C O L L E C T I O N S T O B E P R E S E N T E D T O G E T H E R
Marco Bizzarri, President and CEO of Gucci, has announced that the brand will unite its men’s and women’s shows starting from this Fashion Week, when the creative director Alessandro Michele will present a single collection on Wednesday 22 in the new venue in via Mecenate. Michele says: “I feel it to be quite natural to present the
Uomo
and
Donna
Collections together. It’s just how I see the world today,” testifying to how the gender theme is ever closer to the heart of the strategic choices in the world of fashion. What’s more, Gucci confirms that it will maintain its “see now, buy later” strategy in order to respect the needs of the creative and manufacturing processes of the sector.
www.gucci.it
T H E N E X T TA L E N T S
Palazzo Morando once again hosts ‘The Next Talents’: a scouting project backed by YOOX and Vogue Italia: on 22 February the historical
palazzo
will be transformed into an exclusive showroom for the chosen international designers, remaining open throughout Fashion Week. Presenting their own apparel collections, there will be Nicola Brognano and Carlo Volpi with the brand bearing their own names, the Ukrainian Marianna Senchyna, Daniele Giorgio the designer of PARDEN’s, the Cypriot-Greek duo Dimos Natar and Andreas Georgiou of Natargeorgiou; Giorgia Totaro will feature her own kidswear collection entitled “
La Bottega di Giorgia
”, while for accessories there will be the bags of Pugnetti Parma by Filippo Pugnetti, Soloviere shoes by the French-born Alexia Aubert, jewellery by the German Xenia Bous; the selection will be completed by a design brand: the Danish Troels Flensted. All the items on show for the SS 2017 season will be on sale on YOOX, including those created especially for the event by each of the brands involved. After the invite-only opening, from 23 to 26 February, the event open to the public will also offer special talks dedicated to protagonists from the world of fashion.
www.yoox.com / www.vogue.it
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X U Z H I I S T H E N E W A R M A N I TA L E N T
Since 2013, Giorgio Armani has promoted and supported new talents, letting them showcase their work at the Armani/Teatro. During this edition, Xu Zhi will be given this honour. Chinese, based in London, Zhi studied at Saint Martins and worked for J.W. Anderson and Craig Green prior to setting up his own brand. He aims to stand out in the luxury category thanks to his contemporary outlook on one hand and his use of fine craftsmanship on the other. The show, in collaboration with CNMI is set for Saturday 25 February at 10.30 am at 59 via Bergognone.
www.xuzhi.co.uk
B OT T E G A V E N E TA , S I N G L E S H O W
Bottega Veneta has also announced that from 2017, in February and September, during the Milano Moda Donna, it will present its collections with a single Men-Women show. This decision represents a natural evolution after the unified show in September 2016 celebrating the 15th anniversary of Tomas Maier as creative director, and the 50th anniversary of the Vicenza
maison
itself. The Bottega Veneta universe is built around both sexes, and so a single show is an organic move, entirely in keeping with the evolution of the brand.
www.bottegaveneta.it
A N G E L C H E N A N D V I V E T TA P O N T I : M E R C E D E S - B E N Z I N T E R N AT I O N A L D E S I G N E R E XC H A N G E P R O G R A M
As part of the International Designer Exchange Program, Mercedes-Benz presents Chinese designer Angel Chen as a special guest at Milan Fashion Week. The following month, Italian fashion designer Vivetta Ponti will show her collection at Mercedes-Benz China Fashion Week. Vivetta was chosen from a shortlist of five Italian designers and Angel Chen, from a shortlist of six Chinese designers, by a panel of judges including Xiao Xue, Freda Wang, Carlo Capasa, Giusi Ferré, and Karla Otto. Angel Chen’s Milan debut will take place on Thursday, February 23rd at 5 p.m at the Scalone Arengario at Palazzo Reale.
www.mercedes-benz.com
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P O R T R A I T S
The UniCredit Pavilion will host a retrospective of the photographer Maurizio Galimberti. During the weekend, a series of
Lectio Magistralis
will be held in the VIP Lounge area, aimed at fans and students of fashion, design, art and photography schools. Here are the dates of the lectures, which will be moderated by Mariateresa Cerretelli: - Friday 24 February, 5.00 – 6.30 pm,
Finzione e Realtà
with Piero Gemelli - Saturday 25 February, 5 – 6.30 pm,
Faccia Da Schiaffi
with Toni Thorimbert - Sunday 26 February, 5 – 6.30 pm,
Instant Artist
with Maurizio Galimberti
From 22 to 27 February. Fashion Hub, UniCredit Pavilion, Piazza Gae Aulenti 10 http://www.mauriziogalimberti.it/
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At times the silent rhythm of my portraits forces the subjects of my portraits to wonder… Maurizio, where should I look? What should I do? I don’t reply, and keep on shooting without wasting a second... Five minutes later the shoot is over... in the perfect order... ready to be put together... without adding anything... without taking away or substituting anything... In the beautiful book An Inner Silence. The Portraits of Henry Cartier-Bresson, reading the presentation of the great Jean-Luc Nancy, I find the response to the silence and the physical immobility of my portraits... He writes: “The real portrait is the one in which the figure represented is not captured in any action nor adopts an expression which leads away from the person...” As Cartier-Bresson says, “Above all, I look for an inner silence... I try to translate the personality and not an expression...” I identify entirely with this... this is my response to silence... to immobility... to catching the subject off guard that my portraits entail... It’s the mental composition during the shoot that leads them into a futurist Duchampian dynamic... a composition which I find obsessive... Yet they (the subjects), are absolutely immobile and silent... Intimately I have always sought the words of Jean-Luc Nancy... intimately I have always followed the ‘biting mosquito’ sense of the project of Henry Cartier-Bresson.
(Maurizio Galimberti)
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F A S H I O N H U B M A R K E T
2 2 – 2 7 F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 7
The fourth edition of the Fashion Hub Market, held inside the UniCredit Pavilion in Piazza Gae Aulenti, is one of the most interesting scouting opportunities of Milano Moda Donna. The CNMI offers a selection of 14 up-and-coming Italian and foreign brands presenting their prêt-à-porter and accessories collections.
www.milanomodadonna.it/it/fashion-hub-market
Every day from 9 am to 7 pm
N o r a A l d a m e r
( K a l y a h )
Nora Aldamer, born and bred in Saudi Arabia but with a passion for fashion that led her to graduate from the Parsons School in New York. In 2013, she launched the first collection of her own brand. The roots are those of her homeland, of which she explores the costumes, transposing them onto an extremely contemporary concept of elegance.
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M i c h e l e C h i o c c i o l i n i
( C h i o c c i o l i n i F i r e n z e )
A Florentine architecture graduate, in 2012, together with his sister Francesca he founded his own brand and opened the Atelier Chiocciolini. Sharp geometric lines blend perfectly with softness and fluidity. Flexible gestures, emotions transformed into objects and dreams into material are the stylistic hallmarks that identify him.
F r a n c e s c o D ’A m i c o
( D a m i c o M i l a n o )
Launched by the fashion designer from Latina Francesco d’Amico, the brand debuted with its first collection in September 2015 during Milano Moda Donna. It’s a brand of women’s luxury footwear which brings together research, culture, technique and femininity in a single product.
L a l o D o l i d z e
( L a l o )
Lalo Dolidze is a Georgian designer who began her career creating handmade cardigans. Together with her twin Nina, in 2012 she launched Lalocardigans, drawing inspiration most of all from the world of nature, plants and flowers. In 2016 they launched a second line: Lalo, underpinned by a more sophisticated and luxurious concept. Each item is still made by hand and thus unique.
D a n i e l a F i o r i l l i
( G u e n )
Daniela Fiorilli also returns to the Fashion Chamber Hub. After Polimoda in Florence and the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, she worked for Escada and Patrizia Pepe. In 2012 she created Guen, and in this fourth edition, she presents an anthology of her most iconic items.
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C l a r a G i a q u i n t o
( C o r a )
Clara Giaquinto, after studying at the Milan Polytechnic and the IUAV, went on to work in Australia, Bali and NY. On returning to Milan, she collaborated with Aquilano.
Rimondi and in February 2016 founded her own brand, Cora. Her garments are extremely luscious and feminine, designed for the elegant and modern woman.
D a v i d e G r i l l o
Class of ‘93, he trained between Parma, Saint Martins and the IED. After an experience in Dolce&Gabbana
Alta Moda
, in 2016 he founded a brand using his own name. The fabrics of his collection feature illustrations and fine embroidery which enhance the light silhouettes for the ethereal, romantic and nostalgic woman. His is a joyful return to the Hub.
H i r o k i K a t a o k a
After having worked as a 3D designer, at the age of 25 he decided to turn his attention to artisanal shoes. His creations are based on the fusion of Japanese geek culture: cartoons, manga and street fashion. A genuine explosion of colour and creativity. He was selected by Swatch as the winner of Its Artwork 2015.
M a r c o L a g a n à
This is the second time at the Fashion Hub Market also for him. After gaining a degree in Fashion Design from Milan Polytechnic, in 2013 he moved to Paris and worked for the footwear brand Camille Tanoh. In 2015, on returning to Italy, he founded the shoe brand with his own name, was shortlisted for
Who’s On Next
and took part in the group show “
Il nuovo vocabolario della moda italiana
”.
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D i l y a r a M i n r a k h m a n ov a e M a x i m B a s h k a ev
( O u t l a w M o s c o w )
Founded and directed by Dilyara Minrakhmanova, who deals with the women’s collections, and Maxim Bashkaev, who deals with the men’s. Their aim is to fight the aggressiveness, isolation and hatred that still exist in many fields of modern Russia. They are inspired by the Russian artistic heritage, into which Asian and European cultures overflow and become more extreme.
M a r c o R a m b a l d i
Born in 1990 in Bologna, he graduated first in graphic design and product design, then in 2013 in Fashion Design at the IUAV. Structural composition, chromatic combinations and experimentation with materials are the elements that most characterise his work. His image is sharp, clean, and stands out by virtue of its strong linearity.
B a v Ta i l o r
Born in London, of Indian origins. She specialised in Fashion Design at the IED in Milan. In 2015 she founded her own sustainable luxury brand, following on from the sartorial tradition of her grandparents. She uses materials and techniques that condense the excellence of innovation and artisanal skill.
F r a n c e s c o V i s o n e
Born in Naples in ‘92. This made it possible for him to have access to the greatest crafts skills in the world, and he therefore decided to localise production entirely in his hometown. He debuted at
Super
and
White
, and then at Premium in Berlin and Premiere Classe. The Chamber of Fashion has chosen him to include him on this platform for the second time.
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M o m o W a n g
( M u s e u m o f F r i e n d s h i p )
A women’s brand founded in February 2014 in London by Momo Wang, a student at Saint Martins. Museum of Friendship designs and collects unforgettable memories, emotions and experiences shared exclusively among girls. A collection that speaks of intimacy and journeys through the female universe.
J i a q i Z h o n g e J e n n y N e l s o n
( To m m y Z h o n g )
Also the brand founded by Tommy Zhong and Jenny Nelson in 2015 returns to the limelight here. It stands out for its unique, handmade fabrics. The two designers work together to join Oriental heritage and aesthetics with Western creativity.
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F A S H I O N W E E K E V E N T S
New Wave Milano #NewWaveMilano 23 Febbraio 2017 h 22:30
i - D & T H E B L O N D E S A L A D : N E W WAV E M I L A N O
A new energy has taken hold of Milan. Thanks to a series of artists, musicians, designers, influencers and stylists who have decided to make the city their home. i-D & The Blonde Salad have chosen to celebrate this new wave with #NewWaveMilano, the new energy that is shaking the city, with an exclusive party of which CNMI is institutional partner.
23 February from 10.30 pm. By invitation only.
M A R I E C L A I R E , T I M E L E S S
Once again for Milano Moda Donna, Marie Claire confirms its collaboration with the Association of Via della Spiga, bringing the exhibition
Timeless
to the streets. More than 25 photos printed onto large supports will alternate with videos projected onto eight screens throughout the week. The sense of time will be told through some of its most iconic values: the beauty, style and elegance of a woman. With the patronage of CNMI.
From 22 to 28 February Via della Spiga www.marieclaire.it
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3 0 Y E A R S W I T H E L L E
In 2017, Elle Italia celebrates its 30th anniversary. This will be marked by a year of special contents, initiatives and events that will commence on the occasion of the Milano Fashion Week in February. The appointment with Elle during the Week will once again be in Brera, in via Fiori Chiari, with a street exhibition of 300 umbrellas suspended, depicting the most beautiful images of models and iconic looks shot by international photographers. The official hashtag is #30anniconelle. With the patronage of CNMI.
From 22 to 28 February. Via Fiori Chiari www.elle.it
J E W E L S O F T H E 2 0 C E N T U R Y
T H
On show at the Museo Poldi Pezzoli, 150 works of Italian jewellery of the 20th century. An organic collection of exemplars showing the value of Italian production, with the creativity and techniques adopted by the finest jewellers, goldsmiths and artists, starting with Buccellati, Alfredo Ravasco, Filippo Chiappe, Musy, Petochi, Codognato and Ascione. Then the ’40s, in the shadow of World War II, with the work of Cusi, Chantecler and Illario, not to mention the jewels designed by the artists Afro and Pomodoro. Then the ’60s and ’70s with the new Bulgari style; the ’80s and ’90s with jewels to be worn morning, noon and night by Pomellato, Giò Caroli and Rivière, and last but not least, the creations of the ‘Scuola di Padova’.
Until 20 March Museo Poldi Pezzoli, Via Manzoni 12 Tel. +39 02.794889 www.museopoldipezzoli.it
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C U LT U R A L E V E N T S
G I V E M E Y E S T E R D AY
The programming of the Osservatorio – the new Fondazione Prada space given over to photography – opens with the show
Give Me Yesterday
, curated by Francesco Zanot, with a selection of over 50 works by 14 Italian and international artists: Melanie Bonajo, Kenta Cobayashi, Tomé Duarte, Irene Fenara, Lebohang Kganye, Vendula Knopová, Leigh Ledare, Wen Ling, Ryan McGinley, Izumi Miyazaki, Joanna Piotrowska, Greg Reynolds, Antonio Rovaldi and Maurice van Es. The show explores the use of photography as an intimate, everyday and personal diary over a period of time ranging from the start of the millennium up to the present day.
Until 12 March Fondazione Prada L’Osservatorio. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Tel. +39 02.56662611 www.fondazioneprada.org/visit/milano-osservatorio/
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T H E A R T O F S H O E S
A retrospective curated by Cristina Carrillo de Albornoz illustrates the wonderful world of Manolo Blahnik, one of the leading names in contemporary fashion. His creative career is retraced in Palazzo Morando where, along with the various historical collections, 80 sketches and 212 shoes covering 45 years of the designer’s activity will be on show. The exhibition aims to recount the profound influence that Italian art and culture have had and continue to have on his creations. Milan will be the opening stage for this exhibition, by virtue of the strong link between Blahnik and Italy; it will then be housed at the Hermitage in St Petersburg.
Until 9 April. Palazzo Morando Via Sant’Andrea 6. Tel. +39 02.88465735 www.costumemodaimmagine.mi.it
MANOLO BLAHNÍK
THE ART OF SHOES
PALAZZO MORANDO | COSTUME MODA IMMAGINE via Sant'Andrea 6 - Milano - MM3 Montenapoleone . MM1 San Babila 26 GENNAIO - 9 APRILE 2017 www.civicheraccoltestoriche.mi.it
B O O M 6 0 !
At the Museo del Novecento, the protagonists are the most explosive years of the Italian economy with the exhibition
BOOM 60! Era arte moderna
. An exhibition dedicated to art in Italy around the turn of the 1960s, and its media presence in the most popular communication channels. Around 140 works of painting, sculpture and graphic art dialogue with the pages of magazines as well as movie and television footage, presenting their ways of recounting art, from the front covers to the inquiries, from the critical columns to the adverts, from photojournalism to satire.
Until 12 March 2017 Museo del Novecento, Via Marconi 1 Tel. +39 02.88444072
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S C I E N C E A N D A R T AT F O N D A Z I O N E P R A D A
Inside an artificial habitat, the American Michael Wang in
Extinct in the Wild
brings together various species of flora and fauna no longer existent in nature, bred only in captivity. In the spaces of the Galleria Nord, three glass and aluminium structures with artificial lights display a series of ‘extinct in nature’ elements, along with 20 photographs taken since 2014 by Wang himself, portraying various species of plants and animals in their original habitats prior to their extinction. Pamela Rosenkranz, with
Slight Agitation
, shows the action of a parasite active on a neurological level, which would appear to affect around 30% of the world population. A towering mountain of sand inside the Cisterna is imbibed with a fragrance obtained using feline pheromones recreated in a laboratory, capable of activating specific reactions of attraction and repulsion and of subconsciously influencing the movement of visitors. A green RGB light illuminates this enormous chemically altered mass, making the scent evaporate slowly. This site specific piece is designed to explore the ways through which physical and biological processes influence art.
Various dates. Fondazione Prada. Largo Isarco 2 Tel. +39 02.56662611 www.fondazioneprada.org
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R U B E N S A N D T H E B I R T H O F T H E B A R O Q U E
A key artist in the history of European art, Peter Paul Rubens is still not well known in Italy, despite his stay on the peninsula between 1600 and 1608. We owe to him the first signs of the birth of Baroque, and indeed the show at Palazzo Reale highlights Rubens’s relationship with ancient art and classical statues, as well as his interest in the great masters of the Renaissance, in order to raise awareness of the extraordinary influence he had on the young protagonists of the Baroque period, such as Pietro da Cortona, Bernini, Lanfranco and Luca Giordano.
Until 26 February. Palazzo Reale www.mostrarubens.it
2 0 0 P H OT O G R A P H S B Y PAO L O M O N T I
An exhibition with 200 original photographs, taken between 1935 and 1982, along with magazines, books, documents and unseen film footage, investigates the work of one of the most important Italian photographers of the 20th century: Paolo Monti. An industrial manager, his love for photography grew to the point of making him choose it as a career, alongside his intense activity as a critic and curator. Starting in 1953 in Milan, he rose to become a photographer of international standing, working for the Triennials, for leading architecture studios (BBPR, Gio Ponti, Albini and Scarpa), for artists, as well as putting together his own major experimental and artistic production.
Until 12 March 2017 Castello Sforzesco. Tel. +39 02.88463660 www.milanocastello.it
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I N T H E D AY S O F S E Q U I N S
Bringing together garments that have one thing in common: sequins. That is what Gian Luca Bovenzi, Ilaria De Palma and Barbara De Dominicis have done through a small and careful selection from among the more than 4,000 garments in the Palazzo Morando collections. With
Ricami di Luce
we may trace the evolution of sequins from 1770 to 2004, examining the fascinating journey of these little discs of light, first in metal then in gelatine, acetate, PVC, right up to the modern polyester. A homage to the work carried out in the 1970s by the costume historian Grazietta Butazzi, the starting point for the cataloguing currently underway.
Until 2 July 2017 Palazzo Morando, Via Sant’Andrea 6. Tel. +39 02.88446056 www.civicheraccoltestoriche.mi.it
K E I T H H A R I N G A B O U T A R T
An exhibition curated by Gianni Mercurio traces the entire life and works of one of the artists best loved by the fashion community, Keith Haring, bringing to light a vast selection of works from around the world, and highlighting the figure of the militant artist with his broad-ranging and articulated references to other artists and languages. In his canvases and his graffiti works, these links constitute a meeting point between different yet universal cultures.
From 21 February to 18 June 2017 Palazzo Reale. Tel. +39 02.88445181 www.palazzorealemilano.it
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MILANOMODADONNA.IT CAMERAMODA.IT
Live streaming fashion shows Shows and presentations photos Videos
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E AT I N G A N D D R I N K I N G I N M I L A N
DUOMO / CASTELLO
Giacomo all’Arengario La Brisa Langosteria Pasticceria Marchesi Riso e Latte T’a Trussardi alla Scala Yokohama
BRERA
Dry Pisacco Mandarin Oriental Pacifico 26 27 26 28 27 27 28 29
PORTA ROMANA
Bar Luce Potafiori
NAVIGLI / DARSENA
Elita Bar The Botanical Club Enrico Bartolini al Mudec 31 31 29 29
PORTA VOLTA / GARIBALDI
Ceresio 7 Radetzky
OTHERS
Michetta’s 35 30 35 32 34 34 34 35
SAN BABILA / MONFORTE
Armani/Bamboo Bar Da Giacomo 30 30
PORTA VENEZIA
Bar Basso Mantra Raw Vegan The Small Bistrot 33 32 33
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G I AC O M O A R E N G A R I O
On top of the Museo del Novecento, next to the Palazzo Reale and on Piazza Duomo. The restaurant with the most iconic view of Milan has Art Deco-inspired interiors, with red lacquering, inlaid walls and gold panelling. Great even just for a coffee or a drink in the lounge or on the breath-taking terrace, between a catwalk and a
vernissage
. The ideal place to dream, where the promise made is to let you “taste the atmospheres of a long-lost epoch.”
Via Guglielmo Marconi 1. Tel. +39 02.72093814 www.giacomoarengario.com
L A N G O S T E R I A
Here’s where you can find the sea in Milan. A high-quality menu offering absolute freshness, where crustaceans, carpaccios and tartares all spoil fish and pasta lovers for choice. But at Langosteria, every choice is divinely right. The service is so perfectly Milanese and such a thoroughly cosmopolitan atmosphere will stay with you for a long time. Up until that day when you come back. As well as its brother Bistrot, the family also now lays claim to a Langosteria café. A new format – light and contemporary – the DNA of which is very much that of the original. Morning, lunch, afternoon, aperitifs or dinner.
Langosteria Cafè Galleria del Corso 4 Tel. +39 02.76018167 Langosteria Savona via Savona 10 Tel. +39 02.58111649 Langosteria Bistrot via Privata Bobbio 2 Tel. +39 02.58107802 www.langosteria.com
2 6
R I S O E L AT T E
This little restaurant, a short way away from the Castello Sforzesco and the Duomo takes its name from the ancient humble rice and milk dish. All in 1950s Formica, washing hanging out, crockery that might have belonged to your grandmother, bowls of apples in the centre of the tables and coffee laced with a range of spirits. An escape from the contemporary world, from minimalism and formality.
Via Manfredo Camperio 6 Tel. +39 02.39831040 www.risoelatte.com
T ’A
Drawing on the age-old family tradition of fine pastry making, Tancredi and Alberto Alemagna have developed an innovative concept that brings together in a single space – refined and exquisitely Milanese – the chocolate shop, the aperitif bar and contemporary dining. A stone’s throw from Palazzo Clerici, a historic venue for many Fashion Week events.
Via Clerici 1. Tel. +39 02.87386130 www.tamilano.com
L A B R I S A
Run by Antonio and Francisca Facciolo with Piero Maranghi, La Brisa excels in its simple yet tasty faire, with a seasonal menu which changes every month, following the colours of the leaves of the trees in the garden and thus offering ever new flavours to be discovered. Typical Lombard recipes, fish and meat dishes, vegetarian food, not to mention a memorable roast suckling pig.
Via Brisa 15. Tel. +39 02.86450521 www.ristorantelabrisa.it
2 7
T R U S S A R D I A L L A S C A L A
The Trussardi family hit upon the coupling of fashion and haute cuisine long before it became standard fare. Next to the Teatro alla Scala, the Palazzo hosts the starred restaurant in a room which is bright during the day and yet cosy in the evening. Meanwhile, on the ground floor the Café offers quick yet carefully concocted dishes. The Lounge, designed as an American bar, provides an excellent selection of cocktails and cigars.
Piazza della Scala 5 Tel. +39 02.80688295 www.trussardiallascala.com
PA S T I C C E R I A M A R C H E S I
In 2024, we shall celebrate the 200th anniversary of the pastry shop that symbolises Milanese excellence, recently acquired by the Prada Group. The chocolate and pralines are top class, but after all it’s all so absolutely perfect that it’s well worth falling in love remorselessly. In the new spaces in via Monte Napoleone and in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, an even broader selection has been added of his well-known products, cased in delightful packaging.
Via Santa Maria alla Porta 11/A Tel. +39 02.862770 Via Monte Napoleone 9 Tel. +39 02.76008238 Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II Tel. +39 02.94181710 www.pasticceriamarchesi.it
2 8
Y O KO H A M A
Rosy Chin and her husband Paolo are the living testimony to a cuisine altering to reflect changes in the anthropological fabric. They are a perfect fusion just like the dishes they propose. The traditional Japanese dishes are excellent, but the best thing is to take their advice: the roll compositions are heavenly, as are the seared tuna and salmon coupled with a range of Mediterranean-Japanese sauces.
Via Maurizio Gonzaga 4 Tel. +39 02.874291 www.sushiyokohama.it
PAC I F I C O
Self-proclaimedly “a little embassy of Peruvian culture and flavours with Asiatic influences,” Pacifico is a new joint split into various different areas: the dining hall, the Pisco Bar and an open-air space; on request, you may also book exclusive use of the Submarine Room. The cocktails to accompany the various kinds of ceviche must be tried, along with the highly original dim sum.
Via San Marco angolo Via Moscova Tel. +39 02.87244737 www.wearepacifico.it
P I S AC C O
A contemporary bistro, which by underlining the sense of ‘Welcome!’ in its hospitality, in only a few years has made a name for itself as a leader on the Milanese panorama. Pisacco’s cooking is a choice based on fundamentals: fresh and essential dishes revolving around the excellence of the ingredients. The name overseeing the range of proposals, which also includes a series of small, quick and light dishes, is the starred chef Andrea Berton.
Via Solferino 48 Tel. +39 02.91765472 www.pisacco.it
2 9
R A D E T Z K Y
Milano is still happy hour land as ever. Radetzky, open since the 1980s, offers a bevy of good-looking lads and lasses who frequent the now historical bar a stone’s throw from the Moscova metro stop from the aperitif onwards, but it also draws the crowds for its fine food and the shop offering a selection of Italian caviar and foie gras.
Corso Garibaldi 105. Tel. +39 02.6572645 www.radetzky.it
A R M A N I / B A M B O O B A R
Feel on top of the world surrounded by minimalist design, with a view across the Milanese skyline and sunset over the Lombard Alps. For lunch, dinner or later, for a signature cocktail or delicious club sandwich even late into the evening. The Armani/Bamboo bar is on the seventh floor of the Armani Hotel: the perfect position if you are on the lookout for a breather between fashion shows and shopping.
Via Manzoni 31. Tel. +39 02.88838888 www.armanihotels.com
D A G I AC O M O
Two options. Two different but parallel stories. One is a restaurant and one is a bistro. An international environment and celebrity guests. An atmosphere from another era, and truly fantastic dishes, such as the spaghetti with sea urchins or truffles, porcini or just about anything else that makes people fall in love with Italy.
Via Pasquale Sottocorno 6 Da Giacomo Tel. +39 02.76023313 www.giacomoristorante.com Da Giacomo Bistrot Tel. +39 02.76022653 www.giacomobistrot.com
3 0
D R Y
Dry is a leader in the preparation of pizzas and cocktails. The sublime mixology ranges from the “
Vintage & Forgotten Cocktails
” such as the Corpse Reviver #2 made famous by the London Savoy, and the Martinez, known as the predecessor of Martini, to other evolved classics. The pizza is classically Neapolitan, small, and with just the right balance between crunchy and soft. Beautiful interiors, with a wonderful programme of video art which brings the walls to life .
Via Solferino 33. Tel. +39 02.63793414 www.drymilano.it
M A N D A R I N O R I E N TA L
Global 21st-century luxury finds its home at the Mandarin Oriental Milano. Satisfy your need for a little spa time, Oriental grace and a glamourous aperitif. For a private reception or a sophisticated dinner, with the choice between two eateries: Seta, a gourmet restaurant boasting a Michelin star, and the Mandarin Bar & Bistrot, a more informal location, which in next to no time has become the meeting place of choice for the Fashion Week crowd.
Via Andegari 9. Tel. +39 02.87318888 www.mandarinoriental.com
3 1
M A N T R A R AW V E G A N
The raw diet is not just a passing fad, but a both holistic and scientific approach which is fostering a new level of awareness on a global level. Here in Milan, the temple of this creed is Mantra Raw Vegan, which offers 100% organic food and an approach which may be summed up in their payoff: “The restaurant that doesn’t cook anything!” It goes without saying that the aesthetics of the space are somewhat essential.
Via Panfilo Castaldi 21. Tel. +39 02.89058575 http://www.mantrarawvegan.com
B A R L U C E
Wes Anderson created a real movie set for the café of the Fondazione Prada. Drawing on the Italian popular tradition of the ‘50s and ‘60s, the director wanted to recreate the style of ‘Miracle in Milan’, in which Neo-Realism and Pop culture go hand in hand. The sweets are produced by the Pasticceria Marchesi.
Largo Isarco 2 Tel. +39 02.56662611 www.fondazioneprada.org/barluce
3 2
T H E S M A L L B I S T R OT
Essentially Italian cooking with variations on the theme of Mediterranean land and seafood, with a menu which strictly adheres to what the season has to offer. The cakes are to die for, and the setting is a real gem. Hosting art installations, the owner and bag designer Giancarlo Patriglia has made his dream come true here, creating a space in which art and fashion may come together in every possible expression.
Via Niccolò Paganini 3 Tel. +39 02.20240943 www.thesmall.it
B A R B A S S O
Here we are in the all-time hall of fame. The bar which best describes the very essence of Milan of today and yesteryear. Among the 500 possible cocktails, you haven’t done Milan if you haven’t tried Mirko Stocchetti’s historic Rossini, or the Negroni Sbagliato®. Forever and ever Milano.
Via Plinio 39 Tel. +39 02.29400580 www.barbasso.com
3 3
E N R I C O B A R T O L I N I A L M U D E C
One of the most soberly welcoming spaces in town, inside the Museo delle Culture, which has enhanced Milan only since last year. The choice made by the chef in the gourmet restaurant and in the neighbouring bistro is an ambitious one: Enrico Bartolini (two Michelin stars) and his team have developed a
light lunch formula
with a tasting itinerary which always unfolds around the choice of one key seasonal element.
Via Tortona 56 Ristorante Tel. +39 02.84293701 Bistrot Tel. +39 02.84293706 www.enricobartolini.net
P OTA F I O R I
At breakfast you can enjoy the preparation of fresh flowers just in, while in the evening, in front of a glass of wine and a dish created by the cook Giorgio Bresciani, if she’s in the mood, you might happen to hear Rosalba sing. For in her third flower and plant shop, the now renowned singing florist decided to include a kitchen.
Via Salasco 17 Tel. +39 02.87065930 www.potafiori.com
E L I TA B A R
These are the guys that get the city dancing with the Elita Festival. The cocktails are really something, and the kitchen prepares quick, simple and very tasty dishes. A youthful, pro-positive and creative environment. Unmissable if you want to get off the beaten track and have a wander around the Navigli.
Via Corsico 5. Tel. +39 02.36798710
3 4
T H E B OTA N I C A L C L U B
After the success of the speakeasy in Via Pastrengo, the guys from the Botanical opened a nice big, chic and metropolitan establishment in Via Tortona. The first micro gin distillery in Milan contributes to making this a very special place, popular among young hipsters, managers and design freaks. Lunch and dinner always have a surprise in store. A good place in which to get to know the new faces of creative Milan.
Via Tortona 33. Tel. +39 02.4232890 www.thebotanicalclub.com
C E R E S I O 7
An outright oasis of cosmopolitan elegance. With a swimming pool on the terrace of the ex-Enel building and view over the new Milan. This might sound enough to want to go there, but the interiors are designed with modernist grace and the aperitif is a genuine treat. The lunch foresees a range of light, fresh dishes. If it’s dinner, you will need to try and book in advance.
Via Ceresio 7. Tel. +39 02.31039221 www.ceresio7.com
M I C H E T TA’ S
“It isn’t Michetta if it doesn’t crumble…” The most historical
panino
in Milan at the height of its splendour in a welcoming venue, opened just one month ago, where the cocktails are also very tempting. The sweet
michettas
for breakfast are there for the tasting.
Via Ambrogio Campiglio 13 Tel. +39 02.45478564
3 5
W E L L N E S S
M A N D A R I N O R I E N TA L S PA
With its 900 square metres, situated in midst of the fashion district, entirely given over to the wellbeing of body and mind, with an approach of a holistic nature, in a scenario that encourages meditation and tranquillity. A complete menu of relaxing and anti ageing treatments is available as well as spa therapies, customised by specialists in traditional Chinese medicine and aromatherapists.
Via Andegari 9. Tel. +39 02.87318888 www.mandarinoriental.com/milan/luxury-spa
3 6
A M O R E E P S I C H E
Inside Chateau Monfort, the luxurious fairy-tale castle/hotel a stone’s throw from San Babila, the new ‘Amore e Psiche’ spa centre may be found. A pool with salt water, a sauna, Turkish bath, caldarium, aromatic sensory showers, an ice fountain and relax area may also be booked exclusively. An absolute must is the imperial ritual with black soap, a
savonage
originating from the Moroccan
hammams
designed to purify body and soul.
Corso Concordia 1 Tel. +39 02.776761 www.hotelchateaumonfort.com/ spa-amore-psiche
S H I S E I D O S PA
The exclusive Shiseido Qi technique, created in 1986, focuses on the flow of the meridians and on the stimulation of the tsubo pressure points to restore vital energy and induce a profound state of relaxation. Combined with Shiseido face and body products and with the typical hot Japanese towels known as ‘
oshibori
’, the experience at the Shiseido Spa at the Hotel Excelsior Gallia easily becomes a mystical one to say the least.
Piazza Duca D’Aosta 9 Tel. +39 02.67853320 www.shiseidospamilan.com/it
3 7
T H E B U L G A R I S PA
An oasis in the heart of the city, where ancient philosophies come face to face with the beauty of a modern architecture. The daylight filtered through the glass walls illuminates the mint-gold tiles of the pool. The sauna and outdoor Jacuzzi allow guests to enjoy customised treatments in a unique space. As well as four private rooms, there is also an exclusive suite for couples.
Via Privata Fratelli Gabba 7b Tel. +39 02.805805200 www.bulgarihotels.com/en_US/milan/ spa-and-fitness/the-bulgari-spa
B O S C O L O B E N E S S E R E E S PA
A temple of wellness just behind the Duomo, the spa of the Boscolo Hotel was created by the architect Simone Micheli. Designed to foster a sense of harmony between guests and their surroundings, a 15-metre screen with images and sounds encourages relaxation; the spheres embedded in the walls reflect the light blue of the swimming pool, favouring the correct optical aperture. Ergonomics and aesthetics come together here, drawing in all the senses.
Corso Matteotti 4/6 Tel. +39 02.77679650 www.milano.boscolohotels.com/it/ benessere-spa-milano
3 8
With one of the most spectacular views over the city, the spa inside the Hotel Armani offers guests a choice of three philosophies of treatment, carefully designed on the basis of natural products.
Mu
, to satisfy the desire for rest and relaxation;
Libertà
, to promote movement and the release of physical tension, and
Fluidità
, to improve vitality, re-balancing inner harmony.
Via Manzoni 31 Tel. +39 02.88838860 www.milan.armanihotels.com/spa-it
3 9
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